Sjnr’.i':  - «;•,  '•:•;• 


RESEARCH  LIBRARY 
THE  GETTY  RESEARCH  INSTITUTE 


JOHN  MOORE  ANDREAS  COLOR  CHEMISTRY  LIBRARY  FOUNDATION 


© Raymond  Pettibon 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/dyersinstructorc00smit_0 


% 


TIIE 


DYER’S  INSTRUCTOR; 


ART  OF  DYEING  SILK,  COTTON,  WOOL, 

AND  WORSTED  AND  WOOLLEN  GOODS, 


SINGLE  AND  TWO-COLORED  DAMASKS,  MOREENS,  CAMLETS, 
EASTINGS,  SHOT  COBOURGS,  SILK  STRIPED  ORLEANS, 
PLAIN  ORLEANS  EROM  WHITE  AND  COLORED 
WARPS,  MERINOS,  WOOLLENS,  YARNS,  ETC. 


CONTAINING  NEARLY  800  RECEIPTS; 


A TREATISE  ON  THE  ART  OF  PADDING; 


AND  THE  PRINTING  OF 

SILK  WARPS,  SKEINS,  AND  HANDKERCHIEFS,  AND  THK 
VARIOUS  MORDANTS  AND  COLORS  FOR  THE 
DIFFERENT  STYLES  OF  SUCH  WORK. 


BY  DAYID  SMITH,  PATTERN  DYER. 


COMPRISING  PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTIONS  IN  THE 


AS 


TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED 


FOURTH  EDITION. 


PHILADELPHIA: 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIR^ 

INDUSTRIAL  PUBLISHER, 

406  Walnut  Street. 


1871. 


the  uETTY  research 
INSTITUTE  LIBRARY 


INTRODUCTION. 


In  presenting  to  the  Public  my  second  work  on 
Dyeing,  I have  endeavored  to  give  concise  and  clear 
directions  for  Dyeing  Wool  in  its  raw  state,  Cotton 
in  the  Hank  and  Warp,  and  Silk  in  the  Skein,  in 
all  the  various  colors;  and  also  for  dyeing  the  dif- 
ferent fabrics  of  Piece  Goods,  as  Damasks,  single  and 
two  colors,  Moreens,  Camlets,  Tastings,  Shot  Co- 
bourgs,  Silk  Striped  Orleans,  Plain  Orleans  from 
White  and  Colored  Warps,  Merinos,  Woollens, 
Yarns,  &c.  Also,  I have  appended  a concise  Treatise 
on  the  art  of  Padding;  and  directions  for  the  Printing 
of  Silk  Warps,  Skeins,  and  Handkerchiefs,  and  the 
various  Mordants  and  Colors  for  the  different  styles 
of  such  Work.  In  this  department  I have  been 
aided  by  one  of  the  most  practical  men  in  the  Silk 
Printing  business. 

Since  the  publication  of  the  11  Practical  Dyer’s 
Guide,”  I have  received  numerous  applications  for 
Receipts,  for  Dyeing  Silk,  Cotton  and  Wool.  As  the 
“ Dyer’s  Guide”  is  particularly  applicable  to  Stuff, 

iii 


IV 


INTRODUCTION. 


Yarn,  and  Woollen  Cloth  Dyers,  I have  collected  the 
Receipts  on  Cotton,  Silk,  and  Wool  Dyeing,  from 
my  own  resources  (not  from  obsolete  Books  on 
Dyeing),  and  from  practical  men  in  the  trade,  who 
have  been  prompt  to  aid  me  in  this  attempt  to  impart 
practical  and  scientific  knowledge  to  my  brethren  in 
the  trade.  The  following  work  principally  comprises 
Receipts  for  Dyeing  a given  quantity  of  goods,  as 
Wool,  Cotton  and  Silk,  together  with  other  miscel- 
laneous important  information. 

To  communicate  instruction  by  clear  and  concise 
Receipts,  must  be  regarded  as  best  calculated  to 
qualify  a person  for  successful  operations  in  practical 
dyeing ; it  will  save  much  time,  and  also  expense  ; 
and,  for  a learner,  must  be  far  superior  to  reading 
and  studying  the  complicated  and  circuitous  methods, 
as  detailed  in  some  Treatises  on  the  Art  of  Dyeing, 
which  demands  the  greatest  simplicity  in  its  expla- 
nations and  directions,  so  that  a person  from  reading 
them  may  not  be  bewildered  as  in  a labyrinth  of 
complexity,  but  proceed  at  once  to  dye.  I have  en- 
deavored to  avoid  such  a method  of  instruction,  and 
I presume  that  the  following  Receipts  will  meet  the 
wishes  of  those  who  are  seeking  after  such  knowl- 
edge. Having  myself  had  much  experience  in  dye- 
ing nearly  all  sorts  of  Goods,  I have  given  every 
class  of  colors  and  the  different  shades  of  the  same 
color,  in  as  great  a variety  as  I could  find  calculated 
to  be  useful. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Y 


As  some  parties  wished  to  purchase  the  “ Dyer’s 
Guide,”  without  the  Patterns , it  is  necessary  to  say 
that  only  a limited  number  was  published,  and  the 
Edition  is  fast  running  out,  and  that  the  few  copies 
remaining  must  be  sold  with  Patterns.  But  I have 
endeavored  to  meet  their  wishes  by  the  publication 
of  the  following  W ork,  and,  as  the  price  is  so  low, 
considering  the  important  information  given,  it  is 
presumed  that  it  will  be  serviceable  to  the  trade, 
not  excepting  those  who  have  purchased  the  “Guide,” 
on  account  of  those  Receipts  which  refer  to  Silk, 
Cotton,  and  Wool  Dyeing. 


D.  S. 


WOOL  DYEING. 


1 Fancy  Bloom 

2 Drab 

3 Heavy  Drab 

4 Slate  Color 

5 Light  Green 

6 Darker  Shade  of  Green 

7 Light  Blue 

8 Logwood  Blue 

9 Sage  Drab 

10  Black 

11  Fast  Blue  Black 

12  California  Color 

13  Darker  Shade  of  California 

Color 

14  Fawn  Drab 

15  Dark  Fawn  Drab 

16  Madder  Drab 

17  Fuller  Shade  of  Madder  Drab 

18  Dark  Shade  of  Madder  Drab 

19  Blue  Slate  Color 

20  Crane  Blue 

21  Fancy  Bloom 

22  Silver  Drab 

23  Redder  Shade  of  Silver  Drab 

24  Very  Light  Shade  of  Drab 

25  Light  Drab,  Yellower  Shade 

than  No.  24 

26  Vicuna  Drab 

27  Redder  Shade  of  Vicuna 

28  Fine  Red  Lavender 

29  Light  Olive 

30  Greener  Olive 


Redder  Shade  of  Olive 
Dark  Olive 
Darker  Green  Olive 
Dark  Green  Olive,  Chromed 
True  Olive 

Vant  Color,  near  Canary  Color 

Light  Brown 

Middle  Brown 

Darker  Brown 

True  Brown 

Light  Green 

Moss  Green 

Good  Bottle  Green,  Chromed 
Invisible  Green,  Chromed 
Bottle  Green,  True  Color 
Violet  or  Mulberry 
Fine  Claret 
Darker  Claret 
Russian  Brown 
Dark  Brown 

A.  Lac  Scarlet 

B.  Full  Pink 
Wine  Color 
Royal  Blue 
Grain  Crimson 
Grain  Scarlet 
Full  Yellow 
Orange 
Canary  Color 
Sky  Blue 
Saxon  Blue 

vii 


31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

50 

51 

51 

52 

53 

54 

55 

56 

57 

58 

59 

60 


Vlll 


CONTENTS, 


COTTON 

1 Buff 

2 Butf 

3 Buff,  or  Nankin 

4 Straw  Color 

5 Flesh  Color 

6 Safflower  Pink 

7 Light  Pink 

8 Scarlet 

9 Light  Cinnamon  Brown 

10  Darker  Shade  of  Light  Brown 

11  Dark  Shades  of  Brown 

12  Chrome  Yellow 

13  Darker  Shade  of  Chromed  Yel- 

low 

14  Full  Chrome  Orange 

15  Fast  Drab 

16  Fast  Blue 

17  Lavender 

18  Lilac 

19  Silver  Drab 

20  Good  Light  Drab 

21-  Fuller  Shade  of  No.  20 

22  Light  Olive 

23  Darker  Olive 

24  Dark  Olive 

25  Full  Yellow  Drab 

26  Light  Buff 

27  Light  Blue 

28  Light  Extract  Green 

29  Middle  Shade  of  Green 

30  Dark  Shade  of  Green 

31  Chromed  and  Fast  Greens 

32  Light  Catechu  Brown 

33  Darker  Catechu 

34  Dark  Catechu  Brown 

35  Full  Dark  Catechu  Brown 


DYEING. 

36  Full  Yellow  Scarlet 

37  Barwood  Bed 

38  Imitation  of  Turkey  Red 

39  Various  Shades  of  Silver  Drab 

40  Various  Shades  of  Fawn  Drab 

41  Good  Black 

42  Good  Black,  to  Stand  Milling 

and  Scouring 

43  Fast  Black 

44  Fast  Purple 

45  Fast  Lavender 

46  Sky  Blue 

47  Bark  Yellow 

48  Other  Yellows 

49  Peachwood  Red 

50  Crimsons  and  Pinks 

51  Clarets 

52  Ruby 

53  Plum  Color 

54  Maroon 

55  Blue  Purple 

56  Full  Purple 

57  Saxon  Blue 

58  Flat  Royal  Blue 

59  Bright  Royal  Blue 

60  Victoria  Blue 

61  Napoleon  Blue 

62  On  Bleaching  Cotton 

63  How  to  spend  Catechu 

64  How  to  make  the  Spirits  for 

Cotton  Dyeing  purposes 

65  On  Steeping 

66  How  to  Spend  Annotta 

67  How  to  spend  Turmeric  for 

Cotton  Dyeing 

68  How  to  spend  Safflower 


1 Lavender 

2 Lavender,  No.  2 

3 Lavender,  No.  3 

4 Spirit  Yellow 

5 Weld  Yellow 

6 Bark  Yellow 

7 Turmeric  Yellow 

8 Orange  Color 


SILK  DYEING. 

9  Grain  Crimson 

10  Grain  Scarlet 

11  Sky  Blues  from  Extract 

12  Sky  Blues  from  Prussiate 

13  A.  Mazarine  Blue 

13  B.  French  Blue 

14  Royal  Blue 

15  Blue  Black 


CONTENTS, 


IX 


16  Common  Full  Flack 

17  Browns  of  different  Shades 

18  Dark  Browns  of  different 

Shades 

19  California  Browns  and  Olive 

20  B,ed  Browns,  or  Claret  Browns 

21  Another  mode  of  Dyeing  Red 

Browns 

22  Acid  Brown 

23  Light  Claret  Brown 

24  Dark  Claret  Brown 

25  Clarets  and  Chocolates 

26  Another  mode  of  Dyeing  Clarets 

and  Chocolates 

27  Mock  Crimsons,  dyed  different 

ways 

28  Olive 

29  Purples 

30  Maroons 

31  Maroons,  another  way 

32  Ruby 

33  Daunce  Black 

34  Violet 

35  Light  Green 

36  Middle  Green 


37  Dark  Green 

38  Bottle  Green 

39  Other  Greens  of  different  Shades 

40  Fast  Green  with  a Blue  bottom 

41  Light  Olives,  of  different  Shades 

42  Flesh  Color,  or  Buff 

43  Salmon 

44  Gold  Color 

45  Yellow  Fawn  Drab 

46  Fawn  Drab 

47  Flat  Drab 

48  Heavy  Drabs 

49  Slate  Drab 

50  Bronze  Drab 

51  Another  mode  of  Dyeing  Drabs 

52  Sour  Browns 

53  French  White 

54  Pinks  from  Safflower 

55  Pinks  from  Peachwood 

56  Grain  Pinks 

57  Mock  Scarlet 

58  Real  Paris  Blacks 

59  Napoleon  Blue,  and  how  to 

make  the  Spirits  for  the  same 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 
9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 
21 
22 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


Pea  Green,  very  fine  Shade 

Silver  Drab 

California  Color 

Bright  Vicuna 

Light  Fiery  Brown 

Middle  Olive 

Red  Lavender 

Red  Drab 

Ruby 

Wine  Color 
Fine  Claret 
Yellow  Brown 
Middle  Green 
Good  Brown 
Dark  Purple 
Sea  Green 
Dark  Brown 
Dark  Drab 
Maroon 
Scarlet 

Cinnamon  Brown 
Grain  Crimson 


23  Full  Pink 

24  Salmon  Color 

25  Full  Grain  Rose 

26  Light  Buff 

27  Light  Yellow 

28  Orange 

29  Bottle  Green 

30  Invisible  Green 

31  Dark  Blue 

32  Blue  Black 

33  Full  Black 

34  Royal  Blue 

35  Apple  Green 

36  Light  Olive 

37  Dark  Olive 

38  Brown  Olive 

39  Fawn  Drab 

40  Dove  Color 

41  Blue  Lavender 

42  Sky  Blue 

43  Saxon  Blue 

44  Sage  Drab 


CONTENTS. 


45  Chromed  Green 

46  Dark  Chromed  Green 

47  Light  and  Dark  Claret 

48  Mock  Crimson 

49  Grain  Maroon 

50  Dark  Chocolate 

51  Heavy  Brown 

52  Dark  Claret  Brown 


53  Darker  Claret  Brown 

54  Full  Red  Brown 

55  Full  Yellow  Brown 

56  Darker  Yellow  Brown 

57  Dark  Olive 

58  Darker  Shade  of  Olive 

59  Very  Dark  Claret 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


1 Slate  Purple 

27  Full  Yellow 

2 Red  Purple 

28  Orange 

3 Full  Red  Purple 

29  Grain  Crimson 

4 Royal  Blue 

30  Rose 

5 Grain  Maroon 

31  Pink 

6 Mock  Crimson 

32  Imitation  of  Indigo  Blue 

7 Claret 

33  Light  Brown 

8 Light  Vicuna 

34  Claret  Brown 

9 Dark  Vicuna 

35  Snuff  Color 

10  Oak  Drab 

36  Full  Black 

11  Bottle  Green 

37  Blue  Black 

12  Apple  Green 

38  Fawn  Drab 

13  Knot  Green 

39  Lilac 

14  Sea  Green 

40  Lavender 

15  Dark  Sea  Green 

41  Light  Puce 

16  Mock  Maroon 

42  Slate  Drab 

17  Green  Olive 

43  Sage  Drab 

18  Dark  Drab 

44  Red  Cinnamon  Brown 

19  Dahlia 

45  Dark  Brown 

20  Ruby 

46  Dark  Red  Brown 

21  Apple  Green 

47  Grain  Scarlet 

22  Invisible  Green 

48  Salmon 

23  Bottle  Green 

49  Sky  Blue 

24  Brown  Olive 

50  Saxon  Blue 

25  Green  Olive 

51  Dove  Color 

26  Canary  Color 

WOOLLEN 

DYEING. 

1 Grain  Scarlet 

8 Orange 

2 Scarlet 

9 Salmon 

3 Scarlet 

10  Salmon 

4 Scarlet 

11  Grain  Rose 

5 Lac  Scarlet 

12  Gold  Color 

6 Scarlet 

13  Grain  Rose 

7 Scarlet 

14  Full  Red  Crimson 

CONTENTS, 


XI 


15  Light  Rose 

35  Green 

16  Rose  Color 

36  Chestnut  Brown 

17  Yellow 

37  Dark  Green 

18  Full  Yellow,  or 

38  Claret  Brown 

19  Sky  Blue 

39  Chromed  Green 

20  Dove  Color 

40  Claret 

21  Crimson 

41  Brown  Olive 

22  Green 

42  Mule  Drab 

23  Royal  Blue 

43  Stone  Drab 

24  Dark  Royal  Blue 

44  Fawn  Drab 

25  Royal  Blue 

45  Nut  Brown 

26  Royal  Blue 

46  Good  Light  Claret 

27  Royal  Blue 

47  Good  Crimson 

.28  Royal  Blue,  Gold  Lists 

48  Good  Logwood  Blue 

29  Green 

49  Logwood  Blue 

30  Purple 

50  Yarn  and  Woollen  Piece  Dyeing 

31  Dark  Brown 

51  New  Mode  of  Dyeing  Logwood 

32  Dark  Claret  Brown 

Blues 

33  Black 

52  Maroon 

34  Peachwood  Red 

DAMASK 

1 Pink  and  White 

2 Pink 

3 Salmon  and  White 

4 Salmon 

5 Rose  Color 

6 Rose  Color 

7 White  and  Ponque  Color 

8 Ponque 

9 Grain  Crimson 

10  Grain  Crimson 

11  Buff  and  White 

12  Buff 

13  Straw  Color  and  White 

14  Straw  Color 

15  Yellow  and  White 

16  Yellow 

17  Lac  Scarlet  and  White 

18  Lac  Scarlet 

19  Grain  Scarlet  and  White 

20  Grain  Scarlet 


MOREEN 

1 Light  Sky  Blue 

2 Dark  Sky  Blue 

3 Full  Orange 


DYEING. 

21  Light  Orange  and  White 

22  Orange 

23  Sky  Blue  and  White 

24  Sky  Blue 

25  Saxon  Blue  and  White 

26  Saxon  Blue 

27  Light  Green  and  White 

28  Light  Green 

29  Middle  Green  and  White 

30  Middle  Green 

31  Cinnamon  Brown  and  White 

32  Cinnamon  Brown 

33  Light  Fawn 

34  Darker  Fawn 

35  Light  Silver  Drab 

36  Darker  Silver  Drab 

37  Mock  Crimson 

38  Sea  Green 

39  Coffee  Brown 

40  Black 


DYEING. 

4 Light  Orange 

5 Full  Grain  Scarlet 

6 Grain  Scarlet 


Xll 


CONTENTS, 


7 Light  Lac  Scarlet 

8 Full  Lac  Scarlet 

9 Light  Yellow 

10  Full  Yellow 

11  Straw  Color 

12  Buff 

13  Light  Grain  Crimson 

14  Bark  Grain  Crimson 

15  Coffee  Brown 

16  Sea  Green 

17  Mock  Crimson 

18  Black 

19  Light  Silver  Brab 

20  Full  Silver  Brab 

21  Light  Fawn 

22  Barker  Fawn 


23  Cinnamon  Brown 

24  Barker  Cinnamon  Brown 

25  Middle  Green 

26  Bark  Green 

27  Light  Green 

28  Barker  Green 

29  Light  Saxon  Blue 

30  Bark  Saxon  Blue 

31  Light  Red  Crimson 

32  Full  Red  Crimson 

33  Light  Rose  Color 

34  Full  Rose  Color 

35  Light  Salmon 

36  Full  Salmon 

37  Light  Pink 

38  Full  Pink 


TWO-COLOREB  BAMASK  BYEING. 


1 Scarlet  and  Pink 

2 Scarlet  and  Yellow 

3 Scarlet  and  Flesh  Color 

4 Scarlet  and  Salmon 

5 Scarlet  and  Rose  Color 

6 Light  Green  and  Pink 

7 Middle  Green  and  Pink 

8 Green  and  Yellow 

9 Green  and  Salmon 

10  Saxon  Blue  and  Rose  Color 

1 1 Sky  Blue  and  Pink 


12  Sky  Blue  and  Pink,  another 

way 

13  Blues  and  Crimsons  of  different 

sorts 

14  Green  and  Crimson 

15  Bark  Blue  and  Orange 

16  Bark  Blue  and  Light  Orange 

17  Ruby  and  Blue 

1 8 Yellow  and  Blue 

19  Orange  and  Blue 

20  Scarlet  and  common  Blue 

21  Coffee  and  Royal  Blue 


CAMLET 

1 Scarlet 

2 Light  Orange 

3 Full  Orange 

4 Light  Yellow 

5 Full  Yellow 

6 Grain  Crimson 

7 Ash  Brab 

8 Silver  Brab 

9 Fawn  Brab 

1 0 Saxon  Blue 

11  Maroon 

12  Light  Brown 


BYEING. 

13  Bark  Brown 

14  Claret  Brown 

15  Light  Purple 

16  Middle  Purple 

17  Bark  Purple 

18  Another  Mode  of  dyeing  Pur- 

ples 

19  Blue  Black 

20  Full  Black 

21  Royal  Blue 

22  Green 

23  Bottle  Green 


CONTENTS. 


Xlll 


LASTING 

1 Light  Yellow 

2 Full  Yellow 

3 Silver  Drab 

4 Ash  Drab 

5 Fawn  Drab 

6 Saxon  Blue 

7 Grain  Crimson 

8 Scarlet 

9 Light  Orange 

10  Full  Orange 

11  Maroon 

12  Light  Brown 


DYEING. 

13  Green 

14  Bottle  Green 

15  Blue  Black 

16  Full  Black 

17  Claret  Brown 

18  Dark  Brown 

19  Light  Purple 

20  Middle  Purple 

21  Dark  Purple 

22  Royal  Blue 

23  Another  Mode  of  Dyeing  Pur- 

ples 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


1 Blue  and  Pink 

2 Yellow  and  Blue 

3 Orange  and  Blue 

4 Crimson  and  Blue 
6 Ruby  and  Blue 

6 Lavender  and  Pink 

7 Green  and  Pink 

8 Lavender  and  Crimson 

9 Dark  Sky  and  Crimson 


10  Light  Green  and  Salmon 

11  Green  and  Pink 

12  Green  and  Claret 

13  Green  and  Purple 

14  Black  and  Crimson 

15  Light  Olive  and  Crimson 

16  Orange  and  Purple 

17  Royal  Blue  and 

18  Green  and  Orange  Full  Pink 


SILK  STRIPED  ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK,  WHITE,  AND 
COLORED  WARPS. 


1 Light  Olive  from  Black  Warp 

2 Dark  Olive  from  Black  Warp 

3 Brown  Olive  from  Black  Warp 

4 Red  Brown  From  Purple  Warp 

5 Dark  Claret  from  Black  Warp 

6 Chromed  Brown  from  Purple 

Warp 

7 Claret  Brown  from  Claret  Warp 

8 Dark  Claret  Brown  from  Claret 

Warp 

9 Chromed  Claret  from  Purple 

Warp 

10  Dark  Claret  from  Purple  Warp 

11  Ruby  from  Violet  Warp 

2 


12  Light  Claret  from  Purple  Warp 

13  Darker  Claret  from  Claret  Warp 

14  Adelaide  from  Black  Warp 

15  Dark  Mulberry  from  Black 

Warp 

16  Adelaide  from  Black  Warp 

17  Violet  from  Violet  Warp 

18  Royal  Blue  from  White  Warp 

19  Lavender  from  White  Warp 

20  Red  Brown  from  Purple  Warp 

21  Green  from  White  Warp 

22  Solid  Grain  Pink  from  White 

Warp 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


1 Light  Brown 

2 Chromed  Brown 

3 Claret 

4 Dark  Claret 

5 Blue  Claret 

6 Violet 

7 Adelaide 

8 Dark  Claret  Brown 


9  Dark  Brown  Olive 

10  Green  Olive 

11  Darker  Green  Olive 

12  Chromed  Green 

13  Invisible  Green 

14  Blue  Black 

15  Full  Black 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS  FROM 


WHITE 

WARPS. 

1 Cinnamon  Brown 

15  Invisible  Green 

2 Red  Brown 

16  Red  Claret 

3 Coffee  Brown 

17  Red  Brown 

4 Light  Claret 

18  Dark  Brown 

5 Middle  Claret 

19  Silver  Drab 

6 Dark  Claret 

20  Dark  Silver  Drab 

7 Chromed  Claret 

21  Stone  Drab 

8 Adelaide 

22  Madder  Drab 

9 Mulberry 

23  Lavender  Drab 

10  Apple  Green 

24  Pink 

11  Light  Olive 

25  Sea  Green 

12  Dark  Green  Olive 

26  Sky  Blue 

13  Brown  Olive 

27  Full  Black 

14  Dark  Green 

COLORED  MERINOS. 


1 Royal  Blue 

2 Dark  Royal  Blue 

3 Grain  Maroon 

4 Full  Grain  Crimson 

5 Pink 

6 Salmon 

7 Grain  Rose 

8 Light  Orange 

9 Yellow 

10  Grain  Scarlet 

11  Lac  Searlet 

12  Light  Pea  Green 

13  Sea  Green 

14  Apple  Green 

15  Bottle  Green 

16  Invisible  Green 

17  Chromed  Green 

18  Chromed  Invisible  Green 

19  Purple 

20  Light  Chromed  Purple 

21  Violet 


22  Ruby 

23  Maroon 

24  Light  Claret 

25  Middle  Claret 

26  Full  Claret 

27  Dark  Green  Olive 

28  Brown  Olive 

29  Full  Red  Brown 

30  Dark  Coffee  Brown 

31  Adelaide 

32  Mulberry 

33  Light  Sky  Blue 

34  Dark  Sky  Blue 

35  Lavender 

36  Red  Lavender 

37  Madder  Drab 

38  Full  Drab 

39  Silver  Drab 

40  Blue  Black 

41  Full  Black 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


1 Royal  Blue 

2 Bloomy  Royal  Blue 

3 Light  Rose 

4 Full  Rose 

5 Light  Salmon 

6 Full  Salmon 

7 Melon 

8 Yellow 


9 Orange 

10  Yellow  Buff 

11  Light  Buff 

12  Full  Buff 

13  Scarlet 

14  Lavender 

15  Sky  Blue 


PADDING. 


1 Estariazer  Standard 

2 Red  Brown  Standard 

3 Dark  Purple  Standard 

4 Drab  Standard 

5 Drab  Standard 

6 Gray,  or  Quaker  Drab  Standard 

7 Slate  Standard 

8 Dove  Standard,  old  way 

9 Dark  Dove  Standard,  new  way 

10  Light  Dove  Standard 

11  Fawn  Drab  Standard 

12  Lavender  Standard 

13  Sulphate  of  Indigo 

14  Blue  Standard 

15  Bloom  Pink  Standard 

16  Royal  Blue  Standard 

17  Prussiate  of  Tin 

1 8 Claret  Standard 

19  To  Pad  Claret 

20  To  Pad  Black 

21  To  make  Acetate  of  Copper 

22  Stone  Drab  Standard 


23  Orange  Standard 

24  Light  Olive  Standard 

25  To  Pad  Dark  Shades  of  Olive 

26  Lilac 

27  Slate  Standard 

28  First  Shade,  Yellow  Stone  Drab 

29  Second  Shade,  Stone  Drab 

30  Third  Shade 

31  Cinnamon  Standard 

32  To  Pad  Cinnamon 

33  To  Pad  Estariazer  Color 

34  To  Pad  Slate  Colors 

35  Dark  Green  Standard 

36  Pale  Green 

37  Sky  Blue  Standard 

38  Lavender  Standard 

39  Drab  Preparation,  or  another 

Mode  of  Padding  Drab 

40  To  Pad  different  Shades  of  Drab 

41  Sky  Blue 

42  Royal  Blue 


SILK  WARP,  SKEIN,  AND  HANDKERCHIEF  PRINTING. 


1 Black 

2 Scarlet 

3 Green 

4 Claret 

5 Brown 

6 Dark  Red 

7 Orange 

8 Amber 

9 Pink 

10  Light  Pink 

11  Peach 


12  Light  Peach 

13  Dark  Purple 

14  Light  Purple 

15  Blue 

16  Dark  Brown 

17  Light  Brown 

18  Poppy  Red 

19  Dark  Fawn 

20  Light  Fawn 

21  Dark  Drab 

22  Light  Drab 


XVI 


CONTENTS. 


23  Dark  Dahlia 

24  Light  Dahlia 

25  Dark  Blue 

26  Light  Blue 

27  Dark  Green 

28  Light  Green 

29  Dark  Slate 

30  Light  Slate 

31  Red  Ruby 

32  Maze 

33  Dark  Lavender 

34  Light  Lavender 

35  Dark  Maroon 

36  Light  Maroon 

37  Dark  Grain  Crimson 

38  Pontia 

39  Rose 

40  Dark  Apricot 

41  Light  Apricot 

42  Dark  Red  Purple 

43  Light  Red  Purple 


44  Dark  Orange 

45  Light  Orange 

46  Dark  Olive 

47  Light  Olive 

48  Dark  Cinnamon  Brown 

49  Light  Cinnamon  Brown 

50  Dark  Yellow 

51  Light  Yellow 

52  Orange  Brown 

53  Light  Brown 

54  How  to  make  Bronze  Peach- 

wood 

55  To  make  Bronze  Logwood 

56  Copper  Liquor 

57  Annotta  Liquor 

58  Copperas  Buff 

59  Ammoniacal  Liquor 

60  Extract  of  Indigo  for  Printing 

61  Dark  Prussiate  Liquor 

62  Sulphate  of  Indigo 


NATURE  AND  USE  OF  DYEWARES. 


Alum 

Annotta 

Archil 

Ammonia 

Argol 

Super  Argol 
Camwood 
Catechu 
Cochineal 

Chrome,  or  Bichromate  of  Potass 
Cudbear 

Chemic,  or  Sulphate  of  Indigo 
French  Berry  or  Persian  Berry 
Fustic,  or  Young  Fustic 
Galls 


Indigo 

Kerin es,  or  Lac  Dye 

Logwood 

Madder 

Nitric  Acid,  or  Aqua  Fortis 

Nitrates 

Oxalic  Tin 

Peachwood 

Prussiate  of  Potass 

Quercitron  Bark 

Safflower 

Saunders,  or  Red  Sandal 

Sapan  Wood 

Sumac 

Turmeric 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER  BY  TESTS, 


TIIE  DYER’S  INSTRUCTOR. 


WOOL  DYEING. 


No.  1.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FANCY  BLOOM. 

Boil  1J  hours  with  1 lb.  of  Logwood — 1 J lb.  of 
Barwood — Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum.  The  Alum 
must  be  melted  before  it  is  thrown  upon  the  wool, 
and  then  well  stirred  in,  so  as  to  make  it  as  even  as 
possible.  Then  boil  half  an  hour  longer. — It  is  bet- 
ter to  melt  the  saddening,  whether  it  be  Alum,  Cop- 
peras, or  Blue  Vitriol,  as  bj  this  means  it  sooner 
penetrates  the  body  of  the  wool,  and  does  not  leave 
a deadness  in  some  parts,  as  is  generally  the  case 
when  the  saddening  is  put  on  in  the  crystal  state. 

No.  2.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DRAB. 

Boil  with  f lb.  of  Barwood — f-  lb.  of  Logwood — 2 
ozs.  Fustic— Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Copperas — And 
then  spread  well  out. 

No.  8.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— HEAVY  DRAB. 

Boil  with  8 ozs.  of  Logwood — 2 lbs.  of  Barwood 
— 1 lb.  of  Fustic — Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas — • 
Spread  out. 

No.  4.  180  lbs.  OF  WOOL— SLATE  COLOR. 

Boil  with  8 ozs.  of  Logwood — 2 J lbs.  of  Barwood 
— Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum — Spread  out.  This 
2*  17 


18 


WOOL  DYEING. 


shade  may  be  dyed  by  first  boiling  the  wool  in  1 lb. 
of  Chrome  for  about  an  hour,  then  wash  and  fill  it 
up  in  a separate  pan,  with  about  1 lb.  of  Logwood, 
and  8 ozs.  of  Cudbear. — But  as  this  mode  of  dyeing 
Drabs  will  not  stand  Milling  and  Scouring  so  well 
as  the  former,  I cannot  recommend  it,  though  some 
wool  dyers  follow  this  receipt. 

No.  5.  180  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  GREEN. 

Boil  one  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome  and  8 ozs.  of 
Alum.  Then  run  off  the  Liquor,  and  wash  well  in 
clean  water ; dye  off  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic  and  8 lbs. 
of  Logwood,  and  then  boil  to  shade  required.  By 
adding  more  Logwood  in  the  finishing,  any  shade  of 
Dark  Green  may  be  got.  When  not  Yellow  enough, 
add  a little  more  Fustic. — The  colors  dyed  by  means 
of  Chroming  are  very  difficult  to  distinguish  from 
those  of  fast  Indigo  colors,  and  can  only  be  distin- 
guished by  a strong  Acid : I shall  insert  a few  of 
them  to  accommodate  those  who  are  not  so  much 
acquainted  with  the  nature  of  Chrome.  From  this 
preparation  or  Mordant  almost  any  shade  may  be 
produced,  varying  from  a Light  Drab  to  a Dark 
Brown,  Dark  Green,  Dark  Purple,  Dark  Claret,  or 
Dark  Olive.  Peach  wood,  Logwood,  Fustic,  Cam- 
wood, Barwood,  and  Madder,  will  work  after  it. 
Peachwood  itself  will  make  a good  Claret  after  it, 
producing  a blue  shade;  but  when  too  blue,  a little 
Alum  will  redden  it,  and  will  work  as  solid  and  even 
a color  as  by  any  other  mode  of  preparation. 

No.  6.  180  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— A DARKER 
SHADE  OF  GREEN. 

Prepare  as  above  with  1 oz.  of  Chrome — 8 ozs.  of 
Alum. — Boil  one  hour,  then  take  it  out  and  let  it 
soak  an  hour  or  two,  and  then  fill  it  up  in  another 
water  with  12  lbs.  of  Logwood — 11  lbs.  of  Fustic. 


WOOL  DYEING. 


19 


No.  7.  70  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  BLUE. 

Prepare  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum — 8 ozs.  of  Chrome. — - 
Fill  up  with  8 lbs.  of  Ground  Logwood,  or  Chipped 
Logwood  boiled  up  in  bags. 

No.  8.  200  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LOGWOOD  BLUE. 

Prepare  or  boil  one  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome — 
4 lbs.  of  Alum — -1  lb.  of  Red  Argol.  Clean  and 
finish  with  35  lbs.  of  Logwood,  and  boil  half  an 
hour  in  the  finishing. — This  is  a good  imitation  of 
Indigo,  and  it  will  bear  exposure  to  the  atmosphere. 
I have  taken  this  receipt  from  my  “ Practical 
Dyer’s  Guide.”  It  has  been  used  by  some  parties 
who  have  purchased  the  “ Guide,”  and  they  state 
that  the  Receipt  alone  is  worth  the  price  of  the 
“ Guide.” 

No.  9.  50  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SAGE  DRAB. 

Prepare  as  above  with  8 ozs.  of  Chrome — 8 ozs. 
of  Argol — 4 ozs.  of  Alum — Finish  with  1 lb.  of 
Logwood — 8 ozs.  of  Fustic.  If  not  Red  enough,  add 
a handful  of  Cudbear,  and  boil  an  hour. 

No.  10.  160  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— BLACK. 

Boil  one  hour  with  4 lbs.  of  Chrome — 4 lbs.  of 
Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol — Finish  in  a clean  ves- 
sel with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood — 4 lbs.  of  Bar  wood. 
The  wood  must  be  well  boiled  up  in  bags  before  the 
wool  is  entered,  cool  down  a little,  and  enter  at  about 
180°,  then  boil  the  wool  about  an  hour.  This  is  a 
good  Black,  and  on  this  principle  almost  all  Blacks 
are  dyed,  in  stuff  goods,  and  cloth,  and  wool ; but 
some  dyers  think  it  is  not  so  durable  as  other  modes 
of  dyeing  Black.  Therefore  I will  now  give  two  or 
three  different  modes  of  dyeing  Blacks  on  wools. 


20 


WOOL  DYEING. 


No.  A. 

Another  mode  is  to  boil  the  wool  with  Camwood 
(a  sufficient  quantity  for  the  bloom)  for  about  two 
hours,  then  sadden  with  Copperas,  and  let  it  lay  in 
this  all  night ; next  morning,  boil  it  in  Logwood  for 
about  the  same  time  as  before,  and  then  sadden  again 
with  Copperas.  This  mode  is  preferred  by  some, 
being  a much  finer  Black,  and  will  stand  Milling 
without  losing  any  of  its  color.  By  the  former 
mode  it  assumes  a slight  green  appearance  in  the 
Milling,  and  consequently  loses  a little  of  its  dark- 
ness. The  best  Black  is  that  which  is  dyed  with 
Indigo  in  the  following  manner  : — 

No.  B. 

First  redden  with  Camwood  as  before,  but  without 
saddening,  and  then  fill  up  to  the  shade  in  the  woad 
vat.-  Either  Blue  Black  or  full  Black  may  be  dyed 
in  this  way,  and  it  is  certainly  the  best  and  firmest 
mode  of  dyeing  cloth.  It  vrill  stand  exposure  to  the 
atmosphere,  and  resist  any  acid  applied  to  it  for  a 
test,  neither  fading  nor  being  diminished  in  any 
measure ; even  Sulphuric  Acid  of  double  strength 
will  not  injure  the  color,  but  rather  brighten  it  than 
otherwise.  This  is  an  expensive  mode  of  dyeing  a 
Black,  but  it  is  worth  any  amount  charged  for  it,  on 
account  of  its  firmness  and  durability. 

No.  11.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FAST  BLUE 
BLACK. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Camwood — 8 lbs.  of  Alum — 
2 lbs.  of  Bed  Argol — Leave  in  the  pan  all  night, 
then  blue  up  about  one  half  in  the  vat,  and  then  in 
another  pan  boil  it  one  hour  with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood 
— Sadden  with  2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


WOOL  DYEING. 


21 


No.  12.  160  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— CALIFORNIA 
COLOR. 

Prepare  or  boil  one  hour  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome — 
2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol — 2 lbs.  of  Alum.  Clean  and 
finish  in  another  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Camwood — 40 
lbs.  of  Fustic — 30  lbs.  of  Crop  Madder.  If  a brighter 
shade  be  required,  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol.  All 
the  various  shades  of  this  color  may  be  dyed  after 
this  mode,  by  increasing  or  diminishing  the  same 
wares,  according  to  shade  required. 

No.  13.  120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  SHADE 
OF  CALIFORNIA  COLOR. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  this  color  is  as  follows: — ■ 
Boil  two  hours  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic— 24  lbs.  of 
Crop  Madder — 12  lbs.  of  Camwood — Sadden  with  4 
ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  14.  66  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Boil  with  4 ozs.  of  Logwood — If  lb.  of  Barwood 
— Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Alum.  Get  out  when 
boiled  to  the  shade,  and  spread. 

No.  15.  70  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  FAWN 
DRAB. 

Boil  with  3 lbs  of  Barwood — 3J  lbs.  of  Fustic — 
8 ozs.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  16.  170  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— MADDER  DRAB. 

Boil  with  3J  lbs.  of  Barwood — 3 lbs.  of  Fustic — 3 
lbs.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas. 

No.  17.  56  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FULLER  SHADE 
MADDER  DRAB. 

Boil  with  2 J lbs.  of  Barwood — 3 J lbs.  of  Fustic — 
8 ozs.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


22 


WOOL  DYEING. 


No.  18.  56  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  SHADE  OF 
MADDER  DRAB. 

Boil  with  4 lbs.  of  Barwood — 5 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 
lbs.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  8 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  19.  150  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— BLUE  SLATE 
COLOR. 

Stuff  or  boil  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 8 ozs.  of 
Fustic.  Boil  one  hour  and  sadden  with  12  ozs.  of 
Alum. 

No.  20.  120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— CRANE  BLUE. 

Stuff  with  16  lbs.  of  Logwood,  boil  f of  an  hour 
— Sadden  with  1J  lb.  of  Alum,  and  boil  to  pattern. 

No.  21.  90  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FANCY  BLOOM. 

Boil  one  hour  with  8 ozs.  of  Cudbear — If  lb.  of 
Logwood — 1 J lb.  of  Barwood — Sadden  with  lib.  of 
Alum. 

No.  22.  70  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Stuff  with  10  ozs.  of  Logwood — 8 ozs.  of  Camwood 
— Sadden  with  3 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  23.  120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— REDDER  SHADE 
OF  SILVER  DRAB. 

Stuff  with  18  ozs.  of  Logwood — 10  ozs.  of  Cud- 
bear— 3 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  24.  60  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— A VERY  LIGHT 
SHADE  OF  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 oz.  of  Chemic  or  good  extract — 4 ozs. 
of  Alum — 10  ozs.  of  Logwood — 1 oz.  of  Copperas. 
Boil  one  hour. 


WOOL  DYEING. 


23 


No  25.  120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  DRAB, 
YELLOWER  SHADE  THAN  No.  24. 

Dye  with  6 ozs.  of  Fustic — 3 ozs.  of  Logwood — 
2 ozs  of  Sumac — J an  oz.  of  Chemic — 8 ozs.  of 
Alum — 2 ozs  of  Copperas. 

No.  26.  70  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— VICUNA  DRAB. 

Stuff  with  5 lbs.  of  Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Mull  Madder. 
—5  lbs  of  Crop  Madder — 3 lbs.  of  Camwood — Sad- 
den witb  7 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  27.  50  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— REDDER  SHADE 

OF  VICUNA. 

Stuff  witb  5 lbs.  of  Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Mull  Mad- 
der— 1 lb.  of  Crop  Madder — 2J  lbs.  of  Camwood — • 
Sadden  witb  7 ozs.  of  Copperas.  These  are  shades 
somewhat  of  the  California  color. 

No.  28.  100  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FINE  RED 
LAVENDER. 

Stuff  witb  5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 3 lbs.  of  Cudbear 
— 8 ozs.  of  Camwood — Sadden  with  10  ozs.  of  Cop- 
peras. When  shades  are  not  required  so  bright,  but 
rather  of  a flat  and  dead  lavender,  add  a little  Fustic 
in  the  stuffing. 

No.  29.  120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic — 3 lbs  of  Logwood — - 
2 lbs.  of  Camwood — Sadden  with  8 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  30.  120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— GREENER  OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  7 lbs.  of  Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 
5 lbs.  of  Mull  Madder — 6 ozs.  of  Camwood — Sadden 
with  12  ozs.  of  Copperas. 


24 


WOOL  DYEING. 


No.  31.  120  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— REDDER  SHADE 
OF  OLIYE. 

Stuff  with  30  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs.  of  Camwood 
— 20  lbs.  of  Mull  Madder — 7 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder 
— 20  ozs.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  20  ozs.  of  Cop- 
peras. 


No.  32.  135  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  OLIYE. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 ozs.  of  Alum — 
7J  lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Madder — Sadden 
with  1J  lb.  of  Copperas — 1J  lb.  of  Blue  Yitriol. 

No.  33.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  GREEN 
OLIYE. 

Stuff  with  50  lbs.  of  Fustic — 4 lbs.  of  Camwood 
— 9 lbs.  of  Logwood — Boil  well  for  an  hour  and  a 
half— Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Cop- 
peras— Boil  well  in  the  saddening. 

No.  34.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  GREEN 
OLIYE,  CHROMED. 

Prepare  or  boil  an  hour  with  If  lb.  of  Chrome — 
12  ozs.  of  Alum.  Then  spread  it  on  the  floor  all 
night,  and  next  morning  fill  up  with  45  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 12  lbs.  of  Camwood— 6 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
This  shade  of  Olive  is  similar  to  that  of  No.  33,  but 
dyed  in  quite  a different  manner.  Some  dyers  think 
that  the  latter  mode  is  the  better  and  the  faster  color, 
but  I think  it  is  not  so  durable  as  the  former.  The 
Olive  shades  are  mostly  dyed  according  to  one  of 
these  two  modes,  but  neither  can  be  called  fast 
Olives.  The  Fast  Olive  is  dyed  by  being  first 
dyed  Blue  in  the  Woad  vat,  and  then  filled  up  after 
in  the  following  manner  : — 


WOOL  DYEING. 


25 


No.  35.  12  stones  OF  WOOL. — TRUE  OLIVE. 

After  blueing  to  about  a middle  shade  in  the 
Woad  vat — Stuff  with  100  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs. 
of  Logwood — 3 lbs.  of  Madder— 2 \ lbs.  of  Alum — 
Sadden  with  2J  lbs.  of  Copperas.  Darker  or  lighter 
shades  may  be  dyed  by  blueing  darker  or  lighter  in 
the  vat,  according  to  shade  required.  Any  shade  of 
true  Olive  may  be  dyed  after  this  manner,  even  down 
to  a Sage  Drab,  by  blueing  light  enough  in  the  W oad 
vat. 

No.  36.  80  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— V ANT  COLOR, 
NEARLY  CANARY  COLOR. 

Prepare  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome — 8 ozs.  of  Alum — 
Boil  an  hour,  get  the  wool  out,  and  let  it  drain  well, 
then  fill  up  in  a vessel  of  clean  water,  with  20  lbs. 
of  Chipped  Fustic — Boil  half  an  hour.  If  a redder 
shade  is  required,  add  a little  Barwood,  as  it  will 
cause  it  to  have  more  of  an  Orange  hue.  This  is 
not  Canary  color,  which  is  dyed  with  Bark  or  Young 
Fustic ; nor  is  it  so  lively,  but  resembles  the  light 
shade  of  California  color. 

No.  37.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic — 30  lbs.  of  Camwood 
— Boil  two  hours,  then  sadden  with  2 lbs.  of  Cop- 
peras, and  spread. 

No.  38.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— MIDDLE  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic — 30  lbs.  of  Camwood 
— 1 lb.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas. 

No.  39.  100  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  45  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs.  of  Camwood 
— 1J  lb.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  1J  lb.  of  Cop- 
3 


26 


WOOL  DYEING. 


peras.  These  are  good  Browns,  and  will  stand  Mill- 
ing, but  the  Browns  dyed  first  in  the  Woad  vat  are 
more  permanent. 

No.  40.  90  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— TRUE  BROWN. 

First  bine  a light  shade  in  the  Woad  vat,  then 
stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic — 10  lbs.  of  Madder— 2 
or  3 lbs.  of  Camwood — 4 ozs.  of  Logwood— Sadden 
with  1 lb.  of  Copperas — 4 ozs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 
Either  lighter  or  darker  shades  of  Browns  may  be 
dyed  after  this  mode  ; by  dyeing  in  vat  according  to 
shade,  darker  Blue  for  darker  Browns,  and  lighter 
Blues  for  lighter  Browns,  or  by  adding  more  or  less 
Logwood  in  the  Stuffing,  and  more  or  less  Copperas 
in  the  saddening. 

No.  41.  160  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LIGHT  GREEN. 

Dye  off  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 quarts  of  Chemic 
— 4 lbs.  of  Argol — 8 lbs.  of  Alum — Boil  one  hour. 
This  is  a good  bright  Green.  Darker  shades  of 
Green  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  Chemic. 

No.  42.  70  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— MOSS  GREEN. 

This  color  may  be  dyed  by  means  of  the  Chrom- 
ing process,  and  filling  up  with  Fustic  and  Logwood ; 
but  as  by  this  mode  it  is  not  fast,  the  proper  mode 
is  to  blue  it  in  the  vat  first  to  shade,  and  then  stuff 
with— 50  lbs.  of  Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Madder — 8 ozs. 
of  Logwod — 2 lbs.  of  Camwood — Sadden  with  4 
ozs.  of  Copperas — 2 ozs.  of  Blue  Vitriol.  It  is  diffi- 
cult to  distinguish  between  the  true  Green  and  the 
other,  as  such  a near  resemblance  can  be  produced 
by  the  former  mode.  Nearly  all  the  shades  of 
Green,  from  this  up  to  the  Invisible,  and  all  the 
various  shades  of  Bottle  Green  may  bed  yed,  either 
with  the  yellow  or  blue  hue  upon  them,  and  will 


WOOL  DYEING.  27 

appear  equally  as  good,  and  can  only  be  distinguished 
by  a test  of  strong  Sulphuric  Acid. 

No.  43.  100  lbs.  of  WOOL.— A GOOD  BOTTLE 
GREEN,  CHROMED. 

Boil  one  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome — 2 lbs.  of 
Alum — Finish  in  a vessel  of  clean  water  with  30 
lbs.  of  Fustic — 15  lbs.  of  Logwood — Boil  an  hour 
in  the  finishing. 

No.  44.  100  lbs.  of  WOOL.— INVISIBLE 
GREEN,  CHROMED. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  43,  and  finish  the  same,  only 
add  more  Logwood  and  less  Fustic,  say — 20  lbs. 
of  Fustic — 30  lbs.  of  Logwood.  All  the  various 
shades  of  rifles  may  be  died  after  this  manner.  I 
will  next  give  a receipt  for  the  true  Green. 

No.  45.  24  stones  OF  WOOL.— BOTTLE  GREEN, 
TRUE  COLOR. 

After  dyeing  a dark  Indigo  Blue  in  the  vat,  boil 
two  hours  with  80  lbs.  of  Fustic — 40  lbs.  of  Log- 
wood— 8 ozs.  of  Alum.  The  Invisible  is  dyed  after 
the  same  manner,  but  still  darker ; the  real  fast 
Green  is  dyed  entirely  without  Logwood. 

No.  46.  12  stones  OF  WOOL.— VIOLET  OR 
MULBERRY. 

After  being  blued  to  a dark  blue  in  the  vat — Boil 
one  hour  with  100  lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Alum 
— 5 lbs.  of  Argol.  Then  fish  up  and  add  4 quarts  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin;  if  not  dark  enough,  add  more  Log- 
wood, and  boil  half  an  hour  more.  The  Plum 
color,  Mulberry,  and  Adelaide,  have  been  dyed  upon 
this  mode  for  the  true  colors,  but  the  better  mode  is 
that  of  Chroming  first,  the  same  as  for  Black  and 


28 


WOOL  DYEING. 


other  colors,  and  then  redden  and  darken  with  Cud- 
bear and  Logwood,  as  any  shade  of  darkness  may 
be  got  by  adding  more  Logwood,  and  then  putting 
it  through  the  vat.  These  would  be  faster  colors, 
and  have  more  solidity  about  them. 

No.  47.  130  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FINE  CLARET. 

Boil  two  hours  with  70  lbs.  of  Camwood  or  Sand- 
ers— 1 lb.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  2 J lbs.  of  Cop- 
peras. 

No.  48.  140  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARKER  CLARET. 

Boil  two  hours  with  70  lbs.  of  Camwood — Then 
take  up  and  let  it  drain  an  hour  or  two,  and  sadden 
with  3 lbs.  of  Copperas — 8 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

No.  49.  130  lbs.  OF  WOOL— RUSSIAN  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 40  lbs.  of  Red 
Sanders — Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Copperas — 1 lb.  of 
Alum. 

No.  50.  240  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— DARK  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  130  lbs.  of  Fustic — 10  lbs.  of  Crop 
Madder — 50  lbs.  of  Camwood — 4 lbs.  of  Logwood 
— Boil  two  hours,  then  sadden  with  10  lbs.  of  Cop- 
peras— Smother  all  night. 

No.  51  A.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— LAC  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 1 lb.  of  Young 
Fustic — 4 lbs.  of  Lac — 2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 
Boil  one  hour. 

No.  51  B.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FULL  PINK. 
Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 lb.  of  Alum — 2 lbs. 
of  Cochineal  paste — 2 pints  of  Spirits — Boil  one 
hour. 


29 


WOOL  DYEING. 

No.  52.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— WINE  COLOR. 
Dye  off  with  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear.  If  a Blue  shade 
is  wanted  add  a little  Ammonia,  and  if  a Redder 
shade,  a little  Spirits  of  Salts. 

No.  53.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— ROYAL  BLUE. 
Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Prussiate — 3 quarts  of  Blue 
Spirits.  The  wool  must  be  entered  cold,  and  the 
liquor  heated  up  to  a boil  as  soon  as  possible,  and 
when  boiled  half  an  hour  take  it  out  and  add  2 pints 
of  Finishing  Spirits.  If  a darker  shade  is  required 
add  Logwood  according  to  shade  with  the  Finishing 
Spirits ; or  it  is  preferable  to  add  the  Logwood  at 
the  beginning  with  the  Prussiate  for  Wools.  Royal 
Blues  that  have  to  stand  Milling  and  Steaming 
should  always  have  as  much  Ammonia  as  Blue 
Spirits  at  the  beginning,  as  it  makes  them  much 
firmer  and  cleaner. 

No.  54.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal  paste — 1 lb.  of  dry 
Cochineal — 2 pints  of  Spirits — 2 lbs.  of  Tartar — 
Boil  one  hour. 

No.  55.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochi- 
neal— 3 pints  of  Spirits — 2 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 
Boil  one  hour. 

No.  56.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar — 1 lb.  of  Alum — 4 lbs. 
of  Bark — 2 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 2 pints  of  Spirits 
— Boil  twenty  minutes. 


3* 


30 


WOOL  DYEING. 


No.  57.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— OEANGE. 

Dry  with  8 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 7 lbs.  of  Young 
Fustic — 1 lb.  of  Tartar — 2 pints  of  Spirits. 

No.  58.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— CANAEY  COLOR. 

Dye  with  1J  lb.  of  Bark — 1 lb.  of  Tartar — 1 lb. 
of  Alum — 1 quart  of  Spirit.  Boil  twenty  minutes. 

No.  59.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SKY  BLUE. 
Dry  with  J a gill  of  liquid  Extract — 1 lb.  of 
Argol — 2 lbs.  of  Alum.  Boil  twenty  minutes. 

No.  60.  20  lbs.  OF  WOOL.— SAXONY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract — 1 lb.  of  Argol 
— 2 lbs.  of  Alum.  Boil  twenty  minutes. 


COTTON  DYEING. 


No.  1.  20  lbs.  OP  COTTON.— BUFF. 

After  being  boiled  and  properly  wet,  run  through 
a clear  Lime  Liquor,  then  through  a weak  Copperas 
Liquor,  both  cold  liquor  ; repeat  in  each  liquor  until 
the  shade  be  full  enough.  Another  mode  of  dyeing 
Buff  is: 

No.  2.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BUFF. 

Bun  the  Cotton  through  Nitrate  of  Iron,  at  about 
4°  Twaddell,  and  then  through  a weak  Ammonia 
Liquor  in  another  tub;  repeat  in  each  until  the 
shade  be  full  enough.  Both  these  are  firm  Buff 
colors. 

No.  3.  20.  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BUFF,  OR 
NANKIN. 

Shave  4 lbs.  of  Spanish  Annotta  into  30  gallons 
of  water,  to  which  add  2 lbs.  of  Pearlash  ; boil  it 
well  up,  let  it  settle,  and  drain  off  the  clear  liquor ; 
run  the  Cotton  in  this  Liquor  until  you  get  the  shade 
required.  All  the  various  shades  of  light  Buffs, 
Nankin  colors,  and  Straw  colors  as  well,  may  be 
dyed  from  Annotta  by  adding  little  enough  of  it  for 
the  shade.  The  fine  Straw  colors  which  have  a 
yellow  tinge  have  bleached  bottoms,  that  is,  they 
are  first  bleached,  and  then  dyed  in  the  following 
manner 

31 


32 


COTTON  DYEING. 


No.  4.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— STKAW  COLOR. 

After  being  bleached,  boil  or  scald,  as  may  be 
convenient,  10  lbs.  of  Fustic  in  10  gallons  of  water, 
with  a few  lbs.  of  Alum,  and  add  clear  Liquor  accord- 
ing to  shade,  in  a tub  of  cold  water.  If  fuller  shades 
are  wanted,  add  a little  Alum  Liquor.  The  most 
lively  colors  of  this  class  are  dyed  after  this  manner 
for  two-colored  Damasks,  and  other  goods  that  are 
made  up  with  Silk  weft. 

No.  5.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FLESH  COLOR. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  2 gallons  of  spent  An- 
riotta,  and  1 gallon  of  Turmeric  Liquor;  the  Turme- 
ric must  be  boiled  up  with  a little  Alum,  about  4 
ozs.  to  the  gallon  of  water.  A great  variety  of  shades 
of  this  color  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  of  the  one 
and  less  of  the  other  of  the  two  ingredients,  Annotta 
and  Turmeric. 

No.  6.  20.  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SAFFLOWER 
PINK. 

Squeeze  the  Liquor  from  4.  lbs.  of  Safflower  into 
a tub ; give  10  turns  in  cold  water.  If  the  shade  be 
too  blue,  add  about  1 tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  give 
it  a few  turns  more.  Nearly  the  same  shade  may  be 
dyed  upon  bleached  cotton  in  the  following  manner : 
First,  steep  it  in  4 lbs.  of  Sumac  in  a tub,  after  which 
it  must  be  spirited  in  a tub  of  cold  water,  with  either 
Muriate  or  Nitro-Muriate  of  Tin.  The  Liquor  must 
stand  at  2°  Twaddell.  Then  add  to  another  tub  of 
cold  water  5 lbs.  of  Spent  Peachwood.  To  spend 
the  Peachwood,  let  it  boil  a few  minutes,  or  be  well 
scalded,  and  so  with  all  the  other  woods. 


COTTON  DYEING. 


83 


No.  7.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  PINK. 

This  shade  is  dyed  in  the  same  manner  as  No.  6, 
with  the  exception  of  having  less  Sumac  and  Peach- 
wood;  of  Sumac,  2 lbs.  instead  of  4 lbs.,  and  of 
Peachwood,  2J  lbs.  instead  of  5 lbs. 

No.  8.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SCARLET. 

It  must  be  first  steeped  in  4 lbs.  of  Sumac,  then 
spirited  with  Muriate  of  Tin,  at  2°  Twaddell,  and 
then  dyed  with  2 lbs.  of  Peachwood  and  3 lbs.  of 
Bark,  previously  spent ; let  the  Liquor  be  lukewarm. 
Give  10  turns,  and  then  wash  off  for  the  stove.  If 
a Yellower  shade  of  Scarlet  is  required,  add  more 
Bark  ; if  a Bluer  shade,  less  Bark ; if  a lighter  shade 
of  Scarlet,  add  less  of  both  Peachwood  and  Bark ; 
and  if  a darker  shade  of  Scarlet  is  required,  add 
more  of  both  Peachwood  and  Bark. 

No.  9.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  CINNA- 
MON BROWN. 

Boil  up  2 lbs.  of  Yellow  Catechu  with  2 gallons  of 
water,  add  to  it  4 ozs.  of  Blue  Yitriol,  and  let  it  boil 
twenty  minutes.  In  another  vessel  dissolve  8 ozs. 
of  Chrome,  and  keep  it  at  the  boiling  heat ; run  the 
Cotton  in  the  Catechu  first,  give  8 turns,  wring  out, 
enter  the  Chrome  tub,  give  8 turns  more,  wring  out, 
and  wash  off  for  the  stove. 

No.  10.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARKER  SPIADE 
OF  LIGHT  BROWN. 

This  shade  is  dyed  the  same  as  No.  9,  with  the 
exception  of  having  2 lbs.  of  Black  Catechu  instead 
of  2 lbs.  of  Yellow.  When  the  shade  is  not  Yellow 
enough,  add  to  the  Catechu  a little  Fustic,  or  Turme- 
ric, which  is  preferable.  Any  shade  of  Cinnamon 


34 


COTTON  DYEING. 

Brown  may  be  dyed  by  varying  the  Catechu  and 
Turmeric,  giving  more  of  the  one  and  less  of  the 
other,  according  to  the  shade  required. 

No.  11.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARK  SHADES 
OF  BROWN. 

These  shades  must  be  first  steeped  in  Sumac,  then 
saddened  with  a little  Copperas  Liquor  in  another 
tub,  and  a little  Urine  amongst  it,  and  then  dyed  in 
all  respects  the  same  as  the  other  two  Browns. 

No.  12.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— CHROME 

YELLOW. 

Dissolve  8 ozs.  of  white  Sugar  of  Lead  in  one  tub, 
and  8 ozs.  c>f  Chrome  in  another ; enter  the  tub  with 
the  Sugar  of  Lead  first*  cold ; give  five  turns,  and 
then  enter  the  Chrome,  and  give  five  turns,  and 
wring  out ; enter  the  other  tub  again,  give  five  turns 
more,  and  then  wash  off  for  the  stove. 

No.  13.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARKER  SHADE 
OF  CHROMED  YELLOW. 

Dissolve  8 ozs.  of  Brown  Sugar  of  Lead,  and  8 ozs. 
of  Chrome,  each  in  a separate  tub;  enter  the  Sugar 
of  Lead  first,  give  6 ends,  then  enter  the  Chrome, 
give  6 turns  in  it;  repeat  three  times  in  the  Sugar 
of  Lead  tub,  and  twice  in  the  Chrome ; wash  off  out 
of  the  Sugar  of  Lead  tub  for  the  stove. 

No.  14.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  CHROME 
ORANGE. 

First  make  up  a tub  of  cold  water,  to  which  add 
4 pailfuls  of  Lime  Lee,  or  clear  Lime  Water;  enter 
the  Cotton  and  turn  four  rounds ; dissolve  4 lbs.  of 
Brown  Sugar  of  Lead  in  6 quarts  of  water;  in  another 
tub  of  cold  water  add  2 quarts  of  this  solution,  enter 


COTTON  DYEING. 


35 


the  cotton,  give  three  turns,  squeeze  out.  Enter 
into  another  tub  of  clear  lime  water,  give  three  turns 
in  this,  and  in  each  of  the  two  last  tubs,  repeat  three 
times,  adding  to  the  first  tub  1 quart  of  the  solution, 
and  to  the  other  fresh  Lime  Liquor  each  time  before 
you  enter.  Then  dissolve  two  lbs.  of  Chrome  in  4 
quarts  of  water,  make  up  a tub  at  about  20°,  and  add 
2 quarts  of  the  Chrome  Liquor ; enter  the  Cotton  into 
this,  give  three  turns,  and  wring  it  out ; then  enter 
the  Sugar  of  Lead  tub,  and  add  1 quart  more  of  the 
solution  that  is  left,  repeat  three  times,  and  add  1 
quart  of  the  solution  each  time,  and  finish  out  of  the 
Chrome. 

In  this  state  it  will  appear  very  uneven,  as  the  at- 
mosphere affects  it  very  much,  but  it  will  become 
even  in  the  raising  of  it,  which  is  done  as  follows  : 
Into  a pan  or  vessel  of  any  sort  with  an  open  top, 
add  7 pailfuls  of  clear  Lime  Water;  bring  it  just  up 
to  the  spring  and  scum  it  well ; do  not  let  it  boil ; 
after  scumming  cool  down  a little,  enter  the  cotton, 
and  give  five  turns.  Be  careful  not  to  add  too  much 
Lime  Water  or  it  will  destroy  the  beauty  of  the 
color.  This  color,  like  some  others,  will  feel  rather 
rough,  and  therefore  must  be  run  through  a little 
softening,  which  is  made  as  follows:  Dissolve  8 ozs. 
of  Pearlash  or  Soda  in  1 gallon  of  warm  Water,  to 
which  add  one  pint  of  Fish  Oil,  mix  it  well  together, 
and  give  it  a little  of  it  in  a tub  of  warm  water. 

No.  15.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST  DRAB. 

Boil  up  6 lbs.  of  Mahogany  Sawdust — Draw  the 
clear  liquor  into  a tub  and  give  five  turns — Raise 
in  the  same  Liquor  with  one  gill  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 
The  Drabs  dyed  in  this  way  are  very  fast,  and  a 
great  variety  of  Shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding 
more  or  less  of  the  wood  according  to  Shade. 


36 


COTTON  DYEING. 


No.  16.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST  BLUE. 

To  a Tub  of  Cold  Water  add  1 lb.  of  Copperas 
dissolved — } of  a Noggin  of  Muriatic  Acid — Give  5 
turns  and  wring  out.  To  another  Tub  of  Cold 
Water  add  8 ozs.  of  dissolved  Prussiate — Give  5 
turns  and  take  up.  Add  about  1 Noggin  of  Oil  of 
Yitriol — Give  5 turns  more  and  wash  off  for  the 
Stove. 

No.  17.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LAVENDER. 

To  a Tub  of  Cold  Water  add  2 lbs.  of  Logwood 
previously  scalded,  and  use  only  the  clear  Liquor — 
Add  to  it  1 lb.  of  Alum — Enter  and  give  6 or  8 turns 
■ — Lift  up  and  add  8 ozs.  of  Sweet  Extract — 2 lbs. 
more  Alum — Give  6 turns,  and  if  a Redder  Shade  is 
required,  add  more  Logwood  Liquor,  and  if  Bluer, 
more  Extract. 

No.  18.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LILAC. 

To  a Tub  of  Cold  Water  add  3 lbs.  of  Logwood — 
1J  lb.  of  Alum,  or  a little  Red  Liquor,  which  is  pre- 
ferable in  this  class  of  colors ; give  6 or  8 turns. 
Lighter  or  darker  Shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding 
more  or  less  Logwood. 

No.  19.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SILVER  DRAB. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  about  4 ozs.  of  Log- 
wood and  1 quart  of  clear  Lime  W ater ; give  about 
8 turns,  and  wash  off  for  the  stove. 

No.  20.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— GOOD  LIGHT 
DRAB. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  J-  an  oz.  of  Logwood 
and  1 lb.  of  Fustic ; give  10  turns,  then  lift  up,  and 
add  8 ozs.  of  Blue  Vitriol,  and  give  8 turns  more, 
then  wash  off’  for  the  stove. 


COTTON  DYEING. 


87 


No.  21.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON. — FULLER  SHADE 
OF  No.  20. 

In  all  respects  dye  the  same,  but  add  double  the 
quantity  of  both  Fustic  and  Logwood. 

No.  22.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  OLIYE. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  5 lbs.  of  Fustic,  pre- 
viously scalded,  and  1J  lb.  of  Logwood;  give  10 
turns,  then  lift  up,  and  raise  by  adding  8 ozs.  of 
Blue  Vitriol ; give  10  turns  more,  and  wash  off  for 
the  stove. 

No.  28.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARKER  OLIVE. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  4 lbs.  of  Sumac ; steep 
in  this  for  an  hour.  Sadden  in  another  tub  of  cold 
water,  with  2 lbs.  of  dissolved  Copperas,  give  8 turns, 
wring  out,  enter  another  tub  of  warm  water,  with  J 
a pailful  of  Urine.  Then  dye  in  another  tub  with 
6 lbs.  of  Fustic,  and  raise  in  the  same  liquor  with  1 
lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

No.  24.  24  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARK  OLIVE. 

Dark  shades  of  Olive  are  dyed  same  as  No.  28, 
but  adding  with  the  Fustic  a little  Logwood,  accord- 
ing to  the  shade  of  darkness,  and  when  not  Yellow 
enough,  add  a little  more  Fustic  Liquor,  or  Turmeric 
Liquor,  which  is  preferable  for  dark  colors. 

No.  25.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  YELLOW 
DRAB. 

In  a tub  of  warm  water,  add  8 ozs.  of  Turmeric,  4 
ozs.  of  Logwood,  and  8 lbs.  of  Fustic ; raise  in  the 
same  Liquor  with  2J  lbs.  of  Alum.  Give  10  turns 
before  and  10  turns  after  saddening,  and  wash  off 
for  the  stove. 

4 


88 


COTTON  DYEING. 


No.  26.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  BUFF. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  a little  Nitrate  of  Iron; 
give  10  turns,  lift  up,  and  raise  with  a little  lime 
water  and  a little  potash  in  the  same  liquor  ; give  a 
few  turns  more  and  wash  off. 

No.  27.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  BLUE. 

Bun  through  the  Copperas  Yat  one  end.  How  to 
dye  the  same  shade  with  Extract : in  a tub  of  cold 
water,  add  10  ozs.  of  Sweet  Extract,  aud  2 lbs.  of 
Alum.  Various  shades  of  Light  Blue  may  be  dyed 
with  Extract,  by  adding  more  or  less,  according  to 
shade  required.  Give  10  turns,  and  then  dry  off. 

No.  28.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  EX- 
TBACT  GBEEN. 

In  a tub  of  water  at  about  100°,  add  8 ozs.  of 
Turmeric,  previously  scalded ; give  10  turns,  lift  up, 
and  add  4 lbs.  of  Alum  and  1 lb.  of  Extract ; enter 
again,  and  give  10  turns  more,  and  then  wash  off 
for  the  stove.  Various  shades  of  Green  may  be 
dyed  after  this  manner  by  adding  Extract  according 
to  shade.  The  Extract  must  be  well  mixed  before 
it  is  used.  Greens  of  this  dye  are  not  so  permanent 
as  those  with  a Copperas  Vat  Blue  bottom. 

No.  29.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— MIDDLE  SHADE 
OF  GBEEN. 

First  run  the  Cotton  through  the  Copperas  Vat, 
and  get  a moderate  shade  of  Blue,  after  which  wash 
it  well.  In  another  tub  add  15  lbs;  of  scalded  Fustic, 
enter  the  Cotton,  and  give  10  turns ; lift  up,  add  4 
lbs.  of  Alum,  and  give  10  turns  more.  If  the  shade 
is  required  bluer,  add  more  Extract  in  the  same 
liquor: 


COTTON  DYEING. 


39 


No.  30,  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DABK  SHADE 
OF  GBEEN. 

Dark  shades  of  Green  must  have  a darker  Blue 
bottom,  and  are  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as  No. 
29. 

No.  31.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— CnEOMED  AND 
FAST  GEEENS. 

Blue  according  to  the  shade  required  in  the  Cop- 
peras Yat,  for  light  shade  of  Green.  In  a tub  of 
cold  water  add  1 lb.  of  Sugar  of  Lead,  enter  the  Cot- 
ton, and  give  5 ends ; in  another  tub  of  hot  water 
add  1 lb.  of  melted  Chrome,  give  five  turns,  wring 
out,  repeat  twice,  and  finish  off  in  the  Sugar  of  Lead, 
and  then  wash  off  for  the  stove. 

Dark  Chromed  Greens  are  dyed  darker  in  the 
Copperas  Yat  first,  and  have  about  one-half  more 
Chrome,  and  are  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as 
light  Greens. 

No.  32.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— LIGHT  CATE- 
CHU BBOWN. 

Spend  3 lbs.  of  Catechu  with  3 ozs.  of  Blue  Yitriol ; 
put  this  into  a tub  of  warm  water,  enter  the  Cotton, 
give  8 turns,  wring  out,  and  enter  another  tub  of 
hot  water  with  8 ozs.  of  Chrome,  at  the  boiling 
point ; give  6 ends,  and  then  wash  off  for  the  stove. 

No.  33.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DAEKEE  CATE- 
CHU BBOWN. 

In  a tub  of  hot  water,  add  4 lbs.  of  Catechu ; give 
6 turns ; in  another  tub  of  hot  water,  add  8 ozs.  of 
Chrome,  enter,  give  5 turns,  wash  out,  and  repeat 
once  more  in  each  tub,  and  then  wash  off  for  the 
stove. 


40 


COTTON  DYEING. 


No.  34.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— DARK  CATE- 
CHU  BROWN. 

Spend  8 lbs.  of  Catechu  with  8 ozs.  of  Blue  Vit- 
riol, enter  the  Cotton,  and  for  convenience  let  it  stay 
in  it  all  night,  after  giving  it  a few  tnrns.  Then  in 
another  tub  of  hot  water  add  1 lb.  of  Chrome,  enter 
and  give  a few  turns,  wash  out  of  the  Chrome,  and 
repeat  twice  or  three  times. 

No.  35.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  DARK 
CATECHU  BROWN. 

A darker  class  of  colors  may  be  dyed  by  using 
one-half  of  Yellow  Catechu  and  one-half  of  the 
Black  Catechu,  and  for  very  Red  shades  use  all 
Black  Catechu.  If  very  dark  shades  are  required, 
they  must  be  first  Sumaced  and  Saddened,  and  then 
dyed  in  the  same  way. 

No.  36.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  YELLOW 
SCARLET. 

Scald  4 lbs.  of  Sumac,  and  add  it  to  a tub  of  cold 
water,  and  steep  the  Cotton  pn  it  for  a few  hours. 
Make  up  another  tub  of  cold  water,  and  add  Nitro- 
Muriate  of  Tin  until  it  stands  at  2°  Twaddell ; enter 
the  Cotton  into  this,  and  give  about  10  turns.  In 
another  tub,  add  4 lbs.  of  Peachwood  and  1 lb.  of 
Turmeric,  both  previously  spent;  enter  the  Cotton, 
give  10  turns,  and  raise  in  the  same  Liquor,  with  2 
lbs.  of  Alum ; let  the  Liquor  be  at  about  100°  Twad- 
dell. 

No.  37.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BARWOOD  RED. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water  add  5 lbs.  of  Sumac,  give  a 
few  turns  and  steep  in  it  all  night.  In  another  tub 
of  cold  water  add  Spirits  until  it  stands  at  3°  Twad- 


COTTON  DYEING. 


41 


dell ; give  8 turns,  wash  in  cold  water,  and  warm  also. 
Then  in  a Copper  or  Block  Tin  Vessel,  add  20  lbs.  of 
Barwood,  boil  up  15  minutes  before  the  cotton  is  put 
in,  then  cool  down  a little  and  enter  the  cotton,  bring 
it  up  to  a spring  boil  and  turn  it  on  until  it  comes 
up  to  the  shade  ; say  about  an  hour. 

No.  38.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— IMITATION  OF 
TURKEY  RED. 

This  color  is  dyed  the  same  as  Barwood  red,  ex- 
cept when  it  has  boiled  about  an  hour,  take  out  of 
the  vessel  and  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  boil 
it  a short  time  longer.  The  oil  will  give  it  a much 
bluer  appearance,  and  will  very  much  imitate  the 
Turkey  Red.  Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be 
dyed  by  adding  more  or  less  of  the  Barwood. 

No.  39.  VARIOUS  SHADES  OF  SILVER 
DRAB. 

A good  Silver  Drab  of  a very  light  color  may  be 
dyed  by  first  giving  a few  turns  in  a little  Gall 
Liquor,  and  then  lift  up  and  add  a little  Nitrate  of 
Iron,  and  give  a few  turns  more,  and  wash  off  for  the 
stove.  A few  Valonias  will  produce  nearly  the 
same  effect,  but  not  quite  so  fine  a shade.  The  Valo- 
nias must  be  boiled  with  a little  water  to  get  the 
strength  out  of  them.  A great  variety  of  Blue 
Drabs  can  be  dyed  by  first  Sumacing  the  cotton,  and 
then  in  another  tub  add  a little  Nitrate  of  Iron  or 
Copperas  liquor,  and  give  a few  turns.  By  adding 
more  Iron  or  Copperas  liquor  the  shades  may  be 
dyed  up  to  a dark  Slate  color,  and  by  adding  a iittle 
Ammonia,  a class  of  Redder  shades  may  be  dyed, 
and  Yellower  by  adding  a little  Fustic. 

4* 


42 


COTTON  DYEING. 


No.  40.  VARIOUS  SHADES  OF  FAWN 
DRABS. 

A great  variety  of  Fawn  Drabs  may  be  dyed  by 
adding  to  a tub  of  cold  water  a little  Catechu,  and 
then  a little  more  according  to  shades  required ; and 
when  flatter  shades  are  wanted,  add  a little  Copperas 
liquor,  which  will  sadden  it.  Almost  any  variety 
of  shade  may  be  dyed  after  this  manner.  Then 
another  class  of  heavier  shades  must  have  a little 
Sumac  with  the  Catechu,  and  be  saddened  with  a 
little  Nitrate  of  Iron,  or  Copperas  Liquor. 

No.  41.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— GOOD  BLACK. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water  add  5 lbs.  of  Sumac,  give  a 
few  turns  and  steep  it  all  night  in  the  Sumac ; then 
in  another  tub  of  cold  water  add  a few  pails  of  Lime 
water,  wring  out ; in  another  tub  of  cold  water,  add 
2 lbs.  of  dissolved  Copperas  and  a pailful  of  the  old 
Sumac  liquor ; enter  and  give  6 turns,  then  wring 
out,  enter  the  lime  tub  again,  and  give  2 pails  more 
Lime  liquor ; then  scald  6 lbs.  of  Logwood,  and  1 lb. 
of  Fustic,  add  this  to  another  tub  of  water,  enter  the 
Cotton,  and  give  10  turns,  lift  up,  and  sadden  with  a 
little  Copperas  in  the  same  liquor. 

No.  42.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— A GOOD  BLACK 
TO  STAND  MILLING  AND  SCOURING. 

Steep  all  night  with  6 lbs,  of  Sumac,  pass  through 
Lime  liquor,  and  sadden  with  Copperas  as  before ; 
repeat  in  each  of  the  last  2 tubs,  adding  more  Lime 
and  Copperas  to  each,  pass  through  Logwood  and 
wash  oft*.  Both  the  last  Blacks  must  be  softened 
with  a little  Oil  and  Soda  Ash. 


J 

COTTON  DYEING. 


43 


No.  43.  FAST  BLACK. 

This  black  is  first  dyed  in  the  Copperas  vat,  and 
must  have  a good  Blue  bottom,  and  be  dyed  in  all 
respects  same  as  No.  42. 

No.  44.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST  PURPLE. 

This  color  must  have  a blue  bottom  in  the  Cop- 
peras vat,  and  afterwards  it  must  have  a few  turns 
in  a tub  of  cold  water  with  a little  Muriate  of  Tin, 
at  2°  T waddell.  In  another  tub  of  water  add  4 or 
5 lbs.  of  Logwood,  previously  spent,  enter  the  Cotton 
and  give  8 turns.  This  is  the  best  purple  that  can 
be  dyed,  possessing  a very  bright  appearance.  Light- 
er or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  or 
less  Logwood  according  to  shade. 

No.  45.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FAST 
LAVENDER. 

Lavender  shades  are  dyed  the  same  as  No.  44,  but 
are  dyed  a much  lighter  blue  in  the  vat,  and  with 
less  Logwood  in  the  filling  up.  These  are  decidedly 
the  best  shades  of  Lavender  that  can  be  dyed,  espe- 
cially for  warps  which  have  to  be  made  up  with 
white  weft ; they  will  stand  any  reasonable  quantity 
of  Acid,  and  are  much  better  for  the  Piece  Dyer. 

No.  46.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SKY  BLUE. 

The  various  shades  of  light  Blues  are  dyed  in  the 
Copperas  vat;  they  can  be  varied  almost  to  any 
shade  by  passing  them  oftener  through.  These 
shades  are  much  better  than  the  Chinese  Blues, 
which  will  not  stand  passing  through  warm  water 
without  washing  off. 


44 


COTTON  DYEING. 


No.  47.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BAKK  YELLOW. 

Boil  10  lbs.  of  Bark  in  a bag  in  a vessel  of  water 
for  fifteen  minutes ; take  out  the  bag,  and  add  to  the 
liquor  1 quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin;  cool  down,  enter 
the  cotton,  and  give  it  6 turns  sharply ; if  not  full 
enough,  take  it  out  and  add  1 gill  more  spirit. 

No.  48.  OTHEE  YELLOWS. 

Perhaps  the  Turmeric  Yellow  is  the  cheapest  of 
any,  but  it  is  not  so  permanent  as  that  dyed  with 
Bark  or  Fustic,  and  nothing  like  the  Chrome  Yellow: 
though  almost  any  shade  of  Yellow  may  be  dyed 
upon  cotton,  by  first  boiling  in  a little  water  a very 
small  quantity  of  Sulphuric  Acid,  or  a little  Alum, 
and  using  only  the  clear  liquor ; 2 or  3 lbs.  will  dye 
a fair  shade  of  yellow  upon  20  lbs.  of  Cotton. 

No.  49.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— PEACHWOOD 

BED. 

Scald  5 lbs.  of  Sumac,  and  steep  the  cotton  in  it 
all  night.  In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  about  1 quart 
of  Spirits ; give  10  turns  in  this,  and  wash ; then 
scald  5 lbs.  of  Peaehwood,  in  which  Liquor  work 
the  cotton  until  you  get  the  shade  required.  If  a 
lighter  shade  is  wanted,  add  less  Peaehwood. 

No.  50.  CEIMSONS  AND  PINKS. 

Various  shades  of  Crimsons  and  Pinks  may  be 
dyed  in  the  following  manner : First  Spirit  at  about 
6°  Twaddell,  and  then  enter  the  Peaehwood  in 
quantity  according  to  shade  required,  whether  Crim- 
son or  Pink.  This  is  the  quickest  way  they  can  be 
dyed,  except  by  adding  both  the  Spirits  and  the 
Wood  together,  which  will  answer  equally  as  well. 
After  dyeing  a good  Crimson,  a variety  of  Pinks 


COTTON  DYEING. 


45 


may  be  dyed  in  the  same  liquor,  by  giving  about  6 
or  8 turns  in  it. 

No.  51.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— CLARETS. 

For  a full  Claret,  steep  the  Cotton  in  5 lbs.  of 
Sumac  all  night,  then  Spirit  in  another  tub  at  about 
2°  Twaddell;  then  wash,  scald  3 or  4 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood, add  this  to  a tub  of  warm  water,  give  8 turns, 
lift  up,  throw  out  the  old  Liquor,  and  add  as  much 
more  Logwood ; give  8 ends  more  and  raise  in  the 
same  Liquor  with  a little  Alum.  Lighter  shades  are 
dyed  in  the  same  manner,  but  must  have  less  Wood. 
When  Redder  shades  are  required,  add  a little 
Peachwood  and  Logwood. 

No.  52.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— RUBY. 

Sumac  as  for  Claret,  and  Spirit  the  same ; then  boil 
np  6 lbs.  of  Sapanwood  in  a few  gallons  of  water ; 
strain  off  the  Liquor,  and  put  it  into  a tub  of  warm 
water ; give  10  turns  and  raise  with  a little  Alum. 

No.  53.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— PLUM  COLOR. 

Prepare  with  Sumac  and  Spirits,  as  before,  then 
boil  up  5 lbs.  of  Logwood  and  2 lbs.  of  Peachwood ; 
or  it  may  be  scalded  and  strained  into  a tub,  to 
render  the  liquor  clear  ; give  ten  ends,  and  raise  with 
a little  Alum  in  the  same  liquor ; give  6 ends,  and 
wash  off*. 

No.  54.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— MAROON. 

This  color  may  be  dyed  in  the  same  manner  as 
No.  52,  using  Peachwood  instead  of  Sapanwood. 
The  best  mode  of  dyeing  it  is  by  first  Sumacing  with 
5 lbs.  of  Sumac,  and  then  saddening  with  2 lbs.  of 
Copperas,  or  a little  Nitrate  of  Iron,  which  is  pre- 
ferable ; then  wash  and  enter  a tub  with  6 lbs.  of 


46 


COTTON  DYEING. 


Peach  wood;  give  10  turns,  lift  up,  and  add  1 pint  of 
Spirits  to  the  same  Liquor  to  raise  with ; or  raise  in 
another  tub  with  Spirits ; by  adding  a little  more 
Spirits,  the  brightest  and  fullest  Crimson  may  be 
dyed,  and  will  stand  wearing  much  better  than  some 
other  modes  of  dyeing  the  same  color. 

No.  55.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BLUE  PURPLE. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water  add  5 lbs.  of  Sumac ; steep 
in  this  all  night,  if  convenient ; then  in  another  tub 
spirit  with  1 pint  of  Spirits,  and  wash  out  of  the 
spirit  tub  ; then  enter  another  tub  with  4 or  5 lbs.  of 
Logwood,  give  8 turns,  lift  up,  add  8 ozs.  of  Tin 
Crystals,  give  8 turns  more  and  wash  off. 

No.  56.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FULL  PURPLE. 

First  Sumac,  then  sadden  with  Copperas,  wash  out 
of  the  Copperas,  then  scald  5 lbs.  of  Logwood  in 
another  tub,  and  give  10  turns ; it  will  now  be  a 
good  black,  but  must  be  raised  with  a pint  of  Spirits 
in  the  same  tub.  Purple  warps  dyed  on  this  prin- 
ciple are  very  good  and  permanent. 

No.  57.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— SAXON  BLUE. 

This  color  may  be  dyed  in  the  Copperas  vat,  but 
not  so  bright  as  with  Prussiate  of  Potash.  To  dye 
with  Prussiate  it  must  be  first  ironed  or  turned  in  a 
tub  of  cold  water  with  about  1 quart  of  Nitrate  of 
Iron  until  it  becomes  a light  buff;  it  must  then  pass 
through  weak  Ammonia  in  another  tub,  then  wash 
it;  dissolve  about  1 lb.  of  Prussiate  and  add  it  to 
another  tub  of  cold  water,  give  about  ten  turns,  then 
lift  up,  and  add  1 noggin  of  Oil  of  Vitriol  ; enter 
again,  and  give  10  turns,  and  wash  off  for  the  Stove. 
For  darker  shades  add  more  Prussiate. 


COTTON  DYEING. 


47 


No.  58.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— FLAT  ROYAL 

BLUB. 

This  color  is  first  dyed  in  the  Copperas  vat,  and 
then  dyed  in  the  same  way  as  No  57,  so  that  by 
having  a vat  bine  bottom  it  takes  less  Prussiate. 

No.  59.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— BRIGHT 
ROYAL  BLUE. 

In  the  first  tub  make  up  a decoction  of  Nitrate  of 
Iron,  at  3°  Twaddell,  about  3 pints ; give  6 turns ; 
in  another  tub  of  water  add  3 lbs.  of  dissolved  Prus- 
siate, give  6 turns,  lift  up  and  add  one  gill  of  Oil  of 
Yitriol;  give  6 turns  more.  To  the  tub  with  the 
Iron  in,  add  1 lb.  of  Tin  Crystals,  pass  through  the 
Iron  4 times,  and  through  the  Prussiate  3 times. 

No.  60.  VICTORIA  BLUE. 

This  color  is  dyed  in  most  respects  same  as  No. 
59,  but  with  this  difference,  the  Crystals  of  Tin  are 
added  to  the  Iron  at  the  beginning,  and  the  Oil  of 
Yitriol  is  not  added  until  the  last  time  in  the  Prus- 
siate. There  is  little  difference  in  these  two  blues; 
the  latter  may  be  somewhat  more  bloomy. 

No.  61.  20  lbs.  OF  COTTON.— NAPOLEON 
BLUE. 

This  is  the  most  bloomy  shade  that  has  yet  been 
produced  upon  Cotton  Fabrics  or  Cotton  Yarns.  In 
the  first  place  add  1 q«uart  of  Muriate  of  Tin  to  a 
tub  of  cold  water,  enter  the  cotton  and  give  8 turns ; 
in  another  tub  add  the  clear  liquor  from  4 lbs.  of 
Logwood,  then  add  to  another  tub  of  cold  water  2 
quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron,  and  2 lbs.  of  Crystals  of 
Tin ; enter  the  cotton  and  give  6 turns,  then  in 
another  tub  add  3 lbs.  of  melted  Prussiate;  enter 
this  and  give  6 turns,  repeat  2 or  3 times ; then  to 


48 


COTTON  DYEING. 


the  Prussiate  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  pass 
through  and  wash  off  for  the  stove. 

No.  62.  ON  BLEACHING  COTTON. 

The  Warps  or  Yarns  are  first  steeped  in  Pearlash 
Liquor,  at  boiling  point,  to  soften  the  grease  and 
dirt.  Some  Bleachers  wash  out  in  warm  Pearlash 
Liquor,  after  which  they  are  passed  through  a so- 
lution of  Chloride  of  Lime ; then  they  are  washed  in 
more  Pearlash  water.  Both  these  processes  are  re- 
peated until  the  goods  become  sufficiently  White; 
they  are  then  taken  and  boiled  in  a weak  solution 
of  Pearlash  and  White  Soap,  which  removes  all 
smell  of  the  Chlorine,  and  gives  to  the  Cotton  a 
beautiful  whiteness.  A much  readier  way  of  Bleach- 
ing is  that  of  steeping  the  cotton  as  in  the  former 
mode,  and  then  passing  it  through  Chloride  of  Lime 
and  Oil  of  Vitriol  until  it  assumes  a good  white  ap- 
pearance. Care  must  be  taken  not  to  use  too  much 
Oil  of  Vitriol,  as  that  would  have  a tendency  to  de- 
stroy the  strength  of  the  fabric. 

No.  63.  HOW  TO  SPEND  CATECHU. 

Let  it  be  well  boiled  with  1 or  2 ozs.  of  Blue  Vit- 
riol to  every  pound  of  Catechu,  and  about  10  times 
its  weight  of  water. 

No.  64.  HOW  TO  MAKE  THE  SPIRITS  FOR 
COTTON  DYEING  PURPOSES. 

Add  1 lb.  of  Aquafortis  to  five  lbs.  of  Spirits  of 
Salts,  and  kill  them  with  about  2 J ozs.  of  Tin  to  the 
pound.  The  Tin  may  be  all  added  at  first  either  in 
a bottle  or  in  a jar. 

No.  65.  ON  STEEPING. 

Warps  and  Hanks  should  be  well  wet  before  they 
are  dyed,  or  they  will  not  dye  even ; they  should  be 


COTTON  DYEING. 


49 


steeped  in  boiling  water  for  a few  hours  at  least,  or 
boiled,  if  convenient,  so  as  to  penetrate  through 
every  thread. 

No.  66.  HOW  TO  SPEND  ANNOTTA. 

It  must  be  well  boiled  with  about  1 gallon  of  water 
to  the  pound,  and  f lb.  of  Pearlashes. 

No.  67.  HOW  TO  SPEND  TUKMERIC  FOR 
COTTON  DYEING-. 

It  must  be  boiled  up  with  water,  and  much  of  the 
strength  will  bleed  out  of  it  without  acid  or  alkali ; 
but  about  8 ozs.  of  Alum  to  1 lb.  of  Turmeric  is 
generally  used.  Pearlash  will  bleed  more  strength 
out  of  it,  but  it  will  not  dye  so  bright  and  clear  a 
Yellow,  but  will  be  more  of  the  Olive  cast. 

No.  68.  HOW  TO  SPEND  SAFFLOWER. 

In  the  first  place  put  the  quantity  required  into  a 
bag,  and  steep  it  in  water  for  a few  hours  to  soften 
it;  then  it  must  be  trodden  well  and  rinsed  again  in 
the  water,  and  so  on  repeatedly  until  all  the  Yellow 
coloring  matter  is  extracted,  as  it  is  of  no  use  what- 
ever to  dyers ; then  the  flowers  will  have  a bright 
crimson  appearance,  and  must  be  put  to  steep  in  cold 
water  sufficient  to  cover  them,  and  to  every  pound 
of  flower  there  must  be  added  8 ozs.  of  Pearlash, 
previously  dissolved,  and  afterwards  well  mixed 
amongst  the  flowers  so  as  to  extract  all  the  Red 
coloring  matter  from  them;  it  will  take  a few  hours 
to  do  this ; it  must  then  be  squeezed  either  between 
the  hands  or  in  a press,  and  the  clear  liquor  used  for 
dyeing  purposes.  Alone  it  will  dye  a very  Blue 
shade  of  Pink,  but  requires  a little  Tartaric  or  Sul- 
phuric Acid  to  redden  it,  when  a Red  shade  is  re- 
quired. It  should  be  well  rubbed  before  it  is  put 
into  the  bags  to  steep  in  the  water. 


SILK  DYEING. 


■No.  1.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK. — LAVENDER. 

In  a tub  of  warm  water  at  20°,  add  1 lb.  of  Ex 
tract  of  Indigo,  4 lbs.  of  Alum,  previously  dissolved, 
and  a little  Pium  Liquor,  according  to  the  shade  of 
redness  required.  By  adding  more  Extract,  a darker 
shade  may  be  dyed,  and  a lighter  by  adding  less  of 
it.  By  varying  the  quantities  of  Extract  and  Plum 
Liquor,  all  the  various  shades  of  Lavender  may  be 
dyed. 

No.  2.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— LAVENDER,  No.  2. 

Another  mode  of  dyeing  the  foregoing  colors  is 
as  follows : First  dye  the  Silk,  at  boiling  heat,  with 
a little  Cudbear,  according  to  the  shade  of  redness 
required,  and  afterwards  make  up  a tub  of  warm 
water,  at  about  20°,  and  add  4 lbs.  of  Alum,  and  Ex- 
tract according  to  the  shade  of  blueness  it  requires. 

No.  3.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— LAVENDER. 

Make  up  a tub  of  warm  water,  at  about  20°,  add 
1 lb.  of  Extract,  and  in  the  place  of  Alum,  add  Red 
Liquor,  and  Logwood,  about  2 or  3 quarts.  The 
Logwood  must  be  boiled  up  with  the  Red  Liquor, 
about  2 lbs.  of  Logwood  to  a gallon.  Any  variety 
of  shades  may  be  dyed  in  this  way.  Another  mode 
ctf  dyeing  the  Red  shades  of  Lavender  is  by  passing 
50 


SILK  DYEING. 


51 


them  through  the  Plum  vat  when  it  is  nearly  worn 
out  for  the  Plum  colors. 

No.  4.  SPIRIT  YELLOWS. 

This  color  is  dyed  by  being  passed  through  strong 
Nitric  Acid,  and  then  through  a little  Soda  or  Soda 
ashes  in  warm  water.  This  will  produce  a good  full 
Yellow  or  light  Orange. 

No.  5.  WOLD  YELLOW. 

In  a Copper  boil  up  a bunch  of  Wold,  say  4 lbs. 
fasten  it  in  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  add  a few  ounces 
of  Pearlash,  then  put  into  another  vessel  as  much  of 
this  clear  Liquor  as  the  shade  may  require,  with 
about  4 ozs.  of  Alum.  The  Wold  Yellows  are  very 
light  bright  colors,  and  very  fast. 

No.  6.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— BARK  YELLOW. 

Boil  up  in  a bag  about  4 lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark 
either  in  a Copper  or  clean  Tub,  add  2 lbs.  of  Alum 
and  1 pint  of  Nitrate  or  Muriate  of  Tin.  This  will 
produce  a good  full  shade  of  Yellow,  and  by  adding 
more  or  less  of  Bark  and  Spirits,  any  shade  of  Yel- 
low may  be  dyed. 

No.  7.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— TURMERIC  YELLOW. 

In  a tub  scald  about  4 lbs.  of  Turmeric,  and  dye 
with  the  clear  Liquor  in  another  tub,  at  boiling 
heat,  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  use  Liquor  ac- 
cording to  shade.  Any  shade  of  Yellow,  from  the 
lightest  to  the  darkest,  may  be  dyed  from  Turmeric, 
though  it  is  very  fugitive.  Some  dyers  pass  it 
through  a little  Soda  afterwards.  It  has  a tendency 
to  soften  the  silk  and  raise  the  color. 


52 


SILK  DYEING. 


No.  8.  ORANGE  COLOR. 

In  a tub  of  boiling  Soap  Lather,  add  Annotta,  ac- 
cording to  shade,  and  turn  the  Silk  on  sharply  ; 
when  up  to  the  pattern  pass  through  cold  water  so 
that  you  may  wring  out ; wash  twice  through  cold 
water,  and  wring  up.  The  Annotta  Liquor  for  this 
color  must  be  very  strong.  To  make  the  liquor,  add 
2 lbs.  of  Annotta  to  1 gallon  of  boiling  Ash  Liquor, 
to  be  well  boiled,  so  that  every  particle  may  be  dis- 
solved, and  only  use  the  clear  liquor.  All  the 
various  shades  of  Orange  color  may  be  dyed  by 
adding  more  or  less  Annotta. 

No.  9.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

In  a tub  of  warm  water,  at  110°,  add  8 pints  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin  (or  Aqua  Fortis  killed  with  Tin),  turn 
the  Silk  in  this  Liquor  from  two  to  three  hours,  then 
wring  it  out,  and  stick  it  up  again  for  the  Cochineal. 
Scald  3J  lbs.  of  Cochineal  with  boiling  water,  that 
is,  about  8 J ozs.  of  Cochineal  to  each  pound  of  Silk, 
put  it  into  a bag,  and  fill  a tub  with  boiling  water, 
and  let  it  be  poured  through  the  bag  into  the  tub,  so 
as  to  get  all  the  strength  out  of  the  Cochineal.  Then 
enter  the  Silk,  give  a few  turns,  and  steep  in  the 
Liquor  all  night.  In  the  morning,  wring  it  out,  and 
part  the  skeins  for  blueing,  if  not  blue  enough.  Get 
a tub  of  clean  water,  and  put  a few  gallons  of  the 
Cochineal  Liquor  into  it,  which  will  prevent  the 
Silk  from  having  a black  appearance,  to  which  it  is 
subject,  and  blue  in  it ; the  more  cold  water  it  has, 
the  bluer  it  will  appear.  This  mode  of  dyeing 
Crimsons  is  the  best  that  can  be  produced,  and  if 
there  were  no  other  receipt  in  this  book,  this  is 
worth  the  price  of  it. 


SILK  DYEING. 


No.  10.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Stuff  or  dye  in  a Soap  Latber  with  Annotta,  boil- 
ing hot,  until  you  have  a good  full  Orange  bottom, 
about  the  same  as  No.  8.  Wash  well  out  of  the  An- 
notta, and  then  dye  same  as  Crimson,  see  No.  9,  only 
add  less  Cochineal ; if  a moderate  shade  is  required, 
about  2}  ozs.  to  the  pound,  but  if  a full  shade  is 
wanted,  3J  ozs.  to  the  pound. 

No.  11.  SKY  BLUES  FROM  EXTRACT. 

In  the  first  place,  dissolve  the  quantity  of  Extract 
required  in  warm  water,  and  then  put  in  a quantity 
of  wool,  which  will  take  up  or  absorb  the  Extract  ; 
afterwards  put  the  wool  into  another  vessel,  and  add 
a little  Pearlashes  to  discharge  the  Extract  from  the 
wool  again,  and  put  the  Silk  on  the  same  liquor. 
By  this  means  the  color  will  be  much  brighter  than 
if  the  Extract  was  put  upon  the  Silk  without  being 
put  upon  the  wool.  It  must  then  be  washed  off  in  a 
little  warm  water  with  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol . If  the 
color  is  not  sufficiently  bloomy,  pass  it  through  a 
little  liquid  Archil  in  warm  water.  This  will  put  a 
bright  bloomy  appearance  upon  it.  When  the  color 
is  not  required  to  be  very  bright,  the  Extract  may 
be  put  upon  the  Silk  with  a little  Alum,  at  about 
100°. 

No.  12.  SKY  BLUES  FROM  PRUSSIATE. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water  add  Nitrate  of  Iron  until 
it  stands  at  about  1°  Twaddell ; give  the  silk  a few 
turns,  then  pass  it  through  weak  Ammonia  Liquor, 
say  about  a pint  to  30  gallons.  In  another  tub  add 
Prussiate  Liquor  according  to  shade  required  ; one 
ounce  to  the  pound  will  make  a fine  light  Blue;  if 
a darker  shade  is  required,  more  Prussiate  must  be 

5* 


54 


SILK  DYEING. 


added.  After  giving  a few  turns  lift  up  and  add 
about  a Noggin  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  put  down  again 
and  give  a few  more  turns,  and  wash  off. 

No.  13  A.  10  lbs.  OF  BLUE.— MAZARINE 
BLUE. 

In  a copper  or  tub  at  boil,  add  6 lbs.  of  Liquid 
Archil ; give  a few  turns  and  then  pass  through  the 
Indigo  vat.  Either  the  Copperas  or  Woad  vat  will 
answer,  but  the  W oad  vat  is  preferable. 

No.  18  B.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FRENCH  BLUE 

Give  6 turns  in  a tub  of  cold  water  with  Nitrate 
of  Iron  at  6°  Twaddell,  then  steep  the  silk  in  the 
same  liquor  for  about  40  minutes,  wring  out  and 
wash  well;  then  give  12  turns  in  common  Soda 
water,  say  1 lb.  of  it  in  24  gallons  of  water  at  120°  ; 
wring  out,  and,  without  washing,  enter  the  Prussiate, 
1J  lb.  in  30  gallons  of  water,  to  which  add  1 quart 
of  Spirits  of  Salts  (Muriatic  Acid),  and  give  10  turns ; 
then  lift  up  and  add  1 quart  more  Salts,  give  10  turns 
more  and  wash  out.  In  this  state  the  silk  will  ap- 
pear a very  dull  color;  it  must  then  be  passed 
through  weak  Ammonia  Liquor.  To  30  gallons  of 
water  at  20°  add  1 gill  of  Ammonia,  give  6 turns, 
then  dry  it  sharply.  By  passing  it  through  this  it 
will  be  raised  to  a very  dark  bloomy  Blue,  something 
like  the  Mazarine. 

No.  14.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

Make  up  a tub  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  at  6°,  to  which 
add  1 pint  of  good  Muriate  of  Tin  and  4 ozs.  of  Tar- 
taric Acid;  turn  it  in  this  for  about  1 hour.  In 
another  tub  add  1|  lb.  of  dissolved  Prussiate  and 
1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  wash  out  of  the  Iron  tub  and 
enter  the  Prussiate  tub,  repeat  in  the  Iron  twice  and 


SILK  DYEING. 


once  in  Prussiate,  wash  out  of  the  Iron.  In  another 
tub  add  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol  until  it  tastes  sour  ; 
give  6 turns  in  this  to  clear  off  any  rust  that  may 
adhere  to  it.  More  Prussiate  will  produce  a darker 
color,  and  less  a lighter,  but  the  same  quantity  of 
Iron  and  Tin  must  be  used. 

No.  15.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Steep  in  Nitrate  of  Iron  at  4°,  for  about  1 hour ; 
wring  out  and  wash  it.  Make  up  a tub  at  about 
120°,  add  the  clear  Liquor  from  Logwood  previously 
scalded,  about  the  same  weight  as  the  silk,  and  a 
pailful  of  melted  Soap  to  keep  up  a lather  ; give  12 
turns ; if  not  dark  enough  add  a-little  more  Logwood. 

No.  16.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— COMMON  FULL 
BLACK. 

Steep  in  Nitrate  of  Iron  at  4°  for  about  one  hour ; 
after  giving  the  Silk  a few  turns,  wring  out  and  wash 
well  in  a tub  of  warm  water  at  about  120° ; add  15 
lbs.  of  Logwood,  scalded,  and  add  only  the  clear 
liquor  and  5 lbs.  of  scalded  Fustic,  and  a little 
melted  Soap.  If  the  color  is  not  flat  enough,  add  a 
little  more  Fustic  Liquor,  and  if  not  dark  enough,, 
add  more  Logwood. 

No.  17.  BROWNS  OF  DIFFERENT  SHADES. 

For  a good  light  Brown,  stuff  with  Annotta  liquor 
in  a Soap  lather  up  to  a good  orange  in  boiling  water ; 
after  this  wash  well  and  sadden  in  a weak  Copperas 
liquor,  cold  ; let  the  Copperas  liquor  be  very  clear ; 
then  wash  off  and  dye  with  Fustic  and  Archil.  All 
the  light  shades  of  Browns  may  be  dyed  after  this 
manner.  When  a rather  darker  shade  is  required, 
sadden  rather  stronger.  The  yellowness  of  the  color 


56 


SILK  DYEING. 


must  be  regulated  with  tbe  Fustic,  and  the  redness 
with  the  Archil,  according  to  the  shade  required. 

No.  18.  DARK  BROWNS  OF  DIFFERENT 
SHADES. 

Stuff  with  Annotta  in  boiling  water  until  you  ob- 
tain a full  Orange.  Sadden  with  stronger  Copperas 
Liquor,  and  then  dye  with  Fustic,  Archil,  and  Log- 
wood. Any  shade  required  in  Browns  may  be 
dyed  after  this  manner,  but  it  is  impossible  to  point 
out  every  tinge  and  hue,  as  in  Browns  they  are  so 
varied.  The  Fustic  produces  the  Yellow  part  of  the 
color,  the  Archil  the  Red  part,  and  the  Logwood  the 
darkness,  or  the  Blue  part,  after  the  Copperas  or 
saddening. 

No.  19.  CALIFORNIA  BROWNS  AND  OLIYE. 

Another*  mode  of  dyeing  Browns.  Put  on  a 
strong  Annotta  bottom,  as  in  the  other  Browns,  at 
boiling  point,  and  wash  well  out  of  it ; then  scald 
Fustic,  and  add  the  clear  Liquor  according  to  shade, 
and  a little  Sumac  Liquor  along  with  it.  Then 
sadden  in  cold  water  with  a little  Argol  and  Cop- 
peras Liquor,  and  when  the  shade  is  wanted  of  a 
very  Olive  cast,  add  a little  Turmeric  with  the  Fustic. 
All  the  bright  colors  in  Snuff  Brown,  California 
colors,  and  light  Olive,  are  dyed  according  to  this 
receipt.  The  darkness  of  the  color  must  be  regu- 
lated by  the  Sumac  and  Copperas. 

No.  20.  RED  OR  CLARET  BROWN. 

This  class  of  colors  is  dyed  with  Annotta  bottoms, 
as  before,  and  then  passed  through  the  Plum  vat. 
They  are  perhaps  the  richest  Browns  that  can  be 
produced,  and  are  dyed  better  by  this  means  than  by 
any  other.  But  for  the  information  of  those  who 


SILK  DYEING. 


57 


are  desirous  of  understanding  the  different  modes  of 
dyeing  the  same  color  by  different  ingredients,  and 
in  different  modes,  I will  next  insert  another  mode 
of  dyeing  the  Red  Browns. 

No.  21.  ANOTHER  MODE  OF  DYEINO  RED 
BROWNS. 

First  steep  the  Silk  in  Alum,  at  about  6°  T wad- 
dell,  for  about  one  hour,  then  wash  it  well  in  cold 
water ; scald  Logwood,  Peach  wood,  and  Fustic  sepa- 
rately, and  use  the  clear  Liquor.  The  Logwood 
must  be  used  very  sparingly,  as  it  will  darken  very 
fast.  The  Peachwood  must  be  the  strongest,  and 
Fustic  in  a moderate  way,  as  6 parts  of  Peachwood, 
4 parts  of  Fustic,  1 part  of  Logwood,  using  quantity 
according  to  shade  required,  at  about  140°.  From 
the  lightest  to  the  darkest  shades  may  be  dyed  after 
this  manner.  These  Browns  are  dyed  sooner  and 
cheaper  than  the  saddened  Browns,  bat  are  not  so 
permanent. 

No.  22.  SOUR  BROWNS. 

Almost  any  shade  of  Brown  may  be  dyed  in  the 
following  manner,  and  by  varying  the  ingredients 
according  to  shade  required : Dye  with  Camwood, 
Chemic,  and  Acid. 

No.  23.  LIGHT  CLARET  BROWN. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Camwood ; to  each  pound  of 
Silk  add  Oil  of  Vitriol  and  a little  Red  Argol  for 
the  sour ; boil  one  hour  in  a clean  copper,  and  then 
sadden  with  a little  Chemic. 

No.  24.  DARK  CLARET  BROWNS. 

Stuff  with  3 lbs.  of  Camwood  to  each  lb.  of  Silk, 
add  a little  Argol  and  Oil  of  Vitriol  for  the  Acid, 


58 


SILK  DYEING. 


boil  an  hour  and  a half,  and  wash  it  well  out  of  this 
liquor,  and  sadden  in  cold  water  with  Copperas 
liquor.  The  Camwood  must  be  boiled  in  bags. 

No.  25.  CLARETS  AND  CHOCOLATES. 

Steep  in  Alum,  at  6°  Twaddell,  for  about  one 
hour,  wash  well  out,  and  then  dye  with  Peachwood 
and  Logwood,  according  to  shade ; if  a Claret,  use 
very  little  Logwood,  and  if  a Chocolate,  use  a little 
more,  but  most  Peachwood,  in  all  cases.  Dye  at 
about  160°.  All  the  various  shades  of  Claret  and 
Chocolate  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  or  less  of 
the  two  ingredients,  Peachwood  and  Logwood. 

No.  26.  ANOTHER  MODE  OF  DYEING 
CLARETS  AND  CHOCOLATES. 

Boil  with  Alum  and  Peachwood  together,  and  then 
finish  in  another  vessel  with  Logwood,  according  to 
the  darkness  required.  The  body  of  color  in  this 
mode  of  dyeing  is  put  on  in  the  boiling,  and  the 
Logwood  is  used  to  blue  and  darken  the  same. 

No.  27.  MOCK  CRIMSONS,  DYED 
DIFFERENT  WAYS. 

These  colors  are  dyed  by  first  boiling  in  Alum, 
and  are  then  finished  with  Peachwood  Liquor  and  a 
little  Muriate  of  Tin,  at  boiling  point.  Another 
mode  is  by  steeping  the  Silk  in  Alum  for  a few 
hours,  and  then  dyeing  at  the  boiling  point  with 
Peachwood  only.  But  the  best  and  readiest  mode 
is  by  dyeing  it  off  at  once  with  Peachwood  Liquor 
and  Muriate  of  Tin,  as  either  light  or  dark  shades 
may  be  dyed  by  adding  Peachwood  according  to 
shade  required.  These  are  all  different  from  the 
Crimson  Vat  colors. 


SILK  DYEING. 


59 


No.  28.  OLIVE. 

In  the  first  place,  sadden  the  Silk  with  Copperas 
Liquor,  wash  out,  and  dye  with  Fustic,  moderately 
strong,  at  boiling  heat.  Darken  with  Logwood,  blue 
with  Chemic,  and  when  to  pattern,  wash  off  in  cold 
water,  with  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol  to  preserve  the 
Chemic.  Lighter  and  darker  shades  may  be  dyed 
by  varying  the  quantity  of  Logwood. 

No.  29.  PUKPLES. 

A variety  of  Purples  may  be  dyed  by  first  steep- 
ing the  Silk  in  Alum,  and  afterwards  dyeing  with 
Logwood  and  Oxalic  Acid. 

No.  80.  MAROONS. 

Various  shades  of  Maroons  may  be  dyed  with 
Lima  Peachwood,  Muriate  of  Tin,  and  Alum,  at 
boiling  point. 

No.  31.  MAROONS,  ANOTHER  WAY. 

Dye  with  Cudbear,  at  boiling  heat,  and  add  a little 
Young  Fustic  and  Muriate  of  Tin.  Any  shade  of 
Maroon  may  be  dyed  by  adding  or  diminishing  the 
Cudbear,  according  to  the  shade  required. 

No.  32.  RUBY. 

The  Ruby  is  dyed  from  Cudbear  alone ; it  will 
produce  a fine  color  of  itself.  When  a Blue  shade 
is  required,  add  a little  Ammonia,  and  when  a Red 
shade  is  required,  add  a little  Muriate  of  Tin. 

No.  33.  DAUNCE  BLACK. 

Give  10  turns  in  Nitrate  of  Iron  at  4°,  then  fill 
up  with  Prussiate,  about  2 ozs.  to  the  pound,  repeat 
twice,  wash  out  of  the  Iron,  and  sadden  with  Cop- 


60 


SILK  DYEING. 


peras.  If  a darker  shade  is  required,  pass  through 
a little  Logwood.  This  color  is  dyed  with  a Blue 
bottom,  so  that  it  may  not  be  discharged  or  spotted 
with  Acid  as  Blacks  are  generally  subject  to  be. 

No.  34.  YIOLET. 

A variety  of  shades  of  this  color  may  be  dyed  by 
first  steeping  the  Silk  in  Alum,  and  then  dyeing 
with  a little  Cudbear  and  Logwood,  according  to 
shade.  If  a very  Blue  shade  is  required,  add  a little 
Ammonia,  and  if  a Red  shade  is  required,  add  a little 
Alum  with  the  Cudbear.  Clean  cold  water  will  blue 
this  class  of  colors.  The  Yiolets  are  not  all  dyed  in 
this  manner : some  are  dyed  in  a Plum  Yat. 

No.  35.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— LIGHT  GREEN. 

In  a tub  of  cold  water,  add  6 lbs.  of  dissolved 
Alum,  give  the  Silk  a few  turns,  steep  it  in  the  same 
Liquor  all  night,  and  wash  it  out  next  morning. 
Boil  up  10  lbs.  of  Chipped  Ebony  Wood,  put  the 
clear  Liquor  into  another  tub  of  water  at  100°,  give 
6 turns,  lift  up,  and  add  about  1 gill  of  Extract  of 
Indigo,  or  more,  according  to  shade  required. 

No.  36.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— MIDDLE  GREEN. 

Steep  in  Alum  for  about  twelve  hours,  same  as 
No.  36 ; wash  out  of  the  Alum,  boil  up  20  lbs.  of 
Fustic,  and  use  the  clear  Liquor,  at  about  120°; 
give  10  turns,  then  lift  up,  and  add  Extract  accord- 
ing to  shade  required.  If  a Yellower  shade  is  re- 
quired, add  more  Fustic,  or  a little  Turmeric  Liquor. 

No.  37.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— DARK  GREEN. 

Steep  the  Silk  same  as  in  the  last  Receipt,  and  dye 
in  a tub  of  water,  at  about  120°,  with  Fustic  or 
Turmeric  Liquor,  and  Extract  according  to  shade. 


SILK  DYEING. 


61 


No.  38.  BOTTLE  GREEN. 

The  Bottle  Green  and  Dark  Olive  shades  are  dyed 
in  all  respects  the  same  as  the  foregoing  Greens,  but 
must  be  passed  through  Copperas  Liquor,  and  then 
in  another  tub  of  lukewarm  water  add  a little  Log- 
wood Liquor. 

No.  39.  OTHER  GREENS  OF  DIFFERENT 
SHADES. 

In  a tub  of  water,  at  140°,  add  about  4 lbs.  of 
Alum  and  Fustic  Liquor,  Extract,  and  Chemic  ac- 
cording to  shade.  Dye  off  in  this,  and  when  accord- 
ing to  pattern,  wash  in  cold  water,  to  which  add  a 
little  Oil  of  Vitriol  to  keep  the  Blue  on  the  Silk. 
By  this  mode  of  dyeing  Greens,  all  the  various 
shades  may  be  got,  and  any  tinge  or  hue,  by  adding 
Fustic  or  Turmeric  Liquor  according  to  tint  required. 
It  is  a readier  mode  of  dyeing  the  Greens,  and  equally 
as  good. 

No.  40.  FAST  GREENS  WITH  A BLUE 
BOTTOM. 

First  pass  the  silk  through  the  Copperas  vat,  and 
put  on  the  body  of  blue  required  for  the  shade ; then 
dye  at  boiling  heat  with  Fustic,  according  to  shade 
required,  with  a little  Alum  for  the  sour  to  work  on 
the  Fustic.  When  an  Olive  shade  is  required,  add  a 
little  Turmeric.  All  shades  of  middle  and  dark 
Green  may  be  dyed  after  this  receipt,  and  the  colors 
dyed  in  this  way  are  not  so  soon  stained  as  the  other  ; 
they  are  also  more  durable  by  having  a vat  bottom. 

No.  41.  LIGHT  OLIVES,  OF  DIFFERENT 
SHADES. 

This  class  of  colors  is  the  best  with  a light  Blue 
bottom,  and  dyed  off,  at  the  boiling  point,  with  Tur- 
6 


62 


SILK  DYEING. 


meric  Liquor  and  a little  Archil.  When  the  Green 
shade  is  required,  add  a little  Turmeric  only,  and 
when  a Bedder  shade  is  required,  add  a little  Archil 
also.  Some  of  the  finest  colors  may  be  produced 
after  this  manner.  The  bright  Acanthuses,  Ottoman 
Leaves,  and  bronzes  are  dyed  in  this  way. 

No.  42.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FLESH  COLOB  OB 
BUFF. 

Make  up  a tub,  at  boiling  point,  with  a little  White 
Soap,  4 ozs.  of  Pearlash,  and  2 quarts  of  Annotta 
Liquor ; enter  the  Silk,  and  turn  on  until  it  be  dyed 
to  pattern.  Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed 
by  adding  more  or  less  Annotta  Liquor. 

No.  43.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— SALMON. 

This  color  is  dyed  the  same  as  flesh  color,  but 
must  be  passed  through  a little  Muriate  of  Tin  in  a 
tub  of  warm  water  afterwards,  in  order  to  raise  the 
Bedness  of  the  color. 

No.  44.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— GOLD  COLOB. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a Soap  lather,  with  Annotta 
according  to  shade  required.  If  a full  shade  is  re- 
quired a full  shade  of  Annotta  color  must  be  put 
upon  the  Silk,  and  if  lighter  shades  are  required,  a 
lighter  bottom  must  be  put  on.  After  which,  boil 
up  4 lbs.  of  Bark  with  1 quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin ; 
the  Bark  must  be  put  into  a bag.  Cool  the  vessel 
down  a little,  enter  the  Silk,  and  turn  it  for  about 
twenty  minutes.  If  it  is  not  Yellow  enough,  take 
out  the  Silk  and  put  it  in  the  bag  with  1 pint  more 
of  Tin  Spirits ; boil  in  a little  and  then  enter  the 
Silk  again. 


SILK  DYEING. 


63 


No.  45.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— YELLOW  FAWN 
DRAB. 

To  a tub  of  warm  water  add  1 quart  of  Annotta 
Liquor,  1 lb.  to  a gallon  of  water,  and  8 ozs.  of 
Pear  lash ; to  this  add  2 lbs.  of  scalded  Fustic  and 
8 ozs.  of  Sumac ; enter,  give  ten  turns,  lift  up,  and 
throw  out  a few  pailfuls  of  the  Liquor;  dissolve 
8 ozs.  of  Argol  and  2 lbs.  of  Copperas  in  1 gallon 
of  water ; add  1 quart  of  this  to  the  liquor,  and  if 
not  flat  enough  add  more  of  it. 

No.  46.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FAWN  DRAB. 

To  a tub  of  warm  water  add  1 pint  of  Annotta 
Liquor,  1 lb.  of  Sumac,  and  1 lb.  of  Fustic ; and 
sadden  down  with  Copperas  Liquor  according  to 
shade. 

No.  47.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK.— FLAT  DRAB. 

To  a tub  of  warm  water  add  1 gill  of  Annotta, 
1 lb.  of  Fustic,  1J  lb.  of  Sumac,  and  sadden  in  an- 
other tub  of  cold  water  with  Copperas  Liquor,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  of  deadness  required. 

No.  48.  HEAVY  DRABS. 

Dye  in  a killed  Liquor,  at  about  100°,  with  a little 
Fustic  Liquor,  a little  Archil,  and  a little  Chemic. 
Any  shade  of  Drabs  of  a heavy,  flat,  or  dark  ap- 
pearance may  be  dyed  in  this  way,  from  these  ingre- 
dients. The  Liquor  is  said  to  be  killed,  when  a 
quantity  of  Copperas  Liquor  is  poured  into  it.  For 
these  shades  it  requires  about  J a noggin  to  10  lbs. 
of  Silk. 

No.  49.  SLATE  DRAB. 

Dye  in  killed  Liquor  with  a little  Fustic  Liquor, 
add  a little  Logwood  Liquor ; if  not  Blue  enough, 
add  a little  Chemie. 


64 


SILK  DYEING. 


No.  50.  10  lbs.  OF  SILK. -BRONZE  DRAB. 

In  a tub  of  warm  water,  at  100°,  add  1 lb.  of 
Fustic  and  6 ozs.  of  Archil,  and  then  sadden  with 
Copperas  Liquor. 

These  shades  of  Drab  are  all  very  distinct,  the 
last  three  especially.  Perhaps  there  is  as  much 
difference  in  the  shades  as  is  possible  to  be  made  in 
Drabs  ; but  all  the  varieties  of  shades  that  come  be- 
tween these,  may  be  dyed  according. to  the  preceding 
Receipts,  which  is  the  way  that  most  Drabs  are  dyed. 
I will  now  give  a few  Receipts  of  another  mode  of 
dyeing  Fawns  by  means  of  Acid  instead  of  a killed 
Liquor.  Almost  all  Silk  requires  to  be  passed 
through  a mode  of  softening,  as  it  is  called  by  Silk 
Dyers.  It  is  made  as  follows  : Add  2 lbs.  of  Sweet 
Oil  to  1 lb.  of  Sulphuric  Acid  (Oil  of  Yitriol),  and 
stir  it  quickly  when  mixing.  This  will  form  a sort 
of  paste,  which  will  mix  with  water,  not  floating  on 
the  top  like  Oil.  A little  of  this  must  be  added  to 
a tub  of  cold  water,  and  the  Silk  passed  through  it, 
which  will  give  it  a very  smooth  finish,  and  cause  it 
to  spin  much  better  than  it  otherwise  would. 

No.  51.  ANOTHER  MODE  OF  DYEING 
DRABS. 

A great  variety  of  Drabs  may  be  dyed,  at  boiling 
heat,  with  a little  Oil  of  Yitriol  for  the  sour,  and  a 
little  Argol.  Many  of  the  Fawn  shades  would  re- 
quire only  a little  liquid  Archil  and  Madder  Liquor, 
less  or  more,  according  to  shade.  Some  of  the 
brightest  colors  of  light  Fawns  may  be  dyed  in  this 
manner ; and  by  adding  a little  Chemic  to  flatten  or 
sadden  with,  a still  greater  variety  may  be  dyed. 
The  colors  dyed  in  this  manner  are  firmer  and  less 
liable  to  stain  than  those  dyed  in  a killed  Liquor. 


SILK  DYEING. 


65 


No.  52.  SOUR  BROWNS. 

A great  variety  of  Browns  may  be  dyed  with  acid, 
using  Camwood  for  the  red  part  of  the  color,  Tur- 
meric for  the  Yellow  part,  and  then  sadden  with 
Copperas  in  another  vessel,  cold.  After  a good  body 
of  Camwood  is  got  upon  the  Silk  it  may  be  saddened 
down  to  either  a light  or  a dark  shade. 

No.  53.  FRENCH  WHITE. 

This  color  is  first  bleached,  and  then  dyed  with 
Archil  and  Chemic.  Make  up  a tub  at  about  160°, 
to  which  add  a little  liquid  Archil,  and  either  a little 
Chemic  or  Extract,  with  a pailful  of  Soap  Lather. 
This  will  put  down  the  Yellowness  of  Color,  and  raise 
it  to  a fine  clear  white.  Be  careful  not  to  add  too 
much  of  either  Archil  or  Chemic,  as  it  requires  very 
little.  Another  mode  of  dyeing  a White  is  by  strov- 
ing  it  with  Sulphur. 

No.  54.  PINKS  FROM  SAFFLOWER. 

The  Safflower  for  Light  Pinks  is  first  put  upon 
cotton,  and  then  discharged  from  the  cotton,  and  then 
put  upon  the  silk,  in  the  following  manner : the  saf- 
flower is  spent  with  Pearlashes  in  the  usual  way, 
and  the  Liquor  put  into  a vessel  with  water,  and  then 
a quantity  of  either  Cotton  Yarns  or  Cotton  Wool 
steeped  in  the  Liquor  so  as  to  take  up  the  strength 
of  it.  The  Cotton  must  then  be  put  into  another 
vessel  of  clean  water,  with  a portion  of  Pearlashes, 
which  will  discharge  the  strength  of  the  Safflower 
from  the  cotton,  and  clear  it  from  all  dirt.  The  Silk 
must  then  be  dyed  in  the  same  Liquor  with  a little 
Oil  of  Yitriol.  The  whole  of  this  process  must  be 
cold.  By  this  means  the  color  will  be  clear  and 
bright. 


6* 


66 


SILK  DYEING. 


No.  55.  PINKS  FROM  PEACHWOOD. 

» 

This  color  may  be  dyed  either  by  being  passed 
through  the  Crimson  Yat,  or  by  first  steeping  the 
Silk  in  Alum,  and  then  dyeing  it  with  Peachwood, 
at  boiling  heat ; by  using  a little  Muriate  of  Tin  the 
color  will  be  much  brighter. 

No.  56.  GRAIN  PINKS. 

This  class  of  Pinks  may  be  dyed  in  various  ways. 
One  manner  is,  first  pass  the  Silk  through  Red  Liquor, 
and  then  dye,  at  boiling  heat,  with  the  clear  Liquor 
from  scalded  Cochineal.  Another  mode  is,  first  steep 
it  in  Alum,  and  dye  same  as  when  passed  through 
Red  Liquor.  And  another  mode  is  by  dyeing  it  the 
same  as  dyeing  Grain  Crimson,  only  using  much 
less  Cochineal. 

No.  57.  MOCK  SCARLET. 

Get  a good  Annotta  bottom  on,  the  same  as  for 
the  other  Scarlet,  until  it  appears  a good  Orange, 
then  wash,  and  spend  about  4 or  5 lbs.  of  Peachwood 
to  10  lbs.  of  Silk : add  the  clear  Liquor  to  a tub  of 
hot  water,  give  10  turns,  and  then  pass  through  the 
Crimson  Yat.  Another  mode  is  to  dye  it,  at  boiling 
heat,  with  Peachwood  Liquor  and  Muriate  of  Tin  ; 
after  the  Annotta,  Orange  is  put  on  it  as  in  the  other 
mode. 

No.  58.  REAL  PARIS  BLACKS. 

In  a tub  of  water,  at  180°,  made  up  with  8 parts 
of  Fustic,  and  1 part  of  Bark  Liquor,  add  2 ozs.  of 
Yerdigris,  and  1 oz.  of  Copperas  to  every  pound  of 
Silk.  Steep  the  Silk  in  this  all  night,  after  giving 
it  a few  turns.  In  the  morning,  wring  out,  and  wash 
well  twice  over.  Then  make  the  Silk  up  for  dyeing 


SILK  DYEING. 


67 


in  a Logwood  Liquor,  at  150°.  This  must  be  dyed 
in  a Soap  Lather.  If  the  shade  required  be  a dark 
one,  much  Logwood  must  be  used  ; if  it  has  a Green 
appearance,  use  more  Logwood,  and  when  dark 
enough  wash  twice  over.  Then  stick  up  the  Silk 
for  softening  in  warm  water.  The  softening  must 
be  a little  Soda  and  Neatsfoot  Oil.  This  is  the  best 
Black  that  can  be  dyed. 

No.  59.  NAPOLEON  BLUE,  AND  HOW  TO 
MAKE  THE  SPIRITS  FOR  THE  SAME. 

Into  a tub  put  100  lbs.  of  Spirits  of  Salts  (Muri- 
atic Acid),  to  which  add  7 lbs.  of  Feathered  Tin  ; put 
the  Jar  into  boiling  water,  and  keep  up  the  heat 
until  the  tin  be  all  eaten  away.  Into  another  jar 
about  the  same  size  put  the  same  quantity  of  Spirits 
of  Salts,  to  which  add  Iron  filings  until  it  will  eat  no 
more  (it  will  be  continually  eating  for  two  or  three 
days,  and  will  require  to  be  kept  warm  all  the  time), 
and  after  settling,  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  This  is 
the  real  Muriate  of  Iron,  the  former  the  real  Muriate 
of  Tin.  Some  prefer  Nitrate  of  Iron  to  Muriate  of 
Iron,  which  may  be  made  as  follows  : Into  a jar  of 
about  the  same  size  put  about  the  same  quantity  of 
Aquafortis  (Nitric  Acid),  at  about  20°  Twaddell,  to 
which  add  Iron  filings  as  in  the  other  Spirits,  until 
it  will  eat  no  more;  add  only  a little  of  it  at  once, 
as  it  is  subject  to  boil  over  when  too  much  is  added 
at  a time ; it  will  not  require  heat  as  the  other  Spirit. 
These  are  the  Spirits  to  be  used  in  proportion  as 
follows : Into  a half-pipe  tub  of  cold  water,  add  2 
quarts  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
Muriate  or  Nitrate  of  Iron,  and  1 lb.  of  Tartaric 
Acid.  This  is  the  Mordant  for  the  Silk.  In  another 
tub  of  the  same  size,  add  6 lbs.  of  Alum,  previously 
dissolved.  Then  add  2 ozs.  of  the  Red  Prussiate  of 


08 


SILK  DYEING. 


Potash  to  every  lb.  of  Silk  to  be  dyed.  In  this  give 
the  Silk  10  turns  ; the  Liquor  must  be  at  about  100° 
then  slightly  wash,  enter  the  Mordant  tub,  give  10 
turns,  wring  out,  wash  it  again  and  repeat  in  each 
until  you  get  the  shade  required.  It  may  require  5 
or  6 rounds,  or  more,  according  to  the  darkness  of 
the  color.  This  will  dye  a good  color ; if  a Bluer 
shade  is  required,  add  more  of  the  Nitrate  or  Muri- 
ate of  Iron,  and  less  of  Muriate  of  Tin  ; and  if  a 
Redder  shade  is  required,  add  more  of  the  Muriate  of 
Tin,  and  less  of  the  Nitrate  or  Muriate  of  Iron  for  the 
Mordant.  The  Yellow  Prussiate  of  Potash  will  pro- 
duce nearly  the  same  shade  of  color,  with  the  same 
weight  of  it  as  of  the  Red.  The  Silk  must  pass  through 
the  Mordant  the  last,  and  not  through  the  Prussiate; 
after  which  it  must  be  washed  out  and  put  to  soak 
in  Fuller’s  earth  for  a few  hours;  then  wash  it  out 
of  the  earth,  and  pass  it  through  the  Mordant  again 
with  about  10  turns  more ; then  wring  it  out,  not 
wash  it,  ready  for  getting  up.  In  another  tub  of 
cold  water  add  a little  Tartaric  Acid,  sufficient  to 
keep  the  color  ; to  a spoonful  of  the  best  Oil,  add  the 
least  drop  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  put  this  into  the  tub,  and 
give  the  Silk  a few  turns,  and  then  wring  it  out. 
If  the  Silk  does  not  appear  dark  enough,  dry  it  hot, 
but  if  dark  enough,  dry  it  cool. 

This  is  for  the  first  day’s  work,  the  second  will 
not  require  so  many  dye-wares.  For  the  next  day’s 
work,  only  add  about  one  half  of  the  Spirits  of  each 
kind,  and  for  the  Mordant,  much  of  the  strength  of 
the  other  will  be  left  in  the  tub.  Take  the  clear 
liquor  from  the  Prussiate  tub  and  throw  down  the 
sediment,  and  add  only  Ifoz.  of  Prussiate  to  the 
pound  of  Silk  in  the  place  of  2 ozs. ; heat  up  100° 
and  add  about  the  same  quantity  of  Alum  as  before, 
and  dye  in  all  respects  the  same  as  the  previous  day. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  1.  20  BUNCHES  44s.— PEA  GKEEN, 
YEKY  FINE  SHADE. 

Dye  at  boiling  beat  with  2 lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs. 
of  Wold — 8 ozs.  of  Liquid  Extract — 1 lb.  of  Brown 
Tartar — and  1 gill  of  Spirits.  Flatter  Greens  about 
the  same  shades  may  be  dyed  without  Spirit  and 
Wolds,  by  using  Fustic  in  the  place  of  both;  but 
the  color  will  not  be  anything  like  the  same  in  point 
of  brightness. 

No.  2.  6 GROSS  OF  30s.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  with  4 ozs.  of  Logwood — 1 oz.  of  Cudbear — • 
and  4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

No.  3.  16  BUNCHES  36s.— CALIFORNIA 
COLOR. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder — 2 lbs.  of  Cam- 
wood— 2 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 ozs.  of  Alum — 1 lb.  of 
Copperas. 

No.  4.  24  BUNCHES.— BRIGHT  VICUNA. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder — 2 lbs.  of  Fustic 
— 2 ozs.  of  Alum — and  2 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  5.  10  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  FIERY 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 \ lbs.  of  Camwood  — 
3 lbs.  of  Madder — 8 ozs.  of  Copperas. 


69 


70 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  6.  6 GROSS  82s.— MIDDLE  OLIVE. 

Dye  with  16  lbs.  of  Camwood — 12  lbs.  of  Fustic — 
10  lbs.  of  Mull  Madder — 12  ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  7.  5 GROSS  32s.— RED  LAVENDER. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Logwood — 8 ozs.  of  Cudbear 
— and  2 ozs.  of  Alum. 

No.  8.  6 GROSS  30s.— RED  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Logwood — 4 ozs.  of  Cudbear — 
and  4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

No.  9.  12  BUNCHES.— RUBY. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Cudbear — If  a Blue  shade 
is  required,  add  1 gill  of  Ammonia,  and  if  a Red 
shade,  add  1 tot  of  Spirits. 

No.  10.  24  BUNCHES.— WINE  COLOR. 

Boil  it  20  minutes  with  four  ozs.  of  Chrome,  and 
finish  it  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear,  and 
4 ozs.  of  Logwood.  This  boiling  with  Chrome  is 
called  Chroming. 

No.  11.  24  BUNCHES.— FINE  CLARET. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10 — Finish  with  2 lbs.  of 
Cudbear — 6 lbs.  of  Lima  Peachwood. 

No.  12.  6 GROSS  32s.— YELLOW  BROWN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Camwood — 10  lbs.  of  Fustic. 
8 lbs.  of  Madder — 8 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  13.  24  BUNCHES,  SPUN  TO  18  OUNCES— 
MIDDLE  GREEN. 

Dye  to  middle  shade  of  Blue  in  the  Vat,  and  fill 
up  with  6 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 1 tot 
of  Chemic. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


71 


No.  14.  6 GROSS  32s.— GOOD  BROWN. 

Dye  with  20  Jbs.  of  Camwood — 10  lbs.  of  Mad- 
der— 10  lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  15.  5 GROSS  32s.— DARK  PURPLE. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — Fill 
up  with  13  lbs.  of  Logwood — To  dye  the  shade 
another  way — Chrome  the  same  as  No.  10 — Finish 
with  2 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 1 lbs.  of  Logwood. 

No.  16.  20  BUNCHES.— SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Alum — 6 lbs.  Fustic — 1 gill  of 
Extract. 

No.  17.  24  BUNCHES.— DARK  BROWN. 

Dye  with  6 lbs  of  Camwood — 12  ozs.  of  Crop 
Madder — 1 lb.  of  Mull  Madder — 1 lb.  of  Fustic — - 
4 ozs.  of  Logwood — and  2 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  18.  4 GROSS  32s.— DARK  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Fustic — 8 ozs.  of  Logwood — - 
8 ozs.  of  Madder — 4 ozs.  of  Camwood — And  3 ozs. 
of  Copperas. 

No.  19.  20  BUNCHES  36s.— MAROON. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear — And  1 lb.  of  Cam- 
wood. 

No.  20.  20  BUNCHES  36s.— SCARLET. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar — 10  ozs.  of  Young  Fus- 
tic— 12  ozs.  of  Cochineal — 1 pint  of  Spirits. 

No.  21.  20  BUNCHES  44s.— CINNAMON 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Crop  Madder — 3 lbs.  of  Cam- 
wood— 2 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 ozs.  of  Alum — And  1 oz. 
of  Copperas. 


72 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  22.  20  BUNCHES.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Cochineal — 1 lb.  of  Tartar — 
1 pint  of  Spirits. 

No.  23.  20  BUNCHES.— FULL  PINK. 

Dye  with  4 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 1 pint  of  Spirits — - 
1 lb.  of  Tartar. 

No.  24.  20  BUNCHES.— SALMON  COLOR. 

Dye  with  2 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic — 1 lb.  of  Tartar 
— 4 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 1 pint  of  Spirits. 

No.  25.  20  BUNCHES.— FULL  GRAIN  ROSE. 

Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 1 lb.  of  Tartar — 1 
pint  of  Spirits. 

No.  26.  20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  BUFF. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar — J oz.  of  Cochineal — 4 
ozs.  of  Fustic — 1 pint  of  Spirits.  Darker  shades 
may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  Cochineal,  according 
to  the  shade  required. 

No.  27.  20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Alum — 1 lb.  of  Tartar — 2 lbs. 
of  Bark — 2 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 3 gills  of  Spirits. 
Fuller  shades  of  Yellow  are  dyed  by  adding  more 
Fustic. 

No.  28.  20  BUNCHES.— ORANGE. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Tartar — 8 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 1 
pint  of  Spirits. 

No.  29.  20  BUNCHES.— BOTTLE  GREEN. 

After  getting  a good  Blue  bottom  in  the  Yat,  dye 
with  1 lb.  of  Tartar — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 1 gill  of  Chemic. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


73 


No.  30.  20  BUNCHES.— INVISIBLE  GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  4 lbs.  of 
Logwood — 8 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 ozs.  of  Red  Argol. 
If  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  more  Fustic, 
and  if  darker,  more  Logwood. 

No.  31.  20  BUNCHES.— DARK  BLUE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  5 lbs.  of 
Logwood,  and  if  not  Red  enough,  add  a handful  of 
Cudbear. 

No.  32.  20  BUNCHES.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  10  lbs.  of 
Logwood. 

No.  33.  20  BUNCHES.— FULL  BLACK. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  15  lbs.  of 
Logwood,  and  4 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

No.  34.  20  BUNCHES.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash — 2 quarts 
of  Blue  Spirits.  To  be  entered  cold,  and  heated  up 
as  quickly  as  possible ; when  boiled  15  minutes,  get 
out  and  add  1 quart  of  finishing  Spirits.  Enter  again, 
and  boil  15  minutes  more.  If  a dark  shade  is  re- 
quired, add  a little  Logwood  with  the  finishing 
Spirits. 

No.  35.  20  BUNCHES.— APPLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Logwood — 4 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 
ozs.  of  Alum,  and  2 ozs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  36.  20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  4 lbs.  of 
Fustic — 1 lb.  of  Logwood — 4 ozs.  of  Alum. 


74 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  37.  20  BUNCHES.— DARK  OLIYE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  4 lbs.  of 
Logwood — 6 lbs.  of  Fustic — 4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

No.  88.  20  BUNCHES.— BBOWN  OLIYE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  4 lbs  of 
Logwood — 6 lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  a 
little  Cudbear — 4 ozs.  of  Alum. 

No.  39.  20  BUNCHES.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Red  Argol — 1 lb.  Fustic — 8 ozs. 
of  Cudbear — \ oz.  Chemic. 

No.  40.  10  BUNCHES.— DOYE  COLOR. 

Dye  with  10  ozs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 2 spoonfuls 
of  Chemic — 2 ozs.  of  Cudbear. 

No.  41.  10  BUNCHES.— BLUE  LAYENDER. 

This  shade  is  dyed  with  Acid,  and  not  the  same 
as  the  Red  Lavender,  No.  7.  Dye  with  1 lb.  of 
Tartar — 2 ozs.  of  Paste  Cudbear — 4 ozs.  of  Chemic. 

No.  42.  10  BUNCHES.— SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Yitriol — 1 lb.  of  Red  Argol — 
1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  43.  10  BUNCHES.— SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Yitriol — 1 lb.  of  Argol 
— 1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  44.  20  BUNCHES.— SAGE  DRAB. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Argol — 1 lb.  of  Old  Fustic — 1 
oz.  of  Chemic — 1 handful  of  Cudbear. 

No.  45.  20  BUNCHES  CHROMED  GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  4 lbs.  of 
Logwood  and  6 lbs.  of  Fustic. 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


75 


No.  46.  DARK  CHROMED  GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  10,  and  finish  with  6 lbs.  of 
Logwood  and  10  lbs.  of  Fustic.  These  Greens  will 
much  resemble  the  Greens  dyed  with  Blue  bottoms, 
but  are  not  so  permanent. 

No.  47.  20  BUNCHES.— LIGHT  AND  DARK 
CLARET. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — 
Finish  with  8 lbs.  of  Peach  wood — 1 lb.  of  Logwood. 
If  darker  shades  are  required,  add  more  Logwood. 

' No.  48.  MOCK  CRIMSON. 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol.  After 
boiling  an  hour,  wash  well,  and  finish  in  a clear  ves- 
sel with  10  lbs.  of  Peach  wood — 1 gill  of  Spirits — 
2 pails  of  Urine.  Without  the  Urine  it  will  be  a 
Mock  Maroon. 

No.  49.  12  BUNCHES.— GRAIN  EAROON. 

Dye  with  1 pint  of  Spirits — 1J  lb.  of  Cochineal — 
1 lb.  of  Tartar.  Wash,  and  in  another  vessel  give  it 
1 lb.  of  Cudbear,  and  wash  off. 

No.  50.  80  BUNCHES.— DARK  CHOCOLATE. 

Dye  with  35  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood — 15  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 4 lbs.  of  Logwood — 4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  51.  80  BUNCHES.— HE AYY  BROWN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood — 24  lbs.  of  Fus- 
tic— 5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  52.  80  BUNCHES.— DARK  CLARET 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  24  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood — 4 lbs.  of  Fus- 
tic— 8 lbs.  of  Logwood — 4 lbs  of  Copperas.. 


76 


WOOLLEN  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  53.  80  BUNCHES. — DARKER  CLARET 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  36  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood — 8 lbs.  of  Fus- 
tic— 10  lbs.  of  Logwood — 6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  54.  100  BUNCHES.— FULL  RED  BROWN. 

Dye  with  34  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood — 15  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 1 lb.  Red  Argol — 6 lbs. 
of  Copperas. 

No.  55.  50  BUNCHES.— FULL  YELLOW 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood — 24  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 5 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  56.  DARKER  YELLOW  BROWN. 

20  lbs.  of  Sanders  Wood — 40  lbs.  of  Fustic — 6 
lbs.  of  Logwood — 6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  57.  50  BUNCHES.— DARK  OLIYE. 

Dye  with  36  lbs.  of  Fustic — 8 lbs.  of  Logwood — - 
2 lbs.  of  Argol — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  58.  50  BUNCHES.— DARKER  SHADE  OF 
OLIYE. 

40  lbs.  of  Fustic — 10  lbs.  of  Logwood — 2 lbs.  of 
Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — 4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  59.  80  BUNCHES.— YERY  DARK 
CLARET. 

35  lbs.  of  Sanders  W ood — 20  lbs.  of  Logwood — 
6 lbs.  of  Copperas — 2 pails  of  Urine  in  the  sadden- 
ing. It  is  to  be  understood  that  where  Copperas  is 
used  in  these  Yarns  it  is  for  the  saddening. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  1.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SLATE  PURPLE. 

Previous  to  Dyeing,  the  Yarns  must  be  well  scoured 
with  Soap  and  hot  Water,  at  80°.  Then  boil  twenty 
minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome,  then  wash  and  finish 
with  10  lbs.  of  Logwood,  1 lb.  of  Cudbear,  and  boil 
half  an  hour,  then  clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  2.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN. — FED  PURPLE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1,  and  finish  with  10  lbs.  of 
Logwood,  and  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear ; boil  twenty  minutes 
in  the  finishing. 

No.  8.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FULL  RED 
PURPLE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1,  and  finish  with  10  lbs.  of 
Logwood,  and  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear;  boil  twenty 
minutes. 

No.  4.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

6 lbs.  of  Prussiate,  6 quarts  of  Blue  Spirits,  enter 
cold,  and  heat  up  to  boiling  quickly,  and  turn  them 
over  sharply ; after  boiling  twenty  minutes,  get  out, 
and  add  3 quarts  of  finishing  Spirits.  Enter  again 
and  boil  a quarter  of  an  hour ; get  out  again,  add  3 
gills  more  of  finishing  Spirits,  and  2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
Enter  again,  and  turn  them  a quarter  of  an  hour 
very  quickly.  For  darker  shades,  add  more  Log- 
vood,  and  for  lighter,  less  Logwood, 

7* 


77 


78 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  5.  80  lbs.  OF  YAEN. — GEEEN  MAEOON. 

Boil  forty  minutes  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar,  8 quarts 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin,  5 lbs.  of  Cochineal,  then  wash  in 
clean  water,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs. 
of  Cudbear,  and  boil  a quarter  of  an  hour. 

No.  6.  80  lbs.  OF  YAEN.— MOCK  CEIMSON. 

Boil  one  hour  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum  and  8 lbs.  of 
Argol,  then  wash  well  in  clean  water,  and  finish  in 
a clean  vessel  with  30  lbs.  of  Peachwood,  1 pint  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin,  and  4 quarts  of  Ammonia. 

No.  7.  80  lbs.  OF  YAEN.— CLAEET. 

Boil  same  as  No.  6,  and  finish  with  4 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood, 30  lbs.  of  Peachwood. 

No.  8.  80  lbs.  OF  YAEN.— LIGHT  VICUNA. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  3 lbs.  of  Argol — 1 lb.  of 
Blue  Vitriol — 1 lb.  of  Cudbear — 5 lbs.  of  Fustic. 

No.  9.  80  lbs.  OF  YAEN.— DAEK  VICUNA. 

Boil  1 hour  with  4 lbs.  of  Argol — 2 lbs.  of  Blue 
Vitriol — 2 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 7 lbs.  of  Fustic — 7 lbs. 
of  Madder. 

No.  10.  80  lbs.  OF  YAEN.— OAK  DEAB. 

Coil  half  an  hour  with  3 lbs.  of  Argol — 3 lbs.  of 
Blue  Vitriol — 20  lbs.  of  Fustic — a handful  of  Cud- 
bear. 

No.  11.  80  lbs.  OF  YAEN.— BOTTLE  GEEEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Eed  Argol,  2 lbs. 
of  Blue  Vitriol,  30  lbs.  of  Fustic,  4 quarts  of  Chemic, 
and  1 lb.  of  Cudbear.  Most  shades  of  dark  Green 
may  be  dyed  as  well  with  Chrome,  which  would  be 
a saving  of  two -thirds  of  the  expense. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


79 


No.  12.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— APPLE  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol — 8 lbs. 
of  Blue  Vitriol — 30  lbs.  of  Fustic — } of  a pint  of 
Liquid  Extract. 

No.  13.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— KNOT  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 8 lbs.  of 
Alum — 30  lbs.  of  Fustic — 1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  14.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SEA  GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 lbs.  of 
Alum — 5 lbs.  of  Fustic — 1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  15.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  SEA 
GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 4 lbs.  of 
Alum— 10  lbs.  of  Fustic — 1 quart  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  16.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— MOCK  MAROON. 

Boil  twenty  minutes  with  16  lbs.  of  Cudbear — 1 
quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

No.  17.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GREEN  OLIVE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol — 3 lbs.  of 
Blue  Vitriol — 30  lbs.  of  Fustic — 1 quart  of  Liquid 
Extract. 

No.  18.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  OLIVE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol — 3 lbs  of 
Blue  Vitriol — 30  lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 quarts  of  Chemic 
— 1 lb.  of  Cudbear. 

No.  19.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DAHLIA. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  12  lbs.  of  Cudbear — 1 quart 
of  Ammonia. 


80 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  20.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— RUBY. 

Boil  twenty  minutes  with  12  lbs.  of  Cudbear. 

No.  21.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— APPLE  GREEN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  3 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood— 40  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  22.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— INVISIBLE 
GREEN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  30  lbs.  of 
Logwood — 30  lbs  of  Fustic.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  23.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  10  lbs.  of 
Logwood — 25  lbs.  Fustic.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  24.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— BROWN  OLIVE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  25  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs. 
of  Madder — then  get  the  Yarns  out  of  the  vessel, 
and  add  2 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol — 2 lbs.  of  Copperas. 
Put  them  in  again  and  turn  twenty  minutes. 

No.  25.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GREEN  OLIVE. 
Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  6 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood— :30  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  26.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— CANARY  COLOR. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  5 lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark 
- — 4 lbs.  of  Alum — 2 quarts  of  Spirits. 

No.  27.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  30  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 
4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 quarts  of  Spirits. 

No.  28.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— ORANGE. 

Boil  1 hour  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal — 30  lbs.  of 
Young  Fustic — 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 3 quarts  of  Spirits. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


81 


No.  29.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Boil  1 hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal — 1 lb. 
of  dry  Cochineal — I lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 quarts  of 
Spirits. 

No.  80.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— ROSE. 

Boil  1 hour  with  3 \ lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal — I lbs. 
of  Tartar — 2 quarts  of  Spirits. 

No.  31.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— PINK. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  2 lbs.  Paste  Cochineal — 
4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 quarts  of  Spirits. 


To  Make  Cochineal  Paste. — Add  3 gills  of 
Strong  Ammonia  to  1 lb.  of  Cochineal,  and  mix  it 
well  in  a Jar,  put  the  Jar  into  a Vessel  of  boiling 
water,  keeping  the  water  out  of  the  Jar,  during  about 
8 hours,  or  upon  a warm  Sand  Bath  during  about  12 
hours,  or  upon  a boiler. 

No.  32.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— IMITATION  OF 
INDIGO  BLUE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  20  lbs.  of 
Logwood — 1 Pint  of  Ammonia.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  33.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  30  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — 20  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  34.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— CLARET  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  30  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  35.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SNUFF  COLOR. 

Boil  1 hour  with  25  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs.  of 
Madder — 2 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol.  Boil  half  an  hour. 


82 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


No.  36.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FULL  BLACK. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  40  lbs.  of 
Logwood — 15  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  37.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1 — Finish  with  30  lbs.  of 
Logwood.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  38.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 2 
lbs.  of  Fustic — 1 handful  of  Cudbear — 2 spoonfuls 
of  Chemic. 

No.  39.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LILAC. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 lb.  of 
Cudbear — Half  a gill  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  40.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LAVENDER. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 lb.  of 
Paste  Cudbear — 1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  41.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— LIGHT  PUCE. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  5 lbs.  of  Archil. 

No.  42.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SLATE  DRAB. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol — 2 lbs.  of 
Fustic — 3 handfuls  of  Cudbear — 1 gill  of  Chemic. 

No.  43.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SAGE  DRAB. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Argol — 2 lbs.  of 
Fustic — 2 handfuls  of  Cudbear — 2 spoonfuls  of 
Chemic. 

No.  44.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— RED  CINNAMON 
BROWN. 

Boil  two  hours  with  40  lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  Red 
Sanders.  No  Saddening. 


WORSTED  YARN  DYEING. 


83 


No.  45.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  BROWN. 

Boil  same  as  the  last — Sadden  with  1 lb.  of  Blue 
Vitriol — 3 lbs.  of  Copperas.  Turn  them  on  half  an 
hour  without  boiling. 

No.  46.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DARK  RED 
BROWN. 

Boil  same  as  No.  44 — Sadden  with  4 lbs.  of  Cop- 
peras. 

No.  47.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— GRAIN 
SCARLET. 

Boil  one  hour  with  5 lbs.  of  Cochineal — 20  lbs.  of 
Young  Fustic — 7 lbs.  of  White  or  Brown  Tartar — 
3 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin,  or  Oxalic  Muriate  of  Tin, 
which  is  preferable. 

No.  48.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SALMON. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  12  ounces  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 quarts  of  Spirits. 

No.  49.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SKY  BLUE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 gill  of 
Liquid  Extract. 

No.  50.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— SAXON  BLUE. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract 
— 8 lbs.  of  Tartar. 

No.  51.  80  lbs.  OF  YARN.— DOVE  COLOR. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 gill  of 
Extract — 1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear.  Brighter  Shades 
of  this  Color  may  be  got  by  adding  Paste  Cochineal 
instead  of  Cudbear,  but  to  brighten  Cudbear,  run 
through  a little  Ammonia  and  warm  Water. 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


No.  1.  2 Pieces , LONG  WOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. 

GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Boil  1 hour  with  9 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic,  6 lbs.  of 
Tartar,  6 quarts  of  Spirits ; finish  in  a clean  vessel 
with  4 J lbs.  of  Lac,  4J  lbs.  of  Cochineal,  4 quarts  of 
Spirits,  besides  the  6 pints  mixed  with  the  Lac. 
Boil  one  hour.  The  Spirits  to  be  used  is  Nitrate  of 
Tin,  or  two  parts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin  and  one  part  of 
Oxalic  Muriate  of  Tin,  which  is  preferable. 

No.  2.  4 Pieces , BOCKINS,  36  lbs.  each. 

SCARLET. 

Boil  1J  hour  with  12  lbs.  of  Lac,  10  lbs.  of  Young 
Fustic,  6 lbs.  of  Tartar,  and  13  quarts  of  Spirits. 

No.  3.  4 Pieces , ORANGE  LISTS,  35  lbs.  each. 

SCARLET. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  good  Lac — 6 lbs.  of  Young 
Fustic — 6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 3 gallons  of  Spirits. 
Boil  hour. 

No.  4.  2 Pieces,  SAVED  LISTS,  70  lbs.  each. 

SCARLET. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Lac — 6 lbs.  of  Tartar — 8 lbs. 
of  Young  Fustic — 3 gallons  of  Spirits.  Boil  1J 
hour. 


84 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


85 


No.  5.  2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  75  lbs.  each. 
LAC  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Lac — 8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 lbs. 
of  Rasped  Fustic — 9 quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil  1J 
hour. 


No.  6.  20  Pieces , SERGES,  8 lbs.  each. 

SCARLET. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Lac — 12  lbs.  of  Tartar — 10 
lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 12  quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil  1 
hour 

No.  7.  6 Ends,  FINE  SAVED  LISTS,  20  lbs.  each. 

SCARLET 

Dye  with  14  lbs.  of  Lac — 7 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic 
— 8 lbs.  of  Tartar — 6 quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil  1J 
hour. 

No.  8.  4 Pieces , GOLD  LISTS,  40  lbs.  each. 

ORANGE. 

Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal — 12  lbs.  of  Quer- 
citron Bark — J lb.  of  Lac — 6 lbs.  of  Tartar — 12  pints 
of  Bark  Spirits.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  9.  2 Ends , BOCKINS,  68  lbs.  each. 

SALMON. 

Dye  with  f lb.  of  Cochineal — \ lb.  of  Paste  Coch- 
ineal— 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 lb.  of  Fustic — 12  pints  of 
Spirits.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  10.  4 Pieces , ORANGE  LISTS,  25  lbs.  each. 

SALMON. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Cochineal — 4 lbs.  of  Rasped 
Fustic — 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 7 quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil 
1 hour. 

8 


86 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


No.  11.  2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. 
GBAIN  BOSE. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Cochineal — 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 
18  pints  of  Spirits.  Blue  up  in  a cistern  of  warm 
water,  with  Urine  according  to  shade  required. 

No.  12.  4 Pieces , OBANGE  LISTS,  34  lbs.  each. 
GOLD  COLOB. 

Boil  1 hour  with  2 lbs.  of  Cochineal — 12  ozs.  Ox 
Lac — 13  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark — 12  lbs.  of  Bark 
Spirits.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  13.  6 Ends,  OBANGE  LISTS,  28  lbs.  each 
GBAIN  BOSE. 

5 \ lbs.  of  Cochineal — 7 lbs.  of  Tartar — 9 quarts  of 
Spirits — Blue  as  No.  11.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  14.  3 Pieces , SAVED  LISTS,  58  lbs.  each. 
FULL  BED  CBIMSON. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Lac — 1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 7 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal — 7 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar 
- — 10  quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  15.  4 Pieces , OBANGE  LISTS,  34  lbs.  each. 
LIGHT  BOSE. 

Dye  with  2J  lbs.  of  Cochineal — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 
lbs.  of  Tartar — 6 quarts  of  Spirits. 

No.  16.  2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. 
BOSE  COLOB. 

6 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 quarts  of 
Spirits.  Boil  1 hour.  List  them  over  a Horse  tree, 
without  washing,  till  next  day;  then  finish  with  J lb. 
of  Paste  Cochineal — 2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 3 
pints  of  Spirits. 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


87 


No.  17.  4 Ends,  LITTLE  BOCKINS,  25  lbs.  each. 
YELLOW. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 12  lbs.  of  Young  Fus- 
tic— 7 quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  18.  6 Ends , GOLD  LISTS,  84  lbs.  each. 
YELLOW,  OB  AMBER. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark — 12  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 7 lbs.  of  Tartar — 5 quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  19.  4 Pieces , ORANGE  LISTS,  80  lbs.  each. 
SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Crystals — 10  lbs.  of  Alum — 
2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 8 gills  of  Liquid  Ex- 
tract. Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  20.  4 Ends,  GOLD  LISTS,  80  lbs.  each. 
DOVE  COLOR. 

Dye  with  1 lb.  of  Paste  Cochineal — 8 lbs.  of  Tar- 
tar— 10  spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  40 
minutes. 

No.  21.  2 Pieces,  BROAD  CLOTHS,  42  yards 
each.— CRIMSON. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Lac — 4J  lbs.  of  Cochineal — 6 
quarts  of  Spirits.  Clean  and  blue  in  a cistern  of 
warm  water  with  5 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 8 pails  of 
Urine. 

No.  22.  20  Pieces,  SERGES,  8 lbs.  each. — GREEN. 

Dye  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic — 4 pints  of  Chemic — 
4 lbs.  of  Argol — 8 lbs.  of  Alum.  Boil  1 hour. 


83 


WOOLLEN  1 YEING. 


No.  23.  4 Ends , CLOTH,  24  lbs.  each. 

EOYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Prussiate — 6 quarts  of  Royal 
Blue  Spirits.  Enter  cold  and  heat  up  quickly,  and 
turn  on  sharply,  after  boiling  20  minutes  get  out, 
and  add  2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits,  enter  again, 
and  boil  20  minutes. 

No.  24.  4 Ends,  24  lbs.  each,  DARK  ROYAL 
BLUE. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Prussiate — 6 quarts  of  Royal 
Blue  Spirits.  Enter  cold  and  heat  up  quickly,  and 
turn  on  sharply ; after  boiling  20  minutes  get  out, 
and  add  2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits ; enter  again, 
and  boil  20  minutes ; get  out  and  cool  over ; then 
add  2 lbs.  of  Logwood,  and  1 quart  of  Finishing 
Spirits.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  25.  10  Pieces , SERGES,  8 lbs.  each. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Prussiate — 8 quarts  of  Royal 
Blue  Spirits — 3 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits — Log- 
wood according  to  shade  required.  Heat  up  same  as 
number  23. 

No.  26.  4 Pieces , ORANGE  LISTS,  34  lbs.  each. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Prussiate — 6 quarts  of  Royal 
Blue  Spirits — 3 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits — 1,  2,  3, 
or  4 lbs.  of  Logwood,  according  to  shade. 

No.  27.  2 Pieces,  LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Prussiate — 12  pints  of  Royal 
Blue  Spirits — 6 pints  of  Finishing  Spirits — Log- 
wood according  to  shade.  Heat  same  as  No.  24. 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


89 


]STo.  28. 

Gold  Lists  are  dyed  in  all  respects  as  No.  26. 

No.  29.  2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. 
GREEN. 

Dye  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic — 1 pint  of  Chemic — 10 
lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of  Argol.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  30.  4 Ends,  LADIES’  CLOTHS,  25  yards 
each. — PURPLE. 

Boil  2 \ hours  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum — 8 lbs.  of 
Argol — 1 quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — Wash  well  and 
finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Logwood,  and  4 lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood,  in  a clean  vessel.  Enter  cool  in  the  finishing 
and  heat  up  to  the  boiling  point. 

No.  31.  4 Pieces,  PILOT  CLOTHS,  120  lbs.  each. 
DARK  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  40  lbs.  of  Fustic — 40  lbs.  of  Sanders — 
6 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Sadden  with  6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  32.  8 Ends,  NARROW  HONLEYS,  40  yards 
each.— DARK  CLARET  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  70  lbs.  of  Sanders — 10  lbs.  of  Fustic — 
6 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Sadden  with  8 lbs.  of  Copperas 
— 1 Cupful  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

No.  33.  1 Piece,  FLUSHING,  112  lbs.— BLACK. 

Stuff  with  10  lbs.  of  Copperas — 3 lbs.  of  Blue 
Vitriol — 3 lbs.  of  Argol — 2 lbs.  of  Sumac — 2 lbs.  of 
Fustic — Finish  with  30  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  one 
hour. 


To  Dye  the  same  with  Chhome  : 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome — } lb.  of 
8* 


90 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


Eed  Argol — Wash  well,  and  then  finish  with  24  lbs. 
of  Logwood.  Boil  forty  minutes. 

No.  34.  12  Ends , BOCKINS.— PEACHWOOD 

RED. 

Boil  three  hours  with  60  lbs.  of  Alum — 20  lbs.  of 
Red  Argol — Finish  in  a pan,  4 at  a time,  with  40 
lbs.  of  solid  Peachwood — 1 gill  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
For  Bluer  shades  add  a little  Urine. 

No.  35.  2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each 
GREEN. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar — 10  lbs.  of  Alum — 3 
gills  of  Chernic — 20  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  one  hour. 

No.  36.  2 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. 
CHESTNUT  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  120  lbs.  of  Sanders — 16  lbs.  of  Fustic 
—In  the  middle  of  the  saddening,  add  a pint  of  Oil 
of  Vitriol — Sadden  with  § a lb.  of  Copperas. 

No.  37.  3 Pieces,  BROAD  CLOTH.— DARK 
GREEN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Argol — 6 lbs.  of  Madder — 5 
pints  of  Chernic — 40  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  two  hours. 

No.  38.  3 Pieces , LONGWOOLS,  80  lbs.  each. 
CLARET  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Sanders — 30  lbs.  of  Fustic — 
5 lbs.  of  Logwood — Sadden  with  3 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  39.  4 Pieces , LADIES’  CLOTH.— CHROMED 
GREEN. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome — Finish 
with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 10  lbs.  Logwood.  Boil  half 
an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


91 


No.  40.  2 Pieces,  BOCKINS,  40  lbs.  each. 
CLARET. 

Stuff  with  30  lbs.  of  Sanders — 6 lbs.  of  Logwood 
— Sadd?n  with  6 lbs.  of  Copperas — 2 pailfuls  of 
Urine.  Lighter  or  Darker  shades  may  be  got  by 
giving  more  or  less  Logwood  in  the  Stuffing,  and 
more  or  less  Copperas  in  the  Saddening. 

No.  41.  2 Pieces , LADIES’  CLOTHS.— BROWN 
OLIVE. 

Stuff  with  30  lbs.  of  Fustic — 6 lbs.  of  Logwood — 
3 lbs.  of  Sanders.  Sadden  with  4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  42.  2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS,  100  lbs.  each. 
MULE  DRAB. 

Dye  in  Grease,  stuff  with  14  lbs.  of  Camwood — 1 
lb.  of  Fustic — 4 lbs.  of  Sumac— 24  lbs.  of  Madder. 
Sadden  with  6 lbs.  of  Copperas. 

No.  43.  2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS,  100  lbs.  each.— 
STONE  DRAB. 

Dye  in  Grease,  with  20  lbs.  of  Madder — 1 lb.  of 
Logwood — 1 lb.  of  Cudbear — 2 lbs.  of  Sumac — 1 lb. 
of  Copperas. 

No.  44.  2 Pieces , FLUSHINGS.— FAWN  DRAB. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Madder — 2 lbs.  of  Camwood — 
2 handfuls  of  Fustic — 2 handfuls  of  Cudbear — 4 
ounces  of  Copperas. 

No.  45.  TO  DYE  10  STONES  OF  WOOL 
NUT  BROWN. 

Stuff  with  60  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs.  of  Sanders. 
Add  1 cup  of  Oil  of  Vitriol  in  the  middle  of  the 
stuffing.  Then  sadden  with  4 lbs.  of  Copperas. 


92 


WOOLLEN  DYEING. 


No.  46.  TO  DYE  4 DRUGGETS,  70  lbs.  each, 
A GOOD  LIGHT  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  60  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of 
Argol — 1 pint  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 3 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
Finish  with  40  lbs.  of  Lima  Peachwood. 

No.  47.  TO  DYE  4 DRUGGETS  A GOOD 
CRIMSON. 

Boil  3 hours  with  60  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of 
Argol — 1 pint  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Clean  and  finish 
with  solid  Peachwood,  and  a little  Ammonia,  ac- 
cording to  shade. 

No.  48.  TO  DYE  2 PIECES,  BOCKINS,  40  lbs. 
each,  A GOOD  LOGWOOD  BLUE 

Boil  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum — 5 lbs.  of  Argol — 1 
quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Finish  with  16  lbs.  of  Log- 
wood— 3 pails  of  Urine. 

No.  49.  TO  DYE  4 PIECES,  FLUSHINGS, 
LOGWOOD  BLUE. 

Boil  2 hours  with  3 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol — 3 lbs.  of 
Red  Argol — 3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 20  lbs.  of 
Alum.  Then  clean,  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Chipped 
Logwood — 5 pails  of  Urine.  Enter  at  150°,  and  heat 
up  to  boiling  point.  This  is  a good  mode  of  dyeing 
Logwood  Blues. 

No.  50. 

Wools  are  prepared  the  same  way,  and  dyed  with 
the  same  ingredients,  weight  for  weight,  as  Yarns 
and  Woollen  Pieces  are. 


WOOLLEN"  DYEING. 


93 


No.  51.  NEW  MODE  OF  DYEING  LOGWOOD 
BLUES,  2 Pieces , WOOLLEN  CLOTHS,  200  lbs. 
each,  OF  ANY  QUALITY. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome — 4 lbs.  of 
Alum — 1 lb.  of  Red  Argol.  Clean  and  finish  with 
35  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  half  an  hour  in  the 
finishing.  This  is  the  best  mode  of  dyeing  a Log- 
wood Blue.  It  will  bear  exposure  to  the  atmos- 
phere almost  as  well  as  Indigo  Blue. 

No.  52.  2 Pieces , BOCKINS,  40  lbs.  each.— 
MAROON. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum — 5 lbs.  of  Red 
Argol — 1 lb.  of  Logwood.  Clean  and  finish  with  30 
lbs.  of  Peachwood — 6 pails  of  Urine. 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


No.  1.  10  Pieces , } COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— PINK  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  ozs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal— 5 lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  White  Tartar — 4 
pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  30  minutes. 

No.  2.  10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASK.— 
PINK. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1J  lb.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal— 1 lbs.  of  Alum — 1 lbs.  of  White  Tartar — 6 
pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — Boil  1 hour.  Lighter  or 
darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  or  less 
Paste  with  the  same  quantity  of  Acid. 

No.  3.  10  Pieces , f DAMASK  COTTON  AND 
WORSTED.— SALMON  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  50  minutes. 

No.  4.  10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASK.— 
SALMON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  8 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 6 lbs.  of  Tartar.  Boil 
1 hour.  If  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  4 ozs. 
of  Ground  Fustic. 

94 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


95 


No.  5.  10  Pieces , § COTTON  & AV  OUSTED 

DAMASKS.— ROSE  COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 1 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 pints 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  6.  10  Pieces , f-  WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
ROSE  COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1J  lb.  of  dry  Cochineal 
— 5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 4 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  1 hour.  If  Bluer  shades  be  required,  let  one 
half  of  the  Cochineal  be  paste,  and  the  other  half 
dry,  and  rather  less  Nitrate  of  Tin. 

No.  7.  10  Pieces , COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS,  WHITE  AND  LIGHT  RED 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of  Alum — 4 lbs. 
of  Brown  Tartar — 1 J lb.  of  dry  Cochineal — 4 quarts 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces , | WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
LIGHT  RED  CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 lbs. 
of  Brown  Tartar — 2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 10 
pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  9.  10  Pieces , COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Paste  Coch- 
ineal— 2 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 4 
lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  forty  minutes. 


96 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


No.  10.  10  Pieces , } WORSTED  DAMASKS. — 
GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Coch- 
ineal— 2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 5 lbs.  of  Brown 
Tartar — 3 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  one  hour.  When  the  shades  are  not  required 
very  Blue,  more  Dry  Cochineal  must  be  used,  and 
less  Paste  Cochineal,  and  if  wanted  Bluer,  use  more 
Paste  Cochineal  and  less  Dry  Cochineal. 

No.  11.  10  Pieces , f DAMASK  COTTON  AND 
WORSTED  BUFE  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 1 lb.  of  Young  Fustic — 1 lbs.  of  Tartar — 6 pints 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  12.  10  Pieces,  WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
BUFF. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  3 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— -1J  lb.  of  Young  Fustic— 6 lbs.  of  Tartar — 8 pints 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by 
adding  more  Cochineal,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
other  ingredients. 

No.  13.  10  Pieces , } COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— STRAW  COLOR  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar 
— 12  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic — 1 oz.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  twenty  minutes. 

No.  14.  10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
STRAW  COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tar- 
tar— 12  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic — 1J  oz.  of  Dry  Coch- 
ineal— 8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  forty 
minutes. 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


97 


No.  15.  10  Pieces , } COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— YELLOW  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tar- 
tar— 5 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 5 pints  of  Nitrate  of 
Tin.  Boil  twenty  minutes. 

No.  16.  10  Pieces , } DAMASKS.— YELLOW. 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar 
— 6 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  half  an  hour.  Darker  shades  of  Yellow  may 
be  dyed  by  adding  more  Fustic,  and  using  the  same 
quantity  of  the  other  ingredients.  If  very  bright 
shades  are  required,  use  more  Spirits  in  the  dyeing. 

No.  17.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— LAC  SCARLET  AND  WHITE. 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  7 lbs.  of  Lac — 5 lbs.  of 
Young  Fustic — 8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 5 lbs.  of 
Brown  Tartar  or  White  Argol.  Boil  one  hour. 

No.  18.  10  Pieces , } WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
LAC  SCARLET. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol 
— 6 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of 
Tin — 8 lbs.  of  Lac.  Boil  one  hour. 

No.  19.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GRAIN  SCARLET  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 2J  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic 
— 8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  one  hour. 

No.  20.  10  Pieces , WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 

GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 6 lbs.  of 
Brown  Tartar — 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 2J  lbs. 


98 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


of  Young  Fustic.  Boil  one  hour.  This  is  the  real 
Grain  Scarlet.  It  can  be  imitated  with  Lac  Dye, 
but  is  not  quite  so  bright. 

No.  21.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— LIGHT  ORANGE  AND 
WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tar- 
tar— 6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 6 lbs.  of  Young 
Fustic — 12  ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  22.  10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
ORANGE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  7 lbs.  Brown  Tartar — 
8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic 
— 1J  lb.  of  Cochineal.  Boil  1 hour.  When 
Yellower  shades  are  wanted,  use  more  Fustic,  and 
when  Redder  shades  are  wanted,  use  more  Cochineal, 
with  the  same  quantity  of  Spirits  and  Tartar. 

No.  28.  10  Pieces,  } COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SKY  BLUE  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Common 
Crystals — 3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — f of  a pint  of 
Liquid  Extract — 2 spoonfuls  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 
1 oz.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  24.  10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vit- 
riol—20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 1 Tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 
1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract — 2 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Pot- 
ash. The  Prussiate  will  give  the  color  a bloomy 
appearance,  which  is  difficult  to  get  without  it. 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


99 


No.  25.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SAXON  BLUE  AND  WHITE. 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 2 
quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 ozs.  of  Prussiate — 1 Tot 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil 
1 hour. 

No.  26.  10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 2 
quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 1 ozs.  of  Prussiate — 1 Tot 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 8 gills  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil 
1 hour.  If  darker  shades  are  required,  add  more 
Liquid  Extract,  according  to  shade. 

No.  27.  10  Pieces , } COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— LIGHT  GREEN  AND  WHITE. 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  15  lbs.  of  Alum — 6 
lbs.  of  White  Argol — 15  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic — - 
1 Tot  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  28.  10  Pieces , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
LIGHT  GREEN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Alum — 20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 8 
lbs.  of  White  Argol — 1J  Tot  of  Liquid  Extract. 
Boil  1 hour.  If  the  shade  is  required  Bluer,  add  a 
little  more  Extract,  and  if  Yellower  a little  more 
Fustic. 

No.  29.  10  Pieces , } COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— MIDDLE  GREEN  AND  WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol 
— 15  lbs.  of  Alum — 1 gill  of  Chemic — 20  lbs.  of 
Fustic.  Boil  1 hour. 


100 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


No.  30.  10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
MIDDLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Alum 
— | pint  of  Chemic — 25  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  1 hour. 
Darker  shades  of  Green  must  have  more  Chemic, 
and  if  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  more  Fustic. 

No.  31.  10  Pieces,  } COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.  — CINNAMON  BROWN  AND 
WHITE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped 
Fustic — 2 lbs.  of  Camwood — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of 
Madder. 

No.  32.  10  Pieces,  f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Dye  with  50  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped  Fustic — 15  lbs.  of 
Super  Argol — 25  lbs.  of  Alum — 4 lbs.  of  Red  Argol 
■ — 2J  lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  a handful  of  Cudbear  may 
be  used  in  the  place  of  Camwood,  which  will  pro- 
duce the  same  effect.  Boil  1J  hour.  If  a flatter 
shade  is  required,  add  a spoonful  of  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  33.  15  Pieces,  f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 

DAMASKS.— LIGHT  FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 handfuls  of  Madder — 
The  size  of  a Knor  of  Paste  Cudbear — 1 spoonful  of 
Liquid  Extract.  Boil  one  hour. 

No.  34.  15  Pieces , } WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
DARKER  FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


101 


Extract — 1 handfuls  Madder — 1 handful  Paste  Cud- 
bear. Boil  to  shade.  If  a darker  shade  is  required, 
add  more  Extract. 

No.  35.  15  Pieces , f DAMASKS.— LIGHT  SIL- 
VER DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 1 handful  of  Paste  Cud- 
bear— 2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  40  min- 
utes. 

No.  36.  10  Pieces , DAMASKS.— DARKER  SIL- 
VER DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 handfuls  of  Cudbear — 
1 handful  of  Madder — 4 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Ex- 
tract. Boil  1 hour.  If  a darker  shade  is  required, 
add  more  Liquid  Extract,  and  other  ingredients. 

No.  37.  10  Pieces, , f WORSTED  DAMASKS.— 
MOCK  CRIMSON. 

The  pieces  must  be  boiled  for  three  hours,  in  a 
clean  vessel  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of  White 
Argol  or  Brown  Tartar — 1 quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
After  which  they  mutt  be  well  cleaned,  and  then 
they  must  be  finished  in  another  clean  vessel  with 
25  lbs.  of  Peach  wood — 3 gills  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 5 
pailfuls  of  Urine.  Boil  a few  Ends.  Then  clean 
and  dry  for  the  press.  This  color  will  very  much 
approach  the  Grain  Crimson,  but  will  not  so  well 
bear  exposure  to  the  atmosphere.  The  Cotton  and 
W orsted  Damasks  are  dyed  the  same  way,  but  re- 
quire less  Acid  in  the  boiling  and  less  Peachwood 
in  the  finishing.  In  dyeing  this  color,  the  Cotton  is 
sometimes  bleached,  which  tends  to  improve  it  very 
much.  It  must  be  passed  a few  times  through  a 

9* 


102 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


weak  Chloride  of  Lime  Liquor,  with  a little  Nitric 
Acid  in  it.  Sulphuric  Acid  is  too  strong,  and  affects 
the  color  too  much.  The  Pieces  should  next  be 
cleaned,  and  then  Blued  up  to  pattern  in  a vessel 
of  warm  water,  with  Urine  according  to  the  shade 
required. 

No.  38.  10  Pieces , f DAMASKS.— SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel,  at  boiling  heat,  with  5 lbs. 
of  Fustic — 1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract — 20  lbs.  of  Alum 
— 5 lbs.  of  White  Argol.  Boil  one  hour.  When 
the  shade  is  required  darker,  add  more  Extract,  and 
if  Yellower,  add  more  Fustic. 

No.  39.  10  Pieces , f DAMASKS.— COFFEE 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  30  lbs.  of  Camwood — 10  lbs.  of  Red 
Argol,  or  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 1 pint  of  Chemic 
— 3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Boil  two  hours.  This 
shade  of  Color  is  not  often  wanted,  but  as  it  is 
sometimes  called  for,  it  is  here  inserted. 

No.  40.  10  Pieces , DAMASKS.— BLACK. 

Boil  the  pieces  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 
lbs.  of  Red  Argol — 1 lb.  of  Chrome — Wash  them  and 
finish  in  another  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Logwood — 5 
lbs.  of  Old  Fustic.  Boil  half  an  hour. 


MOREEN  DYEING, 


No.  1.  15  Pieces,  } MOREENS.— LIGHT  SKY 
BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Common 
Crystals — 8 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — f of  a pint  of 
Liquid  Extract — 2 spoonfuls  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 1 
oz.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  2.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— BARK  SKY 
BLUE. 

Bye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vit- 
riol— 20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 1 tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin 
— 1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract — 2 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of 
Potash.  The  Prussiate  will  give  the  color  a bloomy 
appearance,  which  is  difficult  to  get  without  it. 

No.  3.  15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— FULL  ORANGE. 

Bye  in  a clean  vessel  with  7 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar 
— 8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 10  lbs.  of  Young  Fus- 
tic— 1J  lb.  of  Cochineal.  Boil  one  hour.  When 
Yellower  shades  are  wanted,  use  more  Fustic,  and 
when  Redder  shades  are  wanted,  use  more  Cochineal, 
with  the  same  quantity  of  Spirits  and  Tartar. 

No.  4.  15  Pieces , J MOREENS.— LIGHT  ORANGE. 

Bye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar 
— 6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 6 lbs.  of  Young  Fus- 
tic— 12  ozs.  of  Bry  Cochineal.  Boil  40  minutes. 

103 


104 


MOREEN  DYEING. 


No.  5.  15  Pieces , MOREENS.— FULL  GRAIN 
SCARLET. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 6 lbs.  of 
Brow'n  Tartar — 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 2J  lbs. 
of  Young  Fustic.  Boil  one  hour.  This  is  the  real 
Grain  Scarlet.  It  can  be  imitated  with  Lac  Dye,  but 
it  is  not  quite  so  bright. 

No.  6.  15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— GRAIN  SCAR- 
LET. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 2J  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic 
— 8 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  one  hour. 

No.  7.  15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— LIGHT  LAC 
SCARLET. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol 
—6  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin 
■ — 8 lbs.  of  Lac.  Boil  one  hour. 

No.  8.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL  LAC 
SCARLET. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Lac — 5 lbs. 
of  Young  Fustic — 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 7 
lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar  or  White  Argol.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  9.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  YEL- 
LOW. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar 
— 5 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  10.  15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— FULL  YEL- 
LOW. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  Brown  Tar- 
tar— 10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 8 pints  of  Nitrate  of 


MOREEN  DYEING. 


105 


Tin.  Boil  half  an  hour.  Darker  shades  of  Yellow 
may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  Fustic,  and  using  the 
same  quantity  of  other  ingredients.  If  very  bright 
shades  are  required,  use  more  Nitrate  of  Tin  in  the 
dyeing. 

No.  11.  15  Pieces , f MOKEENS.— STRAW 

COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tar- 
tar— 10  ozs.  of  Young  Fustic — 1 oz.  of  Dry  Coch- 
ineal— 6 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  12.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— BUFF. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  3 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 1J  lb.  of  Young  Fustic — 6 lbs.  of  Tartar — 8 pints 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by 
adding  more  Cochineal,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
other  ingredients. 

No.  13.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  GRAIN 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Paste  Coch- 
ineal—2 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 4 
lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  14.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— DARK  GRAIN 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Coch- 
ineal— 2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 5 lbs.  of  Brown 
Tartar — 3 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  1 hour.  When  the  shades  are  not  required 
very  Blue,  more  Dry  Cochineal  must  be  used,  and 
less  Paste  Cochineal ; and  if  wanted  Bluer,  use  more 
Paste  Cochineal,  and  less  Dry  Cochineal. 


106 


MOREEN  DYEING. 


No.  15.  15  Pieces , £ MOREENS.— COFFEE 
BROWN. 

Dye  with  30  lbs.  of  Camwood — 10  lbs.  of  Red 
Argol,  or  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 1 pint  of  Chemie 
— 3 pints  of  the  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Boil  2 hours.  This 
shade  of  color  is  not  often  wanted,  but  as  it  is 
sometimes  called  for,  it  is  here  inserted. 

No.  16.  15  Pieces,  £ MOREENS.— SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel,  at  boiling  heat,  with  5 lbs. 
of  Fustic — 1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract — 20  lbs.  of  Alum 
— 7 lbs.  of  White  Argol.  Boil  1 hour.  When  the 
shade  is  required  darker,  add  more  Extract,  and  if 
Yellower,  add  more  Fustic. 

No.  17.  15  Pieces , £ MOREENS.— MOCK  CRIM- 
SON. 

The  pieces  must  be  boiled  for  3 hours  in  a clean 
vessel  with  30  lbs.  Alum— 10  lbs.  of  White  Argol 
or  Brown  Tartar — 1 quart  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — After 
which,  they  must  be  well  cleaned,  and  then  they 
must  be  finished  in  another  clean  vessel  with  25  lbs. 
of  Peachwood — 3 gills  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 5 pailfuls 
of  Urine.  Boil  a few  Ends.  Then  clean  and  dry 
for  the  press.  This  color  will  very  much  approach 
the  Grain  Crimson,  but  will  not  so  well  bear  expo- 
sure to  the  atmosphere. 

No.  18.  15  Pieces , £ MOREENS.— BLACK. 

Boil  the  pieces  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with 
2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol — 1 lb.  of  Chrome — Wash  them 
and  finish  in  another  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Logwood 
—5  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic.  Boil  half  an  hour. 


MOREEN  DYEING.  107 

No.  19.  15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— LIGHT  SIL- 
VER DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 1 handful  of  Paste 
Cudbear — 2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  40 
minutes. 

No.  20.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL  SIL VE  R 
DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 handfuls  of  Paste 
Cudbear — 1 handful  of  Madder — 4 spoonfuls  of  Li- 
quid Extract.  Boil  1 hour.  If  a darker  shade  is 
required,  add  more  Liquid  Extract  to  the  other  in- 
gredients. 

No.  21.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT 
FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 handfuls  of  Madder 
— The  size  of  a Knor  of  Paste  Cudbear — 1 spoon- 
ful of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  22.  14  Pieces , } MOREENS.— DARKER 
FAWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 spoonfuls  of  Liquid 
Extract — 4 handfuls  of  Madder — 1 handful  of  Paste 
Cudbear.  Boil  to  shade.  If  a darker  shade  is 
required,  add  more  Extract. 

No.  23.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— CINNAMON 
BROWN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped 
Fustic — 2 lbs.  of  Camwood — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 2 lbs.  of  Red  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of 
Madder. 


108 


MOREEN  DYEING. 


No.  24.  15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— DARKER 
CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Dye  with  50  lbs.  of  Old  Rasped  Fustic — 15  lbs. 
of  Super  Argol — 25  lbs.  of  Alum — 4 lbs.  of  Red 
Argol — 2J  lbs.  of  Camwood,  or  a handful  of  Cud- 
bear may  be  used  in  the  place  of  Camwood,  which 
will  produce  the  same  effect.  Boil  1J  hour.  If  a 
flatter  shade  is  required,  add  a spoonful  of  Liquid 
Extract. 

No.  25.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— MIDDLE 

GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  8 lbs.  of  White  Argol 
- — 15  lbs.  of  Alum — 1 gill  of  Chemic — 20  lbs.  of 
Fustic.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  26.  15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— DARK  GREEN. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Alum 
— 1 pint  of  Chemic — 25  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Boil  1 hour. 
Darker  shades  of  Green  must  have  more  Chemic, 
and  if  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  more  Fustic. 

No.  27.  15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— LIGHT 
GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  15  lbs.  of  Alum — 8 lbs. 
of  White  Argol — 15  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic — 1 Tot 
of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  28.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— DARKER 
GREEN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Alum — 20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 8 
lbs.  of  White  Argol — 2 Tots  of  Liquid  Extract. 
Boil  1 hour.  If  the  shade  is  required  Bluer,  add  a 
little  more  Extract,  and  if  Yellower,  a little  more 
Fustic. 


MOREEN  DYEING. 


109 


No.  29.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT 
SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 2 
quarts  of  Oil  of  Yitriol — 2 ozs.  of  Prussiate — 1 Tot 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil 
1 hour. 

No.  30.  15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— DARK 
SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 2 
quarts  of  Oil  of  Yitriol — 1 ozs.  of  Prussiate — 1 Tot 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 3 gills  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil 
1 hour.  If  darker  shades  are  required,  add  more 
Liquid  Extract. 

No.  31.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  RED 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of  Alum — 4 lbs. 
of  Brown  Tartar — 1 J lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 4 quarts 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  32.  15  Pieces , j MOREENS. — FULL  RED 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Alum. — 6 lbs. 
of  Brown  Tartar — 2J  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 10 
pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  33.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT  ROSE 
COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 4 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 2 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 pints 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  40  minutes. 


10 


110 


MOREEN  DYEING. 


No.  34.  15  Pieces, , f MOREENS. — FULL  ROSE 
COLOR. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 5 lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 1 quarts  of  Nitrate  of 
Tin — 2 lbs.  of  Alum.  Boil  1 hour.  If  Bluer  shades 
are  required,  let  one-half  of  the  Cochineal  be  Paste, 
and  the  other  half  Dry,  and  rather  less  Spirits. 

No.  35.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— LIGHT 
SALMON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
—5  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar — 5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin. 
Boil  50  minutes. 

No.  36.  15  Pieces , f MOREENS.— FULL 
SALMON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  8 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal 
— 10  pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 6 lbs.  of  Tartar.  Boil 
1 hour.  If  a Yellower  shade  is  required,  add  4 ozs. 
of  Ground  Fustic. 

No.  37.  15  Pieces , } MOREENS.— LIGHT  PINK. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  ozs.  of  Paste  Coch- 
ineal— 5 lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  White  Tartar — 4 
pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  38,  15  Pieces,  f MOREENS.— FULL  PINK. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 J lb.  of  Paste  Coch- 
ineal— 4 lbs.  of  Alum — 4 lbs.  of  White  Tartar — 6 
pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  1 hour.  Lighter  or 
darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  more  or  less 
Paste  Cochineal  with  the  same  quantity  of  Acid. 


TWO  COLORED  DAMASK 
DYEING. 


No.  1.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND  PINK. 

In  this  color,  the  worsted  must  be  first  dyed  Scar- 
let in  a clean  vessel  with  12  lbs.  of  Lac  Dye — 
12  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 10  lbs.  of  Young 
Fustic — 8 lbs.  of  White  Argol  or  Brown  Tartar. 
Boil  1 hour.  The  Pieces  must  then  be  well  cleaned, 
and  then  Cotton  Dyed  with  Safflower.  A light 
shade  of  Pink  will  take  1 lb.  of  Safflower  to  a Piece, 
and  a dark  shade  1 \ lb.  It  must  be  spent  according 
to  Receipt  68,  page  49.  The  clear  Liquor  must  be 
put  into  a cistern  of  cold  water,  with  about  1 pint 
of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  1 lb.  of  Tartaric  Acid.  The 
goods  must  then  be  entered,  and  turned  on  in  the 
Liquor  until  dyed  to  shade  required.  If  a Blue 
shade  of  Pink  is  required,  rather  less  Oil  of  Vitriol 
must  be  used,  and  if  a Redder  shade,  more  must  be 
used.  Any  shade  of  Pink  may  be  dyed  by  adding 
more  or  less  of  the  clear  Safflower  Liquor.  Various 
shades  of  Pink  may  be  dyed  from  Peachwood,  but 
none  are  equal  to  the  Pink  dyed  with  Safflower, 
when  Scarlet  and  Pink  are  in  the  Piece  together. 

No.  2.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND  YELLOW. 

The  Pieces  in  these  two  colors  must  be  first  dyed 
Scarlet  the  same  as  in  the  last  color,  with  the  same 

111 


112 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


quantity  of  ingredients,  and  then  washed  and  Cotton 
dyed  either  through  the  Padding  Machine  or  in  a 
cistern  of  cold  or  lukewarm  water,  with  about  1 lb. 
of  Turmeric  to  the  Piece,  more  or  less,  according  to 
shade  of  Yellow  required.  The  Turmeric  must  be 
boiled  up  with  a little  Oil  of  Vitriol;  use  about  1 lb. 
of  Turmeric  to  1 gallon  of  water,  and  take  the  clear 
Liquor  only. 

No.  3.  10  Pieces, , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND  FLESH  COLOR. 

Worsted  Dye  in  Scarlet  same  as  No.  1,  and  Cotton 
Dye  either  at  the  Padding  Machine,  or  in  a clean 
vessel,  with  2 ozs.  of  Annotta  spent  with  2 quarts  of 
water  and  2 ozs.  of  Pearlash ; boil  well  for  a few 
minutes,  so  that  every  particle  be  dissolved.  Take 
the  clear  Liquor.  A great  variety  of  shades  of 
Cotton  may  be  dyed  by  varying  the  quantity  of 
Annotta,  according  to  shade,  using  more  for  dark 
and  less  for  light  shades. 

No.  4,  10  Pieces . f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCARLET  AND  SALMON. 

First  Worsted  Dye  in  all  respects  for  Scarlet 
same  as  No.  1,  and  Cotton  Dye  in  a clean  cistern  of 
cold  water  with  5 lbs.  of  spent  Safflower,  and  1 lb. 
of  Annotta,  spent  with  1 lb.  of  Pearlash.  Use  the 
clear  Liquor  only.  Give  10  Ends  and  wash  off. 

No.  5.  10  Pieces , £ DAMASKS.— SCARLET 
AND  ROSE  COLOR. 

First  Worsted  Dye  Scarlet  same  as  No.  1,  and 
Cotton  Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Annotta  spent  with  8 ozs. 
of  Pearlash,  and  the  clear  Liquor  from  6 lbs.  of  Saf- 
flower. Give  10  Ends,  and  wash  off  in  another  cis- 
tern of  cold  water,  with  1 pint  of  Oil  of  Vitriol  in  it. 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


118 


The  Oil  will  raise  both  the  Safflower  and  the  An- 
notta.  This  is  perhaps  one  of  the  finest  colors  that 
can  be  dyed,  more  especially  in  a two  colored  Da- 
mask possessing  great  brightness  and  beauty. 

No.  6.  10  Pieces , f DAMASKS. — LIGHT  GREEN 
AND  PINK. 

First  Worsted  Dye  Green  in  a clean  vessel  with 
8 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs. 
of  Alum — 1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  1 hour. 
Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  in  all  respects  the  same  as 
No.  1,  with  Safflower. 

- No.  7.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— MIDDLE  GREEN  AND  PINK. 

First  Worsted  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 10  lbs. 
of  Red  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Alum — 1 pint  of  Chemic. 
Boil  1 hour.  If  darker  shades  of  Green  are  wanted, 
add  more  Chemic  according  to  shade.  Cotton  Dye 
same  as  No.  1,  with  Safflower. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GREEN  AND  YELLOW. 

This  must  be  first  Worsted  Dyed  according  to 
shade,  and  then  washed  and  Cotton  dved  the  same 
as  No.  2,  with  Turmeric. 

No.  9.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GREEN  AND  SALMON. 

Worsted  Dye  to  the  shade  of  Green  in  the  same 
way  as  No.  7,  using  more  or  less  Extract  according 
to  shade  required,  and  Cotton  Dye  in  all  respects 
same  as  No.  4. 


10* 


114 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


N o.  10.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SAXON  BLUE  AND  ROSE 
COLOR. 

First  Worsted  Dje  Saxon  Blue  in  a clean  vessel 
with  20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol 
— 2 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash — 1 tot  Nitrate  of 
Tin — 1 pint  of  Liquid  Extract.  Wash  and  Cotton  Dye 
in  all  respects  the  same  as  No.  5,  with  Safflower  and 
Annotta.  A great  variety  of  shades  may  be  dyed  in 
these  two  colors,  by  dyeing  different  shades  of  Blue 
and  varying  the  coloring  of  the  Cotton  as  well. 

No.  11.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— SKY  BLUE  AND  PINK.— 

Worsted  dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of 
Crystals — 3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 2 ozs.  of  Prus- 
siate— 2 spoonfuls  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  40 
minutes.  Wash  and  Cotton  dye  with  Safflower  ac- 
cording to  shade  required,  the  same  as  No.  1. 

No.  12.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WORSTED 

DAMASKS.— SKY  BLUE  AND  PINK. 

ANOTHER  WAY. 

Worsted  dye  in  all  respects  the  same  as  No.  10. 
And  Cotton  dye  by  first  Sumacing  the  pieces  with 
2 lbs.  of  Sumac  to  the  piece;  run  the  pieces  in  the 
Sumac  in  the  troughs  6 ends,  then  give  6 ends  in 
Muriate  of  Tin,  at  4°  Twaddell,  in  another  trough, 
then  wash  and  dye  with  Peachwood  Liquor  accord- 
ing to  shade,  either  in  the  troughs,  or  at  the  Padding 
Machine,  or  in  a cistern  of  cold  water.  A good  full 
Pink  will  require  about  1J  lb.  of  Peachwood  to  a 
piece.  Lighter  or  darker  shades  may  be  dyed  by 
adding  more  or  less  Peachwood  according  to  the 
shade. 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


115 


No.  18.  10  Pieces , $ COTTON  AND  WORSTED 

DAMASKS.— BLUES  AND  CRIMSON  OF 
DIFFERENT  SORTS. 

Dye  the  Worsted  first  a good  Sky  or  Saxon  Blue; 
or  Royal  Blue,  if  a very  dark  and  bright  Blue  is 
required;  wash  well  and  Cotton  dye  same  as  No.  10, 
only  use  more  Peachwood  Liquor.  When  a very 
full  shade  of  Crimson  is  required,  the  Pieces  should 
be  Sumaced  as  before,  and  then  passed  through  Ni- 
trate of  Iron,  a few  Ends,  in  another  trough  or 
cistern ; use  about  2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  for 
the  10  Pieces.  Then  run  in  the  Peachwood  Liquor 
after  running  them  8 Ends,  take  up,  and  add  2 
quarts  of  good  Muriate  of  Tin  to  raise  the  Peach- 
wood and  brighten  the  color.  By  this  mode  the 
fullest  shades  of  Crimson  may  be  dyed.  It  is  the 
Nitrate  of  Iron  that  gives  it  the  more  fullness,  and 
causes  it  to  be  darker  with  the  same  quantity  of 
Peachwood. 

No.  14.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— GREEN  AND  CRIMSON. 

First  dye  Green  according  to  shade,  same  as  No. 
8,  and  Cotton  dye  in  all  respects  the  same  as  No.  12. 
The  shade  of  color  may  be  varied  by  dyeing  the 
Worsted  lighter  or  darker,  and  the  same  with  re- 
spect to  the  Cotton.  It  is  impossible  to  give  an 
estimate  of  the  various  shades  produced  by  this 
variation. 

No.  15.  10  Pieces , f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— DARK  BLUE  AND  ORANGE. 

Worsted  Dye  first  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 quart 
of  good  Chemic — 20  lbs.  of  Crystals — 2 quarts  of 
Oil  of  Yitriol.  Boil  one  hour,  wash,  and  Cotton 


116 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


Dye  by  first  Sumacing  the  Pieces,  and  Spiriting 
them  the  same  as  No.  11.  Then  dye  the  Cotton 
with  2 lbs.  of  Peachwood  and  2 lbs.  of  Quercitron 
Bark  to  the  Piece.  This  will  very  much  imitate  the 
Royal  Blue  and  Orange,  but  will  not  be  so  bright  a 
color. 

No.  16.  10  Pieces, , f WORSTED  AND  COTTON 
DAMASKS.— DARK  AND  LIGHT  ORANGE. 

ANOTHER  METHOD. 

First  Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Crystals — 2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 1 quart  of 
Chemic— 2 lbs.  of  Cudbear.  Wash  well,  and  Cotton 
Dye  with  strong  Annotta  Liquor  previously  spent 
with  Pearlash.  The  Annotta  Orange  will  affect  the 
Worsted  more  than  the  Peachwood  Orange.  It  will 
tend  to  flatten  it,  and  the  reason  that  the  Cudbear  is 
given  in  Worsted  Dyeing  is  that  it  may  keep  up  the 
bloomy  appearance.  Various  shades  may  be  dyed 
upon  Cotton  from  Annotta,  varying  from  a light 
Straw  color  to  a Full  Orange ; when  the  color  is 
wanted  very  full,  the  Pieces  should  be  passed  through 
a weak  decoction  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  after  being  run 
in  the  Annotta. 

No.  17.  10  Pieces,  f COTTON  AND  WORSTED 
DAMASKS.— RUBY  AND  BLUE. 

First  Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs. 
of  Cudbear;  boil  20  minutes.  Clean  and  Cotton 
Dye  by  running  the  Pieces  in  the  Copperas  Vat, 
one,  two,  or  three  ends,  according  to  the  shade  of 
Blue  required ; then  run  the  Pieces  in  a weak  de- 
coction of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  at  about  100°  Fahrenheit, 
to  clear  the  Worsted  and  brighten  the  Cotton. 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


117 


No.  18.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WOBSTED 
DAMASKS.— YELLOW  AND  BLUE. 

First  Cotton  Dye  in  the  Copperas  Yat,  clean  well, 
and  then  Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  10 
pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 10  lbs.  of  Quercitron  Bark 
■ — 6 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 4 lbs.  of  Alum.  Boil 

twenty  minutes. 

«/ 

No.  19.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WOBSTED 
DAMASKS.— OBANGE  AND  BLUE. 

Cotton  dye  Blue  first,  in  the  Copperas  Yat,  accord- 
ing to  the  shade  required.  Then  wash,  and  Worsted 
dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  6 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 
1J  lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 
10  pints  of  Spirits.  Boil  forty  minutes. 

No.  20.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WOBSTED 
DAMASKS.— SCABLET  AND  COMMON  BLUE. 

First  Worsted  dye  a good  Scarlet,  same  as  No.  1, 
and  Cotton  dye  by  passing  a few  ends  through  the 
Copperas  Yat,  and  then  clear  in  a vessel  of  warm 
water  with  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Yitriol  in  it.  This  color 
is  not  so  bright  as  the  Scarlet  and  Boyal  Blue,  or 
what  is  called  Coffee  and  Blue.  I shall  next  insert 
two  methods  of  dyeing  Coffee  and  Boyal  Blue,  for 
the  information  of  those  who  have  so  often  had 
these  colors  so  uneven  and  dead,  from  a want  of  a 
proper  method  of  dyeing  them. 

No.  21.  10  Pieces , £ COTTON  AND  WOBSTED 
DAMASKS.— COFFEE  AND  BOYAL  BLUE. 

The  Worsted  must  be  first  dyed  a good  bright 
Scarlet,  the  same  in  every  respect  as  No.  1.  Then 
Cotton  dye  by  passing  through  strong  Nitrate  of 
Iron  in  the  troughs,  at  4°  Twaddell,  and  to  which 


118 


DAMASK  DYEING. 


add  2 lbs.  of  Tin  Crystals.  In  this  turn  4 ends,  and 
in  another  trough,  with  2 quarts  of  Ammonia,  pass 
through  this  out  of  the  Iron,  and  repeat  in  each 
trough  two  or  three  times,  until  a Buff  appearance 
is  seen  ; then  wash  well.  In  another  trough,  or  at 
the  Padding  Machine,  add  10  lbs.  of  Prussiate  of 
Potash,  previously  dissolved ; in  this  give  6 ends, 
and  then  add  1 pint  of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  and  give  the 
Pieces  6 ends  more.  Wash  off  for  the  Dry  Machine. 
Then  you  have  a good  full  Eoyal  Blue  upon  the 
Cotton.  This  will  produce  a good  bright  color,  and 
if  a lighter  shade  is  required,  give  less  Prussiate. 
Another  mode  of  dyeing  the  Blue  is  by  dyeing  it 
after  Buffing  it,  the  same  as  dyeing  Royal  Blue  with 
Blue  Spirits  and  Prussiate.  But  the  brightest  is  by 
first  running  the  Pieces  in  Sumac,  about  2 lbs.  to  the 
Piece,  and  a little  Logwood  with  it,  and  then  going 
through  all  the  process,  as  stated  in  the  first  mode. 
In  this  latter  method,  the  Cotton  gets  a quantity  of 
Logwood  upon  it  which  is  risen  to  a sort  of  Claret 
when  it  enters  the  Nitrate  of  Iron  and  the  Crystals 
of  Tin,  the  Iron  working  up  the  darkness  of  the 
Logwood,  and  the  Crystals  of  Tin  producing  the 
bloom.  It  is  by  this  means  that  this  is  so  much 
brighter  and  more  bloomy  than  the  other  with  the 
same  quantity  of  Prussiate.  I think  I have  given 
as  many  shades  in  single  and  two  colored  Damasks 
as  are  generally  dyed,  and  from  these  any  dyer  may, 
by  varying  the  quantities,  obtain  a great  variety 
more. 


CAMLET  DYEING. 


«~THE  FOLLOWING  PIECES  ARE  ALL  FOUR- 
QUARTERS. 

No.  1.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— SCARLET. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Lac — 10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 15  lbs.  of  Brown 
or  White  Tartar — 15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil 
1J  hour,  after  which  they  must  be  well  cleaned. 

No.  2.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— LIGHT 
ORANGE. 

Dye  at  boiling  in  a clean  vessel  with  15  lbs.  of 
Brown  Tartar — 15  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 15  quarts 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 4 ozs.  of  Cochineal.  Boil  1 hour, 
after  which,  clean  well  and  dry  off. 

No.  3.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— FULL 
. ORANGE. 

Dye  at  a boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  15 
lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar  or 
White  Argol — 1 lb.  of  Cochineal — -15  quarts  of  Ni- 
trate of  Tin.  Boil  1 hour,  alter  which,  clean  and 
dry  off. 

No.  4.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Dye  at  a boiling  heat,  with  10  lbs.  of  Quercitron 
Bark — 10  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 12  lbs.  of  Brown 
Tartar.  Boil  one  hour  and  then  clean  and  dry  oft'. 

119 


120 


CAMLET  DYEING. 


No.  5.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Dye  at  a boiling  beat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Young  Fustic— 15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 15 
lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar.  Boil  one  hour,  and  then 
clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  6.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— GRAIN  CRIM- 
SON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal 
— 10  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tar- 
tar— 15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  one  hour, 
and  then  wash  off.  If  fuller  shades  are  wanted,  add 
more  Cochineal ; if  Bluer  shades  are  required,  add 
more  Paste  Cochineal:  and  the  same  quantity  of 
other  ingredients. 

No.  7.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— ASH  DRAB. 

Dye  at  a boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Super  Argol — 2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid — 1 lb. 
of  Mull  Madder — 1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear — f of  a 
gill  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  one  hour,  and  then 
clean  and  wash  off.  Lighter  or  darker  shades  may 
be  dyed  by  adding  more  or  less  Extract ; when  a 
Redder  shade  is  required,  add  a little  more  Paste 
Cudbear. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
• — 2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid — \ lb.  of  Paste  Cud- 
bear— 1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  one  hour  and 
then  wash  off. 

No.  9.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— FAWN 
DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 
2 quarts  of  Sulohuric  Acid — 8 ozs.  of  Paste  Cudbear 


CAMLET  EYEING. 


121 


— 6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract — 2 lbs.  of  Mull 
Madder.  Boil  one  hour.  If  darker  shades  are  re- 
quired, add  more  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  10.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— SAXON 
BLUE. 

Dye  at  a boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Crystals — 2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid — 3 gills  of 
Liquid  Extract — 4 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash — 1 
Tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  one  hour,  and  then 
clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  11.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— MAROON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  at  boiling  heat  with  20  lbs. 
of  Cudbear — 10  lbs.  of  Camwood — 1 gill  of  Sul- 
phuric Acid.  Boil  one  hour.  For  fuller  and  Red- 
der shades  add  more  Camwood  and  a little  more 
Sulphuric  Acid.  This  color  might  be  dyed  by  first 
being  boiled  and  finished  in  the  same  way  as  Mock 
Maroon,  or  Mock  Crimson,  but  is  not  so  permanent 
as  by  this  Receipt. 

No.  12.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

Dye  at  a boiling  heat  with  40  lbs.  of  Camwood — 
1 pint  of  Chemic — 10  lbs.  of  Turmeric — 3 pints  of 
Sulphuric  Acid — 20  lbs.  Super  Argol.  Boil  two 
hours. 

No.  13.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS— DARK  BROWN. 

Dye  with  60  lbs.  of  Camwood — 3 pints  of  Chemic 
— 20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 3 pints  of  Sulphuric 
Acid — 10  lbs.  Turmeric.  Boil  2 hours.  Less  Cam- 
wood will  dye  the  same  shade  when  the  vessel  is 
seasoned,  by  dyeing  a similar  color  before  it.  Cam- 
wood requires  to  be  well  boiled  to  get  the  strength 
out  of  it,  and  also  requires  a strong  Acid. 

11 


122 


CAMLET  DYEING. 


No.  14.  10  Pieces , CAMLETS.— CLARE! 
BROWN. 

First  boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs  i£ 
Chrome.  Then  wash  and  finish  in  another  vessel 
with  8 ozs.  of  Alum — 8 ozs.  of  Logwood — 20  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 80  lbs.  of  Peachwood.  Boil  1 hour  in  the 
finishing,  then  clean  and  dry  off.  Lighter  or  darker 
shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  or  diminishing  the 
quantity  of  Logwood,  according  to  the  shade  re- 
quired. A very  small  quantity  of  Logwood  will 
make  a great  difference  in  the  shade.  By  adding  1 
oz.  more  to  each  Piece,  it  will  be  much  darker.  The 
same  shade  of  color  may  be  dyed  with  Camwood, 
Chemic,  and  Acid,  but  it  is  more  expensive,  and 
sometimes  the  fabric  is  made  tender  by  this  process. 

No.  15.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— LIGHT 
PURPLE. 

Boil  8 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of  Alum 
— 10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol — 10  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Wash 
well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Cud- 
bear— 5 quarts  of  Ammonia.  Clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  16.  10  Pieces,  LONG  CAMLETS. 

MIDDLE  PURPLE. 

Boil  8 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of  Alum 
—10  lbs.  of  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Clean 
well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Cud- 
bear— 6 quarts  of  Ammonia.  If  a Bluer  shade  of 
Purple  is  required,  add  more  Ammonia  in  the 
finishing,  and  when  a Red  shade  is  required,  add  no 
Ammonia  in  the  finishing. 


CAMLET  DYEING. 


123 


No.  17.  10  Pieces, , LONG  CAMLETS. 

DARK  PURPLE. 

This  color  is  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as  the 
last,  but  must  have  more  Logwood  in  the  boiling, 
and  a little  more  Ammonia  in  the  finishing  in  order 
to  raise  the  Logwood. 

No.  18.  10  Pieces,  CAMLETS.— ANOTHER 
MODE  OF  DYEING  PURPLES. 

Boil  40  minutes  with  2 lbs.  ©f  Chrome  in  a clean 
vessel,  then  wash  well,  and  finish  in  another  vessel 
of  clean  water  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear  and  10  lbs. 
of  Logwood.  Clean  and  dry  off.  Any  shade  of 
Purple  may  be  dyed  in  this  manner,  using  more 
Logwood  for  darker  and  less  for  lighter  shades. 

No.  19.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS. 

BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of 
Chrome — 2 lbs.  of  Argol.  Finish  in  another  vessel 
with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  20.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS. 

FULL  BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of 
Chrome — 2 lbs.  of  Argol.  Finish  in  another  vessel 
with  50  lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Fustic.  If 
not  dark  enough,  add  a few  pounds  more  Logwood. 

No.  21.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

In  a clean  vessel  of  water  add  15  lbs.  of  Prussiate 
of  Potash — 15  quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits.  Heat 
up  to  100°,  enter  the  Pieces,  and  turn  them  half  an 
hour ; take  them  on  to  the  wench,  and  heat  the  Li- 


124 


CAMLET  DYEING. 


quor  up  to  140°,  and  put  the  Pieces  into  the  Liquor 
again,  and  turn  them  half  an  hour  more.  Again 
take  them  to  the  wench,  then  heat  the  liquor  up  to 
180°,  and  add  2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits.  Put 
the  Pieces  down  again,  and  turn  half  an  hour  more. 
After  which  take  them  out  of  the  vessel,  cool  them 
over,  heat  the  Liquor  up  to  boiling  point,  and  add  3 
quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits ; enter  the  Pieces  again, 
boil  half  an  hour,  and  then  take  out.  The  Pieces 
will  then  be  a good  Light  Royal  Blue.  If  a darker 
shade  is  required,  add  2 quarts  more  Finishing 
Spirits,  and  1 2,  or  3 lbs.  or  more  or  less,  Logwood, 
according  to  the  shade  of  darkness  required ; enter 
the  pieces  again,  and  boil  them  half  an  hour  more. 
Then  take  them  out,  cool  them  over,  and  clean  off 
for  the  drying  machine.  The  Logwood  will  produce 
a bloomy  appearance,  and  make  the  color  darker. 

No.  22.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS.— GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum — 15 
lbs.  of  White  Argol — 40  lbs.  of  Chipped  Fustic — 1 
pint  of  Chemic.  Boil  1J  hour. 

No.  23.  10  Pieces , LONG  CAMLETS. 
BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum — 15 
lbs.  of  White  Argdd — 50  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic — 2 or  3 
lbs.  of  Logwood — 3 quarts  of  Chemic.  Boil  1 J hour. 


LASTING  DYEING. 


IglPTHE  FOLLOWING  PIECES  ARE  ALL  THREE- 
QUARTERS. 

No.  1.  20  Pieces,  BASTINGS.— LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Dye  at  boiling  beat,  with  10  lbs.  of  Quercitron 
Bark — 10  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 12  lbs.  of 
Brown  Tartar.  Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean  and  dry 
off. 

No.  2.  20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— FULL  YELLOW. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Young  Fustic — 15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 15 
lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar.  Boil  1 hour,  then  clean  and 
dry  off 

No.  3.  20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid — \ lb.  of  Paste  Cud- 
bear— 1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  1 hour,  and 
then  wash  off 

No.  4.  20  Pieces,  BASTINGS.— ASH  DRAB. 
Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Super  Argol — 2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid — 1 lb. 
of  Mull  Madder — 1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear — § of  a 
gill  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  one  hour,  and  then 
clean  and  wash  off  Lighter  or  darker  shades  may 

11* 


125 


126 


LASTING  DYEING. 


be  dyed  by  adding  more  or  less  Extract ; when  a 
Redder  shade  is  required,  add  a little  more  Paste 
Cudbear. 

No.  5.  20  Pieces , EASTINGS. — FAWN  DRAB. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol 
— 2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid — 8 ozs.  of  Paste  Cud- 
bear— 6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract — 2 lbs.  of  Mull 
Madder.  Boil  1 hour.  If  darker  shades  are  re- 
quired, add  more  Liquid  Extract. 

No.  6.  20  Pieces,  EASTINGS.— SAXON  BLUE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Crystals — 2 quarts  of  Sulphuric  Acid — 8 gills  of 
Liquid  Extract — 4 ozs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash — 1 
Tot  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  1 hour,  and  then  clean 
and  dry  off. 

No.  7.  20  Pieces , EASTINGS.— GRAIN 
CRIMSON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  5 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochi- 
neal— 10  lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 15  lbs.  of  Brown 
Tartar — 15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil  1 hour, 
and  then  wash  off  If  fuller  shades  are  wanted,  add 
more  Cochineal ; if  Bluer  shades  are  required,  add 
more  Paste  Cochineal : and  the  same  quantity  of 
other  ingredients. 

No.  8.  20  Pieces , EASTINGS.— SCARLET. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  20  lbs. 
of  Lac — 10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 15  lbs.  of  Brown 
or  White  Tartar — 15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin.  Boil 
1J  hour,  after  which  they  must  be  well  cleaned. 

No.  9.  20  Pieces , EASTINGS.— LIGHT  ORANGE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a clean  vessel  with  15  lbs. 
of  Brown  Tartar — 15  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 15 


LASTING  DYEING. 


127 


quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 4 ozs.  of  Cochineal.  Boil 
1 hour,  after  which  clean  well  and  dry  off. 

No.  10.  10  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— FULL  ORANGE. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  in  a dean  vessel  with  15  lbs. 
of  Young  Fustic— -15  lbs.  of  Brown  Tartar  or  White 
Argol — 1 lb.  of  Cochineal — 15  quarts  of  Nitrate  of 
Tin.  Boil  1 hour,  after  which  clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  11.  20  Pieces , BASTINGS.— MAROON. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  at  boiling  heat  with  20  lbs. 
of  Cudbear — 10  lbs.  of  Camwood — 1 gill  of  Sul- 
phuric Acid.  Boil  1 hour.  For  fuller  and  Redder 
shades  add  more  Camwood  and  a little  more  Sul- 
phuric Acid.  This  color  might  be  dyed  by  first 
being  boiled  and  finished  in  the  same  way  as  Mock 
Maroon,  or  Mock  Crimson  but  is  not  so  permanent  as 
by  this  Receipt. 

No.  12.  20  Pieces,  BASTINGS.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

Dye  at  boiling  heat  with  40  lbs.  of  Camwood — - 
1 pint  of  Chemic — 10  lbs.  of  Turmeric — 3 pints  of 
Sulphuric  Acid — 20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol.  Boil  two 
hours. 

No.  13.  20  Pieces,  BASTINGS.— GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum — 15 
lbs.  of  White  Argol — 40  lbs.  Chipped  Fustic — 1 
pint  of  Chemic.  Boil  1J  hour. 

No.  14.  20  Pieces,  BASTINGS.— BOTTLE 
GREEN. 

Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  40  lbs.  of  Alum — 15 
lbs.  of  White  Argol — 50  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic — 2 or  3 
lbs.  of  Logwood — 3 quarts  of  Chemic.  Boil  1J 
hour. 


128 


LASTING  DYEING. 


No.  15.  20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of 
Chrome — 2 lbs.  of  Argol.  Finish  in  another  vessel 
with  40  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  16.  20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— FULL  BLACK. 

Boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of 
Chrome — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — Finish  in  another  vessel 
with  50  lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Fustic.  If  not 
dark  enough,  add  a few  pounds  more  Logwood. 

No.  17.  20  Pieces,  LASTINGS.— CLARET 
BROWN. 

First  boil  40  minutes  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs. 
of  Chrome — -then  wash  and  finish  in  another  vessel 
with  8 ozs.  of  Alum — 8 ozs.  of  Logwood — 20  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 80  lbs.  of  Peachwood.  Boil  1 hour  in  the 
finishing,  then  clean  and  dry  off.  Lighter  or  darker 
shades  may  be  dyed  by  adding  or  diminishing  the 
quantity  of  Logwood,  according  to  the  shade  required. 
A very  small  quantity  of  Logwood  will  make  a great 
difference  in  the  shade.  By  adding  1 oz.  more  to 
each  Piece,  it  will  be  much  darker.  The  same  shade 
of  color  may  be  dyed  with  Camwood,  Chemic,  and 
Acid,  but  it  is  more  expensive,  and  sometimes  the 
fabric  is  made  tender  by  this  process. 

No.  18.  20  Pieces,  LASTINGS. -DARK  BROWN. 

Dye  with  60  lbs.  of  Camwood — 8 pints  of  Chemic 
—20  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 8 pints  of  Sulphuric  Acid 
— 10  lbs.  of  Turmeric.  Boil  2 hours.  Less  Cam- 
wood will  dye  the  same  shade  when  the  vessel  is 
seasoned,  by  dyeing  a similar  color  before  it.  Cam- 
wood requires  to  be  well  boiled  to  get  the  strength 
out  of  it,  and  also  requires  a strong  Acid. 


LASTING  DYEING. 


129 


No.  19.  20  Pieces,  HASTINGS.— LIGHT  PUR- 
PLE. 

Boil  3 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of  Alum 
— 10  lbs.  of  Red  Argol — 10  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Wash 
well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs.  of  Cud- 
bear— 5 quarts  of  Ammonia.  Clean  and  dry  off. 

No.  20.  20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— MIDDLE 
PURPLE. 

Boil  3 hours  in  a clean  vessel  with  50  lbs.  of 
Alum — 10  lbs.  of  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Logwood — - 
Clean  well,  and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  10  lbs. 
of  Cudbear — 6 quarts  of  Ammonia.  If  a Bluer 
shade  of  Purple  is  required,  add  more  Ammonia  in 
the  finishing,  and  when  a Red  shade  is  required,  add 
no  Ammonia  in  the  finishing. 

No.  21.  20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— DARK 
PURPLE. 

This  color  is  dyed  in  all  respects  the  same  as  the 
last,  but  must  have  more  Logwood  in  the  boiling, 
and  a little  more  Ammonia  in  the  finishing,  in  order 
to  raise  the  Logwood. 

No.  22.  20  Pieces , LASTINGS.— ROYAL  BLUE. 

In  a clean  vessel  of  water  add  15  lbs.  of  Prussiate 
of  Potash — 15  quarts  of  Royal  Blue  Spirits.  Heat 
up  to  100°,  enter  the  Pieces,  and  turn  them  half  an 
hour ; take  them  on  to  the  wench,  and  heat  the  Liquor 
up  to  140°,  and  put  the  Pieces  into  the  Liquor 
again,  and  turn  them  half  an  hour  more.  Again 
take  them  on  to  the  wench,  then  heat  the  Liquor  up 
to  180°,  and  add  2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits. 
Put  the  Pieces  down  again,  and  turn  half  an  hour 
more.  After  which,  take  them  out  of  the  vessel, 


130 


LASTING  DYEING. 


cool  them  over,  heat  the  Liquor  up  to  the  boiling 
point,  and  add  3 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits ; enter 
the  Pieces  again,  and  boil  them  half  an  hour,  and 
then  take  out.  The  Pieces  will  then  be  a good 
Light  Royal  Blue.  If  a darker  shade  is  required, 
add  2 quarts  more  Finishing  Spirits,  and  1,  2,  or  3 
lbs.,  or  more  or  less,  Logwood,  according  to  the 
shade  of  the  darkness  required;  enter  the  Pieces 
again  and  boil  them  half  an  hour  more.  Then  take 
them  out,  cool  them  over,  and  clean  off  for  the 
drying  machine.  The  Logwood  will  produce  a 
bloomy  appearance,  and  make  the  color  darker. 

No.  23.  20  Pieces, , LASTINGS.— ANOTHER 
MODE  OF  DYEING  PURPLES. 

Boil  40  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome  in  a clean 
vessel,  then  wash  well,  and  finish  in  another  vessel 
of  clean  water  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear  and  10  lbs. 
of  Logwood.  Clean  and  dry  off.  Any  shade  of 
Purple  may  be  dyed  in  this  manner,  using  more 
Logwood  for  darker,  and  less  for  lighter  shades. 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


ORLEANS  ARE  DYED  IN  THE  SAME  WAY  AS 
COBOURGS. 

No.  1.  10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— BLUE 
AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 Tots  of  Liquid  Extract — 3 
pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of  Crystals.  Clean 
and  Cotton  Dye  with  1 pint  of  Spent  or  Bottled 
Safflower — 1 Tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Then  wash  off. 

No.  2.  10  Pieces,  £ SHOT  COBOURGS.— YEL- 
LOW AND  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of 
White  Argol — 5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 7J  lbs. 
of  Young  Fustic.  Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  by  first 
running  them  20  minutes  through  Nitrate  of  Iron 
Liquor,  3 gills  to  a Piece,  then  through  1J  lb.  of 
melted  Prussiate  of  Potash  in  a separate  vessel  6 
ends ; then  take  up  and  add  1 gill  of  Oil  of  Vitriol, 
run  8 ends,  and  then  clean  off. 

No.  3.  10  Pieces,  £ SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
ORANGE  AND  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  Argol — 5 pints  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin — 10  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 1J  lb.  of 
Cochineal.  Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  2. 


131 


182 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


No.  4.  10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— 

CRIMSON  AND  BLUE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Argol — 5 pints  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin — 5 lbs.  of  Cochineal.  Cotton  Dye 
same  as  No.  2. 

No.  5.  10  Pieces,  £ SHOT  COBOURGS.— RUBY 
AND  BLUE. 

W orsted . Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear.  Cotton 
Dye  same  as  No.  2.  Darker  shades  of  Blue  may  be 
got  by  adding  more  Prussiate. 

No.  6.  10  Pieces,  f SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
LAVENDER  AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 Tots  of  Liquid  Extract — 

1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear — 3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 
10  lbs.  of  Crystals.  Cotton  Dye  by  first  running 
them  through  20  lbs.  of  Sumac,  8 ends,  then  through 

2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron ; clean,  and  run  them 
through  2 pailfuls  of  strong  Peach  wood  Liquor,  then 
through  3 pints  of  Orlean  Spirits,  and  clean  off. 

No.  7.  10  Pieces,  f SHOT  COBOURGS.— GREEN 
AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 Tots  of  Liquid  Extract — 
20  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic — 10  lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of 
Argol.  Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  6,  or  No.  1. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces,  f SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
LAVENDER  AND  CRIMSON. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2J  Tots  of  Liquid  Extract — 

3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of  Crystals.  To 
Cotton  Dye  them,  Sumac  and  Spirit  them,  then  run 
through  Peach  wood  Liquor,  and  Spirit  again. 


HOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


133 


No.  9.  10  Pieces , £ SHOT  COBOURGS.— DARK 
SKY  AND  CRIMSON. 

Worsted  Dye  as  No.  8,  but  add  2 Tots  more  of 
Liquid  Extract.  Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  8,  but 
with  stronger  Peachwood  Liquor. 

No.  10.  10  Pieces , £ SHOT  COBOURGS.— LIGHT 
GREEN  AND  SALMON. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 Tot  of  Liquid  Extract — 10 
lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic. 
Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  8,  but  with  less  Peachwood 
Liquor. 

No.  11.  10  Pieces , £ SHOT  COBOURGS.— 

GREEN  AND  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  3 Tots  of  Liquid  Extract — 10 
lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — 30  lbs.  of  Fustic. 
Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  6. 

No.  12.  10  Pieces , SHOT  COBOURGS.— GREEN 
AND  CLARET 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 pint  of  Chemic — 10  lbs.  of 
Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Fustic.  Cotton 
Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumac,  then  in  Iron  Liquor, 
and  then  in  Spirits,  8 ends  in  each ; clean  and  run 
them  in  a cistern  of  cold  water,  with  10  lbs.  of  spent 
Logwood,  and  clean  them. 

No.  13.  10  Pieces,  £ SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
GREEN  AND  PURPLE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 gill  of  Chemic — 20  lbs.  of 
Old  Fustic — 10  lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol.  Cot- 
ton Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumac,  then  through  1 
quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  then  in  a cistern  of  cold 
water,  with  10  lbs.  of  spent  Logwood  ; after  running 
12 


134 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


them  8 ends,  take  up  and  add  10  ozs.  of  Crystals  of 
Tin,  and  run  8 ends  more. 

No.  14.  10  Pieces , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
BLACK  AND  CBIMSON. 

Worsted  Dye  Black  in  the  following  manner: 
boil  24  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome,  then  run  them 
through  Sumac  and  Iron  separately,  clean,  and  finish 
with  50  lbs.  of  Logwood,  15  lbs.  of  Fustic,  2 lbs.  of 
Red  Argol,  and  boil  them  half  an  hour.  Similar 
shades  may  be  got,  but  not  equally  approved,  being 
dearer,  by  being  Sumaced  and  Ironed  first,  and  then 
Chromed.  The  Cotton  may  be  dyed  after  the  Wor- 
sted is  dyed  Black,  by  being  Sumaced,  Ironed,  and 
filled  up  with  Logwood,  which  for  coarse  rough 
Goods  is  perhaps  preferable.  Cotton  Dye  by  run- 
ning them  in  Sumac  and  Iron,  then  clean  ; boil  up 
20  lbs.  of  Peachwood  in  the  bottom  of  a cistern,  run 
8 ends,  then  take  up  and  add  3 quarts  of  Muriate  of 
Tin,  and  run  other  8 ends. 

No.  15.  10  Pieces,  -f  SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
LIGHT  OLIYE  AND  CRIMSON. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract 
—10  lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Fus- 
tic. Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  14. 

No.  16.  10  Pieces , SHOT  COBOURGS. 
ORANGE  AND  PURPLE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  2 lbs.  of  White  Argol— 5 pints 
of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 1J  lb.  of  Cochineal — 7J  lbs.  of 
Young  Fustic.  Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  13. 


SHOT  COBOURG  DYEING. 


135 


No.  17.  10  Pieces, , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
ROYAL  BLUE  AND  FULL  PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Prussiate — 10  pints 
of  Blue  Spirits — 5 pints  of  Finishing  Spirits.  Heat 
up,  according  to  No.  22  of  Hastings.  Cotton  Dye 
by  running  them  through  Sumac,  Iron,  and  Spirits, 
separately,  then  through  20  lbs.  of  spent  Peach- 
wood,  and  clean  them. 

No.  18.  10  Pieces, , f SHOT  COBOURGS.— 
GREEN  AND  ORANGE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 3 gills  of 
Chemic — 10  lbs.  of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Argol.  Clean, 
and  Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumac  and 
Spirits  separately,  and  then  boil  up  in  the  bottom 
of  a cistern  10  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 10  lbs.  of  Quer- 
citron Bark — 2 lbs.  of  Alum.  Run  them  10  ends. 
Lighter  or  Darker  shades  of  Orange  may  be  got  by 
adding  more  or  less  Peachwood. 


SILK  STRIPED  ORLEANS. 


FROM  BLACK,  WHITE,  AND  COLORED 
WARPS. 


No.  1.  6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— LIGHT 
OLIVE  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Turmeric — I lbs.  of  Logwood 
— 1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol.  Boil  40  minutes,  and  clean  off. 

No.  2.  6 Pieces,  £ SILK  STRIPES.— DARK 
OLIVE  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  12  ozs.  of  Chrome.  Clean 
and  finish  in  a clean  vessel  with  4 lbs.  of  Turmeric 
• — 1 J lb.  of  Logwood.  Boil  30  minutes,  and  clean  off. 

No.  3.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STRIPES.— BROWN 
OLIVE  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 4 lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood — 6 lbs.  of  Logwood — J lb.  Alum — 1 lb.  of 
Blue  Vitriol.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  4.  6 Pieces,  £ SILK  STRIPES.— RED 
BROWN  FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Alum 
— 1 lb.  of  Logwood — 2 lbs.  of  Turmeric.  Boil  40 
minutes. 

136 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


137 


No.  5.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STRIPES. — DARK 
CLARET  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  2 lbs.  of  Cud- 
bear— 6 lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood — 12 
ozs.  of  Alum.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  6.  6 Pieces, , £ SILK  STRIPES.— CHROMED 
BROWN,  PURPLE  WARP. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  2 lbs.  of 
Logwood — 12  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 12  ozs.  of  Alum. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  7.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STRIPES.— CLARET 
BROWN  FROM  CLARET  WARP. 

Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Alum. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  8.  6 Pieces, , £ SILK  STRIPES.— DARK 
CLARET  BROWN  FROM  CLARET  WARP. 
Dye  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 4 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood— 1 lb.  of  Alum — 1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  9.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STRIPES.— CHROMED 
CLARET  FROM  CLARET  PURPLE  WARP. 
Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  12  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Cudbear.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  10.  6 Pieces. , £ SILK  STRIPES.— DARK 
CLARET  FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 
Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  12  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — 1 lb.  of  Cudbear — 1 lb.  of  Logwood. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 


12* 


138 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


No.  11.  6 Pieces , } SILK  STKIPES.— RUBY 
FROM  VIOLET  WARP. 

Dye  with  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  12.  6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— LIGHT 
CLARET  FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 

Boil  1 hour  with  6 lbs.  of  Alum — 12  ozs.  of  Log- 
wood. Clean  and  finish  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood 
— 1 lb.  of  Cudbear.  Boil  20  minutes. 

No.  13.  6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— DARKER 
CLARET  FROM  CLARET  WARP. 

Boil  1 hour  with  6 lbs.  of  Alum — 3 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood. Clean  and  finish  with  12  lbs.  of  Peachwood 
— 1 lb.  of  Cudbear — 1 quart  of  Ammonia.  Boil 
20  minutes. 

No.  14.  6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— ADE- 
LAIDE FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  3 lbs.  of 
Cudbear— 2 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  15.  6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— DARK 
MULBERRY  FROM  BLACK  WARP. 
Chrome  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  4 lbs.  of  Logwood 
— 3 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 1 quart  of  Ammonia.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  16.  6 Pieces , SILK  STRIPES.— ADE- 
LAIDE FROM  BLACK  WARP. 

Chrome  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  2}  lbs.  of  Log- 
wood— 2 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 1 pint  of  Ammonia. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


139 


No.  17.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STKIPES. — VIOLET 
FROM  VIOLET  WARP. 

Run  2 ends  through  the  Copperas  Vat.  Finish 
with  4 lbs.  of  Cudbear.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  18.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STRIPES.— ROYAL 
BLUE  FROM  WHITE  WARP. 

First  prepare  the  Cotton  by  running  them  18  ends 
in  3 gallons  of  Nitrate  of  Iron,  then  clean  and 
Worsted  Dye  with  4J  lbs.  of  Prussiate — 4 quarts  of 
Blue  Spirits — 2 quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits.  Heat 
up  to  100°.  When  a Buffing  Machine  is  used,  much 
less  Iron  will  do. 

No.  19.  6 Pieces , SILK  £ STRIPES.— LAVENDER 
FROM  WHITE  WARP. 

First  run  1 end  in  the  Copperas  Vat,  then  Worsted 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  1 lb.  of  White  Argol. 
2 lbs.  of  Alum — 6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract — 
1 handful  of  Cudbear.  Redden  in  a cistern  of  cold 
water  with  2 quarts  of  Red  Liquor,  and  1 lb.  of  Spent 
Logwood. 

No.  20.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STRIPES.— RED 
BROWN  FROM  PURPLE  WARP. 

Chrome  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  6 lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood — 6 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 1 lb.  of  Alum.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  21.  6 Pieces , £ SILK  STRIPES.— GREEN 
FROM  WHITE  WARP. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 gill  of  Chemic — 12  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 6 lbs.  of  Alum — 1 lb.  of  Argol.  Clean  and 


140 


SILK  STRIPE  DYEING. 


Silk  Dye  with  a little  Sweet  Extract,  at  80°,  then 
Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  through  Sumac  and 
Iron  separately,  then  clean  again,  and  run  through 
8 lbs.  of  Spent  Logwood  in  cold  water. 

No.  22.  6 Pieces , f SILK  STRIPES.— SOLID 
GRAIN  PINK  FROM  WHITE  WARP. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 
2 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 5 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 
5 ozs.  of  Paste  Cochineal.  Clean  and  Cotton  Dye 
with  1 pint  of  spent  or  bottled  Safflower,  and  1 tot 
of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  in  a cistern  of  clean  water. 

ANOTHER  MODE. 

Cotton  and  Silk  Dye  together  by  running  them 
in  a little  Red  Liquor,  and  then  through  a little 
Cochineal  previously  scalded  and  settled,  and  use 
only  the  clear  Liquor.  In  this  instance,  the  Cotton, 
Silk,  and  Worsted  are  all  dyed  from  Cochineal,  a 
thing  I never  saw  or  knew  before  I tried  it. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  FROM 
BLACK  WARPS. 


No.  1.  10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— LIGHT  BROWN. 

First  run  8 ends  in  1 quart  of  Orleans  [Spirits. 
Clean  and  then  dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Turmeric — 10  lbs. 
of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood — 2 J lbs.  of  Blue 
Vitriol — 1 lb.  of  Alum.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  2.  10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— CHROMED 
BROWN. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome.  Clean  and 
finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 5 lbs.  of  Turmeric 
— J lb.  of  Alum.  Boil  half  an  hour 

No.  8.  10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— CLARET. 

Spirit  same  as  No.  1.  Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs. 
of  Alum — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Clean  and  finish  with 
12  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 quarts  of  Ammonia.  Boil 
half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 

No.  4.  10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— DARK 
CLARET. 

Spirit  same  as  No.  1.  Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs.  of 
Alum — 8 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Clean  and  finish  with 
12  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 3 quarts  of  Ammonia.  Boil 
half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


141 


142 


ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


No.  5.  10  Pieces , f ORLEANS.— BLUE 
CLARET. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  2 lbs,  of  Cud- 
bear— 10  lbs.  of  Peachwood.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  6.  10  Pieces,  £ ORLEANS.— VIOLET. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Cudbear.  Run  them  2 ends 
through  the  Copperas  Vat.  Boil  half  an  hour 

No.  7.  10  Pieces,  £ ORLEANS.— ADELAIDE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  4 lbs.  of  Cud- 
bear— 6 lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— DARK 
CLARET  BROWN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  20  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — 1 lb.  of  Logwood — 2 ozs.  of  Alum. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  9.  10  Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— DARK 
BROWN  OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  10  lbs.  of 
Turmeric — 10  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood. Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  10.  10  Pieces,  £ ORLEANS.— GREEN 
OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  20  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 4 lbs.  of  Logwood — 2 ozs.  of  Alum.  Boil 
40  minutes. 

No.  11.  10  Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— DARKER 
GREEN  OLIVE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Log- 
wood— 8 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 4 ozs.  of  Alum.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 


ORLEANS  FROM  BLACK  WARPS. 


143 


No.  12.  10  Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— CHROMED 
GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2.  Finish  with  20  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  13.  10  Pieces,  £ ORLEANS. — INVISIBLE 
GREEN. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  2,  Silk  Stripes.  Finish  with 
15  lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.,  of  Fustic.  Boil  half 
an  hour.  Lighter  or  Barker  shades  may  be  obtained 
by  using  more  or  less  Logwood. 

No.  14.  10  Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome.  Finish 
with  20  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  15.  10  Pieces , £ ORLEANS.— FULL  BLACK, 

Chrome  same  as  No.  14.  Finish  with  25  lbs.  of 
Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Fustic.  1 lb.  of  Red  Argol. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 


COLORED 

ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS 
FROM  WHITE  WARPS. 


No.  1.  10  Pieces,  f CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Run  8 Ends  in  20  lbs.  of  Sumac — then  8 Ends 
in  2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron — 1 pint  of  Muriate 
of  Tin — each  in  a separate  vessel ; then  clean  them, 
and  Dye  with  15  lbs.  of  Turmeric — 2 lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood — 2J  lbs.  of  Alum,  and  2J-  lbs.  of  Blue  Yitriol. 
Boil  half  an  hour,  and  clean  off. 

No.  2.  10  Pieces,  £ RED  BROWN. 

Prepare  as  No.  1,  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood 
— 2 lbs.  of  Logwood — 5 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 2 \ lbs.  of 
Alum,  and  2J  lbs.  of  Blue  Yitriol. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces,  £ COFFEE  BROWN. 

Prepare  as  No.  1,  Dye  with  25  lbs.  of  Peachwood 
— 15  lbs.  of  Logwood — 8 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 2J  lbs. 
of  Alum,  and  2J  lbs.  of  Blue  Yitriol. 

No.  4.  10  Pieces,  £ LIGHT  CLARET. 

Run  them  8 Ends  in  20  lbs.  of  Sumac — then  in 
2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron — 8 Ends  in  1 quart  of 
Muriate  of  Tin — each  in  a separate  vessel.  Clean 
and  run  them  through  10  lbs.  of  Logwood,  in  a 
144 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 


145 


cistern  of  cold  water,  then  boil  theca  1 hour  with 
10  lbs.  of  Alum,  clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of 
Peachwood,  and  2 quarts  of  Ammonia ; boil  20 
minutes  in  finishing. 

No.  5.  10  Pieces,  f MIDDLE  CLARET. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4.  Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs. 
of  Alum — 5 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Clean  and  finish  with 
20  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 quarts  of  Ammonia.. 

No.  6.  10  Pieces , f DABK  CL  ABET. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4.  Boil  1 hour  with  10  lbs. 
of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Alum.  Clean  and  finish 
with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 3 quarts  of  Ammonia 

No.  7.  10  Pieces , f CHBOMED  CLABET. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4.  Clean  and  boil  20  minutes 
with  1 lb.  of  Chrome.  Finish  in  another  vessel  with 
15  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood — J lb. 
of  Alum. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces,  f ADELAIDE. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4.  Chrome  same  as  No.  7. 
Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  9.  10  Pieces , f MULBEBBY. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4.  Chrome  same  as  No.  7, 
Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  10.  10  Pieces , f APPLE  GBEEN. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Turmeric — J gill  of 
Chemic — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 1 quart  of  Oil  of 
Vitriol.  Clean  and  run  them  8 ends  in  20  lbs.  of 
Sumac — 8 ends  in  2 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

13 


146  COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 

Clean  again  and  dye  off  with  6 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 
1 lb.  of  Blue  Vitriol,  and  clean  off. 

No.  11.  10  Pieces , f LIGHT  OLIVE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  1 gill  of  Chemic — 5 lbs.  of 
Turmeric — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 1 quart  of  Oil 
of  Vitriol — in  other  respects,  same  as  No.  10. 
Olives  of  this  and  darker  shades  may  be  got  from 
Chroming,  but  not  to  appear  so  Green  when  looked 
through  the  Piece. 

No.  12.  10  Pieces , f DARK  GREEN  OLIVE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  3 gills  of  Chemic — 5 lbs.  of 
Turmeric — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 1 quart  of  Oil 
of  Vitriol.  Clean,  then  Sumac  and  Iron,  and  clean 
again,  then  Dye  them  off  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 
5 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 2 lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

No.  13.  10  Pieces , f BROWN  OLIVE. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 1 gill  of 
Chemic — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 1 quart  of  Oil  of 
Vitriol.  Clean,  Sumac,  and  Iron  them  separately, 
and  Spirit  with  1 pint  Muriate  of  Tin.  Clean  again, 
and  Dye  off  with  2 lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — 2}  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol. 

No.  14.  10  Pieces , J DARK  GREEN. 

Worsted  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 3 pints  of 
Chemic — 10  lbs.  of  Alum — 5 lbs.  of  Red  Argol. 
Clean,  and  dye  the  Cotton  by  first  running  them 
through  Sumac,  and  then  through  Iron ; clean  again, 
and  then  run  8 ends  through  10  lbs.  of  Spent  Log- 
wood. 

No.  15.  10  Pieces , f INVISIBLE  GREEN. 

Worsted  Dye  same  as  No.  14,  but  add  1 quart 
more  of  Chemic.  Cotton  Dye  same  as  No.  14.  Dark 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS.  147 

Greens  may  be  got  from  Chroming  in  White  W arps 
as  well  as  in  Black. 

No.  16.  10  Pieces , f RED  CLARET. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4.  Chrome  same  as  No.  7. 
Finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood. — \ lb.  of  Alum. 
— 1 lb.  of  Logwood. 

No.  17.  10  Pieces,  f RED  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  1.  Dye  with  20  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — 5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Tur- 
meric— 3J  lbs.  of  Blue  Vitriol — 2 lbs.  of  Alum. 

No.  18.  10  Pieces, , f DARK  BROWN. 

Prepare  same  as  No.  4.  Chrome  same  as  No.  7. 
Finish  with  5 lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  of  Peach- 
wood— 10  lbs.  of  Fustic — 2 J lbs.  of  Alum. 

No.  19.  10  Pieces , £ SILVER  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  with  4 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract 
— \ handful  of  Cudbear — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — ■ 
3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Clean,  and  Cotton  Dye  by 
first  running  them  in  Sumac  and  Iron,  8 ends  sepa- 
rately, and  then  clear  with  1 Tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol 
in  a cistern  of  clean  water. 

No.  20.  10  Pieces,  £ DARK  SILVER  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  with  6 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract 
— J handful  of  Cudbear — 1 handful  of  Madder — 10 
lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Cot- 
ton Dye  same  as  No.  19. 

No.  21.  10  Pieces,  £ STONE  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract 
— 5 lbs.  of  Madder — 1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear — 
10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 


148 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS. 


Cotton  Dye  by  running  them  in  Sumac  and  Iron, 
8 ends,  and  then  through  2 pails  of  Catechu  Liquor, 
and  1 Tot  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 

No.  22.  10  Pieces,  £ MADDER  DRAB. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract 
— 10  lbs.  of  Madder — 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 1 
handful  of  Paste  Cudbear — 3 gills  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 
Cotton  Dye  by  first  running  them  in  Sumac,  and 
then  in  Iron,  then  through  a cistern  of  warm  water, 
with  J lb.  of  Chrome,  melted,  and  2 Buckets  of 
Catechu  Liquor. 

No.  23.  10  Pieces , f LAVENDER  DRAB. 

First  run  1 end  in  the  Copperas  Vat,  then  Worsted 
Dye  in  a clean  vessel  with  2 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 
2 lbs.  of  Alum — 8 spoonfuls  of  Paste  Extract. 

No.  24.  10  Pieces , £ PINK. 

Worsted  Dye  with  5 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 2 
lbs.  of  White  Argol— 5 ozs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 5 
ozs.  of  Paste  Cochineal.  Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  with 
1 pint  of  Spent  or  Bottled  Safflower  and  1 tot  of 
Oil  of  Vitriol,  in  a cistern  of  clean  water. 

No.  25.  10  Pieces,  £ SEA  GREEN. 

Worsted  Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Fustic — 10  lbs.  of 
Alum — 2 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 2 tots  of  Liquid 
Extract.  Clean  and  Cotton  Dye  by  running  them 
20  minutes  in  Nitrate  of  Iron,  at  4°  Twaddell,  then 
run  6 ends  through  1J  lb.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash  in 
a vessel  of  cold  water,  then  take  up  and  add  1 gill 
of  Oil  of  Vitriol,  run  8 ends  more  and  clean  off. 


COLORED  ORLEANS  AND  COBOURGS.  149 

No.  26.  10  Pieces,  J SKY  BLUE. 

Worsted  Bye  with.  1 tot  of  Liquid  Extract — 10 
lbs.  of  Crystals — 1 quart  of  Oil  of  Yitriol.  Cotton 
Dye  same  as  No.  25. 

No.  27.  10  Pieces , f FULL  BLACK. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  2 lbs.  of  Chrome — Sumac* 
them  with  10  lbs.  of  Sumac — then  Iron,  clean,  and 
finish  with  50  lbs.  of  Logwood — 15  lbs.  of  Fustic — 
1 lb.  of  Bed  Argol. 

* A £ lb.  of  Sumac  is  sufficient  to  a Piece  when  a quantity 
is  Sumaced  together,  but  rather  more  must  be  used  when  only 
a few  are  Sumaced  together. 

The  Sumac  may  be  used  in  cold  water  as  well  as  in  warm, 
without  being  boiled  up  in  the  bottom  of  a cistern,  as  it  gen- 
erally leaves  a redness  on  the  face  of  the  Piece. 


13* 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  1.  10  Pieces , f ROYAL  BLUE. 

Heat  up  to  100°,  add  10  lbs.  of  Prussiate,  and  10 
quarts  of  Blue  Spirits,  run  half  an  hour,  take  up, 
heat  up  to  140° ; but  enter  again  and  run  another 
half  hour,  take  up  again  and  heat  up  to  180°,  add  2 
quarts  of  Finishing  Spirits,  enter  again,  and  run 
another  half  hour,  get  out  and  cool  over,  heat  up  to 
the  boiling  point,  add  other  3 quarts  of  Finishing 
Spirits,  enter  again  and  boil  half  an  hour,  get  out 
and  clean  off. 

Ho.  2.  10  Pieces,  f DARK  ROYAL  BLUE. 

Same  as  No.  1 in  all  respects,  except  half  an 
hour’s  additional  boiling,  with  2 lbs.  of  Logwood, 
and  another  quart  of  Finishing  Spirits  as  the  last 
operation.  Lighter  shades  of  No.  1 may  be  got  by 
using  less  Prussiate,  and  darker  than  No.  2,  by  add- 
ing more  Logwood. 

No.  3.  10  Pieces , f BLUE  SHADE  OF  GRAIN 
MAROON. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  6 lbs.  of  Cudbear— -then  in 
a separate  vessel  boil  half  an  hour  with  2 quarts  of 
Nitrate  of  Tin — 2 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 1 lb.  of  Drv 
Cochineal. 


150 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


151 


No.  4.  10  Pieces , £ FULL  GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  4 lbs.  of  White  Argol — 4 
lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal — 8 lbs.  of 
Dry  Cochineal — 8 quarts  o.f  Spirits.  Nitrate  of  Tin 
is  the  Spirit  for  a Grain  Color. 

No.  5.  10  Pieces , £ LIGHT  PINK. 

Dye  with  10  ozs.  of  Cochineal  Paste — 4 ozs.  of 
Dry  Cochineal — 3 lbs.  of  Tartar — 6 quarts  of  Spirits. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  6.  10  Pieces,  £ SALMON. 

Dye  with  6 quarts  of  Spirits — 6 lbs.  of  Tartar — 
J lb.  of  Cochineal — J lb.  of  Paste  Cochineal.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  7.  10  Pieces , £ GRAIN  ROSE. 

Dye  with  6 quarts  of  Spirits — 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 
6 lbs.  of  Dry  Cochineal — 2 lbs.  of  Paste  Cochineal. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  8.  10  Pieces,  £ LIGHT  ORANGE. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 1£  lb.  of  Dry 
Cochineal — 6 quarts  of  Spirits — 4 lbs.  of  Tartar. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  9.  10  Pieces,  £ YELLOW. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 lb.  of  Alum — 5 
quarts  of  Spirits — 7§  lbs.  of  Young  Fustic.  Boil 
half  an  hour 

No.  10.  10  Pieces . £ GRAIN  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  Cochineal — 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 
8 quarts  of  Spirits — 3 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 


152 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


Iso.  11.  10  Pieces , £ LAG  SCARLET. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 10  quarts  of  Spirits — 
10  lbs.  of  good  Lac — 8 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic.  Boil 
1 hour.  Either  White  or  Brown  Tartar  will  answer 
the  purpose. 

No.  12.  10  Pieces,  £ LIGHT  PEA  GREEN. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Alum — 5 lbs.  of  White  Argol 
—5  lbs.  of  Old  Fustic — 9 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Ex- 
tract. Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  18.  10  Pieces,  J SEA  GREEN. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract — 10  lbs.  of 
Fustic — 5 lbs.  of  Argol — 20  lbs.  of  Alum.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  14.  10  Pieces,  £ APPLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract — 5 lbs.  of  Red 
Argol — 10  lbs.  of  Turmeric — 3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vit- 
riol. Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  15.  10  Pieces,  £ BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 20  lbs.  of  Alum— 10 
lbs.  of  Red  Argol— 3 pints  of  Chemic.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  16.  10  Pieces,  £ INVISIBLE  GREEN. 

Dye  with  5 pints  of  Chemic — 10  lbs.  of  Super 
Argol— 10  lbs.  of  Alum— J a Dish  of  Logwood. 
Boil  1 hour. 

No.  17.  10  Pieces,  £ CHROMED  GREEN. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome.  Finish  with 
20  lbs.  of  Fustic — 8 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil  half  an 
hour  in  the  finishing. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


158 


No.  18.  10  Pieces , f CHROMED  INVISIBLE 
GREEN. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1 lb.  of  Chrome.  Finish 
with  15  lbs.  of  Fustic — 12  lbs.  of  Logwood.  Boil 
half  an  hour.  Compare  the  last  two  with  Nos.  15 
and  16,  and  you  will  see  the  difference  of  cost. 

No.  19.  10  Pieces , J PURPLE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  17.  Finish  with  3 lbs.  of 
Logwood — 5 lbs.  of  Cudbear — 1 pint  of  Ammonia. 
Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  20.  10  Pieces , f LIGHT  CHROMED  PURPLE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  17.  Finish  with  8 lbs.  of 
Cudbear — J lb.  of  Logwood.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  21.  10  Pieces , f VIOLET. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear — then 
run  them  through  a Copperas  Vat. 

No.  22.  10  Pieces,  £ RED  RUBY. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  10  lbs.  of  Cudbear — then 
wash  off. 


No.  23.  10  Pieces , £ MAROON. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of 
Red  Argol.  Clean  well  and  finish  with  25  lbs.  of 
Peachwood — 1 quart  of  Ammonia.  Boil  half  an 
hour  in  the  finishing. 

No.  24.  10  Pieces , £ LIGHT  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of  Red 
Argol.  Clean  and  finish  with  20  lbs.  of  Peachwood 
— 1 gallon  of  Ammonia.  Boil  half  an  hour. 


154 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  25.  10  Pieces , £ MIDDLE  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  Red 
Argol — \ lb.  of  Logwood.  Clean  and  finish  with 
25  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 3 quarts  of  Ammonia.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  26.  10  Pieces,  £ FULL  CLARET. 

Boil  3 hours  with  30  lbs.  of  Alum — 10  lbs.  of  Red 
Argol — 3 lbs.  of  Logwood.  Clean  and  finish  with 
30  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 4 quarts  of  Ammonia.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  27.  10  Pieces,  £ DARK  GREEN  OLIVE. 
Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Turmeric — 1 quart  of  Chemic 
—10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol — 3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol. 
Boil  1 hour. 

No.  28.  10  Pieces,  £ BROWN  OLIVE. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Turmeric — 15  lbs.  of  Cam- 
wood— 1 pint  of  Chemic — 3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol 
— 10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  29.  10  Pieces,  £ FULL  RED  BROWN. 
Dye  with  30  lbs.  of  Camwood — 3 gills  of  Chemic 
. — 2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 4 lbs.  of  Turmeric — 
10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol.  Boil  1J  hour. 

No.  30.  10  Pieces , £ DARK  COFFEE  BROWN. 

Dye  with  30  lbs.  of  Camwood — 5 lbs.  of  Turmeric 
— 3 pints  of  Chemic — 2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 
10  lbs.  of  Super  Argol.  Boil  1J  hour. 

No.  31.  10  Pieces , £ ADELAIDE. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  17.  Finish  with  3 lbs.  of 
Cudbear — 10  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 2 lbs.  of  Logwood. 
Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


155 


No.  32.  10  Pieces , J MULBERRY. 

Chrome  same  as  No.  17.  Finish  with  10  lbs.  of 
Cudbear — 10  lbs.  of  Peachwood — 10  lbs.  of  Logwood 
— 1 quart  of  Ammonia.  Boil  half  an  hour  in  the 
finishing. 

No.  38.  10  Pieces,  £ LIGHT  SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of 
Crystals — 10  spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  40 
minutes. 

No.  34.  10  Pieces , £ DARK  SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  2 quarts  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of 
Crystals — 1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  40  minutes. 
Where  Bluer  and  more  bloomy  shades  are  required, 
add  1 oz.  of  Prussiate,  and  a cupful  of  Nitrate  of 
Tin  to  the  10  Pieces. 

No.  35.  10  Pieces , £ LAVENDER. 

Dye  with  1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of 
Crystals — 1 lb.  of  Paste  Cudbear — 1 gill  of  Liquid 
Extract.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  36.  10  Pieces , £ RED  LAVENDER. 

Dye  with  1 quart  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of 
Crystals — 2 lbs.  of  Paste  Cudbear — 1 gill  of  Liquid 
Extract.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  37.  10  Pieces , £ MADDER  DRAB. 

Dye  with  3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of 
Super  Argol — 1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear — 4 spoon- 
fuls of  Liquid  Extract — 5 lbs.  of  Maddej*.  Boil  1 
hour. 


156 


COLORED  MERINOS. 


No.  38.  10  Pieces , £ FULL  DRAB. 

Dye  with  3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of 
Super  Argol — 1 handful  of  Paste  Cudbear — 1 lb.  of 
Madder — 3 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  one 
hour. 


No.  39.  10  Pieces , £ SILVER  DRAB. 

Dye  with  3 pints  of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 10  lbs.  of 
Crystals — 3 spoonfuls  of  Liquid  Extract — J a hand- 
ful of  Paste  Cudbear.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  40.  10  Pieces , £ BLUE  BLACK. 

Boil  20  minutes  with  1£  lb.  of  Chrome.  Finish 
with  20  lbs.  of  Logwood — 2 lbs.  of  Peachwood. 
Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 

No.  41.  10  Pieces,  £ FULL  BLACK. 

Boil  half  an  hour  with  1J  lb.  of  Chrome.  Finish 
with  30  lbs.  of  Logwood — 10  lbs.  Fustic — 1 lb.  of 
Red  Argol.  Boil  half  an  hour  in  the  finishing. 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


No.  1.  100  WOOLLEN  SHAWLS.— ROYAL 
BLUE. 

Dissolve  12  lbs.  of  Prussiate,  and  put  into  a vessel 
with  2 quarts  of  Ammonia;  run  the  Shawls  6 ends 
cold ; take  up,  and  add  12  quarts  of  Blue  Spirits, 
and  run  6 ends  more  cold ; take  up  again,  and  heat 
up  to  120°;  then  run  6 ends  more ; take  up  again, 
and  heat  up  to  180°;  then  run  6 ends  more;  take 
them  out,  cool  them  over,  add  3 pints  of  Finishing 
Spirits,  and  heat  up  to  the  boiling  point ; enter  again, 
and  boil  half  an  hour ; take  them  out,  cool  over,  and 
add  3 pints  more  of  Finishing  Spirits;  enter  again, 
boil  half  an  hour,  and  then  clean  off. 

No.  2.  70  SHAWLS.— BLOOMY  ROYAL 
BLUE. 

Dissolve  12  lbs.  of  Prussiate,  which  put  into  a 
cistern  of  cold  water,  with  1J  lb.  of  Logwood  and  9 
quarts  of  Blue  Spirits.  Run  6 ends  cold,  then  take 
them  up,  and  add  3 quarts  more  of  Blue  Spirits  ; 
get  down  again,  put  the  steam  on  with  the  Shawis 
in  the  vessel,  heat  up  to  the  boiling  point,  and  boil 
20  minutes ; then  take  out,  cool  over,  add  3 quarts 
of  Finishing  Spirits,  boil  up  well  before  entering 
them,  enter,  boil  20  minutes  more,  and  then  clean 
off.  This  is  the  best  mode  of  dyeing  Royal  Blue 
Shawls. 

14 


157 


158 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


No.  3.  50  SHAWLS.— LIGHT  ROSE. 

Dje  with  2 1 lbs.  of  Alum — 5 lbs.  of  White  Tar- 
tar— 1 quarts  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 12  ozs.  of  Dry 
Cochineal.  Give  them  half  the  Cochineal  at  the  be- 
ginning, and  the  remainder  when  they  have  boiled 
half  an  hour,  after  which  boil  half  an  hour  more. 

No.  4.  60  SHAWLS.— FULL  ROSE. 

Dye  with  5 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2J  lbs.  of  Alum — 4 
quarts  of  Spirits — 1 \ lb.  of  Dry  Cochineal.  Boil  40 
minutes.  Less  Spirits  and  Acids  will  do  when 
shades  of  the  same  sort  have  been  dyed  before  in 
the  same  vessel. 

No.  5.  50  SHAWLS.— LIGHT  SALMON. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 2 ozs.  of  Young  Fus- 
tic— 4 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 3 quarts  of  Spirits.  Boil 
40  minutes. 

No.  6.  30  SHAWLS.— FULL  SALMON. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar — 8 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 
4 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic — 3 pints  of  Spirits.  Boil  40 
minutes. 


No.  7.  40  SHAWLS.— MELON. 

Dye  with  8 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 3 lbs.  of  Tartar — 
4 pints  of  Spirits.  Boil  40  minutes. 

No.  8.  40  SHAWLS.— YELLOW. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar — 1 lb.  of  Alum — 4 lbs. 
of  Quercitron  Bark  — 4 pints  of  Oxalic  Tin.  Boil 
20  minutes. 


WOOLLEN  SHAWL  DYEING. 


159 


No.  9.  40  SHAWLS.— OEANGE. 

Dye  with  4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 8 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 
4 lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 4 pints  of  Spirits.  Boil 
half  an  hour. 

No.  10.  40  SHAWLS.— YELLOW  BUFF. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar — 5 pints  of  Spirits — 1 
oz.  of  Cochineal — 2 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic.  Boil  J 
an  hour. 

No.  11.  40  SHAWLS.— LIGHT  BUFF. 

2 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 8 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic — 2 
lbs.  of  Tartar — 3 pints  of  Spirits.  Boil  half  an 
hour. 

No.  12.  40  SHAWLS.— FULL  BUFF. 

Dye  with  4 ozs.  of  Young  Fustic — 3 lbs.  of  Tartar 
— 4 ozs.  of  Cochineal — 3 pints  of  Spirits.  Boil  half 
an  hour. 

No.  13.  40  SHAWLS.— SCAELET. 

Dye  with  8 lbs.  of  good  Lac — 4 lbs.  of  Tartar — 4 
lbs.  of  Young  Fustic — 3 pints  of  Nitrate  of  Tin — 6 
pints  of  Oxalic  Tin.  Boil  1 hour. 

No.  14.  40  SHAWLS.— LAYENDEE. 

Dye  with  3 lbs.  of  Tartar — 8 ozs.  of  Cudbear — 1 
gill  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil  half  an  hour. 

No.  15.  40  SHAWLS.— SKY  BLUE. 

Dye  with  10  lbs.  of  Common  Crystals — 1 quart 
of  Oil  of  Vitriol — 1 gill  of  Liquid  Extract.  Boil 
half  an  hotir. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


TO  MAKE  THE  STANDARD  COLORS,  AND 
HOW  TO  MIX  THEM  FOR  VARIOUS 
SHADES. 


Padding  is  only  another  mode  of  dyeing  the  same 
color.  It  is  done  by  a Machine,  rather  similar  to 
the  Crabbing  Machine.  The  Standard  Colors  are 
made  according  to  the  annexed  Receipts.  In  Pad- 
ding any  color,  the  Liquor  is  put  into  the  Trough, 
above  which  are  two  Rollers,  which  revolve  against 
each  other  with  great  pressure ; they  are  covered 
either  with  Woollen  or  Cotton,  and  the  lower  Roller 
revolves  in  the  Dyeing  Liquid.  The  Pieces  are  put 
under  the  Trolly,  or  small  Roller  in  the  Trough,  and 
passed  through  the  Machine.  Some  light  colors  are 
dyed  sufficiently  by  passing  them  only  once  through 
the  Machine ; while  darker  colors  require  to  be 
passed  through  two  or  three  times,  adding  more  Dye 
Liquor  according  to  shade.  By  means  of  Padding, 
Cotton  and  Worsted  may  be  dyed  nearly  the  same 
color  at  the  same  time,  but  colors  produced  by  Pad- 
ding are  not  so  permanent  as  those  obtained  by  the 
ordinary  mode  of  dyeing.  A more  permanent  color 
by  Padding  may  be  got  by  dyeing  the  W orsted  first 
a little  lighter  than  the  shade  required,  and  then  by 
Cotton  Dyeing  by  passing  through  the  Padding  Ma- 
chine. The  Pieces  after  having  been  Padded  are 
160 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


161 


taken  to  the  Drying  Machine,  and  dried  off  the  Bolls, 
or  passed  slowly  through  a hot  stove.  Any  person 
not  acquainted  with  Padding  may  soon  acquire  the 
art,  and  produce  equally  as  good  colors,  as  any  person 
who  has  been  practising  for  some  time,  by  adopting 
the  following  Receipts ; which  show  how  to  make 
the  Standard  Colors,  and  how  they  are  mixed.  It 
is  difficult,  however,  to  convey  to  any  person  not 
acquainted  with  matching,  the  nicety  of  bringing  up 
the  particular  hue  required.  It  can  be  obtained  only 
by  practice. 

N.B. — Though  there  are  many  different  colors  or 
tints  in  the  works  of  nature,  and  also  in  objects  pro- 
duced by  art,  yet  all  the  colors  that  we  see,  or  can 
imagine,  are  formed  of  only  three  colors,  called  the 
'primary  colors , viz.,  red,  yellow,  and  blue.  All  other 
colors  are  mixed  in  different  ways  from  these,  and 
are  denominated  compound  colors.  Hence  Green  is  a 
mixture  of  yellow  and  blue ; and  the  shade  may  be 
varied  by  taking  more  of  the  one  and  less  of  the 
other.  Orange  is  a mixture  of  yellow  and  red; 
purple , a mixture  of  blue  and  red,  and  violet  is  ob- 
tained by  the  addition  of  more  blue  to  the  mixture. 
Brown,  drab,  gray,  lilac,  and  other  colors  or  tints 
are  also  formed  by  similarly  mixing  the  primary 
colors.  White  is  perfect  lightness,  or  the  absence 
of  all  color,  and  black  is  perfect  darkness.  White 
and  black,  strictly  speaking,  are  not  colors,  though 
they  are  seen  both  in  nature  and  art. 


14* 


162 


ART  OF  PADDING 


RECEIPTS  FOR  PADDING. 


No.  1.  ESTARIAZER  STANDARD. 

4J  gallons  of  Water— 1 gallon  of  Brown  Stand- 
ard— 1 gallon  of  Red  Liquor — 1 quart  of  Iron 
Liquor,  21°  Twaddell — 2 quarts  of  Logwood  Liquor, 
8°  Twaddell — 1 pint  of  Bark  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 
To  pad  this  color  give  Water  according  to  shade. 

No.  2.  RED  BROWN  STANDARD. 

8 gallons  of  Sapan  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell — 8 gal- 
lons of  Bark  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell — 8 gallons  of 
Fustic  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell — 24  lbs.  of  Alum — 6 
lbs.  of  Sugar  of  Lead.  Dissolve  together,  and  when 
settled,  use  the  clear  Liquor  only ; dissolve  6 lbs.  of 
Yerdigris  in  2 gallons  of  Water,  4 gallons  of  Purple 
Standard.  Mix  together.  As  this  grows  better  by 
keeping,  it  should  be  prepared  three  or  four  weeks 
before  it  is  used. 

No.  3.  DARK  PURPLE  STANDARD. 

4 gallons  of  Red  Liquor — 8 lbs.  of  Logwood,  heat 
up  to  120°.  Add  J-  lb.  of  Oxalic  Acid.  Let  it  settle 
24  hours,  and  use  the  clear  Liquor  only. 

No.  4.  DRAB  STANDARD. 

2 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell — 2 quarts 
of  Iron  Liquor,  24°  Twaddell— 2 gallons  of  Water 
— 1 pint  of  Gall  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


163 


No.  5.  DRAB  STANDARD. 

3 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell — 1 noggin 
of  Acetic  Acid — 1 noggin  of  Carbonate  of  Iron. 
To  1 gallon  of  this  Standard,  add  water  according 
to  shade. 

No.  6.  GRAY,  OR  QUAKER  DRAB 
STANDARD. 

1 lb.  of  Copperas,  dissolve  in  8 quarts  of  hot 
Water — 2 quarts  of  Gall  Liquor,  4°  Twaddell — 1 
gill  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo,  or  Chemic. 

No.  7.  SLATE  STANDARD. 

} lb.  of  Copperas — 5 quarts  of  hot  Water — 1 gill 
of  Chemic — 1 pint  of  Gall  Liquor,  4°  Twaddell — 1 
quart  of  Iron  Liquor. 

No.  8.  DOVE  STANDARD,  OLD  WAY. 

1 gallon  of  Purple  Standard — 1 pint  of  Extract  of 
Indigo — 1 pint  of  Prussiate  Liquor  at  2 lbs.  per 
gallon  of  Water* — 1,  2,  or  3 gallons  of  water  to 
1 of  the  Standard,  as  the  shade  may  require. 

No.  9.  DARK  DOYE  STANDARD,  NEW 
WAY. 

4 pints  of  Gall  Liquor,  5°  Twaddell — \ lb.  of 
Copperas — 1 pint  of  Purple  Standard — 1 noggin  of 
Extract  of  Indigo — 1 noggin  of  Prussiate  Liquor,* 
same  as  No.  8. 

No.  10.  LIGHT  DOYE  STANDARD. 

1 gallon  of  Purple  Standard — 1 gallon  of  Water 
— 5 gills  of  Extract  of  Indigo — 3 gills  of  Prussiate 
Liquor. 

* For  the  Prussiate  Liquor  dissolve  2 lbs.  of  Pussiate  in  1 
gallon  of  hot  Water ; and  for  the  Extract  of  Indigo,  mix  1 quart 
of  Sulphate  of  Indigo  with  1 gallon  of  Water. 


164 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


No.  11.  FAWN  DRAB  STANDARD. 

3 lbs.  of  Madder — 4 gallons  of  Water,  boil  10 
minutes.  Add  \ lb.  of  Alum — 5 gills  of  Iron 
Liquor. 

No.  12.  LAVENDER  STANDARD. 

10  gallons  of  hot  Water — J lb.  of  Prussiate — 7 
quarts  of  Purple  Standard — 4 gills  of  Extract  of 
Indigo. 

No.  18.  SULPHATE  OF  INDIGO. 

Take  Sulphate  of  Indigo,  or  Chemic,  dissolve  1J 
lb.  of  Ground  Spanish  Indigo  in  6 lbs.  of  Sulphuric 
Acid,  or  Oil  of  Vitriol.  Let  it  stand  24  hours  in  a 
warm  bath,  then  add  3 gallons  of  boiling  Water  and 
1 lb.  of  White  Sugar  of  Lead,  and  strain  through 
flannel. 


No.  14.  BLUE  STANDARD. 

4 quarts  of  hot  Water — J lb.  of  Oxalic  Acid — 1 
pint  of  Prussiate  Liquor — 1 pint  of  Extract.  When 
bloom  is  wanted,  add  a little  Bloom  Pink  Standard. 

No.  15.  BLOOM  PINK  STANDARD. 

1 lb.  of  Cochineal  and  2 lbs.  of  Spirits  of  Ammonia ; 
mix  and  let  them  stand  in  a warm  place  24  hours, 
and  then  add  2 gallons  of  Water  ; boil  down  to  1 
gallon,  then  add  12  ozs.  of  Alum — \ a lb.  of  Oxalic 
Acid — | a lb.  of  Tin  Crystals. 

No.  16.  ROYAL  BLUE  STANDARD. 

3 gallons  of  warm  Water — 8 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of 
Potash— 6 lbs.  of  Tartaric  Acid — 6 quarts  of  Prus- 
siate of  Tin — 1 gill  of  Blue  Spirits.  This  will  do 
either  for  padding  or  printing. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


165 


No.  17.  PRUSS1ATE  OF  TIN. 

To  make  Prussiate  of  Tin,  dissolve  4 lbs.  of  Prus- 
siate  of  Potash  in  6 gallons  of  warm  Water;  in 
another  vessel  dissolve  5 lbs.  of  Tin  Crystals  in  6 
gallons  of  Water,  and  mix  both  Liquors  together; 
then  pour  cold  Water  into  the  admixture,  when  the 
Prussiate  will  be  precipitated,  forming  a pulp  at  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  Pour  cold  Water  upon  it  till 
all  the  acid  be  washed  off.  The  result  will  be  2 
gallons  of  pulp,  which  will  be  the  real  Prussiate  of 
Tin. 

No.  18.  CLARET  STANDARD. 

5 gallons  of  Sapan  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell — 4 gallons 
of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell — 1 \ lb.  of  Sal  am- 
moniac. Mix  well,  and  let  them  stand  24  hours. 

No.  19.  TO  PAD  CLARET. 

Take  8 gallons  of  Claret  Standard — 4 gallons  of 
Red  Liquor — 3 pints  of  Extract  of  Indigo — 3 pints 
of  Nitrate  of  Copper — 3 lbs.  of  Common  Salt. 

No.  20.  TO  PAD  BLACK. 

1 gallon  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell — 1 pint 
of  Pyroligneous  Acid,  4°  Twaddell — J a noggin  of 
Acetate  of  Copper — 1 noggin  of  Nitrate  of  Iron — ■ 
1 noggin  of  Muriate  of  Iron — 1 noggin  of  Extract 
of  Indigo. 


No.  21.  TO  MAKE  ACETATE  OF  COPPER. 

Dissolve  4 lbs.  of  Sulphate  of  Copper,  or  Blue 
Vitriol,  and  2 lbs.  of  Sugar  of  Lead  in  1 gallon  of 
boiling  Water. 


166 


ABT  OF  PADDING. 


No.  22.  STONE  DRAB  STANDARD. 

Dissolve  in  4 gallons  of  hot  Water  1 lb.  of  Cop- 
peras. Add  4 pints  of  Gall  Liquor.  4°  Twaddell — 
4 pints  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  Twaddell — 1 pint  of 
Nitrate  of  Iron — 1 noggin  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo,  or 
Chemic.  Add  water  according  to  shade  required. 

No.  23.  ORANGE  STANDARD. 

4 gallons  of  Water — 6 lbs.  of  Anotta — J lb.  of 
Pearlash — J lb.  of  Soft  Soao.  Boil  10  minutes,  and 
let  it  settle  12  hours. 

No.  24.  LIGHT  OLIVE  STANDARD. 

1 quart  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell — 1 quart 
of  Fustic  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell — 1 quart  of  Red 
Liquor — 1 quart  of  Purple  Standard — 1 quart  of 
Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

No.  25.  TO  PAD  DARK  SHADES  OF 
OLIVE. 

Use  2 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell — 12 
quarts  of  Fustic  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell — 1 lb.  of 
Alum — 2 quarts  of  Purple  Standard — Logwood 
Liquor  according  to  shade. 

No.  26.  LILAC. 

Take  2 quarts  of  Pink  Standard — 4 quarts  of  Pur- 
ple Standard. 

No.  27.  SLATE  STANDARD. 

2 lbs.  of  Copperas — 2 gallons  of  hot  Water — 2 
quarts  of  Gall  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell — 2 quarts  of 
Sulphate  of  Indigo.  Add  Water  according  to  shade. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


167 


No.  28.  FIRST  SHADE,  YELLOW  STONE 
DRAB. 

4 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  Twaddell — 4 gallons 
of  W ater — 1 quart  of  Gall  Liquor — 2 quarts  of  Iron 
Liquor. 

No.  29.  SECOND  SHADE,  STONE  DRAB. 

4 quarts  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  Twaddell — 1 pint  of 
Iron  Liquor— \ a noggin  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo. 
Add  W ater  according  to  shade. 

No.  30.  THIRD  SHADE. 

1 quart  of  Bark  Liquor,  2°  Twaddell — 1 noggin 
of  Iron  Liquor — 3 quarts  of  First  Shade  Standard. 

No.  31.  CINNAMON  STANDARD. 

1 gallon  of  Water — 2 lbs.  of  Annotta — 1 lb.  of 
Pearlash.  Boil  together.  In  another  vessel,  boil  2 
lbs.  of  Catechu — 1 gallon  of  Water — 1 lb.  of  Chrome 
— 1 pint  of  Acetate  of  Copper 

No.  32.  TO  PAD  CINNAMON. 

Use  1 pint  of  Acetate  of  Copper — 1 gallon  of  Cin- 
namon Standard — Half  out  of  each  vessel,  as  de- 
scribed in  No.  31. 

No.  33.  TO  PAD  ESTARIAZER  COLOR. 

2 gallons  of  Cinnamon  Standard — 1 gallon  of  No. 
28,  Stone  Standard — 1 quart  of  Logwood  Liquor, 
8°  Twaddell. 


No.  34.  TO  PAD  SLATE  COLORS. 

Take  2 gallons  of  Slate  Standard,  No.  27 — 4 gal- 
lons of  Water.  Darker  or  Lighter  shades  may  be 
got  by  adding  more  or  less  of  the  Standard. 


168 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


No.  35.  DARK  GREEN  STANDARD. 

1 gallon  of  Persian  Berry  Liquor,  16°  Twaddell 
— 3 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash — J lb.  of  Oxalic  Acid 
— 1 quart  of  Red  Liquor* — 3 gills  of  Extract  of  In- 
digo— 1 noggin  of  Muriate  of  Tin — \ a noggin  of 
Oil  of  Vitriol. 

No.  36.  PALE  GREEN. 

2 quarts  of  Green  Standard,  No.  35 — 1 pint  of 
Persian  Berry  Liquor — And  water  as  required. 

No.  37.  SKY  BLUE  STANDARD. 

Mix  10  lbs.  of  good  Paste  Extract  with  1 pailful 
of  Water ; dissolve  every  particle  to  prevent  Blotch- 
es when  used ; fill  the  Trough  to  a little  above  the 
Trolly,  then  add  1 quart  of  this  Standard  for  a Light 
Blue,  and  1 gill  of  Ammonia,  and  boil  while  running 
the  first  end  through ; if  not  dark  enough,  run 
through  again.  For  Dark  Shades  add  more  Extract 
and  Ammonia. 

No.  38.  LAVENDER  STANDARD. 

Dissolve  20  lbs.  of  Alum  and  10  lbs.  of  Sugar  of 
Lead  in  5 pails  of  Water,  then  take  off  the  clear 
Liquor  and  heat  up  to  180°,  and  then  put  into  a bag 
4 or  5 pailfuls  of  Logwood,  and  rinse  it  in  this 
Liquor ; let  it  steep  in  it  about  5 hours,  and  then 
draw  out  the  bag.  This  is  Lavender  Bloom  Stan- 
dard. For  the  Blue  Standard  for  Lawenders,  dis- 
solve 3 lbs.  of  Tartaric  Acid,  2 lbs.  of  Alum,  and 
14  lbs.  of  good  Extract,  with  2 pailfuls  of  hot  water. 
For  Lighter  or  Darker  Shades  of  Lavenders,  take 
more  or  less  of  the  Blue  Standard  with  Bloom 
Standard,  according  to  shade  required. 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


169 


TO  PAD  TEN  PIECES,  LAVENDER. 

Take  1 pail  of  Bloom  Standard  and  2 quarts  of 
Blue  Standard ; heat  up  to  180°,  add  1 pint  of  Red 
Liquor,  and  then  run  4 ends. 

No.  39.  DRAB  PREPARATION,  OR  ANOTHER 
MODE  OF  PADDING  DRAB. 

Take  8 pints  of  Fustic  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  1 pint 
of  Muriate  of  Tin,  run  them  2 ends  through  the 
boiliug  Liquor  at  the  Machine.  This  mode  of  pad- 
ding Drabs  is  preferred  by  some  parties. 

No.  40.  TO  PAD  DIFFERENT  SHADES  OF 
DRAB. 

Fill  up  a little  above  the  Trolly  with  cold  water, 
and  put  in  a little  Iron  Liquor  at  full  strength,  a 
little  Blue  Standard,  a little  Lavender  Bloom  Stand- 
ard, and  a little  Archil,  all  at  full  strength,  accord- 
ing to  shade  required.  For  Fawn  Shades,  add  only 
a little  Bloom,  but  for  heavier  shades  add  a little  Iron 
Liquor  as  well ; for  Bluer  shades  of  Drab,  add  a 
little  Blue  Standard ; and  for  very  blooming  shades, 
add  a little  Archil  with  more  Bloom  Standard. 
With  more  or  less  of  these  Ingredients  properly 
mixed,  any  shades  of  Drab  may  be  got  without  much 
difficulty,  the  Goods  being  previously  prepared  ac- 
cording to  No.  39,  it  being  the  basis  for  all  these 
Ingredients. 

No.  41.  SKY  BLUE. 

Another  mode  of  Padding. — Take  6 gallons  of 
Water,  1J  noggin  of  Nitrate  of  Iron,  90°  Twaddell, 
i a noggin  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  mix  well,  run  3 ends, 
then  dissolve  4 ozs.  of  Tartaric  Acid,  and  4 ozs.  of 
Yellow  Prussiate  of  Potash,  in  6 gallons  of  Water, 
15 


170 


ART  OF  PADDING. 


to  which  add  J a noggin  of  Extract  of  Indigo,  and 
put  this  into  the  Trough,  and  run  3 or  4 ends,  ac- 
cording to  the  shade  required,  and  then  dry  at  the 
Machine. 

No.  42.  ROYAL  BLUE. 

How  to  prepare  Royal  Blues — Add  3 lbs.  of  Tin 
Crystals  to  1 pint  of  Oil  of  Vitriol  ; in  another  ves- 
sel, melt  4 lbs.  Chloride  of  Lime,  add  1 gill  of  Oil 
of  Vitriol  with  8 gallons  of  Water:  run  4 ends 
through  Tin  Preparation,  6°  Twaddell,  then  through 
the  Chloride  of  Lime,  2°  Twaddell,  then  through  a 
fresh  Liquor  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  12°  Twaddell,  then 
through  Soda,  1 J lb.  to  a Piece ; wash  and  run  them 
in  Strong  Prussiate  Liquor,  with  a little  Oil  of  Vit- 
riol in  it,  at  the  Padding  Machine,  after  which  they 
must  be  steamed.  The  Steaming  will  raise  the  Cot- 
ton and  the  Worsted  from  a flat  Green  to  a good 
Blue. 


SILK  WARP,  SKEIN, 

AND 

HANDKERCHIEF  PRINTING. 


No.  1.  BLACK. 

3 gallons  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  3 lbs. 
of  D.  British  Gum,  12  ozs.  of  Gum  Dragon,  6 ozs. 
of  Sal  ammoniac ; boil  well.  When  half  cold,  add 
1 pint  of  S.  Copper  Liquor.  When  cold,  add  1 
quart  of  Muriate  of  Iron,  3 gills  of  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

No.  2.  SCARLET. 

1 gallon  of  Cochineal  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  1 lb. 
of  Starch.  At  blood  heat,  add  3 ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid, 
4 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals,  1 gill  of  Persian  Berry 
Liquor,  8°  Twaddell. 

No.  3.  GREEN. 

1 gallon  of  French  Berry  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  1 
lb.  of  Alum,  1 lb.  of  Flour.  When  taken  off  the 
fire  add  1 quart  of  Extract  of  Indigo,  1 quart  of 
Red  Liquor. 


No.  4.  CLARET. 

1 quart  of  Bronze  Logwood,  1 quart  of  Bronze 
Peach  wood,  1 quart  of  Red  Liquor,  2 \ lbs.  of  British 
Gum.  When  taken  off  the  fire,  add  1 quart  of  Y. 
Copper  Liquor. 


171 


172 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  5.  BROWN. 

10  parts  of  Amber  Color,  4 parts  of  Ruby,  1 part 
of  Black. 


No.  6.  DARK  RED. 

8 of  Bronze  Peachwood,  1 of  Nitro-Muriate  of 
Tin;  add  2 of  tbe  above  to  1 of  Gum  Water,  then 
add  1 lb.  of  Alum  per  gallon. 

No.  7.  ORANGE. 

3 lbs.  of  good  Annotta,  1 lb.  of  Caustic  Potash  16° 
Twaddell — Boil  until  dissolved,  add  1 of  the  above 
to  2 of  Gum  Water,  and  then  add  2 ozs.  of  Alum 
per  gallon. 


No.  8.  AMBER. 

1 gallon  of  Berry  Liquor,  9°  Twaddell,  1 oz.  of 
Alum,  2J  lbs.  of  British  Gum.  When  taken  off  the 
fire,  add  8 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals. 

-No.  9.  PINK. 

1 lb.  of  fine  ground  Cochineal,  1 lb.  of  strong 
Spirits  of  Ammonia.  Mix,  and  let  them  remain  in 
a hot  stove  for  at  least  24  hours,  then  add  2 gallons 
of  Water,  and  boil  the  whole  down  to  2 gallons,  then 
add  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  4 ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid,  4 ozs.  of 
Tin  Crystals.  Thicken  with  Gum  Senegal. 

No.  10.  LIGHT  PINK. 

1 of  the  above  to  3 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  11.  PEACH. 

20  of  Ammoniacal  Cochineal,  1 of  Extract  of  In- 
digo. 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


178 


No.  12.  LIGHT  PEACH. 

1 of  the  above  to  8 of  Gum  W ater. 

No.  13.  DARK  PURPLE. 

1 of  Bronze  Logwood,  1 of  Red  Liquor,  4 of  Gum 
W ater. 


No.  14.  LIGHT  PURPLE. 

1 of  Bronze  Logwood,  5 of  Red  Liquor,  5 of  Gum 
W ater. 

No.  15.  BLUE. 

1 gallon  of  Red  Liquor,  8 ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid,  4 
ozs.  of  Tartaric  Acid  1 lb.  of  Paste  Indigo.  Thicken 
with  Gum  Senegal. 

No.  16.  DARK  BROWN. 

26  quarts  of  Berry  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  10 
quarts  of  Logwood  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  9 quarts 
of  Sapan  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  5 lbs.  of  Sulphate  of 
Copper,  10  lbs.  of  Alum,  2 lbs.  of  Sal  Ammoniac,  6 
gallons  of  thick  Gum  Water. 

No.  17.  LIGHT  BROWN. 

2 gallons  of  Catechu,  10°  Twaddell,  1 gallon  of 
Berry  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell,  1 gallon  of  Sapan  Li- 
quor, 6°  Twaddell,  4 ozs.  of  Nitrate  of  Copper. 
Thicken  with  Gum  Senegal. 

No.  18.  POPPY  RED. 

2 lbs.  of  Ground  Cochineal,  1 pint  of  Strong  Am- 
monia, 8 pints  of  Water,  4 pints  of  thick  Gum 
Water,  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  4 ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid,  1 nog- 
gin of  Murio-Sulphate  of  Tin.  Pass  the  above 
through  a fine  Sieve. 


15* 


174 


SILK  WARP  PRINTING. 


No.  19.  DARK  FAWN. 

1 quart  of  Water,  1 pint  of  Berry  Liquor,  12° 
Twaddell,  1 pint  of  Logwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell, 
4 ozs.  of  Sal  Ammoniac,  2 lbs.  of  Catechu,  when 
dissolved,  add  1 pint  of  V.  Copper  Liquor;  thicken 
with  British  Gum. 

No.  20.  LIGHT  FAWN. 

Take  1 of  the  above  to  4 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  21.  DARK  DRAB. 

1 quart  of  Logwood,  12°  Twaddell,  1 quart  of 
Sumac,  6°  Twaddell,  2 quarts  of  Berry  Liquor,  12° 
Twaddell,  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  2 quarts  of  Copperas 
Buff*  thicken  with  British  Gum. 

No.  22.  LIGHT  DRAB. 

Add  2 of  the  above  to  4 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  23.  DARK  DAHLIA. 

1 gallon  of  Red  Archil,  1 gallon  of  Sapan  Liquor, 
8°  Twaddell,  6 lbs.  of  Gum  Senegal,  raise  in  a weak 
Ammonia  Liquor. 

No.  24.  LIGHT  DAHLIA. 

Add  1 of  the  above  to  4 of  Gum  W ater. 

No.  25.  DARK  BLUE. 

2 quarts  of  Water,  2 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash, 
when  dissolved,  add  2 quarts  of  Gum  Water,  4 ozs. 
of  Tartaric  Acid;  when  cold,  add  J a noggin  of 
Sulphuric  Acid. 

No.  26.  LIGHT  BLUE. 

In  1 gallon  of  Gum  Water  dissolve  2 ozs.  of 
Tartaric  Acid ; and  then  add  1 pint  of  Extract  of 
Indigo. 


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175 


No.  27.  DARK  GREEN. 

1 gallon  of  Berry  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  12  ozs. 
Alum,  2 lbs.  of  Prussiate  of  Potash,  4 ozs.  of  Oxalic 
Acid ; when  dissolved,  thicken  with  3 lbs.  of  G-um 
Senegal,  3 noggins  of  Vinegar  ; add  1 noggin  of 
Muriate  of  Tin,  stirring  it  well  while  adding  it,  to 
which  add  1 quart  of  Extract  of  Indigo. 

No.  28.  LIGHT  GREEN. 

Add  1 of  the  above  to  3 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  29.  SLATE  STANDARD. 

5 quarts  of  Red  Liquor,  18°  Twaddell,  1 gill  of 
Iron  Liquor,  22°  Twaddell,  add  5 parts  of  the  above 
to  1 of  Bronze  Logwood,  add  2 parts  of  the  above 
Standard  to  1 of  Gum  Water,  for  the  Dark  Slate 
Color. 

No.  30.  LIGHT  SLATE  COLOR. 

Add  1 of  the  Standard  to  8 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  31.  RED  RUBY 

1 gallon  of  Bronze  Peachwood,  3 lbs.  of  Gum 
Senegal,  1 lb.  of  Ground  Alum,  at  blood  heat,  add  1 
gill  of  Oxy-Muriate  of  Tin. 

No.  32.  MAZE. 

7 pints  of  Water,  3 ozs.  of  Pearlash,  1J  lb.  of 
Annotta. 

No.  33.  DARK  LAVENDER. 

1 of  Dark  Purple,  No.  13,  1 of  Blue,  No.  15,  2 of 
Gum  Water. 

No.  34.  LIGHT  LAVENDER. 

1 of  Dark  Purple,  No.  13,  1 of  Blue,  No.  15,  6 of 
Water 


176 


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No.  35.  DARK  MAROON. 

1 quart  of  Bronze  Logwood,  1 quart  of  Brc  nze 
Peachwood,  1 quart  of  Y.  Copper  Liquor.  Thicken 
with  3 lbs.  of  British  Gum.  Boil  well,  and  then  add 
1 quart  of  Red  Liquor  at  18°  Twaddell. 

No.  36.  LIGHT  MAROON. 

2 quarts  of  Catechu  Liquor,  10°  Twaddell,  2 quarts 
of  Sumac  Liquor,  6°  Twaddell,  thicken  with  Gum 
Senegal,  and  then  add  6 ozs.  of  Nitro-Muriate  of 
Tin. 

No.  37.  DARK  GRAIN  CRIMSON. 

1 lb.  of  Ground  Cochineal,  2 quarts  of  Spirits  of 
Ammonia,  mix  and  put  in  a hot  stove  for  24  hours, 
then  add  2 quarts  of  water,  and  boil  well ; thicken 
with  3 lbs.  of  Gum  Senegal,  and  then  add  8 ozs.  of 
Alum. 

No.  38.  PONTIA. 

1 gallon  of  Cochineal  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  thicken 
with  1 lb.  of  Starch,  at  blood  heat,  add  2 ozs.  of 
Alum,  2 ozs.  of  Oxalio  Acid,  and  2J  ozs.  of  Crystals 
of  Tin. 

No.  39.  ROSE. 

1 lb.  of  Ammoniacal  Cochineal  to  3 lbs.  of  Gum 
W ater. 

No.  40..  DARK  APRICOT. 

1 gallon  of  W ater,  4 lbs.  of  Catechu,  8 ozs.  of  Sal 
Ammoniac,  1 pint  of  Sapan  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell ; 
thicken  with  British  Gum,  add  1 pint  of  Copper 
Liquor,  1 gill  of  Muriate  of  Copper,  and  1 pint  of 
Red  Liquor. 


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177 


No.  41.  LIGHT  APEICOT. 

2 quarts  of  Persian  Berry  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  6 
ozs.  of  Alum,  1 quart  of  Maze  Color,  No.  32,  1 nog- 
gin of  Oxy-Muriate  of  Tin,  2 quarts  of  Gum  Water. 

No.  42.  DARK  RED  PURPLE. 

3 quarts  of  Bronze  Logwood,  12  ozs.  of  Alum,  for 
the  Standard.  For  the  Color,  use  2 of  Standard  to  1 
of  Red  Liquor  and  3 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  43.  LIGHT  RED  PURPLE. 

1 of  Standard,  1 of  Red  Liquor,  and  6 of  Gum 
W ater. 

No.  44.  DARK  ORANGE. 

4 quarts  of  Caustic  Pearlash,  8°  Twaddell,  2J  lbs. 
of  Annotta,  boil  well,  then  2 quarts  of  Water,  boil 
again,  then  add  2 ozs.  of  Tartaric  Acid,  and  2 ozs.  of 
Alum;  thicken  with  3 lbs.  of  British  Gum. 

No.  45.  LIGHT  ORANGE. 

1 of  the  above  to  3 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  46.  DARK  OLIYE. 

1 quart  of  Dark  Purple  Standard,  No.  13,  1 quart 
of  Bark  and  Fustic  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  1 pint  of 
Blue,  No.  15,  1 pint  of  Iron  Liquor,  22°  Twaddell, 
\ a noggin  of  Extract  of  Indigo,  4 quarts  of  Gum 
W ater. 


No.  47.  LIGHT  OLIYE. 

1 of  Dark  Olive,  No.  47,  4 of  Gum  Water,  and  1 
pint  of  Bark  Liquor  per  gallon. 


178 


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No.  48.  DARK  CINNAMON  BRONZE. 

1 gallon  of  Cochineal  Liquor,  4°  Twaddell,  6 
quarts  of  Persian  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  8 ozs.  of 
Paste  Extract  of  Indigo,  mix  very  well,  thicken  with 
5J  lbs.  of  British  Gum ; when  off  the  fire  add  8 ozs. 
of  Tin  Crystals,  when  nearly  cold  add  8 ozs.  of  Ox- 
alic Acid. 

No.  49.  LIGHT  CINNAMON  BROWN. 

Add  1 of  the  above,  No.  48,  to  3 of  Gum  Water. 

No.  50.  DARK  YELLOW. 

2 gallons  of  Persian  Berry  Liquor,  12°  Twaddell, 
8 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals,  boil  well,  thicken  with  1 lb. 
of  British  Gum  and  1 lb.  of  Flour;  when  off  the 
fire,  add  8 ozs.  of  Salt. 

No.  51.  LIGHT  YELLOW. 

2 quarts  of  Gum  Water,  1 quart  of  Bark  Liquor, 
8°  Twaddell,  1 quart  of  Red  Liquor,  18°  Twaddell, 
4 ozs.  of  Cream  of  Tartar. 

No.  52.  ORANGE  BROWN. 

2 quarts  of  Red  Archil,  4 gallons  of  Yellow  Color. 
To  make  Yellow  Color — 1 gallon  of  Persian  Berry 
Liquor,  12°  Twaddell,  12  ozs.  of  Alum,  1 gill  of  Oxy- 
Muriate  of  Tin,  4 quarts  of  thick  Gum  Water. 

No.  58.  LIGHT  ORANGE  BROWN. 

1 quart  of  Red  Archil,  6 quarts  of  Yellow  Color. 

No.  54.  HOW  TO  MAKE  BRONZE 
PEACHWOOD. 

1 gallon  of  Peachwood  Liquor,  8°  Twaddell,  8 ozs. 
of  Sal  Ammoniac;  when  cold,  add  1 pint  of  Sulphate 
of  Copper 


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179 


No.  55.  BRONZE  LOGWOOD. 

1 gallon  of  Logwood,  8°  T waddell,  8 ozs.  of  Sal 
Ammoniac ; when  dissolved,  add  1 pint  of  Copper 
Liquor. 

No.  56.  COPPER  LIQUOR. 

1 gallon  of  Water,  4 lbs.  of  Sulphate  of  Copper, 
4 lbs.  of  Sugar  of  Lead  ; use  only  the  clear  Liquor. 

No.  57.  ANNOTTA  LIQUOR. 

1 gallon  of  Caustic  Potash,  5°  Twaddell,  1 \ lb.  of 
Annotta,  and  boil  until  dissolved. 

No.  58.  COPPERAS  BUFF. 

1 gallon  of  Water,  4 lbs.  of  Copperas,  8 ozs.  of 
Sugar  of  Lead  ; use  only  the  clear  Liquor. 

No.  59.  AMMONIACAL  COCHINEAL. 

2 lbs.  of  fine  ground  Cochineal,  5 pints  of  strong 
Ammonia,  put  in  a close  jar,  and  place  it  in  a warm 
bath,  or  put  it  in  a hot  stove  for  24  hours ; then  add 
2 gallons  of  Water  and  boil  it  down  to  two  gallons, 
to  which  add  4 ozs.  of  Alum,  4 ozs.  of  Oxalic  Acid, 
and  4 ozs.  of  Tin  Crystals. 

No.  60.  EXTRACT  OF  INDIGO,  FOR 
PRINTING. 

Add  3 lbs.  of  Paste  Extract  to  1 gallon  of  Water. 

No.  61.  DARK  PRUSSIATE  LIQUOR. 

2 gallons  of  Water,  8 lbs.  of  Prussiate,  8 lbs.  of 
Tartaric  Acid,  and  1 noggin  of  Sulphate  of  Indigo. 

No.  62.  SULPHATE  OF  INDIGO. 

• Add  1 lb.  of  good  Indigo  to  4 lbs.  of  Sulphuric 
Acid,  (Oil  of  Vitriol.) 


- 

. 


- 


HOW  TO  SET  COPPERAS  VATS. 


HOW  TO  SET  A COPPERAS  YAT  FOR  DYEING 
COTTON  WARPS  AND  HANKS. 

In  a half  pipe  tub  of  cold  water,  add  12  lbs.  of  ground 
Tndigo;  the  Indigo  must  be  ground  in  a barrel  with  water. 
To  this  add  12  lbs.  of  new  slacked  Lime  and  24  lbs.  of  Cop- 
peras. Stir  well  a few  times,  and  in  the  course  of  24  hours  it 
will  be  ready  for  use. 

This  will  be  a good  vat,  and  will  dye  a great  quantity  of 
Cotton.  It  will  dye  a very  good  shade  of  Blue  by  passing  the 
Cotton  once  through,  and  darker  shades  by  passing  through 
again.  When  the  vat  is  nearly  worn  out,  add  to  it  a few 
pounds  of  Copperas,  and  a pound  or  two  of  Potash,  which 
will  revive  it  again.  By  this  means  all  the  strength  of  the 
Indigo  may  be  got  out  of  it.  Some  Dyers  use  considerably 
more  Copperas  in  the  setting,  but  this  is  enough  when  very 
bright  shades  are  required. 

HOW  TO  SET  A COPPERAS  YAT  FOR  PIECE 
DYEING. 

In  a large  vat  add  20  lbs.  of  Indigo,  well  ground  as  before, 
100  lbs.  of  Copperas,  and  30  lbs.  new  slacked  Lime.  Stir 
well  for  half  an  hour  until  it  has  a Yellow  Appearance,  and 
in  the  course  of  24  hours  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  After 
working  the  vat  for  some  length  of  time,  add  a little  more 
Copperas. 


A SHORT  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DYEWARES 
MENTIONED  IN  THIS  WORK. 

Alum. — This  salt  is  prepared  from  certain  clays  containing 
pyrites.  It  is  used  very  extensively  in  dyeing,  in  consequence 
16  (181) 


182 


DYEWARES. 


of  the  attraction  which  Alumina  has  for  coloring  matter.  It 
is  used  as  a mordant  or  base  for  Mock  Crimson,  Maroon, 
Claret,  Purple,  &c.,  as  maybe  seen  in  the  foregoing  Receipts. 
However,  in  the  dyeing  of  colors  generally,  Bichromate  of 
Potass  supersedes  the  use  of  Alum,  being  less  injurious  to  the 
fabric,  and  giving  a greater  depth  of  color,  and  requiring 
smaller  quantities  of  Dyewoods  for  the  same  shade.  Alum  is 
sometimes  used  after  chroming,  when  the  color  is  too  full, 
being  made  lighter  by  adding  a little.  When  the  shade  is  too 
Blue,  a little  Alum  will  redden  it. 

Annotta. — This  is  obtained  from  an  American  tree,  called 
bixa  orellana,  and  it  is  imported  in  the  form  of  a paste,  of  a 
brick  red  color.  It  is  soluble,  or  spent  by  Pearlash  at  boil- 
ing heat.  It  is  used  in  dyeing  various  colors  upon  Cotton  and 
Silks,  viz:  Buff,  Salmon,  Flat  Yellow,  Orange,  and  some 
Fawn  shades  of  Drab.  The  colors  may  be  raised  by  running 
in  weak  Nitric  or  Sulphuric  Acid. 

Archil. — This  is  a Blue-red  or  Yiolet  paste  obtained  from 
the  Lichen  rocella , grown  in  the  South  of  France,  and  in  the 
Canary  Islands,  where  the  best  is  produced.  Alone  it  pro- 
duces a Ruby  color,  and  a very  light  Violet  by  adding  a little 
Ammonia,  or  other  Alkalies.  It  reddens  Indigo  Blues,  and 
combined  with  Logwood  produces  Purple. 

Ammonia. — Liquid  Ammonia  is  generally  distilled  from  Gas 
Liquor ; it  is  sometimes  made  from  Ammoniacal  salts  and 
Lime,  but  the  best  for  dyeing  purposes  is  made  from  Urine. 
It  is  very  much  used  by  Dyers  for  the  purpose  of  blueing 
Crimsons,  Clarets,  Purples,  &c.  It  is  also  used  in  making 
Paste  Cochineal.  See  Receipt  No.  31,  Worsted  Yam  Dyeing. 

Argol. — It  is  obtained  from  the  juice  of  the  grape,  and  is 
a crystallized  incrustation  generally  found  in  Wine  Casks.  It 
becomes  white  when  purified  by  solution  and  crystallization, 
and  is  then  called  Cream  of  Tartar.  In  dyeing,  Argol  com- 
bined with  Alum,  is  generally  used  in  the  preparation  or  boil- 
ing of  Mock  Crimsons,  Maroons,  Clarets,  and  Purples.  It  is 
excellent  in  giving  solidity  to  these  and  other  colors.  Being 
a weak  Acid,  it  is  the  best  for  dyeing  bright  Greens,  working 
well  with  Extract,  Sulphate  of  Indigo  and  is  not  destructive 
to  Fustic.  It  is  frequently  used  in  dyeing  the  Spirit  colors, 
as  Scarlet,  Orange,  and  Grain  Crimson : but  Cream  of  Tartar 
is  preferable  for  Yellows,  Pinks,  Salmons,  and  other  light 
Spirit  colors. 


DYEWARES. 


183 


Super  Argol. — It  is  made  from  Sal  enixen,  or  Sulphate  of 
Soda,  and  sometimes  from  common  Salt-cake.  As  an  Acid,  it 
is  used  for  dyeing  Drabs,  and  Greens  when  Turmeric  is  used 
instead  of  Fustic.  Also  for  Olives  and  Browns.  It  is  much 
cheaper  than  either  Argol  or  Brown  Tartar,  and  in  some  cases 
is  preferable. 

Camwood. — This  is  a dark  red  Wood,  containing  strong 
coloring  matter  which  is  of  a permanent  nature,  and  is  gene- 
rally used  for  dyeing  Browns  and  Olives  upon  Worsted  Goods. 
It  is  most  soluble  in  Sulphuric  Acid  diluted  with  water.  In 
the  dyeing  of  Woollens,  it  is  sometimes  employed  as  a substi- 
tute for  Red  Sanders,  producing  a more  fiery  appearance  in 
Browns  of  light  and  middle  shades. 

Catechu. — Catechu  is  an  extract  from  the  heart-wood  of  the 
Khair  Tree  of  the  East  Indies.  The  coloring  matter  is  some- 
times extracted  by  Sulphate  of  Copper,  and  sometimes  by 
Nitrate  of  Copper  ; but  Bichromate  of  Potass  is  a more  efficient 
extractor  of  this  color.  It  is  used  in  dyeing  Cotton  a variety 
of  shades,  varying  from  a light  Drab  to  a dark  Brown. 

Cochineal. — Is  a small  Mexican  Insect  containing  strong 
coloring  matter,  very  permanent.  It  is  used  in  dyeing  Pinks, 
Rose  colors,  Oranges,  Scarlets,  and  Crimsons.  The  mode  of 
extracting  the  coloring  matter  is  by  means  of  Nitrate  of  Tin 
and  Muriate  of  Tin ; Oxalic  Tin  gives  the  brightest  color. 
These  Acids  for  bright  shades  are  combined  with  White  or 
Brown  Tartar. 

Chrome,  or  Bichromate  of  Potass. — This  is  a red  orange 
Crystal,  and  is  of  very  great  use  as  a mordant  in  dyeing  Blacks 
and  other  dark  colors  upon  Worsteds  and  Woollen  Goods, 
giving  greater  permanence  than  any  other  mordant  previously 
employed.  Its  excellent  properties,  in  this  respect,  have  only 
of  late  been  appreciated,  and  it  is  now  becoming  generally 
used.  The  Author  of  this  work  unhesitatingly  affirms  that  he 
was  the  first  person  in  the  neighborhood  of  Halifax  to  dye 
colors  from  Bichromate  of  Potass.  It  effects  a great  saving 
of  time  and  expense,  &c. 

Cudbear.  (See  Archil.) — Cudbear  is  a dry  powder,  of  a fine 
Blue-red  color,  and  will  dye  a Ruby  itself,  either  upon  Silk 
Worsted  or  Woollen  ; a Violet  with  a little  Logwood;  a Pur- 
ple or  Adelaide,  by  previously  undergoing  the  Chroming  pro- 
cess. See  Receipts  Nos.  6 and  7,  Orleans  from  Black  Warps, 


184 


DYE  WARES. 


It  is  used  in  dyeing  Lavenders,  Drabs,  and  various  other 
shades  for  the  red  part  of  the  color. 

Cbemic,  or  Sulphate  of  Indigo. — This  is  blue  paste  pre- 
pared from  Indigo,  and  contains  more  of  it  in  solution  than 
any  other  preparation  of  it  whatever.  For  Dye  purposes 
it  is  thus  made : Put  into  a Stone  Jar  36  lbs.  of  Sulphuric 
Acid,  to  which  add  12  lbs.  of  ground  Indigo  gradually,  stir 
well  for  1 hour.  After  standing  a few  hours  it  will  be  fit  for 
use.  This  Chemic  is  much  cheaper  than  Extract  of  Indigo 
for  dyeing  some  colors,  as  Greens,  Olives,  and  Browns.  Ex- 
tracts of  Indigo  are  only  modifications  of  this  Chemic,  being 
partly  neutralized  and  filtered. 

French  Berry,  or  Persian  Berry. — This  is  the  fruit  of  the 
Bhamnus  Infectorius.  They  yield  a bright  Yellow  coloring 
matter,  which  is  employed  in  dyeing  light  Yellow  shades  upon 
Cotton ; also  for  light  Greens,  with  either  Extract  of  Indigo  or 
Prussiate  of  Potass.  They  also  give  the  Fawn  shade  to  Drabs. 
Combined  with  Alum,  or  Crystals  of  Tin,  a fine  Golden  Yellow 
is  obtained. 

Fustic,  or  Young  Fustic. — The  best  Old  Fustic  is  imported 
from  Cuba,  and  yields  a permanent  Yellow  coloring  matter 
when  combined  with  Alum  and  Argol  in  dyeing  various  shades 
of  Greens.  See  Receipts  Nos.  12  and  13,  Colored  Merinos; 
also  used  after  Chroming  for  Olives  of  different  shades  ; see 
Receipt  No.  7,  Orleans  from  Black  Warps,  &c.  Young  Fustic 
is  chiefly  used  in  dying  Yellows,  Oranges,  and  Scarlets.  See 
Receipts  from  8 to  11,  Colored  Orleans.  It  gives  a bright  Yel- 
low when  combined  with  Nitrate,  Muriate,  or  Oxalic  Tin,  the 
last  being  the  most  effectual. 

Galls. — The  Gall-nut  is  chiefly  imported  from  Aleppo.  It 
yields  an  astringent  Black  coloring  matter  when  combined  with 
Copperas  and  Logwood ; and  is  generally  employed  in  dye- 
ing Silver  Drabs  upon  Cotton,  when  combined  with  Nitrate  of 
Iron.  As  a Dyeware,  it  gives  greater  solidity  than  Sumac 
for  those  light  shades.  V clones  have  nearly  the  same  pro- 
perties. 

Indigo. — It  is  produced  from  the  leaves  of  Indigo/era,  a 
plant  cultivated  in  South  America,  East  Indies,  &c.  It  is  a 
very  permanent  coloring  matter,  employed  in  dyeing  the  ma- 
jority of  colors,  varying  from  a Drab  to  an  Indigo  Blue.  The 
color  produced  by  it  is  rften  imitated  by  dyeing  with  Log- 


DYEWARES. 


185 


wood,  Worsted  and  Woollens  which  have  previously  under- 
gone the  Chroming  process.  See  Receipt  No.  32,  Worsted 
Yarn  Dyeing, 

Kermes,  or  Lac  Dye. — It  is  obtained  from  an  insect  depo- 
sited on  different  species  of  Trees  in  the  East  Indies  and 
other  places.  It  contains  red  coloring  matter,  very  like  that 
of  Cochineal,  and  is  frequently  used  as  a substitute  for  it, 
being  thought  by  some  Chemists  to  possess  more  permanence. 
It  dyes  good  Scarlets  along  with  Nitrate  of  Tin,  or  Oxalic 
Tin,  and  Tartar.  This  Dye  is  much  cheaper  than  Cochineal, 
and  the  difference  of  color  is  only  slightly  perceptible.  See 
Receipts  Nos.  10  and  11. 

Logwood.— This  is  a Dark  Red  Dyewood,  and  is  much  em- 
ployed in  Dyeing  Black  upon  Silk,  Cotton,  and  Woollen  ; also 
for  Blues  and  many  other  colors.  Logwood,  on  first  being  in- 
troduced into  England,  was  denounced  by  the  cultivators  of 
the  native  Woad,  and  even  prohibited  in  England  by  Queen 
Elizabeth.  All  imported  was  to  be  destroyed ; nor  was  it 
allowed  to  be  used  till  the  reign  of  Charles  the  Second. 

Madder. — This  is  obtained  from  the  root  of  the  Rubia  Tinc- 
torum , which  grows  wild  in  the  South  of  Europe,  &c.  It  is 
an  article  of  great  importance  in  dyeing.  Madder  possesses 
five  distinct  coloring  principles,  viz.,  madder  red,  madder  pur- 
ple, madder  orange,  madder  yellow,  and  madder  brown.  These 
colors  are  of  most  use  to  Calico  Printers.  It  is  also  used  by 
Dyers  to  deaden  Drabs ; and  with  Acids,  &c.,  to  dye  many 
shades  of  Drabs.  See  Receipts  Nos.  37  and  38,  Colored  Me- 
rinos. 

Nitric  Acid,  or  Aqua  Fortis. — This  Spirit  is  much  used 
in  dyeing.  It  is  made  from  Nitrate  of  Potass,  or  Nitrate  of 
Soda,  and  Sulphuric  Acid.  It  will  dye  Silk  yellow  of  itself, 
but  is  generally  killed  with  Tin  for  Worsted  and  Woollens. 

Nitrates. — Nitrate  of  Tin  is  Aqua  Fortis  killed  with  Tin, 
which  is  used  in  dyeing  Yellows,  Buffs,  Scarlets,  and  Crimsons, 
upon  Worsted  and  Woollen  Goods.  See  Receipt  No.  47,  Wor- 
sted Yarns.  Nitrate  of  Iron  is  Aqua  Fortis  killed  with  Iron, 
or  Copperas.  It  is  used  for  dyeing  Buffs  upon  Cotton,  and  as 
a mordant  or  preparation  for  other  colors.  Nitrate  of  Copper 
is  Aqua  Fortis  killed  with  Copper,  which  is  very  useful  for 
spending  Catechu,  combined  with  Sulphate  of  Copper. 


186 


DYEWARES. 


Oxalic  Tin. — This  is  a most  valuable  Spirit  for  dying  all 
grain  colors,  brighter  colors  being  obtained  by  it  than  by 
either  Nitrate  of  Tin  or  Muriate  of  Tin.  It  it  the  best  de- 
stroyer of  Gum,  sometimes  found  in  Lac,  and  which  is  very 
injurious  in  dyeing.  In  Woollens  it  is  very  penetrating,  dye- 
ing the  piece  through,  however  strong,  without  leaving  any 
white  appearance.  As  yet,  it  is  only  partially  known  by  the 
Dyers,  but  much  approved  by  those  who  have  tested  its  ex- 
cellency. 

Peachwood. — This  is  used  for  dyeing  Mock  Crimsons,  Ma- 
roons, and  Clarets,  upon  Worsted,  Woollen,  and  Cotton  Goods, 
as  may  be  seen  from  many  of  the  Receipts  in  this  book.  It 
dyes  very  bright  colors  after  a preparation  of  Alum,  and 
darker  shades  of  the  same  colors  after  a preparation  of  Chrome. 

Prussiate  of  Potass. — This  is  made  from  Pearlash  and 
animal  substances,  as  horns  and  hoofs ; it  is  very  extensively 
used  by  Dyers  for  dyeing  Prussian  Blues,  varying  from  a Sky 
to  a Royal  Blue  upon  Cotton  Fabrics.  The  Bright  Victoria 
Blue  is  obtained  from  Prussiate  as  follows : First  rinse  the 
Yarns  or  Warps  in  a solution  of  Nitrate  of  Iron  and  a few 
Crystals  of  Tin  ; then  rinse  in  a solution  of  Prussiate.  The 
best  mode,  however,  is  by  first  rinsing  in  Muriate  of  Tin,  di- 
luted with  Water;  then  in  a decoction  of  Logwood,  after 
which,  let- them  pass  through  the  first  process  above  described, 
with  less  Prussiate.  This  mode  will  produce  a more  bloomy 
color  than  that  obtained  by  the  first  mode. 

Quercitron  Bark. — This  is  obtained  from  the  Yellow  Oak 
( quercus  negra.)  growing  in  North  America.  It  furnishes  an 
excellent  Yellow  color.  Alum  and  Muriate  of  Tin  are  the 
principal  mordants  employed  in  dyeing  Woollen  and  Cotton, 
but  Oxalic  Tin  is  the  most  efficient.  It  produces  excellent 
Drabs  upon  Cotton  with  Nitrate  of  Iron. 

Safflower. — The  flowers  of  the  Carthamus  Tindorius, 
grown  chiefly  in  Spain,  contain  two  coloring  matters,  yellow 
and  red ; the  yellow  is  carried  off  by  well  washing  in  water 
until  the  flowers  assume  a bright  crimson  appearance ; the  red 
coloring  matter  is  extracted  by  steeping  in  Pearlash  and 
water,  with  occasional  stirring ; the  liquor  is  then  pressed 
from  the  flower,  and  is  ready  for  dyeing  Pink  upon  Cotton 
fabrics  combined  with  a little  Tartaric  or  Sulphuric  Acid. 
There  is  also  a decoction  of  Safflower,  which  is  sold  in  bot- 
tles. See  Receipt  No.  1,  Shot  Cobourgs. 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER. 


187 


Saunders,  or  Red  Sandal. — This  is  the  wood  of  the  Ptero- 
carpus  santalznus,  grown  in  India.  It  possesses  deep  red 
coloring  matter,  and  is  used  chiefly  in  dyeing  Woollen  Goods. 
It  is  more  permanent  than  Peachwood,  though  not  of  so 
bright  a color. 

Sapan  Wood. — This  wood  produces  a red  color,  similar  to 
that  obtained  from  Peachwood,  but  it  is  not  so  much  used  for 
dyeing  purposes.  It  is  generally  sold  in  the  liquid  state,  and 
is  used  in  Padding  and  Printing.  See  Receipt  No.  2,  Art  of 
Padding. 

Sumac. — This  astringent  vegetable  production  is  extensively 
used,  chiefly  for  Cotton  dyeing.  It  is  used  as  the  base  of  many 
colors.  The  best  is  that  imported  from  Sicily,  It  has  great 
affinity  for  Iron,  which,  when  combined  with  Sumac  in  certain 
proportions,  imparts  to  Cotton  a variety  of  shades  from  Sil- 
ver Drab  to  Black. 

Turmeric. — This  is  the  root  of  a plant  cultivated  in  the 
East  Indies,  and  contains  much  yellow  coloring  matter.  It 
is  frequently  used  instead  of  Fustic,  but  is  not  so  permanent. 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER  BY  TESTS,  OR 
RE-AGENTS. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  BE  HARD  OR  SOFT. 

Procure  a small  quantity  of  Soap  dissolved  in  Alcohol,  and 
let  a few  drops  of  it  fall  into  a glass  of  the  water  to  be  tried. 
If  the  water  becomes  milky  it  is  hard ; but  if  little  or  no  milki- 
ness takes  place,  the  water  may  be  said  to  be  soft. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  AN  ACID. 

Take  a piece  of  paper,  containing  no  sizing,  and  which  has 
been  previously  stained  with  Litmus,  Syrup  of  Violets,  or 
scrapings  of  Radishes,  and  immerse  it  in  the  water  to  be  ex- 
amined ; if  the  paper  becomes  red,  it  contains  an  Acid.  If  a 
little  lime-water  be  added  to  the  same  water,  and  a precipitate 
takes  place,  it  is  Carbonic  Acid.  If  dark  blue  paper,  such  as 


188 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER. 


is  wrapped  round  loaves  of  sugar,  be  converted  to  red,  it  con- 
tains a Mineral  Acid. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAINS  ALKALI 
OR  AN  EARTH. 

Take  a piece  of  paper  which  has  been  stained  with  an  infu- 
sion of  Litmus,  and  reddened  by  vinegar,  and  immerse  it  in 
water ; if  the  blue  color  of  the  paper  be  restored,  it  neither 
contains  an  alkali  or  an  earth. 

If  a little  of  the  Syrup  of  Violets  be  added  to  the  water 
which  contains  an  alkali  or  an  earth,  the  water  will  become 
Green. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  IRON. 

Take  a glass  of  water  and  add  to  it  a few  drops  of  the  infu- 
sion of  Nutgalls,  or  suspend  a Nutgall  in  it,  by  means  of  a 
thread,  for  24  hours ; if  Iron  be  present,  the  water  will  be- 
come of  a dark  Brown  or  Black  color. 

Prussiate  of  Potash  is  a still  more  delicate  test  for  detecting 
Iron.  If  a Crystal,  or  a drop  of  it  when  dissolved,  be  added 
to  a glass  of  water  containing  Iron,  it  will  immediately  be- 
come of  a Blue  color. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  ANY 
SUBSTANCE  COMBINED  WITH  MURIATIC  ACID. 

Take  a glass  of  water  and  let  a few  drops  of  Nitrate  of  Sil- 
ver fall  into  it ; if  a milkiness  be  produced,  which  disappears 
on  the  addition  of  a little  Liquid  Ammonia,  it  may  be  con- 
cluded that  some  salt  with  Muriatic  Acid  is  present.  Muriate 
of  Lime,  Muriate  of  Soda  (common  salt),  and  Muriate  of 
Magnesia,  are  the  salts  most  generally  to  be  met  with  in 
spring  water. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  MAGNESIA. 

Take  a quantity  of  the  water,  and  boil  down  to  a twentieth 
part  of  its  bulk,  then  drop  a few  grains  of  Carbonate  of  Am- 
monia into  a small  glass  of  water.  No  Magnesia  will  yet  be 
precipitated  ; but  on  adding  a small  quantity  of  Phosphate  of 
Soda,  if  any  Magnesia  be  present,  it  will  then  make  its  ap- 
pearance, and  fall  to  the  bottom  of  the  glass.  Observation. — 
In  this  experiment,  it  is  necessary  that  the  Carbonate  of  Am- 
monia be  in  a neutral  state. 


EXAMINATION  OF  WATER. 


189 


TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  PURE  LIME. 

Into  a glass  of  the  water  drop  a Crystal  or  two  of  Oxalic 
Acid ; if  a precipitate  takes  place,  and  if  another  glass  of  the 
same  water  becomes  milky  upon  blowing  air  from  the  lungs 
into  it  through  a quill,  the  presence  of  pure  Lime,  or  Barytes, 
may  be  inferred  : but  Barytes  has  never  yet  been  found  pure 
in  water. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  CARBONIC 
ACID. 

Take  a quantity  of  the  water,  and  add  to  it  an  equal  quan 
tity  of  perfectly  transparent  lime  water.  If  Carbonic  Acid 
be  present,  either  free  or  combined,  a precipitate  immediately 
appears,  which  on  adding  a few  drops  of  Muriatic  Acid  will 
again  be  dissolved  with  effervescence. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  ANY  COM- 
BINATION OF  SULPHUR. 

Put  a little  Quicksilver  into  a phial  of  water,  cork  it,  and 
let  it  stand  for  a few  hours.  If  the  surface  of  the  quicksilver 
has  acquired  a black  appearance,  and  a blackish  powder  sepa- 
rates from  it  on  shaking  the  phial,  the  presence  of  Sulphur 
may  be  inferred. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  LEAD. 

To  a little  of  the  water  in  a glass  add  an  equal  portion  of 
water  impregnated  with  Sulphuretted  Gas.  If  Lead  be  pre- 
sent, it  will  be  known  by  the  color  of  the  water,  which  will 
assume  a dark  Brown  or  blackish  tinge.  Observation. — Lead 
may  be  also  detected  by  adding  a little  Sulphuret  of  Ammonia 
or  Potash.  A similar  effect  will  take  place  as  in  the  last  ex- 
periment, if  lead  be  present. 

TO  ASCERTAIN  IF  WATER  CONTAIN  COPPER. 

Immerse  a polished  plate  of  Iron  in  the  water  to  be  exam- 
ined, and  let  it  remain  in  a few  minutes.  If  Copper  be 
present,  the  plate  of  Iron  will  be  coated  over  with  Copper. 
Observation. — A few  drops  of  Liquid  Ammonia  will  turn  any 
water  containing  Copper  to  a deep  blue  color. 


190 


EXPLANATION  OF  TERMS. 


EXPLANATION  OF  TERMS,  ETC. 

A Tut  is  equal  to  about  ^ of  a Pint. 

A Pailful  will  amount  to  about  3 or  4 Gallons. 

Dishful. — Instead  of  using  this  term,  10  lbs.  has  been  sub- 
stituted in  the  course  of  this  work. 

Where  it  is  said  Worsted  dye,  with  a certain  quantity  of 
wares,  it  means  that  the  Worsted  must  be  dyed  before  the 
Cotton,  and  the  Cotton  afterwards. 

When  it  is  said  Sumac , it  means  that  the  Pieces  must  be 
run  in  Sumac  Liquor,  prepared  in  the  following  manner : — 
boil  up  about  100  lbs.  in  the  bottom  of  a Cistern,  stir  it  up  well 
for  about  15  minutes,  and  then  add  sufficient  cold  water  ; this 
will  be  about  sufficient  for  80  Pieces  ; the  first  40  to  be  turned 
on  about  half  an  hour,  the  latter  to  be  turned  on  about  an 
hour,  or  to  be  steeped  in  the  liquor  for  the  same  length  of 
time.  After  about  80  Pieces  have  been  prepared,  the  liquor 
will  still  retain  some  strength,  and  by  adding  a little  more 
Sumac,  either  boiled  or  dry,  the  Liquor  will  then  prepare  80 
Pieces  more,  by  being  steeped  in  all  night,  and  draining 
out  all  the  strength.  Less  Sumac  will  be  required  when  a 
considerable  quantity  of  Pieces  are  prepared,  but  not  less  than 
2 lbs.  to  a Piece  will  prepare  10  at  once.  But  where  a Sumac 
Vessel  is  continually  used,  the  better  way  is  to  boil  up  a quan- 
tity of  Sumac  at  once  in  a separate  vessel,  and  replenish  as 
occasion  may  require.  Some  Dyers  prefer  a mere  effusion  of 
Sumac  in  cold  water. 

When  it  is  said  Iron , it  means  to  run  the  Pieces  in  diluted 
Nitrate  of  Iron.  When  a vessel  is  first  used,  a little  more 
Iron  is  required  than  is  stated  in  some  of  the  Receipts  for 
White  Warped  Orleans  and  Cobourgs;  but  no  more  than  is 
stated  after  the  vessel  is  seasoned  ; for  the  more  Iron  is  used, 
the  Blacker  appearance  the  Pieces  will  have.  Where  the 
least  Iron  can  be  used  the  clearer  the  Pieces  will  appear. 
It  is  not  advisable  to  work  the  same  Liquor  more  than  a few 
days,  wherever  Sumaced  Pieces  are  being  continually  run  in 
it,  for  it  frequently  precipitates  the  Iron  and  Sumac  together, 
forming  a sort  of  paste  of  a blubber  appearance,  which  leaves 
streaks  and  stains  in  the  Pieces  which  cannot  be  seen  in  the 


EXPLANATION  OF  TERMS.  ' 


191 


Ironed  state.  I have  had  Pieces  dried  after  being  Ironed,  to 
prove  how  the  stains  were  produced,  and  I have  found  them 
to  have  been  produced  in  the  Ironing  process.  Some  Dyers, 
not  properly  understanding  the  nature  of  the  article,  use  pail- 
ful after  pailful  of  Nitrate  of  Iron,  where  one-fourth  of  the 
quantity  would  do  much  better.  It  has  a great  affinity  for 
Sumac,  and  as  soon  as  it  comes  in  contact  with  it,  it  produces 
a dark  slate  or  thin  black  color  ; by  adding  a portion  of  Log- 
wood a Black  is  formed.  Sometimes  the  Nitrate  of  Iron  may 
not  be  sufficiently  killed,  or  has  not  sufficient  Iron  in  it. 
When  this  is  the  case,  it  will  destroy  the  Sumac,  and  leave 
the  Cotton  a thin  Drab,  instead  of  a thin  Black,  and  it  will 
not  take  Logwood  for  Black ; and  if  the  warp  be  for  a Brown 
or  Claret,  the  Piece  has  to  be  Cotton  dyed  again ; the  effect 
of  which  is  seldom  seen  until  the  pieces  are  dyed,  which,  if 
Cotton  dyed  in  this  manner,  are  never  so  handsome. 

To  Spirit  means  to  run,  or  prepare,  say  10  Pieces,  in  about 
1 Quart  of  Muriate  of  Tin,  diluted  with  water,  in  a Cistern 
which  will  hold  the  Pieces  conveniently,  and  turned  on  about 
8 ends  ; 20  or  30  Pieces  may  be  Spirited  by  adding  half  a 
pint  more  Spirits.  Some  Dyers  prefer  Spiriting  and  Ironing 
in  Troughs  made  for  the  purpose,  and  this  plan  is  certainly 
more  expeditious,  and  does  not  require  so  much  Spirit. 


I 


INDEX 


PAGE 

Acetate  of  copper,  to  make 165 

Acid,  nitric 185 

Acid,  to  detect  in  water 187 

Adelaide  from  black  warp,  silk  stripe  138 

Adelaide,  merinos 154 

Adelaide,  Orleans 142 

Adelaide,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs 145 

Aqua  fortis 185 

Alkali,  to  detect  in  water 188 

Alum 181 

Amber,  for  printing 172 

Amber,  gold  lists 87 

Ammonia 182 

Ammoniacal  cochineal,  for  printing.  179 

Annotta 182 

Annotta,  how  to  spend 49 

Annotta  liquor,  for  printing 179 

Apple  green  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Apple  green  for  worsted  yarn 79,  80 

Apple  green,  merinos 152 

Apple  green,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs.  145 

Apricot,  for  printing 176, 177 

Archil 182 

Argol 182 

Art  of  padding 160 

Ash  drab,  camlets 120 

Ash  drab,  lastings 125 

Bark  yellow,  for  cotton 44 

Bark  yellow,  for  silk 51 

Barwood  red,  for  cotton 40 

Berry,  French, 184 

Persian, 184 

Bichromate  of  potass 183 

Bixa,  orellana 182 

Black  camlets 123 

Black  and  crimson,  shot  Cobourgs...  134 

Black,  damask 102 

Black,  blue  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Black,  flushing.... 89 

Black,  for  cotton 42,  43 

Black,  for  silk , 55,  59 

Black,  for  wool 19,  20 

Black,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

17 


Black,  lastings ; 128 

Black,  merinos 156 

Black,  moreens 106 

Black,  Orleans 143 

Black,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs 149 

Black  to  stand  boiling  and  scouring  42 
Black  warp,  Adelaide  for  silk  stripe  138 
Black  warp,  claret  for,  silk  stripe...  137 
Black  warp,  mulberry  for,  silk  stripe  138 

Black  warp,  olive  for,  silk  stripe 136 

Black  warps,  colored  Orleans 141 

Blacks,  for  silk 66 

Blacks,  for  printing 171 

Black,  to  pad 165 

Bleaching  cotton 48 

Bloom  pink  standard 164 

Bloomy  royal  blue,  shawls 157 

Blue  black,  for  silk 55 

Blue  black,  camlets 123 

Blue  black,  lastings 128 

Blue  black,  merinos 156 

Blue  black,  Orleans 143 

Blue  black,  for  wool 20 

Blue  black,  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Blue  black,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Blue,  camlets 121,  123 

Blue  claret,  Orleans 142 

Blue  and  coffee,  damask 117 

Blue,  crane  for  wool 22 

Blue  and  crimson,  damask 114, 115 

Blue  and  crimson,  shot  Cobourgs....  132 

Blue,  damask 98,  99 

Blue,  for  cotton 36,  43 

Blue,  for  printing 173,  174 

Blue,  for  silk 53,  54 

Blue,  for  woollen  yarn 73,  74 

Blue,  for  worsted  yarn 77, 83 

Blue,  lastings 126  129 

Blue  lavender,  for  woollen  yarn 74 

Blue,  light  for  wool 19 

Blue,  liquid,  flushings 92 

Blue,  logwood,  for  wool 19 

Blue,  logwood,  Bockins 92 

Blue,  logwood,  woollen  cloths 93 

193 


194 


INDEX, 


PAGE 

Blue,  merinos 150, 155 

Blue,  moreens .' 103, 109 

Blue,  Napoleon 67 

Blue,  Napoleon,  for  cotton 47 

Blue,  Orleans  and Cobourgs 149 

Blue  and  orange,  damask 115, 117 

Blue  and  orange,  shot  Cobourgs 131 

Blue  and  pink,  damask 114 

Blue  and  pink,  shot  Cobourgs.. ..131, 135 

Blue  purple,  for  cotton 46 

Blue  and  rose,  damasks 114 

Blue,  royal 170 

Blue,  royal,  cloth 88 

Blue  royal,  for  cotton 47 

Blue  royal,  for  wool 29 

Blue  royal,  longwools 88 

Blue  royal,  serges 88 

Blue,  royal,  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Blue,  royal,  orange  lists 88 

Blue,  royal,  standard 164 

Blue  and  ruby,  damask 116 

Blue  and  ruby,  shot  Cobourgs 132 

Blue  Saxon,  for  cotton 48 

Blue,  Saxony,  for  wool 30 

Blue  and  scarlet,  damask 117 

Blue,  shawls .’ 159 

Blue,  sky 169 

Blue,  sky  for  wool 30 

Blue,  sky,  orange  lists 87 

Blue,  slate  color,  for  wool 22 

Blue  standard 164, 168 

Blue,  Victoria  for  cotton 47 

Blue  and  yellow, damask 117 

Blue  and  yellow,  shot  Cobourgs 131 

Blues,  from  extract,  for  silk 53 

Blues,  from  prussiate,  for  silk 53 

Bockins,  claret.. 91 

Bockins,  logwood  blue 92 

Bockins,  maroon 93 

Bockins,  peachwood  red 90 

Bockins,  salmon 85 

Bockins,  scarlet 84 

Bockins,  yellow 87 

Bottle  green,  chromed  for  wool 27 

Bottle  green,  for  silk 61 

Bottle  green,  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Bottle  green,  for  worsted  yarn 78,  80 

Bottle  green,  lastings 127 

Bottle  green,  merinos 152 

Bright  royal  blue,  for  cotton 47 

Bright  vicuna,  for  woollen  yarn 69 

Broad  cloths,  crimson 87 

Broad  cloths,  dark  green 90 

Bronze  drabs,  for  silk 64 

Bronze  logwood,  for  printing 179 

Bronze,  for  printing 178 

Bronze  peachwood,  to  make 178 

Brown,  camlets 121, 122 

Brown,  chromed  purple  warp,  silk 

stripe 137 

Brown,  claret,  Honley’s 89 

Brown,  damask 100, 102 


PAGE 

Brown,  for  cotton 33,  34,  39,  40 

Brown,  for  printing....,, 172, 173,  178 

Brown,  for  silk 55,  56,  57 

Brown,  for  wool 25,  26,  28 

Brown,  for  woollen  yarn.69,  70,  71,  75,  76 

Brown,  for  worsted  yarn 81,  82,  83 

Brown,  lastings 127,  128 

Brown,  logwood 90 

Brown,  moreens 106, 107, 108 

Brown,  nut  wool 91 

Brown,  olive  from  black  warp,  silk 

stripe 136 

Brown,  olive  for  woollen  yarn 74 

Brown,  olive  for  worsted  yarn 80 

Brown,  olive,  ladies’  cloths 91 

Brown,  olive  merinos 154 

Brown,  olive  Orleans 142 

Brown,  olive  Orleans  and  Cobourgs.  146 

Brown,  Orleans 141 

Brown,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs. ..144, 147 

Brown,  pilot  cloths 89 

Buff,  damask 96 

Buff,  for  cotton 31,  38 

Buff,  for  silk 62 

Buff,  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Buff,  moreens 105 

Buff,  yellow  shawls 159 


California  browns,  for  silk 56 

California  color,  for  wool 21 

California  color,  for  Woollen  yarn....  69 

Camlet  dyeing 119 

Camlets,  scarlet 119 

Camwood 183 

Canary  color,  for  woof 30 

Canary  color,  for  worsted  yarn 80 

Carbonic  acid,  to  detect  in  water 189 

Carthamus  tinctorius 186 

Catechu 183 

Catechu  brown,  for  cotton 39,  40 

Catechu,  how  to  spend 48 

Chemic 184 

Chestnut,  longwools 90 

Chocolate,  for  silk 58 

Chocolate,  for  woollen  yarn 75 

Chrome 183 

Chrome,  flushing 89 

Chrome  orange,  for  cotton 34 

Chrome  yellow,  for  cotton 34 

Chromed  brown,  Orleans 141 

Chromed  brown,  purple  warp,  silk 

stripe 137 

Chromed  claret,  claret  purple  warp, 

silk  stripe 137 

Chromed  claret,  Orleans  and  Co- 
bourgs   145 

Chromed  green,  for  cotton 39 

Chromed  green,  for  wool 27 

Chromed  green,  for  woollen  yarn..  74,  75 

Chromed  green,  ladies’  cloth 90 

Chromed  green,  merinos 152 

Chromed  green,  Orleans 143 


INDEX, 


195 


PAGE 

Chromed  invisible  green,  merinos....  153 

Chromed  olive,  for  wool 24 

Chromed  purple,  merinos 153 

Cinnamon  bronze,  for  printing 178 

Cinnamon  brown,  damask 100 

Cinnamon  brown,  for  cotton 33 

Cinnamon  brown,  for  printing 178 

Cinnamon  brown,  for  woollen  yarn..  71 
Cinnamon  brown,  for  worsted  yarn..  82 

Cinnamon  brown,  moreens 107, 108 

Cinnamon  brown,  Orleans  and  Co- 

bourgs 144 

Cinnamon,  standard 167 

Cinnamon,  to  pad 168 

Claret,  Bockins 91 

Claret  brown,  claret  warp,  silk 

stripe 137, 138 

Claret  brown,  for  silk 56,  57 

Claret  brown,  for  woollen  yarn 75,  76 

Claret  brown,  for  worsted  yarn 81 

Claret  brown,  Honley’s 89 

Claret  brown,  lastings 128 

Claret  brown,  Orleans 142 

Claret  druggets 92 

Claret,  for  black  warp,  silk  stripe...  137 

Claret,  for  cotton 45 

Claret  for  printing 171 

Claret  for  purple  warp,  silk  stripel27, 138 

Clarets,  for  silk 58 

Claret,  for  wool 28 

Claret,  for  woollen  yarn 70,  75,  76 

Claret,  for  worsted  yarn 7 8 

Claret  and  green,  shot  Cobourgs 133 

Claret,  longwools 90 

Claret,  merinos 153, 154 

Claret,  Orleans 141,  142 

Claret,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs.144, 145, 147 
Claret  purple  warp,  chromed  claret, 

silk  stripe 137 

Claret  standard 165 

Claret,  to  pad 165 

Claret  warp,  claret  brown,  silk 

stripe 137,  138 

Cloth,  royal  blue 88 

Cloths,  ladies’  purple 89 

Cloths,  pilot  brown 89 

Cobourgs,  dyeing 131 

Cochineal 183 

Cochineal,  ammoniacal,  for  printing  179 

Cochineal  paste 81 

Coffee  and  blue,  damask 117 

Coffee  brown,  damask 102 

Coffee  brown,  moreens 106 

Coffee  brown,  merinos 154 

Coffee  brown,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs  144 

Colored,  merinos 150 

Colored  Orleans  and  Cobourgs,  from 

white  warps 144 

Colored  Orleans,  for  black  warps....  141 

Colors,  standard,  to  make 160 

Copper,  acetate,  to  mak» 165 

Copper  liquor  for  pnnting 179 


PAGE 

Copper,  nitrate  of. 185 

Copper,  to  detect  in  water 189 

Copperas  buff,  for  printing 179 

Copperas  vats,  how  to  set 181 

Cotton  dyeing 31 

Crane  blue,  for  wool 22 

Crimson  and  black,  shot  Cobourgs...  134 

Crimson  and  blue,  damask 115 

Crimson  and  blue,  shot  Cobourgs....  132 

Crimson,  broad  cloths 87 

Crimson,  camlets 120 

Crimson,  damask 95,  96,  101 

Crimson  and  dark  sky,  6hot  Cobourgs  133 

Crimson,  druggets 92 

Crimsons,  for  cotton 44 

Crimson,  for  printing 176 

Crimson,  for  silk 52,  58 

Crimson,  for  wool... 29 

Crimson,  for  woollen  yarn 72,  75 

Crimson,  for  worsted  yarn 78,  81 

Crimson  and  green,  damask 115 

Crimson,  lasting 126 

Crimson  and  lavender,  shot  Co- 
bourgs   132 

Crimson,  moreens 105, 106,  109 

Crimson,  merinos 151 

Crimson  and  olive,  shot  Cobourgs....  134 

Crimson,  saved  lists 86 

Cudbear 183 

Dahlia,  for  printing 174 

Dahlia,  for  worsted  yarn 79 

Damask  dyeing 94 

Dark  blue,  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Dark  brown,  for  wool 28 

Dark  brown,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Dark  brown,  pilot  cloth 89 

Dark  catechu  brown,  for  cotton 40 

Dark  chocolate,  for  woollen  yarn 75 

Dark  claret,  for  woollen  yarn 75,  76 

Dark  dove,  standard 163 

Dark  fawn  drab,  for  wool 21 

Dark  green,  for  wool 18 

Dark  and  light  orange,  damask 116 

Dark  olive,  for  wool 24 

Dark  olive,  for  woollen  yarn 74,  76 

Dark  olive,  for  worsted  yarn 79 

Dark  purple,  for  woollen  yarn 71 

Dark  red  brown,  for  worsted  yarn...  83 
Dark  sea  green,  for  worsted  yarn....  79 
Dark  sky  and  crimson,  shot  Co- 
bourgs  133 

Dark  vicuna,  for  worsted  yarn 78 

Darker  brown,  for  wool 25 

Darker  claret,  for  wool 28 

Darker  green  olive,  for  wool 24 

Dark  olive,  for  cotton 37 

Dauuce  black,  for  silk 59 

Dishful 190 

Dove  color,  for  woollen  yarn 74 

Dove  color,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Dove,  gold  lists 87 


196 


INDEX, 


PAGE 

Dove,  standard .. 163 

Drab,  camlets 120 

Drab,  damask 101 

Drab,  flushings 91 

Drab,  for  cotton 35,  36,  37,  41,  42 

Drab,  for  printing 174 

Drab,  for  silk 63,  64 

Drab,  for  wool 17,  19,  21,  22,  23 

Drab,  for  woollen  yarn 69,  70,  71,  74 

Drab,  for  worsted  yarn 78,  82 

Drab,  lastings..... 125,  126 

Drab,  merinos 155, 156 

Drab,  moreens 107 

Drab,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs 147, 148 

Drab  preparation 169 

Drab  standard 162, 163,  166, 167 

Drab,  to  pad 169 

Druggets,  crimson , 92 

Druggets,  claret 92 

Dyeing  camlet 119 

Dyeing,  cotton 31 

Dyeing,  damask 94 

Dyeing,  lasting 125 

Dyeing,  moreen 103 

Dyeing,  shot  Cobourgs 131 

Dyeing,  silk  stripe 136 

Dyeing,  wool 17 

Dyeing,  woollen 84 

Dyeing,  woollen  shawls 157 

Dyeing,  woollen  yarn 69 

Dyeing,  worsted  yarn 77 

Dyewares 181 


Earth,  to  detect  in  water 188 

Estariazer,  standard 162 

Estariazer,  to  pad 167 

Examination  of  water 187 

Explanation  of  terms 190 

Extract,  blues  from,  for  silk 53 

Extract  green,  for  cotton 38 

Extract  of  indigo,  for  printing 179 

Fancy  bloom,  for  wool 17,  22 

Fast  blue  black,  for  wool 20 

Fast  green,  for  cotton 39 

Fast  lavender,  for  cotton 43 

Fast  purple,  for  cotton 43 

Fawn,  damask 100 

Fawn  drab,  camlets 120 

Fawn  drab,  flushings 91 

Fawn  drab,  for  cotton 42 

Fawn  drab,  for  silk 63 

Fawn  drab,  for  wool 21 

Fawn  drab,  for  woollen  yarn 74 

Fawn  drab,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Fawn  drab,  lastings 126 

Fawn  drab,  standard 164 

Fawn,  for  printing 174 

Fawn,  moreens 107 

Fine  claret,  for  wool 28 

Fine  red  lavender,  for  w x>l 23 

Flat  drab,  for  silk., 63 


PAGE 

Flat  royal  blue,  for  cotton..... 47 

Flesh  color,  for  cotton 32 

Flesh  color,  for  silk 62 

Flesh  color  and  scarlet,  damasks 112 

Flushing,  black 89 

Flushings,  chrome 89 

Flushings,  fawn  drab 91 

Flushings,  logwood  blue 92 

Flushings,  mule  drab 91 

Flushings,  stone  drab 91 

French  berry 184 

French  blue,  for  silk 54 

French  white,  for  silk 65 

Full  black,  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Full  drab,  merinos 156 

Full  pink,  for  wool 28 

Full  purple  for  cloth 46 

Full  red  brown,  for  woollen  yarn....  76 

Full  yellow,  for  wool 29 

Fustic 184 

Galls 184 

Gold  color,  for  silk 62 

Gold  color,  orange  lists 86 

Gold  lists 89 

Gold  lists,  dove 87 

Gold  lists,  orange 85 

Gold  lists,  yellow  or  amber 87 

Grain  crimson,  for  silk 52 

Grain  crimson,  for  wool 29 

Grain  crimson,  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Grain  crimson,  for  worsted  yarn 81 

Grain  crimson,  lastings 126 

Grain  maroon,  woollen  yarn 75 

Grain  pinks,  for  silk 66 

Grain  rose  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Grain  rose,  longwools 86 

Grain  rose,  orange  lists 86 

Grain  scarlet,  damask 97 

Grain  scarlet,  for  silk 53 

Grain  scarlet,  for  wool 29 

Grain  scarlet,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Grain  scarlet,  moreens 104 

Gray,  standard 163 

Green,  broad  cloth 90 

Green,  camlets 1*24 

Green  chromed,  ladies’  cloth 90 

Green  and  claret,  shot  Cobourgs 133 

Green  and  crimson,  damask 115 

Green  damask 99,  100, 102 

Green,  dark  for  wool 18 

Green,  for  cotton 38,  39 

Green,  for  silk 60,  61 

Green,  for  printing 171, 175 

Green  for  white  warp,  silk  stripe....  139 

Green,  for  wool 26,  27 

Green,  for  woollen  yarn.69,70,  71, 72,  73, 


Green,  for  worsted  yarn 78,  79,  80 

Green,  lastings 127 

Green,  light  for  wool 18 

Green,  longwools 89,  90 


INDEX. 


197 


PAGE 


Green  maroon,  for  worsted  yarn 78 

Green,  merinos 152 

Green,  moreens 106,  108 

Green  olive,  for  wool 24 

Green  olive,  for  worsted  yarn........79,  80 

Green  olive,  merinos 154 

Green  olive,  Orleans 142 

Green  olive,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs..  146 
Green  and  orange, shot  Cobourgs....  135 

Green,  Orleans 143 

Green,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs.145, 146, 147 

Green  and  pink,  damasks 113 

Green  and  pink,  shot  Cobourgs...l32,  133 
Green  and  purple,  shot  Cobourgs...  133 

Green  and  salmon,  damasks 113 

Green  and  salmon,  shot  Cobourgs....  133 

Green,  serges 87 

Green  standard 168 

Green  and  yellow,  damasks 113 

Greener  olive,  for  wool 23 

Handkerchief  printing 171 

Hard  water 187 

Heavy  brown,  for  woollen  yarn 75 

Heavy  drabs,  for  silk 63 

Heavy  drab,  for  wool 17 

Honley’s  narrow  claret  brown 89 

How  to  spend  annotta 49 

How  to  spend  catechu 48 

How  to  spend  safflower 49 

How  to  spend  turmeric 40 

Imitating  indigo  blue,  for  worsted 

yarn 81 

Imitating  turkey  red,  for  cotton 41 

Indigo 184 

Indigo  blue,  for  worsted  yarn 81 

Indigo,  extract  for  printing 179 

Indigofera 184 

Indigo,  sulphate  of. 164,  181 

Indigo,  sulphate  of,  for  printing 179 

Invisible  green,  chromed  for  wool...  27 

Invisible  green,  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Invisible  green,  for  worsted  yarn 80 

Invisible  green,  merinos 152 

Invisible  green,  Orleans 143 

Invisible  green  Orleans  and  Cobourgs  146 

Iron 190 

Iron,  nitrate  of. 185 

Iron,  to  detect  in  water 188 

Kermes 185 

Khair  tree 183 

Knot  green,  for  worsted  yarn 79 

Lac  dye 185 

Lac  scarlet,  damask 97 

Lac  scarlet,  for  wool 28 

Lac  scarlet,  moreens 104 

Ladies’  cloths,  brown  olive 91 

Ladies’  cloths,  chromed  green 90 

Ladies’ cloths,  purple 89 


PAGE 

Lasting  dyeing 125 

Lavender 187 

Lavender  blue,  for  woollen  yarn 74 

Lavender  and  crimson,  shot  Cobourgs  132 
Lavender  drab,  Orleans  and  Co- 
bourgs   148 

Lavender,  for  cotton 36,  43 

Lavender,  for  printing 175 

Lavender,  for  silk 50 

Lavender  for  woollen  yarn 70 

Lavender,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Lavender  for  white  warp,  silk  stripe  139 

Lavender,  merinos 155 

Lavender  and  pink,  shot  Cobourgs...  132 

Lavender  red,  for  wool 23 

Lavender,  shawls 159 

Lavender,  standard 164,  168 

Lavender,  to  pad 169 

Lead,  to  detect  in  water 189 

Lichen  rocella 182 

Light  blue,  for  wool 19 

Light  brown,  for  wool 25 

Light  brown,  for  worsted  yarn 81 

Light  buff,  for  cotton 38 

Light  catechu  brown,  for  cotton 39 

Light  drab,  for  cotton 36 

Light  drab,  for  wool 22,  23 

Light  dove,  standard 163 

Light  extract  green,  for  cotton 38 

Light  fiery  brown,  for  woollen  yarn  69 

Light  green,  for  wool 18,  26 

Light  olive,  for  cotton 37 

Light  olive,  for  wool 23 

Light  olive,  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Light  pink,  for  cotton 33 

Light  puce,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Light  rose,  orange  lists 86 

Light  vicuna,  for  worsted  yarn 78 

Lilac 166 

Lilac,  for  cotton 36 

Lilac,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Lime,  to  detect  in  water 189 

Logwood 185 

Logwood  blue,  Bockins 92 

Logwood  blue  for  wool 19 

Logwood  blue,  flushings 92 

Logwood  blue,  woollen  cloths 93 

Logwood,  bronze,  for  printing 179 

Longwools,  chestnut  brown 90 

Longwools,  claret  brown 90 

Longwools,  grain  rose 86 

Longwools,  grain  scarlet 84 

Longwools,  green 89,  90 

Longwools,  lac  scarlet 85 

Longwools,  rose 86 

Longwools,  royal  blue 88 

Madder 185 

Madder  drab,  for  wool 21,  22 

Madder  drab,  merinos 155 

Madder  drab,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs  148 
Magnesia,  to  detect  in  water 188 


193 


INDEX. 


PACIE 

Maroon,  Bockins 93 

Maroon  for  cotton 45 

Maroon,  for  printing 176 

Maroon,  for  woollen  yarn 71,  75 

Maroon,  for  worsted  yarn .*..,.78,  79 

Maroon,  merinos 153 

Maroons,  for  silk 59 

Mazarine  blue,  for  silk 54 

Maze,  for  printing 175 

Melon,  shawls 158 

Merinos,  colored 1 150 

Middle  brown,  for  wool 25 

Middle  green,  for  cotton 38 

Middle  green,  for  woollen  yarn 70 

Middle  olive,  for  woollen  yarn 70 

Mulberry  for  black  warp,  6ilk  stripe  138 

Mulberry,  for  wool 27 

Mulberry,  merinos 155 

Mulberry,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs 145 

Mule  drab,  flushings 91 

Muriatic  acid,  to  detect  in  water 188 

Mock  crimson,  damask 101 

Mock  crimson,  for  silk 58 

Mock  crimson,  for  woollen  yarn 75 

Mock  crimson,  for  worsted  yarn 78 

Mock  maroon,  for  worsted  yarn 79 

Mock  scarlet,  for  silk 66 

Moreen,  camlets 121 

Moreen  dyeing 103 

Maroon,  lastings 127 

Maroon,  merinos 150 

Moss  green,  for  wool 26 

Nankin,  for  cotton 31 

Napoleon  blue 67 

Napoleon  blue  for  cotton 47 

Nitrates 185 

Nitric  acid 185 

Nut  brown,  wool 91 

Oak  drab,  for  worsted  yarn 78 

Olive  and  crimson,  shot  Cobourgs....  134 

Olive,  for  cotton 37 

Olive,  for  printing..-....'. 177 

Olive,  for  silk 56,  59,  61 

Olive,  for  wool 23,  24,  25 

Olive,  for  woollen  yarn 70,  73,  74,  76 

Olive,  for  worsted  yarn 79,  80 

Olive  from  black  warp,  silk  stripe...  136 

Olive,  merinos.. 154 

Olive,  Orleans... 142 

Olive,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs 146 

Olive,  standard 166 

Olive,  to  pad 166 

Orange  and  blue,  damask 115,  117 

Orange  and  blue,  shot  Cobourgs 131 

Orange  brown,  for  printing 178 

Orange,  camlets 119 

Orange,  damask 98 

Orange,  for  cotton 34 

Orange,  for  printing 172,  177 

Orange,  fur  silk 52 


PAGE 


Orange,  for  wool 30 

Orange  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Orange,  for  worsted  yarn 80 

Orange,  gold  lists  85 

Orange  and  green,  shot  Cobourgs....  135 

Orange  lists,  gold  color 86 

Orange  lists,  grain  rose 89 

Orange,  lastings 126, 127 

Orange  lists,  light  rose 86 

Orange  lists,  royal  blue 88 

Orange  lists,  salmon 85 

Orange  lists,  scarlet 84 

Orange  lists,  sky  blue 87 

Orange,  merinos 151 

Orange,  moreens 103 

Orange  and  purple,  shot  Cobourgs...  134 

Orange,  shawls 159 

Orange,  standard 166 

Orleans  colored,  for  black  warps 141 

Orleans,  light  brown 141 

Orleans,  silk  stripe  dyeing 136 

Oxalic  tin 186 

Padding,  art  of. 160 

Pailful 190 

Paris  black,  for  silk 66 

Paste,  cochineal * 81 

Peach,  for  printing 172, 173 

Peachwood 186 

Peachwood,  bronze,  to  make 178 

Peachwood,  pinks  from,  for  silk 66 

Peachwood  red,  Bockins 90 

Peachwood  red,  for  cotton 44 

Pea  gregn,  for  woollen  yarn 69 

Pea  green,  merinos 152 

Persian  berry 184 

Pilot  cloths,  brown 89 

Pink  and  blue,  shot  Cobourgs 131 

Pink,  cotton,  and  worsted  damasks.  94 

Pinks,  for  cotton 44 

Pink,  for  printing 172 

Pink,  for  wool 28 

Pink,  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Pink,  for  worsted  yarn 81 

Pink,  from  Peachwood,  for  silk 66 

Pink  for  white  warp,  silk  stripe 140 

Pink  and  green,  damasks 113 

Pink  and  green,  shot  Cobourgs. ..132,  133 
Pink  and  lavender,  shot  Cobourgs...  152 

Pink,  light  for  cotton ., 33 

Pink,  merinos 151 

Pink,  moreens 110 

Pink,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs  148 

Pink  and  royal  blue,  shot  Cobourgs  135 

Pink,  safflower  for  dotton 32 

Pink  and  scarlet,  damask Ill 

Pink  and  sky  blue,  damasks 114 

Pinks,  from  safflower,  for  silk 65 

Pinks,  grain  for  silk 16 

Plum  color,  for  cotton 45 

Pontia,  for  printing ’. 176 

Poppy  red,  for  printing 173 


INDEX. 


199 


PAGE 

Potass,  bichromate  of. 183 

Potass,  prussiate  of 186 

Printing,  silk  warp,  skein  and  hand- 
kerchief  171 

Prussiate,  blues  from,  for  silk 53 

Prussiate  liquor  for  printing 179 

Prussiate  of  potass 186 

Prussiate  of  tin 165 

Pterocarpus  santalinus 187 

Puce,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Purple  blue,  for  cotton 46 

Purple,  camlets 122,123 

Purple,  dark  standard 162 

Purple,  for  cotton 43 

Purple,  for  printing 173, 177 

Purple,  for  silk 59 

Purple,  for  woollen  yarn 71 

Purple,  for  worsted  yarn 77 

Purple  and  green,  shot  Cobourgs 133 

Purple,  ladies’  cloths 89 

Purple,  lastings 129, 130 

Purple,  merinos 153 

Purple  and  orange,  shot  Cobourgs...  134 
Purple  warp,  chromed  brown,  silk 

stripe 137 

Purple  warp,  claret  from  silk 

stripe - 137,  138 

Purple  warp,  red  brown  from  silk 
stripe 136,  139 

Quaker  drab,  standard 163 

Quercitron  bark 186 

Quercus  mgr  a 186 

Re-agents  for  water 187 

Real  Paris  blacks,  for  silk 66 

Receipts  for  padding 162 

Red,  Bockins..... 90 

Red  brown  from  purple  warp,  silk 

stripe 136,  139 

Red  brown,  for  silk 57 

Red  brown,  for  woollen  yarn 76 

Red  brown,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Red  brown,  merinos 154 

Red  brown,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs.144, 147 

Red  brown  standard 162 

Red,  cinnamon  brown,  for  worsted 

yarn 82 

Red  claret,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs...  147 

Red  crimson,  moreens 109 

Red  drab,  for  woollen  yarn 70 

Red,  for  cotton 40,  41,  44 

Red,  for  printing 172,  173 

Red,  for  silk 56 

Red  lavender,  for  wool 23 

Red  lavender,  for  woollen  yarn 70 

Red  lavender,  merinos 155 

Red  purple,  for  worsted  yarn 77 

Red  ruby,  for  printing 175 

Red,  sandal 187 

Redder  silver  drab,  for  wool 22 

Redder  olive,  for  wool 24 


PAGE 

Redder  vicuna,  for  wool 23 

Rhamntts  infectorious 184 

Rose  color,  moreens 109,  110 

Rose,  damask 95 

Rose,  for  printing 176 

Rose,  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Rose,  for  worsted  yarn 81 

Rose,  grain,  longwools 86 

Rose,  grain,  orange  lists 86 

Rose,  longwools 86 

Rose,  merinos 151 

Rose,  orange  lists 86 

Rose  and  Saxon  blue,  damasks 114 

Rose  and  scarlet,  damasks 112 

Rose,  shawls 158 

Royal  blue 170 

Royal  blue,  camlets 123 

’ Royal  blue,  cloth 88 

Royal  blue,  for  cotton 47 

Royal  blue,  for  silk 54 

Boyal  blue,  for  wool 29 

Royal  blue,  for  woollen  yarn 73 

Royal  blue,  for  worsted  yarn 77 

Royal  blue,  for  white  warp,  silk 

stripe 139 

Royal  blue,  lastings 129 

Royal  blue,  longwools 88 

Royal  blue,  merinos 150 

Royal  blue,  orange  lists 88 

Royal  blue,  serges 88 

Royal  blue,  shawls 157 

Royal  blue  standard 164 

Rubia  tincloria 185 

Ruby  and  blue,  damask 116 

Ruby  and  blue,  shot  Cobourgs 132 

Ruby,  for  cotton 45 

Ruby,  for  silk 59 

Ruby,  for  woollen  yarn ’. 70 

Ruby,  for  worsted  yarn 80 

Ruby  from  violet  warp,  silk  stripe..  138 

Ruby,  merinos 153 

Russian  brown,  for  wool 28 

Safflower 186 

Safflower,  how  to  spend 49 

Safflower  pink,  for  cotton 32 

Safflower,  pinks  from,  for  silk 65 

Sage  drab,  for  wool 19 

Sage  drab,  for  woollen  yarn 74 

Sage  drab,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Sal-enixen 183 

Salmon,  Bockins 85 

Salmon,  damask 94 

Salmon,  for  silk 62 

Salmon,  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Salmon,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Salmon  and  green,  damasks 113 

Salmon  and  green,  shot  Cobourgs....  133 

Salmon,  merinos 151 

Salmon,  moreens 110 

Salmon,  orange  lists 85 

Salmon  and  scarlet,  damasks 112 


200 


INDEX. 


PACE 

Salmon,  shawls 158 

Sapan  wood 187 

Saved  lists,  full  red  crimson 86 

Saved  lists,  scarlet 84,  85 

Saxon  blue,  camlets 121 

Saxon  blue,  damasks 98 

Saxon  blue,  for  cotton 46 

Saxon  blue,  for  woollen  yarn 74 

Saxon  blue,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Saxon  blue,  lastings 126 

Saxon  blue,  moreens 109 

Saxony  blue,  for  wool 30 

Sea  green,  damask 102 

Sea  green,  for  woollen  yarn 71 

Sea  green,  for  worsted  yarn 79 

Sea  green,  moreens 106 

Sea  green,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs....  148 

Serges,  scarlet 85 

Serges,  green 87 

Serges,  royal  blue 88 

Scarlet,  Bockins 84 

Scarlet  and  blue,  damask 117 

Scarlet,  camlets 119 

Scarlet,  damask 97 

Scarlet  and  flesh  color,  damasks 112 

Scarlet,  for  cotton 83 

Scarlet,  for  printing 171 

Scarlet,  for  silk 53 

Scarlet,  for  wool 28,  29 

Scarlet,  for  woollen  yarn 71 

Scarlet,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Scarlet  grain,  longwools 84 

Scarlet,  lastings 126 

Scarlet,  merinos 151,  152 

Scarlet,  mock  for  silk 66 

Scarlet,  moreens .. 104 

Scarlet,  orange  lists 84 

Scarlet  and  pink,  damasks Ill 

Scarlet  and  rose,  damasks 112 

Scarlet  and  salmon,  damasks 112 

Scarlet,  saved  lists .84,  85 

Scarlet,  serges 85 

Scarlet,  shawls 159 

Scarlet  and  yellow,  damasks Ill 

Scarlet,  yellow  for  cotton 40 

Shawls,  dyeing  woollen 157 

Shot  Cobourg  dyeing 131 

Silk  dyeing 50 

Silk  stripe  dyeing 136 

Silk  warp  printing 171 

Silver  drab,  camlets 120 

Silver  drab,  damask 101 

Silver  drab,  for  cotton 36,  41 

Silver  drab,  for  wool 22 

Silver  drab,  for  woollen  yarn 69 

Silver  drab,  lastings 125 

Silver  drab,  merinos 156 

Silver  drab,  moreens 107 

Silver  drab,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs...  147 

Skein  printing 171 

Sky  blue 169 

Sky  blue,  damask 98 


PAOIE 


Sky  blue,  for  cotton 43 

Sky  blue,  for  wool 30 

Sky  blue,  for  wdollen  yarn 74 

Sky  blue,  for  worsted  yarn 83 

Sky  blue,  merinos 155 

Sky  blue,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs 149 

Sky  blue,  shawls ....  159 

Sky  blues  from  extract,  for  silk 53 

Sky  blues  from  prussiate,  for  silk....  63 

Slate  color,  for  wool 17 

Slate  drab,  for  silk ; 63 

Slate  blue,  for  wool 22 

Slate  drab,  for  worsted  yarn 82 

Slate  purple,  for  worsted  yarn 77 

Slate  standard 163,  166 

Slate  standard,  for  printing 175 

Slate,  to  pad 167 

Snuff  color,  for  worsted  yarn 81 

Soft  water 187 

Sour  browns,  for  silk 57,  65 

Spirit,  to 191 

Spirit,  yellow,  for  silk 51 

Spirits,  for  blue  Napoleon 67 

Spirits,  for  cotton  dyeing,  to  make...  48 

Standard  colors,  to  make 160 

Steeping 48 

Stone  drab 167 

Stone  drab,  flushings... 91 

Stone  drab,  Orleans  and  Cobourgs...  147 

Stone  drab  standard 166 

Straw  color,  damask 96 

Straw  color,  for  cotton 31,  32 

Straw  color,  moreens 105 

Sulphate  of  indigo 164,  184 

Sulphate  of  indigo,  for  printing 179 

Sulphur,  to  detect  in  water 189 

Sumac 187 

Sumac,  how  used 149 

Sumac,  to 190 

Super  Argol 183 

Terms,  explanation  of. 190 

Tests  for  water 187 

Tin,  nitrate  of. 185 

Tin,  Oxalic 186 

Tin,  prussiate  of. 165 

Tot 190 

True  brown,  for  wool 26 

True  olive,  for  wool 25 

Turkey  red,  for  cotton 41 

Turmeric 187 

Turmeric,  how  to  spend 49 

Turmeric,  yellow,  for  silk 51 

Two  colored  damask  dyeing Ill 

Yant  color,  for  wool 25 

Yats,  copperas,  how  to  set 181 

Yery  dark  claret  for  woollen  yarn...  76 

Victoria  blue,  for  cotton 47 

Vicuna  drab,  for  wool 23 

Vicuna,  for  woollen  yarn 69 

Vicuna,  for  worsted  yarn ...  78 


INDEX, 


201 


PAGE 


Violet,  for  silk 60 

Violet,  for  violet  warp,  silk  stripe...  139 

Violet,  for  wool 27 

Violet,  merinos 153 

Violet,  Orleans 142 

Violet  warp,  ruby  from,  silk  stripe..  138 
Violet  warp,  violet  from,  silk  stripe.  139 
Volones 184 

Water,  examination  of. 187 

White,  cotton  and  worsted  damasks.  94 

White,  damasks 95,  96,  97,  98,  99,  100 

White,  for  silk 65 

White  warp,  green  from,  silk  stripe.  139 
White  warp,  lavender  from,  silk 

stripe 139 

White  warp,  pink  from,  silk  stripe.  140 
White  warp,  royal  blue  from,  silk 

stripe 139 

Wine  color,  for  wool 29 

Wine  color,  for  woollen  yarn 70 

Wold  yellow,  for  silk 51 

Wood,  sapan 187 

Wool  dyeing 17 

Wool,  nut  brown 91 

Woollen  cloths,  logwood  blue 93 

Woollen  dyeing 84 

Woollen  shawl  dyeing 157 

Woollen  yarn  dyeing 69 


PAGE 


Worsted  dye Iy0 

Worsted  yarn  dyeing 77 

Yarn  dyeing,  woollen 69 

Yarn  dyeing,  worsted 77 

Yellow  and  blue,  damask 117 

Yellow  and  blue,  shot  Cobourgs 131 

Yellow  brown,  for  woollen  yarn...70,  76 

Yellow  buff,  shawls 159 

Yellow,  camlets 119,  120 

Yellow,  damask 97 

Yellow  drab,  for  cotton 37 

Yellow,  for  cotton 34,  44 

Yellow,  fawn  drab,  for  silk 63 

Yellow,  for  silk 51 

Yellow,  for  printing 178 

Yellow,  for  wool 29 

Yellow,  for  woollen  yarn 72 

Yellow,  for  worsted  yarn 80 

Yellow,  gold  lists 87 

Yellow  and  green,  damasks 113 

Yellow,  lastings 125 

Yellow,  little  Bockins 87 

Yellow,  merinos 151 

Yellow,  moreens 104 

Yellow  and  scarlet,  damasks Ill 

Yellow,  scarlet,  for  cotton 40 

Yellow,  shawls 158 

Yellow,  stone  drab 167 


. 


■ 


CATALOGUE 


PRACTICAL  AND  SCIENTIFIC  BOOKS, 

PUBLISHED  BY 

HENRY  CAREY  BAiRD, 

INDUSTRIAL  PUBLISHER, 

No-  406  WiALISTUT  STREET, 
PHILADELPHIA. 


Any  of  the  Books  comprised  in  this  Catalogue  will  be  sent  by  mail, 
free  of  postage,  at  the  publication  price. 

JE33*  My  New  and  Enlarged  Catalogue,  82  pages  8vo.,  with  full  descriptions 
of  Books,  will  be  sent,  free  of  postage,  to  any  one  who  will  favor  me 
with  his  address. 


A RMENGAUD,  AMOUROUX,  AND  JOHNSON.— THE  PRACTICAL 
^ DRAUGHTSMAN’S  BOOK  OF  INDUSTRIAL  DESIGN,  AND 
MACHINIST’S  AND  ENGINEER’S  DRAWING  COMPANION: 


Forming  a complete  course  of  Mechanical  Engineering  and 
Architectural  Drawing.  From  the  French  of  M.  Armengaud 
the  elder,  Prof,  of  Design  in  the  Conservatoire  of  Arts  and 
Industry,  Paris,  and  MM.  Armengaud  the  younger  and  Amou- 
roux,  Civil  Engineers.  Rewritten  and  arranged,  with  addi- 
tional matter  and  plates,  selections  from  and  examples  of  the 
most  useful  and  generally  employed  mechanism  of  the  day. 
By  William  Johnson,  Assoc.  Inst.  C.  E.,  Editor  of  “The 
Practical  Mechanic’s  Journal.”  Illustrated  by  50  folio  steel 
plates  and  50  wood-cuts.  A new  edition,  4to.  . $10  00 

RLOT. — A COMPLETE  GUIDE  FOR  COACH  PAINTERS. 

Translated  from  the  French  of  M.  Arlot,  Coach  Painter;  late 
Master  Painter  for  eleven  years  with  M.  Ehrler,  Coach  Manufac- 
turer, Paris.  With  important  American  additions  . . $1  25 


A RROWSMITH.— PAPER-HANGER’S  COMPANION : 

A Treatise  in  which  the  Practical  Operations  of  the  Trade  are 
Systematically  laid  down:  with  Copious  Directions  Prepara- 
tory to  PaperiDg;  Preventives  against  the  Effect  of  Damp  on 
Walls;  the  Various  Cements  and  Pastes  adapted  to  the  Seve- 
ral Purposes  of  the  Trade ; Observations  and  Directions  for 
the  Panelling  and  Ornamenting  of  Rooms,  &c.  By  James 
Arrowsmith.  12mo.,  cloth  . . . . . $1  25 


2 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  CATALOGUE. 


p A£RD. — THE  AMERICAN  COTTON  SPINNER,  AND  MANA- 
n GER’S  AND  CARDER’S  GUIDE : 

A Practical  Treatise  on  Cotton  Spinning;  giving  the  Dimen- 
sions and  Speed  of  Machinery,  Draught  and  Twist  Calcula- 
tions, etc. ; with  notices  of  recent  Improvements : together 
with  Rules  and  Examples  for  making  changes  in  the  sizes  and 
numbers  of  Roving  and  Yarn.  Compiled  from  the  papers  of 
the  late  Robert  H.  Baird.  12mo.  . . . $1  50 

g AKER.— LONG-SPAN  RAILWAY  BRIDGES : 

Comprising  Investigations  of  the  Comparative  Theoretical  and 
Practical  Advantages  of  the  various  Adopted  or  Proposed  Type 
Systems  of  Construction;  with  numerous  Formulae  and  Ta- 
bles. By  B.  Baker.  12mo $2  00 

TD AKEWELL. — A MANUAL  OE  ELECTRICITY— PRACTICAL  AND 
D THEORETICAL : 

By  F.  C.  Bakewell,  Inventor  of  the  Copying  Telegraph.  Se- 
cond  Edition.  Revised  and  enlarged.  Illustrated  by  nume- 
rous engravings.  12mo.  Cloth  . . . . $2  00 

"DEANS. — A TREATISE  ON  RAILROAD  CURVES  AND  THE  L0- 
*D  CATION  OF  RAILROADS  : 

By  E.  W.  Beans,  C.  E.  12mo.  (In  press.) 

pLENKARN.— PRACTICAL  SPECIFICATIONS  OF  WORKS  EXE- 
D CUTED  IN  ARCHITECTURE,  CIVIL  AND  MECHANICAL 
ENGINEERING,  AND  IN  ROAD  MAKING  AND  SEWER- 
ING: 

To  which  are  added  a series  of  practically  “useful  Agreements 
and  Reports.  By  John  Blenkarn.  Illustrated  by  fifteen 
large  folding  plates.  8vo. $9  00 

TjLINN.— A PRACTICAL  WORKSHOP  COMPANION  FOR  TIN, 
^ SHEET-IRON,  AND  COPPER-PLATE  WORKERS  : 

Containing  Rules  for  Describing  various  kinds  of  Patterns 
used  by  Tin,  Sheet-iron,  and  Copper-plate  Workers  ; Practical 
Geometry ; Mensuration  of  Surfaces  and  Solids ; Tables  of  the 
Weight  of  Metals,  Lead  Pipe,  etc.;  Tables  of  Areas  and  Cir- 
cumferences of  Circles;  Japans,  Varnishes,  Lackers,  Cements, 
Compositions,  etc.  etc.  By  Leroy  J.  Blinn,  Master  Me- 
chanic. With  over  One  Hundred  Illustrations.  12mo.  $2  50 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


3 


ID  DOTH.— MARBLE  WORKER’S  MANUAL  : 

Containing  Practical  Information  respecting  Marbles  in  gene- 
ral, their  Cutting,  Working,  and  Polishing ; Veneering  of 
Marble  ; Mosaics  ; Composition  and  Use  of  Artificial  Marble, 
Stuccos,  Cements,  Receipts,  Secrets,  etc.  etc.  Translated 
from  the  French  by  M.  L.  Booth.  With  an  Appendix  con- 
cerning American  Marbles.  12mo.,  cloth  . . $1  50 


B3’0™ 


AND  MORFIT.— THE  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  CHEMISTRY, 
PRACTICAL  AND  THEORETICAL  : 

Embracing  its  application  to  the  Arts,  Metallurgy,  Mineralogy, 
Geology,  Medicine,,  and  Pharmacy.  By  James  C.  Booth, 
Melter  and  Refiner  in  the  United  States  Mint,  Professor  of 
Applied  Chemistry  in  the  Franklin  Institute,  etc.,  assisted  by 
Campbell  Morfit,  author  of  “Chemical  Manipulations,”  etc. 
Seventh  edition.  Complete  in  one  volume,  royal  8vo.,  978 
pages,  with  numerous  wood-cuts  and  other  illustrations.  $5  00 

D 3 WDITCH.— ANALYSIS,  TECHNICAL  VALUATION,  PURIFI- 
D CATION,  AND  USE  OF  COAL  GAS  : 

By  Rev.  W.  R.  Bowditch.  Illustrated  with  wood  engrav- 
ings. 8vo.  . . . . . . . . §6  50 

T)0X.— PRACTICAL  HYDRAULICS : 

A Series  of  Rules  and  Tables  for  the  use  of  Engineers,  etc. 
By  Thomas  Box.  12mo. $2  00 

u CXMASTER. — TEE  ELEMENTS  OF  MECHANICAL  PHYSICS  : 

By  J.  C.  Buckmaster,  late  Student  in  the  Government  School 
of  Mines ; Certified  Teacher  of  Science  by  the  Department  of 
Science  and  Art ; Examiner  in  Chemistry  and  Physics  in  the 
Royal  College  of  Preceptors ; and  late  Lecturer  in  Chemistry 
and  Physics  of  the  Royal  Polytechnic  Institute.  Illustrated 
with  numerous  engravings.  In  one  vol.  12mo.  . $1  50 

gULLOCK.— THE  AMERICAN  COTTAGE  BUILDER  : 

A Series  of  Designs,  Plans,  and  Specifications,  from  $200  to 
to  §20,000  for  Homes  for  the  People ; together  with  Warm- 
ing, Ventilation,  Drainage,  Painting,  and  Landscape  Garden- 
ing. By  John  Bullock,  Architect,  Civil  Engineer,  Mechani- 
cian, and  Editor  of  “ The  B-udiments  of  Architecture  and 
Building,”  etc.  Illustrated  by  75  engravings.  In  one  vol. 
8vo. §8  59 


B 


4 


IIENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


BULLOCK.  — THE  RUDIMENTS  OF 
D BUILDING; 


ARCHITECTURE  AND 


For  the  use  of  Architects,  Builders,  Draughtsmen,  Machin- 
ists, Engineers,  and  Mechanics.  Edited  by  John  Bullock, 
author  of  “The  American  Cottage  Builder.”  Illustrated  by 
250  engravings.  In  one  volume  8vo.  . . . $8  50 

pURGH  — PRACTICAL  ILLUSTRATIONS  OF  LAND  AND  MA- 
JJ  RINE  ENGINES ; 

Showing  in  detail  the  Modern  Improvements  of  High  and  Low 
Pressure,  Surface  Condensation,  and  Super-heating,  together 
with  Land  and  Marine  Boilers.  By  N.  P.  Burgh,  Engineer. 
Illustrated  by  twenty  plates,  double  elephant  folio,  with  text. 


$21  00 

pURGH.— PRACTICAL  RULES  FOR  THE  PROPORTIONS  OF 
D MODERN  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS  FOR  LAND  AND  MA- 
RINE PURPOSES. 

By  N.  P.  Burgh,  Engineer.  12mo.’  ? . . $2  00 

BURGH.— THE  SLIDE-VALVE  PRACTICALLY  CONSIDERED  : 

By  N.  P.  Burgh,  author  of  “ A Treatise  on  Sugar  Machinery,” 
“ Practical  Illustrations  of  Land  and  Marine  Engines,”  “ A 
Pocket-Book  of  Practical  Rules  for  Designing  Land  and  Ma- 
rine Engines,  Boilers,”  etc.  etc.  etc.  Completely  illustrated. 
12mo.  . . . ' . ^ ' . * ' . . . $2  00 


lYRN.— THE  COMPLETE  PRACTICAL  BREWER  : 

Or,  Plain,  Accurate,  and  Thorough  Instructions  in  the  Art  of 
Brewing  Beer,  Ale,  Porter,  including  the  Process  of  making 
Bavarian  Beer,  all  the  Small  Beers,  such  as  Root-beer,  Ginger- 
pop,  Sarsaparilla-beer,  Mead,  Spruce  beer,  etc.  etc.  Adapted 
to  the  use  of  Public  Brewers  and  Private  Families.^  By  M.  La. 
Fayette  Byrn,  M.  D.  With  illustrations.  12mo.  $1  25 


RN. — THE  COMPLETE  PRACTICAL  DISTILLER  ; 

Comprising  the  most  perfect  and  exact  Theoretical  and  Prac- 
tical Description  of  the  Art  of  Distillation  and  Rectification ; 
including  all  of  the  most  recent  improvements  in  distilling 
apparatus ; instructions  for  preparing  spirits  from  the  nume- 
rous vegetables,  fruits,  etc.  ; directions  for  the  distillation  and 
preparation  of  all  kinds  of  brandies  and  other  spirits,  spiritu- 
ous and  other  compounds,  etc.  etc. ; all  of  which  is  so  simpli- 
fied that  it  is  adapted  not  only  to  the  use  of  extensive  distil- 
lers, but  for  every  fanner,  or  others  who  may  wish  to  engage 
in  the  art  of  distilling  By  M.  La  Fayette  Byrn,  M.  D. 
With  numerous  engravings.  In  one  volume,  12mo.  $1  50 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


5 


DYRNE.— FOCXET  BOOK  FOR  RAILROAD  AND  CIVIL  ENCI- 
n NEERS ; 

Containing  New,  Exact,  and  Concise  Methods  for  Laying  out 
Railroad  Curves,  Switches,  Frog  Angles  and  Crossings;  the 
Staking  out  of  work;  Levelling;  the  Calculation  of  Cut- 
tings ; Embankments ; Earth-work,  etc.  By  Oliver  Byrne. 
Illustrated,  18mo,,  full  bound  . . . . . $1  75 

DYRNE.— THE  HANDBOOK  FOR  THE  ARTISAN,  MECHANIC, 
U AND  ENGINEER : 

By  Oliver  Byrne.  Illustrated  by  185  Wood  Engravings.  8vo. 


For  Engineering  Students,  based  on  the  Principle  of  Work. 
By  Oliver  Byrne.  Illustrated  by  Numerous  Wood  Engrav- 


J5YRNE.— THE  PRACTICAL  METAL-WORKER’S  ASSISTANT; 
Comprising  Metallurgic  Chemistry;  the  Arts  of  Working  all 
Metals  and  Alloys  ; Forging  of  Iron  and  Steel ; Hardening  and 
Tempering ; Melting  and  Mixing ; Casting  and  Founding ; 
Works  in  Sheet  Metal ; the  Processes  Dependent  on  the 
Ductility  of  the  Metals ; Soldering ; and  the  most  Improved 
Processes  and  Tools  employed  by  Metal-Workers.  With  the 
Application  of  the  Art  of  Electro-Metallurgy  to  Manufactu- 
ring Processes ; collected  from  Original  Sources,  and  from  the 
Works  of  Holtzapffel,  Bergeron,  Leupold,  Plumier,  Napier,  and 
others.  By  Oliver  Byrne.  A New,  Revised,  and  improved 
Edition,  with  Additions  by  John  ScoflFern,  M.  B , William  Clay, 
Wm.  Fairbairn,  F.  R.  S.,  and  James  Napier.  With  Five  Hun- 
dred and  Ninety-two  Engravings ; Illustrating  every  Branch 
of  the  Subject.  In  one  volume,  8vo.  652  pages  . $7  00 

■DYRNE.— THE  PRACTICAL  MODEL  CALCULATOR: 

For  the  Engineer,  Mechanic,  Manufacturer  of  Engine  Work, 
Naval  Architect,  Miner,  and  Millwright.  By  Oliver  Byrne. 
1 volume,  8vo.,  nearly  600  pages  . . . . $4  50 

•gEMROSE.— MANUAL  OF  WOOD  CARVING  : With  Practical  Il- 
lustrations for  Learners  of  the  Art,  and  Original  and  Selected  de- 
signs. By  William  Bemrose,  Jr.  With  an  Introduction  by 
Llewellyn  Jewitt,  F.  S.  A.,  etc.  With  128  Illustrations.  4to., 
cloth $3  00 


ings,  12mo, 


$3  63 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


pAIRD.— PROTECTION  OF  HOME  LABOR  AND  HOME  PRO- 
“J  SUCTIONS  NECESSARY  TO  THE  PROSPERITY  OF  THE 
AMERICAN  FARMER: 

By  Henry  Carey  Baird.  8vo.,  paper  . . . 10 


DAIRD.— THE  RIGHTS  OF  AMERICAN  PRODUCERS,  AND  THE 
n WRONGS  OF  BRITISH  FREE  TRADE  REVENUE  REFORM. 

By  Henry  Carey  Baird.  (1870)  ....  5 

"DAIRD.— SOME  OF  THE  FALLACIES  OF  BRITISH-FREE-TRADE 
U REVENUE-REFORM. 

Two  Letters  to  Prof.  A.  L.  Perry,  of  Williams  College,  Mass.  By 
Henry  Carey  Baird.  (1871.)  Paper  ....  5 

RD— STANDARD  WAGES  COMPUTING  TABLES  : 

An  Improvement  in  all  former  Methods  of  Computation,  so  ar- 
ranged that  wages  for  days,  hours,  or  fractions  of  hours,  at  a spe- 
cified rate  per  day  or  hour,  may  he  ascertained  at  a glance.  By 
T.  Spangler  Baird.  Oblong  folio $5  00 

pAUERMAN.— TREATISE  ON  THE  METALLURGY  OF  IRON. 

Illustrated.  12mo $2  50 

piCKNELL’.S  VILLAGE  BUILDER. 

55  large  plates.  4to 


B“ 


$10  00 


•BISHOP.— A HISTORY  OF  AMERICAN  MANUFACTURES : 

From  1608  to  1866  ; exhibiting  the  Origin  and  Growth  of  the  Prin- 
cipal Mechanic  Arts  and  Manufactures,  from  the  Earliest  Colonial 
Period  to  the  Present  Time  ; By  J.  Leander  Bishop,  M.  D.,  Ed- 
ward Young,  and  Edwin  T.  Freedley.  Three  vols.  8vo.,  half 

morocco  , $12  00 

pOX.— A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  HEAT  AS  APPLIED  TO 
-0  THE  USEFUL  ARTS : 

For  the  use  of  Engineers,  Architects,  etc.  By  Thomas  Box,  au- 
thor of  “Practical  Hydraulics.”  Illustrated  by  14  plates,  con- 
taining 114  figures.  12mo.  . . . . . . $4  25 


QABINET  MAKER’S  ALBUM  OF  FURNITURE  : 

Comprising  a Collection  of  Designs  for  the  Newest  and  Most 
Elegant  Styles  of  Furniture.  Illustrated  by  Forty-eight  Large 
and  Beautifully  Engraved  Plates.  In  one  volume,  oblong 

$5  00 

flHAPMAN.— A TREATISE  ON  ROPE-MAKING : 

As  practised  in  private  and  public  Rope-yards,  with  a Description 
of  the  Manufacture,  Rules,  Tables  of  Weights,  etc.,  adapted  to  the 
Trade  ; Shipping,  Mining,  Railways,  Builders,  etc.  By  Robert 
Chapman.  24mo » . . . $1  50 


U 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


7 


IRAIK.— THE  PRACTICAL  AMERICAN  MILLWRIGHT  AND 
’ MILLER. 

Comprising  the  Elementary  Principles  of  Mechanics,  Me- 
chanism, and  Motive  Power,  Hydraulics  and  Hydraulic 
Motors,  Mill-dams,  Saw  Mills,  Grist  Mills,  the  Oat  Meal  Mill, 
the  Barley  Mill,  Wool  Carding,  and  Cloth  Fulling  and  Dress- 
ing, Wind  Mills,  Steam  Power,  &c.  By  David  Craik,  Mill- 
wright. Illustrated  by  numerous  wood  engravings,  and  five 
folding  plates.  1 vol.  8vo.  . . . . $5  00 


n AMPIN. — A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  MECHANICAL  EN- 
U GINEERING: 


Comprising  Metallurgy,  Moulding,  Casting,  Forging,  Tools, 
Workshop  Machinery,  Mechanical  Manipulation,  Manufacture 
of  Steam-engines,  etc.  etc.  With  an  Appendix  on  the  Ana- 
lysis of  Iron  and  Iron  Ores.  By  Francis  Campin,  C.  E.  To 
which  are  added,  Observations  on  the  Construction  of  Steam 
Boilers,  and  Remarks  upon  Furnaces  used  for  Smoke  Preven- 
tion ; with  a Chapter  on  Explosions.  By  R.  Armstrong,  C.  E., 
and  John  Bourne.  Rules  for  Calculating  the  Change  Wheels 
for  Screws  on  a Turning  Lathe,  and  for  a Wheel-cutting 
Machine.  By  J.  La  Nicca.  Management  of  Steel,  including 
Forging,  Hardening,  Tempering,  Annealing,  Shrinking,  and 
Expansion. . And  the  Case-hardening  of  Iron.  By  G.  Ede. 
8vo.  Illustrated  with  29  plates  and  100  wood  engravings. 

$6  00 

H AMPIN.— THE  PRACTICE  OF  HAND-TURNING  IN  WOOD, 
U IVORY,  SHELL,  ETC.: 


With  Instructions  for  Turning  such  works  in  Metal  as  may  be 
required  in  the  Practice  of  Turning  Wood,  Ivory,  etc.  Also, 
an  Appendix  on  Ornamental  Turning.  By  Francis  Campin  , 
with  Numerous  Illustrations,  12mo.,  cloth  . . $3  00 


APRON  DE  DOLE.—  DUSSAUCE.— BLUES  AND  CARMINES  OF 
INDIGO. 

A Practical  Treatise  on  the  Fabrication  of  every  Commercial 
Product  derived  from  Indigo.  By  Felicien  Capron  de  Dole 
Translated,  with  important  additions,  by  Professor  II.  Dus- 
sauce.  12mo.  . . . . . . . $2  50 


8 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE 


0 ARE Y.— THE  WORKS  OF  HENRY  C.  CAREY: 
CONTRACTION  OR  EXPANSION?  REPUDIATION  OR  RE- 
SUMPTION? Letters  to  Hon.  Hugh  McCulloch.  8vo.  38 
FINANCIAL  CRISES,  their  Causes  and  Effects.  8vo.  paper 

25 

HARMONY  OF  INTERESTS;  Agricultural,  Manufacturing, 

and  Commercial.  8vo.,  paper $1  00 

Do.  do.  cloth  . . . $1  50 

LETTERS  TO  THE  PRESIDENT  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Paper $1  00 

MANUAL  OF  SOCIAL  SCIENCE.  Condensed  from  Carey’s 
“Principles  of  Social  Science.”  By  Kate  McKean.  1 vol. 

12mo $2  25 

MISCELLANEOUS  WORKS:  comprising  “Harmony  of  Inter- 
ests,” “Money,”  “Letters  to  the  President,”  “French  and 
American  Tariffs,”  “Financial  Crises,”  “The  Way  to  Outdo 
England  without  Fighting  Her,”  “Resources  of  the  Union,” 
“The  Public  Debt,”  “Contraction  or  Expansion,”  “ Review 
of  the  Decade  1857 — ’67,”  “Reconstruction,”  etc.  etc.  1 vol. 
8vo.,  cloth  . . . . . . . . $4  50 

MONEY:  A LECTURE  before  the  N.  Y.  Geographical  and  Sta- 
tistical Society.  8vo.,  paper  .....  25 

PAST,  PRESENT,  AND  FUTURE.  8vo.  . . . $2  50 

PRINCIPLES  OF  SOCIAL  SCIENCE.  3 volumes  8vo.,  cloth 

$10  00 

REVIEW  OF  THE  DECADE  1857— ’67.  8vo.,  paper  50 

RECONSTRUCTION:  INDUSTRIAL,  FINANCIAL,  AND  PO- 
LITICAL. Letters  to  the  Hon.  Henry  Wilson,  U.  S.  S.  8vo, 

paper . 50 

THE  PUBLIC  DEBT,  LOCAL  AND  NATIONAL.  How  to 
provide  for  its  discharge  while  lessening  the  burden  of  Taxa- 
tion. Letter  to  David  A.  Wells,  Esq.,  U.  S.  Revenue  Commis- 
sion. 8vo.,  paper  .......  25 

THE  RESOURCES  OF  THE  UNION.  A Lecture  read,  Dec. 
1865,  before  the  American  Geographical  and  Statistical  So- 
ciety, N.  Y.,  and  before  the  American  Association  for  the  Ad- 
vancement of  Social  Science,  Boston  ...  50 

THE  SLAVE  TRADE,  DOMESTIC  AND  FOREIGN;  Why  it 
Exists,  and  How  it  may  be  Extinguished.  12mo.,  cloth  $1  5(7 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  CATALOGUE. 


LETTERS  ON  INTERNATIONAL  COPYRIGHT.  (1867.) 

Paper 50 

REVIEW  OF  THE  FARMERS’ QUESTION.  (1870.)  Paper  25 
RESUMPTION!  HOW  IT  MAY  PROFITABLY  BE  BROUGHT 
AROUT.  (1869.)  8vo.,  paper  ....  60 

REVIEW  OF  THE  REPORT  OF  HON.  D.  A.  WELLS,  Special 
Commissioner  of  the  Revenue.  (1869.)  8vo.,  paper  50 

SHALL  WE  HAVE  PEACE?  Peace  Financial  and  Peace  Poli- 
tical. Letters  to  the  President  Elect.  (1868.)  8vo.,  paper  50 
THE  FINANCE  MINISTER  AND  THE  CURRENCY,  AND 
THE  PUBLIC  DEBT.  (1868.)  8vo.,  paper  . . 50 

THE  WAY  TO  OUTDO  ENGLAND  WITHOUT  FIGHTING 
HER.  Letters  to  Hon.  Schuyler  Colfax.  (1865.)  8vo.,  paper 

$1  00 

WEALTH!  OF  WHAT  DOES  IT  CONSIST  ? (1870.)  Paper  25 

QAMTJS.— A TREATISE  ON  THE  TEETH  OF  WHEELS : 

Demonstrating  the  best  forms  which  can  be  given  to  them  for  the 
purposes  of  Machinery,  such  as  Mill-work  and  Clock-work.  Trans- 
lated from  the  French  of  M-  Camus.  By  John  I.  Hawkins. 
Illustrated  by  40  plates.  8vo.  . . . . . $3  00 

noXE.— MINING  LEGISLATION. 

A paper  read  before  the  Am.  Social  Science  Association.  By 
Eckley  B.  Coxe.  Paper 20 

Q0LBURN.— THE  GAS-WORKS  OF  LONDON : 

Comprising  a^eketch  of  the  Gas-works  of  the  city,  Process  of 
Manufacture,  Quantity  Produced,  Cost,  Profit,  etc.  By  Zerah 

Colburn.  8vo.,  cloth 75 

rOLBURN.— THE  LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINE: 

Including  a Description  of  its  Structure,  Rules  for  Estimat- 
ing its  Capabilities,  and  Practical  Observations  on  its  Construc- 
tion and  Management.  By  Zerah  Colburn.  Illustrated.  A 
new  edition.  12mo.  . . . . . . $1  25 

nOLBURN  AND  MAW.— THE  WATER- WORKS  OF  LONDON : 
Together  with  a Series  of  Articles  on  various  other  Water- 
works. By  Zerah  Colburn  and  W.  Maw.  Reprinted  from 
“Engineering.”  In  one  volume,  8vo.  . . $4  00 

TV \GUERRE0TYPIST  AND  PHOTOGRAPHER’S  COMPANION: 


12mo.,  cloth 


$1  25 


10 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  CATALOGUE. 


■jQXRCKS. — PERPETUAL  MOTION  : 

Or  Search  for  Self-Motive  Power  during  the  17th,  18th,  and 
19th  centuries.  Illustrated  from  various  authentic  sources  in 
Papers,  Essays,  Letters,  Paragraphs,  and  numerous  Patent 
Specifications,  with  an  Introductory  Essay  by  Henry  Dircks, 
C.  E.  Illustrated  by  numerous  engravings  of  machines. 
12mo.,  cloth $3  50 

TYIXON. — THE  PRACTICAL  MILLWRIGHT’S  AND  ENGINEER’S 
U GUIDE : 

Or  Tables  for  Finding  the  Diameter  and  Power  of  Cogwheels  ; 
Diameter,  Weight,  and  Power  of  Shafts ; Diameter  and  Strength 
of  Bolts,  etc.  etc.  By  Thomas  Dixon.  12mo.,  cloth.  $1  50 
JJUN CAN. — PRACTICAL  SURVEYOR’S  GUIDE: 

Containing  the  necessary  information  to  make  any  person,  of 
common  capacity,  a finished  land  surveyor  without  the  aid  of 
a teacher.  By  Andrew  Duncan.  Illustrated.  12mo.,  cloth. 

$1  25 

TYUS  SAUCE. — A NEW  AND  COMPLETE  TREATISE  ON  THE 
U ARTS  OF  TANNING,  CURRYING,  AND  LEATHER  DRESS- 
ING: 

Comprising  all  the  Discoveries  and  Improvements  made  in 
France,  Great  Britain,  and  the  United  States.  Edited  from 
Notes  and  Documents  of  Messrs.  Sallerou,  Grouvelle,  Duval, 
Dessables,  Labarraque,  Payen,  Ren6,  De  Fontenelle,  Mala- 
peyre,  etc.  etc.  By  Prof.  H.  Dussauce,  Chemist.  Illustrated 
by  212  wood  engravings.  8vo.  ....  $10  00 

TjUSSAUCE. — A GENERAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  MANUFACTURE 
^ OF  SOAP,  THEORETICAL  AND  PRACTICAL : 

Comprising  the  Chemistry  of  the  Art,  a Description  of  all  the  Raw 
Materials  and  their  Uses.  Directions  for  the  Establishment  of  a 
Soap  Factory,  with  the  necessary  Apparatus,  Instructions  in  the 
Manufacture  of  every  variety  of  Soap,  the  Assay  and  Determination 
of  the  Value  of  Alkalies,  Fatty  Substances,  Soaps,  etc.  etc.  By 
Professor  H.  Dussauce.  With  an  Appendix,  containing  Ex- 
tracts from  the  Reports  of  the  International  Jury  on  Soap^i,  as 
exhibited  in  the  Paris  Universal  Exposition,  1867,  numerous 
Tables,  etc.  etc.  Illustrated  by  engravings.  In  one  volume  8vo. 

of  over  800  pages $1°  00 

TJUSSAUCE.— PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  FABRICATION 
**  OF  MATCHES,  GUN  COTTON,  AND  FULMINATING  POW- 
DERS. 

By  Professor  H.  Dussauce.  12mo.  . . . $3  00 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


11 


jyjSSAUCE.— A PRACTICAL  GUIDE  FOR  THE  PERFUMER: 
Being  a New  Treatise  on  Perfumery  the  most  favorable  to  the 
Beauty  without  being  injurious  to  the  Health,  comprising  a 
Description  of  the  substances  used  in  Perfumery,  the  Form- 
ulae of  more  than  one  thousand  Preparations,  such  as  Cosme- 
tics, Perfumed  Oils,  Tooth  Powders,  Waters,  Extracts,  Tinc- 
tures, Infusions,  Yinaigres,  Essential  Oils,  Pastels,  Creams, 
Soaps,  and  many  new  Hygienic  Products  not  hitherto  described. 
Edited  from  Notes  and  Documents  of  Messrs.  Debay,  Lunel, 
etc.  With  additions  by  Professor  H.  Dussauce,  Chemist.  12mo. 

$3  00 

TVJSSAUCE.— A GENERAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  MANUFACTURE 
^ OF  VINEGAR,  THEORETICAL  AND  PRACTICAL. 

Comprising  the  various  methods,  by  the  slow  and  the  quick  pro* 
cesses,  with  Alcohol,  Wine,  Grain,  Cider,  and  Molasses,  as  well 
as  the  Fabrication  of  Wood  Vinegar,  etc.  By  Prof.  H.  Dussauce. 
I2mo.  (In  press.) 


TjUPLAIS. — A COMPLETE  TREATISE  ON  THE  DISTILLATION 
19  AND  MANUFACTURE  OF  ALCOHOLIC  LIQUORS : 

From  the  French  of  M.  Duplais.  Translated  and  Edited  by  M. 
McKennie,  M D.  Illustrated  by  numerous  large  plates  and  wood 
engravings  of  the  best  apparatus  calculated  for  producing  the 
finest  products.  In  one  vol.  royal  8vo.  (Ready  May  1,  1871.) 

D^=“  This  is  a treatise  of  the  highest  scientific  merit  and  of  the 
greatest  practical  value,  surpassing  in  these  respects,  as  well  as 
in  the  variety  of  its  contents,  any  similar  volume  in  the  English 
language. 


|E  GRAFF.— THE  GEOMETRICAL  STAIR-BUILDERS’  GUIDE  r 

Being  a Plain  Practical  System  of  Hand-Railing,  embracing  all 
its  necessary  Details,  and  Geometrically  Illustrated  by  22  Steel 
Engravings  ; together  with  the  use  of  the  most  approved  princi- 
ples of  Practical  Geometry.  By  Simon  De  Graff,  Architect. 

$5  00 

jYER  AND  COLOR-MAKER’S  COMPANION  : 

Containing  upwards  of  two  hundred  Receipts  for  making  Co- 
lors, on  the  most  approved  principles,  for  all  the  various  styles 
and  fabrics  now  in  existence ; with  the  Scouring  Process,  and 
plain  Directions  for  Preparing,  Washing-off,  and  Finishing  the 
Goods.  In  one  vol.  12mo.  . . . . . $1  25 


12 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


p ASTON.— A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  STREET  OR  HORSE- 
POWER  RAILWAYS : 


Their  Location,  Construction,  and  Management ; with  General 
Plans  and  Rules  for  their  Organization  and  Operation;  toge- 
ther with  Examinations  as  to  their  Comparative  Advantages 
over  the  Omnibus  System,  and  Inquiries  as  to  their  Value  for 
Investment ; including  Copies  of  Municipal  Ordinances  relat- 
ing thereto.  By  Alexander  Easton,  C.  E.  Illustrated  by  23 
plates,  8vo.,  cloth $2  00 

ORSYTH.— BOOK  OF  DESIGNS  FOR  HEAD-STONES,  MURAL, 
AND  OTHER  MONUMENTS  : 


Containing  78  Elaborate  and  Exquisite  Designs.  By  Forsyth. 


4to.,  cloth $5  00 

This  volume,  for  the  beauty  and  variety  of  its  designs,  has 
never  been  surpassed  by  any  publication  of  the  kind,  and  should 
be  in  the  hands  of  every  marble-worker  who  does  fine  monumental 
work. 


pAIRBAIRN.— THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  MECHANISM  AND  MA- 
X CHINERY  OF  TRANSMISSION  : 


Comprising  the  Principles  of  Mechanism,  Wheels,  and  Pulleys, 
Strength  and  Proportions  of  Shafts,  Couplings  of  Shafts,  and 
Engaging  and  Disengaging  Gear.  By  William  Fairbairn, 
Esq.,  C.  E.,  LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.,  F.  G.  S.,  Corresponding  Member 
of  the  National  Institute  of  France,  and  of  the  Royal  Academy 
of  Turin  ; Chevalier  of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  etc.  etc.  Beau- 
tifully illustrated  by  over  150  wood-cuts.  In  one  volume  12mo. 

$2  50 


pAIRBAIRN.— PRIME-MOVERS : 

Comprising  the  Accumulation  of  Water-power;  the  Construc- 
tion of  Water-wheels  and  Turbines;  the  Properties  of  Steam; 
the  Varieties  of  Steam-engines  and  Boilers  and  Wind-mills. 
By  William  Fairbairn,  C.  E , LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.,  F.  G.  S.  Au- 
thor of  “Principles  of  Mechanism  and  the  Machinery  of  Trans- 
mission.” With  Numerous  Illustrations.  In  one  volume.  (In 
press.) 

niLBART— A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  BANKING: 

R,T  Tiufa  Wttttam  frTTBAPT  Tn  wViir»V»  ia  nrlrtarJ*  THE  Na- 


By  James  William  Gilbart.  To  which  is  added: 
tional  Bank  Act  as  now  in  force.  8vo. 


$4  50 


HESNER.— A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  COAL,  PETROLEUM, 
^ AND  OTHER  DISTILLED  OILS. 


By  Abraham  Gesner,  M.  D.,  F.  G.  S.  Second  edition,  revised 
and  enlarged.  By  George  Weltden  Gesner,  Consulting 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  Illustrated.  8vo.  . . $3  50 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


13 


GOTHIC  ALBUM  FOR  CABINET  MAKERS: 

Comprising  a Collection  of  Designs  for  Gothic  Furniture.  ID 
lustrated  by  twenty-three  large  and  beautifully  engraved 
plates.  Oblong $3  00 

n RANT.—  BEET-SOOT  SUGAR  AND  CULTIVATION  OF  THE 
U BEET: 


By  E.  B.  Grant.  12mo. 


$1  25 


QREGORY— MATHEMATICS  FOR  PRACTICAL  MEN  : 

Adapted  to  the  Pursuits  of  Surveyors,  Architects,  Mechanics, 
and  Civil  Engineers.  By  Olintiius  Gregory.  8vo.,  plates, 
cloth $3  00 

mtlSWOLD.— RAILROAD  ENGINEER’S  POCKET  COMPANION. 

Comprising  Rules  for  Calculating  Deflection  Distances  and 
Angles,  Tangential  Distances  and  Angles,  and  all  Necessary 
Tables  for  Engineers ; also  the  art  of  Levelling  fr  om  Prelimi- 
nary Survey  to  the  Construction  of  Railroads,  intended  Ex- 
pressly for  the  Young  Engineer,  together  with  Numerous  Valu- 
able Rules  and  Examples.  By  W.  Griswold.  12mo.,  tucks. 

$1  75 

QUETTIER—  METALLIC  ALLOYS  : 

Being  a Practical  Guide  to  their  Cheniical  and  Physical  Pro- 
perties, their  Preparation,  Composition,  and  Uses.  Translated 
from  the  French  of  A.  Guettier,  Engineer  and  Director  of 
Founderies,  author  of  “ La  Fouderie  en  France,”  etc.  etc.  By 
A.  A.  Fesquet,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  In  one  volume,  12mo. 
(In  press.) 

JJATS  AND  FELTING: 

A Practical  Treatise  on  their  Manufacture.  By  a Practical 

Hatter.  Illustrated  by  Drawings  of  Machinery,  &c.,  8vo. 

$1  25 

TTAY.— THE  INTERIOR  DECORATOR  : 

The  Laws  of  Harmonious  Coloring  adapted  to  Interior  Decora- 
tions : with  a Practical  Treatise  on  House-Painting.  By  D. 
R.  Hay,  House-Painter  and  Decorator.  Illustrated  by  a Dia- 
gram of  the  Primary,  Secondary,  and  Tertiary  Colors.  12mo. 

* $2  25 

TTUGHES.— AMERICAN  MILLER  AND  MILLWRIGHT’S  AS- 
11  S 1ST  ANT : 

By  Wm.  Carter  Hughes.  A new  edition.  In  one  volume, 
12mo ....  $1  50 


14 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


IF 


NT  — THE  PRACTICE  OF  PHOTOGRAPHY. 

By  Robert  Hunt,  Vice-President  of  the  Photographic  Society, 
London.  With  numerous  illustrations.  12mo.,  cloth  . 75 


JJURST.— . A HAND-BOOK  FOR  ARCHITECTURAL  SURVEYORS  : 

Comprising  Formulae  useful  in  Designing  Builders’  work,  Table 
of  Weights,  of  the  materials  used  in  Building,  Memoranda 
connected  with  Builders’  work,  Mensuration,  the  Practice  of 
Builders’  Measurement,  Contracts  of  Labor,  Valuation  of  Pro- 
perty, Summary  of  the  Practice  in  Dilapidation,  etc.  etc.  By 
J.  F.  Hurst,  C.  E.  2d  edition,  pocket-book  form,  full  bound 

$2  50 

JERVIS.— RAILWAY  PROPERTY: 

A Treatise  on  the  Construction  and  Management  of  Railways ; 
designed  to  afford  useful  knowledge,  in  the  popular  style,  to  the 
holders  of  this  class  of  property ; as  well  as  Railway  Mana- 
gers, Officers,  and  Agents.  By  John  B.  Jervis,  late  Chief 
Engineer  of  the  Hudson  River  Railroad,  Croton  Aqueduct,  &c. 
One  vol.  12mo.,  cloth  ....  . $2  00 


JOHNSON.— A REPORT  TO  THE  NAVY  DEPARTMENT  OF  THE 
U UNITED  STATES  ON  AMERICAN  COALS  • 


Applicable  to  Steam  Navigation  and  to  other  purposes.  By 
Walter  R.  Johnson.  With  numerous  illustrations.  607  pp. 
8vo.,  half  morocco  . . . . . $10  00 


'OHNSTON.— INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  ANALYSIS  OF  SOILS, 
LIMESTONES,  AND  MANURES' 

By  J.  W.  F.  Johnston.  12mo.  ....  35 


1ENE. — A HAND-BOOK  OF  PRACTICAL  GAUGING, 

For  the  Use  of  Beginners,  to  which  is  added  a Chapter  on  Dis- 
tillation, describing  the  process  in  operation  at  the  Custom 
House  for  ascertaining  the  strength  of  wines.  By  James  B. 
Keene,  of  H.  M.  Customs.  8vo.  . . $1  25 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


15 


gENTISH.— A TREATISE  ON  A BOX  OF  INSTRUMENTS, 

And  the  Slide  Rule  ; with  the  Theory  of  Trigonometry  and  Lo- 
garithms, including  Practical  Geometry,  Surveying,  Measur- 
ing of  Timber,  Cask  and  Malt  Gauging,  Heights,  and  Distances. 
By  Thomas  Kentish.  In  one  volume.  12mo.  . . $1  25 


OBELI.— ERNI.— MINERALOGY  SIMPLIFIED : 

A short  method  of  Determining  and  Classifying  Minerals,  by 
means  of  simple  Chemical  Experiments  in  the  Wet  Way. 
Translated  from  the  last  German  Edition  of  F.  Von  Kobell, 
with  an  Introduction  to  Blowpipe  Analysis  and  other  addi- 
tions. By  Henri  Erni,  M.  D.,  Chief  Chemist,  Department  of 
Agriculture,  author  of  “Coal  Oil  and  Petroleum.”  In  one 
volume.  12mo.  ...  . . $2  50 


JANDRIN. — A TREATISE  ON  STEEL : 

Comprising  its  Theory,  Metallurgy,  Properties,  Practical  Work- 
ing, and  Use.  By  M.  H.  C.  Landrin,  Jr.,  Civil  Engineer. 
Translated  from  the  French,  with  Notes,  by  A.  A.  Fesquet, 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  With  an  Appendix  on  the  Bessemer 
and  the  Martin  Processes  for  Manufacturing  Steel,  from  the 
Report  of  Abram  S.  Hewitt,  United  States  Commissioner  to 
the  Universal  Exposition,  Paris,  1867.  12mo.  . . $3  00 


TARKIN.— THE  PRACTICAL  BRASS  AND  IRON  FOUNDER’S 
GUIDE. 

A Concise  Treatise  on  Brass  Founding,  Moulding,  the  Metals 
and  their  Alloys,  etc.;  to  which  are  added  Recent  Improve- 
ments in  the  Manufacture  of  Iron,  Steel  by  the  Bessemer  Pro- 
cess, etc.  etc.  By  James  Larkin,  late  Conductor  of  the  Brass 
Foundry  Department  in  Reany,  Neafie  & Co.’s  Penn  Works, 
Philadelphia.  Fifth  edition,  revised,  with  extensive  Addi- 
tions. In  one  volume.  12mo $2  25 


J6 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


TEAVITT.— FACTS  ABOUT  PEAT  AS  AN  ARTICLE  OF  FUEL: 
With  Remarks  upon  its  Origin  and  Composition,  the  Localities 
m which  it  is  found,  the  Methods  of  Preparation  and  Manu 
facture,  and  the  various  Uses  to  which  it  is  applicable;  toge- 
ther with  many  other  matters  of  Practical  and  Scientific  Inte- 
rest. To  which  is  added  a chapter  on  the  Utilization  of  Coal 
Dust  with  Peat  for  the  Production  of  an  Excellent  Fuel  at 
* Moderate  Cost,  especially  adapted  for  Steam  Service.  By  H. 

T.  Leavitt.  Third  edition.  12mo.  . . . $1  75 

TEROUX  — A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  MANUFAC- 
TURE  OF  WORSTEDS  AND  CARDED  YARNS: 

Translated  from  the  French  of  Charles  Leroux,  Mechanical 
Engineer,  and  Superintendent  of  a Spinning  Mill.  By  Dr.  II. 
Paine,  and  A.  A.  Fesquet.  Illustrated  by  12  large  plates.  In 

one  volume  8vo.  . $5  00 

JESLIE  (MISS).— COMPLETE  COOKERY: 

Directions  for  Cookery  in  its  Various  Branches.  By  Miss 
Leslie.  60th  edition.  Thoroughly  revised,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  New  Receipts.  In  1 vol.  12mo.,  cloth  . . $1  50 

JESLIE  (MISS).  LADIES’  HOUSE  BOOK  : 

a Manual  of  Domestic  Economy.  20th  revised  edition.  12mo., 


cloth 

TESLIE  (MISS).— TWO  HUNDRED  RECEIPTS  IN 
COOKERY. 

12mo.  ........ 


. $1  25 

FRENCH 

50 


TIEBER.— ASS  AYER’S  GUIDE : 

Or,  Practical  Directions  to  Assayers,  Miners,  and  Smelters,  for 
the  Tests  and  Assays,  by  Heat  and  by  Wet  Processes,  for  the 
Ores  of  all  the  principal  Metals,  of  Gold  and  Silver  Coins  and 
Alloys,  and  of  Coal,  etc.  By  Oscar  M.  Lieber.  12mo.,  cloth 

$1  25 

T QVE.— THE  ART  OF  DYEING,  CLEANING,  SCOURING,  AND 
FINISHING : 

On  the  most  approved  English  and  French  methods;  being 
Practical  Instructions  in  Dyeing  Silks,  Woollens,  and  Cottons, 
Feathers,  Chips,  Straw,  etc.;  Scouring  and  Cleaning  Bed  and 
Window  Curtains,  Carpets,  Rugs,  etc.;  French  and  English 
Cleaning,  etc.  By  Thomas  Love.  Second  American  Edition,  to 
which  are  added  General  Instructions  for  the  Use  of  Aniline 
Colors.  8vo 5 00 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


17 


Ti/TAIN  AND  BROWN— QUESTIONS  ON  SUBJECTS  CONNECTED 


And  Examination  Papers  ; with  Hints  for  their  Solution.  By 
Thomas  J.  Main,  Professor  of  Mathematics,  Royal  Naval  College, 
and  Thomas  Brown,  Chief  Engineer,  R.  N.  12mo.,  cloth  $1  50 

1/TAIN  AND  BROWN— TIIE  INDICATOR  AND  DYNAMOMETER? 


I Vi 

With  their  Practical  Applications  to  the  Steam-Engine. 


By 


Thomas  J.  Main,  M.  A.  F.  R.,  Ass’t  Prof.  Royal  Naval  College, 
Portsmouth,  and  Thomas  Brown,  Assoc.  Inst.  C.  E.,  Chief  En- 
gineer, R.  N.,  attached  to  the  R.  N.  College.  Illustrated.  From 
the  Fourth  London  Edition.  8vo.  ...  . $1  50 

TUT  AIN  AND  BROWN.— THE  MARINE  STEAM-ENGINE. 

By  Thomas  J.  Main,  F.  R.  Ass’t  S.  Mathematical  Professor  at 
Royal  Naval  College,  and  Thomas  Brown,  Assoc.  Inst.  C.  E. 
Chief  Engineer,  R.  N.  Attached  to  the  Royal  Naval  College. 
Authors  of  “Questions  Connected  with  the  Marine  Steam-En- 
gine,” and  the  “ Indicator  and  Dynamometer.”  With  numerous 
Illustrations.  In  one  volume  8vo.  . . . . . $5  00 

TV/TARTIN.— SCREW-CUTTING  TABLES,  FOR  THE  USE  OF  ME- 
CHANICAL  ENGINEERS : 

Showing  the  Proper  Arrangement  of  Wheels  for  Cutting  the 
Threads  of  Screws  of  any  required  Pitch ; with  a Table  for 
Making  the  Universal  Gas-Pipe  Thread  and  Taps.  By  W.  A. 
Martin,  Engineer.  8vo.  .......  50 

TITHES— A PLAIN  TREATISE  ON  HORSE-SHOEING. 

With  Illustrations.  By  William  Miles,  author  of  “ The  Horse’s 

Foot” $1  00 

1\ /TOLLS WORTH. — POCKET-BOOK  OF  USEFUL  FORMULAS  AND 
•L¥J*  MEMORANDA  FOR  CIVIL  AND  MECHANICAL  ENGINEERS. 
By  Guilford  L.  Molesworth,  Member  of  the  Institution  of 
Civil  Engineers,  Chief  Resident  Engineer  of  the  Ceylon  Railway. 
Second  American  from  the  Tenth  London  Edition.  In  one 
volume,  full  bound  in  pocket-book  form  . . „ . $2  00 

jyj"OORE. — THE  INVENTOR’S  GUIDE: 

Patent  Office  and  Patent  Laws  : or,  a Guide  to  Inventors,  and  a 
Book  of  Reference  for  Judges,  Lawyers,  Magistrates,  and  others. 

By  J G.  Moore.  12mo.,  cloth $1  25 

JJAPIER.— A MANUAL  OF  ELECTRO-METALLURGY : 

Including  the  Application  of  the  Art  to  Manufacturing  Processes. 
By  James  Napier.  Fourth  American,  from  the  Fourth  London 
edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  Illustrated  by  engravings.  In 
one  volume,  8vo.  . . . . . . . . $2  00 


18 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


NTAPISR.—  A SYSTEM  OF  CHEMISTRY  APPLIED  TO  DYEING  : 

By  James  Napier,  F.  C.  S.  A New  and  Thoroughly  Revised 
Edition,  completely  brought  up  to  the  present  state  of  the 
Science,  including  the  Chemistry  of  Coal  Tar  Colors.  By  A.  A. 
Fesquet,  'Chemist  and  Engineer.  With  an  Appendix  on  Dyeing 
and  Calico  Printing,  as  shown  at  the  Paris  Universal  Exposition 
of  1867,  from  the  Reports  of  the  International  Jury,  etc.  Illus- 
trated. In  one  volume  8vo.,  400  pages  . . . . $5  00 

>TEW3ERY.  — GLEANINGS  FROM  ORNAMENTAL  ART  OF 
U EVERY  STYLE; 

Drawn  from  Examples  in  the  British,  South  Kensington,  Indian, 
Crystal  Palace,  and  other  Museums,  the  Exhibitions  of  1851  and 
1862,  and  the  best  English  and  Foreign  works.  In  a series  of  one 
hundred  exquisitely  drawn  Plates,  containing  many  hundred  ex- 
amples. By  Robert  Newbery.  4to $15  00 

J^TCHOLSON. — A MANUAL  OF  THE  ART  OF  BOOK-BINDING : 
Containing  full  instructions  in  the  different  Branches  of  Forward- 
ing, Gilding,  and  Finishing.  Also,  the  Art  of  Marbling  Book- 
edges  and  Paper.  By  James  B.  Nicholson.  Illustrated.  12mo. 

cloth  ....  $2  25 

TTORRIS.— A HAND-BOOK  FOR  LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINEERS  AND 
MACHINISTS: 

Comprising  the  Proportions  and  Calculations  for  Constructing 
Locomotives;  Manner  of  Setting  Valves;  Tables  of  Squares, 
Cubes,  Areas,  etc.  etc.  By  Septimus  Norris,  Civil  and  Me- 
chanical Engineer.  New  edition.  Illustrated,  12mo.,  cloth 

$2  00 

WTYSTROM.  — ON  TECHNOLOGICAL  EDUCATION  AND  THE 
CONSTRUCTION  OF  SHIPS  AND  SCREW  PROPELLERS: 

For  Naval  and  Marine  Engineers.  By  John  W.  Nystrom,  lata 
Acting  Chief  Engineer  U.  S.  N.  Second  edition,  revised  with 
additional  matter.  Illustrated  by  seven  engravings.  12mo. 

$2  50 

NEILL.— A DICTIONARY  OF  DYEING  AND  CALICO  PRINT- 
ING: 

Containing  a brief  account  of  all  the  Substances  and  Processes  in 
use  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  and  Printing  Textile  Fabrics  : with  Prac- 
tical Receipts  and  Scientific  Information.  By  Charles  O’Neill, 
Analytical  Chemist;  Fellow  of  the  Chemical  Society  of  London; 
Member  of  the  Literary  and  Philosophical  Society  of  Manchester  ; 
Author  of  “ Chemistry  of  Calico  Printing  and  Dyeing.”  To  which 
is  added  An  Essay  on  Coal  Tar  Colors  and  their  Application  to 


0 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD'S  CATALOGUE. 


19 


Dyeing  and  Calico  Printing.  By  A.  A.  Fesqttet,  Chemist  and 
Engineer.  With  an  Appendix  on  Dyeing  and  Calico  Printing,  as 
shown  at  the  Exposition  of  1867,  from  the  Reports  of  the  Interna, 
tional  Jury,  etc.  In  one  volume  8vo.,  491  pages  . . $6  00 

jSBORN. — THE  METALLURGY  OF  IRON  AND  STEEL : 

Theoretical  and  Practical : In  all  its  Branches  ; With  Special  Re- 
ference to  American  Materials  and  Processes.  By  II.  S.  Osborn, 
LL.  D.,  Professor  of  Mining  and  Metallurgy  in  Lafayette  College, 
Easton,  Pa.  Illustrated  by  230  Engravings  on  Wood,  and  6 

Folding  Plates.  8vo.,  972  pages $10  00 

jSBORN.— AMERICAN  MINES  AND  MINING  : 

Theoretically  and  Practically  Considered.  By  Prof.  II.  S.  Os- 
born, Illustrated  by  numerous  engravings.  8vo.  {In  preparation.) 


lAINTER,  GILDER,  AND  VARNISHER’S  COMPANION : 

Containing  Rules  and  Regulations  in  everything  relating  to  the 
Arts  of  Painting,  Gilding,  Varnishing,  and  Glass  Staining,  with 
numerous  useful  and  valuable  Receipts ; Tests  for  the  Detection 
of  Adulterations  in  Oils  and  Colors,  and  a statement  of  the  Dis- 
eases and  Accidents  to  which  Painters,  Gilders,  and  Varnishers 
are  particularly  liable,  with  the  simplest  methods  of  Preirention 
and  Remedy.  With  Directions  for  Graining,  Marbling,  Sign  Writ- 
ing, and  Gilding  on  Glass.  To  which  are  added  Complete  Instruc- 
tions for  Coach  Painting  and  Varnishing.  12mo.,  cloth,  $1  60 


pALLETT.— THE  MILLER’S,  MILLWRIGHT’S,  AND  ENGI- 
X NEER’S  GUIDE. 

By  Henry  Pallett.  Illustrated.  In  one  vol.  12mo.  . $3  00 

pERKINS.— GAS  AND  VENTILATION. 

Practical  Treatise  on  Gas  and  Ventilation.  With  Special  Relation 
to  Illuminating,  Heating,  and  Cooking  by  Gas.  Including  Scien- 
tific Helps  to  Engineer-students  and  others.  With  illustrated 
Diagrams.  By  E.  E.  Perkins.  12mo.,  cloth  . . . $1  25 

pERKINS  AND  STOWE.— A NEW  GUIDE  TO  THE  SHEET-IRON 
L AND  BOILER  PLATE  ROLLER: 


Containing  a Series  of  Tables  showing  the  Weight  of  Slabs  and 
Piles  to  Produce  Boiler  Plates,  and  of  the  Weight  of  Piles  and  the 
Sizes  of  Bars  to  Produce  Sheet-iron  ; the  Thickness  of  the  Bar 
Gauge  in  Decimals;  the  Weight  per  foot,  and  the  Thickness  on 
the  Bar  or  Wire  Gauge  of  the  fractional  parts  of  an  inch;  the 
Weight  per  sheet,  and  the  Thickness  on  the  Wire  Gauge  of  Sheet- 
iron  of  various  dimensions  to  weigh  112  lbs.  per  bundle ; and  the 
conversion  of  Short  Weight  into  Long  Weight,  and  Long  Weight 
into  Short.  Estimated  and  collected  by  G.  II,  Perkins  and  J.  G* 
Stowe $2  60 


20 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


"DHXLLIPS  AND  DARLINGTON.— RECORDS  OF  MINING  AND 
METALLURGY : 


Or,  Facts  and  Memoranda  for  the  use  of  the  Mine  Agent  and 
Smelter.  By  J.  Arthur  Phillips,  Mining  Engineer,  Graduate  of 
the  Imperial  School  of  Mines,  France,  etc.,  and  John  Darlington. 
Illustrated  by  numerous  engravings.  In  one  vol.  12mo.  . $2  00 

&RADAL,  MALEPEYRE,  AND  DUSSAUCE.  — A COMPLETE 
TREATISE  ON  PERFUMERY: 

Containing  notices  of  the  Raw  Material  used  in  the  Ait,  and  the 
Best  Formulae.  According  to  the  most  approved  Methods  followed 
in  France,  England,  and  the  United  States.  By  M.  P.  Pradal, 
Perfumer-Chemist,  and  M.  F.  Malepeyre.  Translated  from  the 
French,  with  extensive  additions,  by  Prof.  H.  Dussauce.  8vo.  $10 


*R9TEAUX. — PRACTICAL  GUIDE  FOR  THE  MANUFACTURE 
OF  PAPER  AND  BOARDS. 

By  A.  Proteaux,  Civil  Engineer,  and  Graduate  of  the  School  of 
Arts  and  Manufactures,  Director  of  Thiers’s  Paper  Mill,  ’Puy-de- 
Dome.  With  additions,  by  L.  S.  Le  Normand.  Translated  from 
the  French,  with  Notes,  by  Horatio  Paine,  A.  B.,  M.  D.  To 
which  is  added  a Chapter  on  the  Manufacture  of  Paper  from  Wood 
in  the  United  States,  by  Henry  T.  Brown,  of  the  “American 
Artisan.”  Illustrated  by  six  plates,  containing  Drawings  of  Raw 
Materials,  Machinery,  Plans  of  Paper-Mills,  etc.  etc.  8vo.  $5  00 


■DEGNAULT.— ELEMENTS  OF  CHEMISTRY. 

By  M.  Y.  Regnault.  Translated  from  the  French  by  T.  For- 
rest Benton,  M.  B.,  and  edited,  with  notes,  by  James  C.  Booth, 
Melter  and  Refiner  U.  S.  Mint,  and  Wm.  L.  Faber,  Metallurgist 
and  Mining  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  nearly  700  wood  engravings. 
Comprising  nearly  1500  pages.  In  two  vols.  8vo.,  cloth  $10  00 
■p EID . — A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF 
PORTLAND  CEMENT: 

By  Henry  Reid,  C.  E.  To  which  is  added  a Translation  of  M. 
A.  Lipowitz’s  Work,  describing  anew  method  adopted  in  Germany 
of  Manufacturing  that  Cement.  By  W.  F.  Reid.  Illustrated  by 
plates  and  wood  engravings.  8vo.  . . . . . $7  00 

p IFF  AULT,  VERGNAUD,  AND  TOUSSAINT.— A PRACTICAL 
TREATISE  ON  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  COLORS  FOR 
PAINTING : 


Containing  the  best  Formulae  and  the  Processes  the  Newest  and 
in  most  General  Use.  By  MM.  Riffault,  Yergnaud,  andTous- 
saint.  Revised  and  Edited  by  M.  F.  Malepeyre  and  Dr.  Emil 
Winckler.  Illustrated  by  Engravings.  In  one  vol.  Svo.  (I?i 
preparation .) 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE, 


21 


T5  IFF  AULT,  VERGNAUD,  AND  TOUSSAINT.— A PRACTICAL 
TREATISE  ON  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  VARNISHES : 

By  MM.  Riffault,  Vergnaud,  and  Toussaint.  Revised  and 
Edited  by  M.  F.  Malepeyre  and  Dr.  Emie  Winckler.  Illus- 
trated. In  one  vol.  8vo.  (In preparation.) 

OKUNH. — A PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  RAILWAY  CURVES 
° AND  LOCATION,  FOR  YOUNG  ENGINEERS. 


By  Wh.  F.  Shunk,  Civil  Engineer.  12mo.,  tucks 


$2  00 


gMEATON.— BUILDER’S  POCKET  COMPANION: 

Containing  the  Elements  of  Building,  Surveying,  and  Architec. 
ture  ; with  Practical  Rules  and  Instructions  connected  with  the  sub- 
ject. By  A.  C.  Smeaton,  Civil  Engineer,  etc.  In  one  volume, 
12mo.  . . . . . . . . . . $1  50 

HMITH— THE  DYER’S  INSTRUCTOR: 

Comprising  Practical  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  Silk,  Cot- 
ton, Wool,  and  Worsted,  and  Woollen  Goods:  containing  nearly 
800  Receipts.  To  which  is  added  a Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Pad- 
ding ; and  the  Printing  of  Silk  Warps,  Skeins,  and  Handkerchiefs, 
and  the  various  Mordants  and  Colors  for  the  different  styles  of 
such  work.  By  David  Smith,  Pattern  Dyer,  12mo.,  cloth 

$3  00 

DMITH— THE  PRACTICAL  DYER’S  GUIDE: 

W Comprising  Practical  Instructions  in  the  Dyeing  of  Shot  Cobourgs, 
Silk  Striped  Orleans,  Colored  Orleans  from  Black  Warps,  ditto 
from  White  Warps,  Colored  Cobourgs  from  White  Warps,  Merinos, 
Yarns,  Woollen  Cloths,  etc.  Containing  nearly  300  Receipts,  to 
most  of  which  a Dyed  Pattern  is  annexed.  Also,  a Treatise  on 
the  Art  of  Padding.  By  David  Smith.  In  one  vol.  8vo.  $25  00 


OH  AW. — CIVIL  ARCHITECTURE : 

^ Being  a Complete  Theoretical  and  Practical  System  of  Building, 
containing  the  Fundamental  Principles  of  the  Art.  By  Edward 
Shaw,  Architect.  To  which  is  added  a Treatise  on  Gothic  Archi- 
tecture, &c.  By  Thomas  W.  Silloway  and  George  M.  Hard- 
ing , Architects.  The  whole  illustrated  by  102  quarto  plates  finely 
engraved  on  copper.  Eleventh  Edition.  4to.  Cloth.  $10  00 


gLOAN 


.—AMERICAN  HOUSES: 

A variety  of  Original  Designs  for  Rural  Buildings.  Illustrated  by 
26  colored  Engravings,  with  Descriptive  References.  By  Samuel 
Sloan,  Architect,  author  of  the  “ Model  Architect,”  etc.  etc.  8vo. 

$2  50 

OCHINZ.— RESEARCHES  ON  THE  ACTION  OF  THE  BLAST. 

M FURNACE. 

By  Chas.  Schinz,  Seven  plates.  12mo.  . . 


$4  25 


22 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


OMITH.— PARKS  AND  PLEASURE  GROUNDS : 

Or,  Practical  Notes  on  Country  Residences,  Villas,  Public  Parks, 
and  Gardens.  By  Charles  II.  J 


By  Charles  II. 
and  Garden  Architect,  etc.  etc. 


Smith,  Landscape  Gardener 
12mo $2  25 


QTOKES.— CABINET-MAKER’S  AND  UPHOLSTERER’S  COMPA- 
10  NION : 

Comprising  the  Rudiments  and  Principles  of  Cabinet-making  and 
Upholstery,  with  Familiar  Instructions,  Illustrated  by  Examples 
for  attaining  a Proficiency  in  the  Art  of  Drawing,  as  applicable 
to  Cabinet-work  ; The  Processes  of  Veneering,  Inlaying,  and 
Buhl-work  ; the  Art  of  Dyeing  and  Staining  Wood,  Bone,  Tortoise 
Shell,  etc.  Directions  for  Lackering,  Japanning,  and  Varnishing; 
to  make  French  Polish ; to  prepare  the  Best  Glues,  Cements,  and 
Compositions,  and  a number  of  Receipts,  particularly  for  workmen 
generally.  By  J.  Stokes.  In  one  vol.  12mo.  With  illustrations 

$1  25 

STRENGTH  AND  OTHER  PROPERTIES  OF  METALS. 

Reports  of  Experiments  on  the  Strength  and  other  Properties  of 
Metals  for  Cannon.  With  a Description  of  the  Machines  for  Test- 
ing Metals,  and  of  the  Classification  of  Cannon  in  service.  By 
Officers  of  the  Ordnance  Department  U.  S.  Army.  By  authority 
of  the  Secretary  of  War.  Illustrated  by  25  large  steel  plates.  In 
1 vol.  quarto  .......  . $10  00 

HULLIVAN.— PROTECTION  TO  NATIVE  INDUSTRY. 

^ By  Sir  Edward  Sullivan,  Baronet.  (1870.)  8vo.  . $1  50 

rpABLES  SHOWING  THE  WEIGHT  OF  ROUND,  SQUARE,  AND 
1 FLAT  BAR  IRON,  STEEL,  ETC. 

By  Measurement.  Cloth  ......  63 

rpAYLOR. — STATISTICS  OF  COAL: 

**"  Including  Mineral  Bituminous  Substances  employed  in  Arts  and 
Manufactures  ; with  their  Geographical,  Geological,  and  Commer- 
cial Distribution  and  amount  of  Production  and  Consumption  on 
the  American  Continent.  With  Incidental  Statistics  of  the  Iron 
Manufacture.  By  R.  C.  Taylor.  Second  edition,  revised  by  S. 
S.  Haldeman.  Illustrated  by  five  Maps  and  many  wood  engrav- 
ings. 8vo.,  cloth  . . . . . . . . $6  00 

rpEMPLETON. — THE  PRACTICAL  EXAMINATOR  ON  STEAM 
1 AND  THE  STEAM-ENGINE  : 

With  Instructive  References  relative  thereto,  for  the  Use  of  Engi- 
neers, Students,  and  others.  By  Wm.  Templeton,  Engineer  12mo. 

$1  25 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


23 


T 


fTiHOMAS. — THE  MODERN  PRACTICE  OF  PHOTOGRAPHY. 

*®*  By  R.  W.  Thomas,  F.  C.  S.  8vo.,  cloth  ....  75 

fPHOMSON.— FREIGHT  CHARGES  CALCULATOR. 

By  Andrew  Thomson,  Freight  Agent  . . . . $1  25 

•BURNING : SPECIMENS  OF  FANCY  TURNING  EXECUTED  ON 
THE  HAND  OR  FOOT  LATHE : 

With  Geometric,  Oval,  and  Eccentric  Chucks,  and  Elliptical  Cut- 
ting Frame.  By  an  Amateur.  Illustrated  by  30  exquisite  Pho- 
tographs. 4to.  ........  $3  00 

URNER’S  (THE)  COMPANION: 

Containing  Instructions  in  Concentric,  Elliptic,  and  Eccentric 
Turning;  also  various  Plates  of  Chucks,  Tools,  and  Instru- 
ments ; and  Directions  for  using  the  Eccentric  Cutter,  Drill, 
Vertical  Cutter,  and  Circular  Rest;  with  Patterns  and  Instruc- 
tions for  working  them.  A new  edition  in  1 vol.  12mo.  $1  50 

TTRBIN  — BRULL.  — A PRACTICAL  GUIDE  FOR  PUDDLING 
U IRON  AND  STEEL. 

By  Ed.  Urbin,  Engineer  of  Arts  and  Manufactures.  A Prize 
Essay  read  before  the  Association  of  Engineers,  Graduate  of  the 
School  of  Mines,  of  Liege,  Belgium,  at  the  Meeting  of  1865-6. 
To  which  is  added  a Comparison  of  the  Resisting  Properties 
of  Iron  and  Steel.  By  A.  Brull.  Translated  from  the  French 
by  A.  A.  Fesquet,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  In  one  volume,  8vo. 

$1  00 

TTOGDES.— THE  ARCHITECT’S  AND  BUILDER’S  POCKET  COM- 
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By  F.  W.  Vogdes,  Architect.  Illustrated.  Full  bound  in  pocket- 

book  form $2  00 

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WARN.— THE  SHEET  METAL  WORKER’S  INSTRUCTOR,  FOR 
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ERS, &c. 

By  Reuben  Henry  Warn,  Practical  Tin  Plate  Worker.  Iilus- 
trated  by  32  plates  and  37  wood  engravings.  8vo.  . . $3  CO 

ATSON. — A MANUAL  OF  THE  HAND-LATHE. 

By  Egbert  P.  Watson,  Late  of  the  “ Scientific  American,”  Au- 
thor of  “Modern  Practice  of  American  Machinists  and  Engi- 
neers,” In  one  volume,  12mo.  . . . . . $1  50 


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HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD’S  CATALOGUE. 


WATSON.— THE  MODERN  PRACTICE  OF  AMERICAN  MA- 
VV  CHINISTS  AND  ENGINEERS! 

Including  the  Construction,  Application,  and  Use  of  Drills,  Lathe 
Tools,  Cutters  for  Boring  Cylinders,  and  Hollow  "Work  Generally, 
■with  the  most  Economical  Speed  of  the  same,  the  Results  verified 
by  Actual  Practice  at  the  Lathe,  the  Vice,  and  on  the  Floor. 
Together  with  Workshop  management,  Economy  of  Manufacture, 
the  Steam-Engine,  Boilers,  Gears,  Belting,  etc.  etc.  By  Egbert 
P.  Watson,  late  of  the  “Scientific  American.”  Illustrated  by 

eighty-six  engravings.  12mo. $2  50 

WATSON.— THE  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF  THE  ART  OF 
VV  WEAVING  BY  HAND  AND  POWER: 

With  Calculations  and  Tables  for  the  use  of  those  connected  with 
the  Trade.  By  John  Watson,  Manufacturer  and  Practical  Machine 
Maker.  Illustrated  by  large  drawings  of  the  best  Power-Looms. 
8vo. $10  00 

WEATHERLY.— TREATISE  ON  .THE  ART  OF  BOILING  STT- 
VV  GAR,  CRYSTALLIZING,  LOZENGE-MAKING,  COMFITS, 
GUM  GOODS, 


And  other  processes  for  Confectionery,  &c.  In  which  are  ex- 
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of  Manufacturing  every  description  of  Raw  and  Refined  Sugar 
Goods,  as  sold  by  Confectioners  and  others  . . . $2  00 

WILL.— TABLES  FOR  QUALITATIVE  CHEMICAL  ANALYSIS. 

By  Prof.  Heinrich  Will,  of  Giessen,  Germany.  Seventh  edi- 
tion. Translated  by  Charles  F.  Himes,  Ph.  D.,  Professor  of 
Natural  Science,  Dickinson  College,  Carlisle,  Pa.  . . $1  25 


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XLLXAMS. — ON  HEAT  AND  STEAM : 

Embracing  New  Views  of  Vaporization,  Condensation,  and  Expan- 
sion. By  Charles  Wye  Williams,  A.  I.  C.  E.  Illustrated.  8vo. 


$3  50 


WORSSAM.— ON  MECHANICAL  SAWS: 

f From  the  Transactions  of  the  Society  of  Engineers,  1867.  By 
S.  W.  Worssam,  Jr.  Illustrated  by  18  large  folding  plates.  8vo. 

$5  00 


WOHLER.— A HAND-BOOK  OF  MINERAL  ANALYSIS. 

* ^ By  F.  Wohler.  Edited  by  H.  B.  Nason,  Professor  of  Chemistry, 
Rensselaer  Institute,  Troy,  N.  Y.  With  numerous  Illustrations. 
12mo $3  00 


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